Tom, keep looking for those 150 points.....But let me tell you, you are not going to find them! LOL!

If I make it to Lansing, I will have my truck ready w/o tie straps this time!


Carlos

Yeah... I got your number for the next race, it's 3. as in 3rd in the B main. :jest:

Where are you guy's Racing, in Lansing, and Jackson?
Thanks for the info :)

We've already been to Litchfield and Jackson. Lansing is next on the MARS schedule. If you don't know about mars, It's a 5 race series at 5 different tracks. Each event usually brings 250-300 entries. you can find flyers and rules for all the races HERE (marsracing.com) (http://www.marsracing.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Downloads&file=index&req=viewdownload&cid=1)
If you have any questions, feel free to ask here, or find the MARS thread under the Off-Road and Dirt section.

Only a couple more days before she gets raced again.... I bashed 2 sets of race packs thru it pretty hard and it seemed to hold up great and act nice. I'm ready!

Good luck to all you racer types. :thumbsup:

Has anyone tried the new RPM carriers and bearings yet? Any news?

here is what i have found (i've been busy, so cut me some slack...)

- motors DO run cooler. I have only ran it twice with the "mod" but can tell a difference in motor temp afterwards
- no noticable motor play under load. however, this is only after two runs...

Bill-
at my LHS i compared the RPM hub-carriers to the stock ones, and you can easily tell a difference if beefyness (if thats a word). if they are as strong as their A- arms, then they should be well worth their rather hefty price tag ($33 or so at my LHS).

Smojoe, thanks. I'm not able to run down to the LHS and check these things out so I really am thankful for your input and effort.

Have you long term Emaxx owners found the bearing carriers on the stock truck to be weak?

Good news on the motor spacing idea. Air flow = a good thing.

No, not really. I have only broken 1, and that was on the rear. The ear that the control rod attaches to broke off.

My motor mod seems to have worked well on my truck, but my son smoked a motor in his during the main with the same mod, so now I wonder. It was probably just that motors time to go...... :)

Has anyone else experienced any god-awful clicking coming from their drive train when their E-Maxx is under high torque conditions (accelleration)?

Yes. It usually means a problem with the rear diff. Probably the pinion slipping a tooth on the ring gear. Time for a new ring & pinion. Make sure the pinion is shimmed to make proper contact with the ring gear.

check and make sure your rear lock-nuts are tight. i had a "god-awful" clicking noise once and it was just because the lock- nut had loosened and the hex wheel adaptor was skipping over the hex on the wheel. that, or the diff..

Smo,
In his case (I've seen his truck) it's the diff case splitting open under torque. Mine does the same thing. I've shimmed the input gear so it's closer to the ring gear. I also crammed some spacers between the gear case halfs and the bulkhead to hold the case together. It helps, but there is still some slipping. I have, of course, checked the gears to make sure they are in good shape and they look like new. It's just a crappy design to only have two screws holding the case halfs together. I know that an aluminum diff case will solve the problem. This just proves e-maxxes are money pits. The real disappointment is that we bought these things because they are supposed to be fun and I had hoped they would be low-maintenance. We never play with them, only race, and that's only been 6 race days. There are guys out there with old maxxes that bash with them all the time (on pavement too) and never take care of them and have no problems. We are racing on very low-traction dirt with the stock titan motors which should be easy on them. twisting things because of torque should not be an issue for us. In 6 races (12 practice runs, 15 qualifiers, 6 mains = 33 runs) I've probably hit 5 tubes, 3 other trucks, and been on my roof 2 times. I'm really easy on equipment. I just didn't expect so many problems. It just really sucks that for everything that goes wrong - the answer is throwing more money (aluminum and aftermarket parts) at it.

There all kinds of wierd problems going on.... I've had my maxx for a little over a year and a half, bought it used off E-bay and have not had the diff case separation like Kevin (We race in the same series) but have had different diff problems. I've had Idler gears in the trans explode, he hasn't. His truck is faster than mine, maybe he has 1.18v@30a cells where I only run 1.16s, don't know. I even go out and bash with mine periodically.

Maybe that's the problem Kevin... You don't bash it! :tongue: :lol:

Hey, where'd everybody go?

highschool, homework, and working on my airboat. need a better charger for cheap for my batts so i dont have so much down-time. any suggestions? i have been looking at the superbrain 969 (or whatever the new version is), but the hundred dollar price tag is setting me back. think i could trade my 959 in with some cash to get it? :lol:

Cheap? Look at the Duratrax Pulse charger. Charges up to 6amps has it's own built in power supply and is NiMh compatible. $54.99 at my LHS (Last time I bought one, I have 2). The other option is a GM Powercharger a guy on these boards is selling for like $45 each (you'd have to do a search on the accessories swap board), I bought 2 from him and like them alot. Charge up to 6.5 amps, built in power supply and cooling fan. No LED readouts on either one though.

have any of you looked at American CNC Machining's products before? I was looking at their bulks, which for $25 for front OR rear, seem pretty good looking. sure, their probaby no GA (Great Assembly) bulks, but for $50 bucks for the whole set, it seems worth it.

p.s. ACNCM is http://www.acncm.com and GA is http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/bulks.shtml

Smojoe, the 969 looks great. I'm planning to buy one to replace my broken 959. I like it because it will charge my 6 cell sub-c packs, receiver packs, and the 12 volt battery for my starter box. For the price, it looks great. The only downside is that when charging two batts, it cant do 4.5 volts for both of them (the PS is rated at 5 amps).

What?? No posts in 5 days??? enough of that! Bash session this weekend! Whoopee dooo!

well, i dont really have anything emaxx related to talk about because i have yet to run my truck in about half a month :cry: just dont have time, and whenever i DO have time, my POS "super"brain false peaks after four minutes, even when charging a 3.0 amps. and i dont have any money to send it in/ replace it with something else because all my $$ is goin into my paintball gun or my airboat.

oh, and tom, I never found the guy selling the GM Powerchargers. could you post a link, Im gonna be working this weekend and hopefully $50 or so will find its way into my wallet :thumbsup:

Smojoe, I did some searching and found the guys name that sold them to me, he's on Hobbytalk a "michal", his name is Mike. I sent him an E-mail for info & his "in-stock" status this morning, when I hear back I'll post up so you'll know.

In the meantime, if you want to see what I'm talking about, see here: http://www.gm-racing.com/englisch/hauptseite/index_e.htm Look under Products - chargers - Powercharger.

thanks a ton, tom! :thumbsup: just need some better batts and everything will be excelent. :)


sorry for such a late post. have be occupied by more "educational" things

No problem, unfortunately I have not heard back from him via E-mail. His profile said he last posted on 8/14 (I think) when I checked it, so he does still visit. I know he had a website he was selling them off of but I don't know the URL anymore. I bought mine last December so all that has been forgotten.

I don't know anything about the charger that Tom's is recommending so I can't comment about which is better. But I thought I would add that for the same price the Piranha Digital Peak Charger has been a great charger for me.

Tom I still plan on asking you some questions about gear mods, just have not had the chance to write them down. Soon I hope.

Bye

I have one of those GM chargers and use it a lot. I believe the web site was gmstuff.com but I see that doesn't take us to the right page.

Anyone interested in making a REAL monster truck out of their E Maxx with Clodbuster wheels & tires might be interested in this setup:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=60668

I just got some 40 series Mashers for the rig.... they are significantly bigger than the bowties, but only seem minimally bigger than the Mulchers.... Probably just the large pins on the Mulchers make it look that way. Can't wait to give'em a try! May have to gear down a tooth though.

I have only 8 runs on my stocker, and I think my evx is cutting out. At the beginning of the run it will stop and then start for about 2-3 minutes and then is ok the rest of the run. When I squeeze full trigger, the lite is green, but nothing happens (only steering) Is that my esc thermal??

Not at the beginning of the run. Possibly at the end. Sounds like you have a defective unit.

Every time I have steering but no movement I check my connections and brushes, works for me most of the time. Hope it's a quick fix for ya.

OK, I installed the 40 series mashers & geared down a tooth. Still FAST! but was running out od power at the 4:30 mark... Gotta go 5:30 in racing So I beileve I'll have to go down another tooth to make run time. The Mashers are cool though!

they have 40 series MASHERS now?!?! i thought they only had the big joes and roadrage. geeze, has it really been that long since my last trip to the hobby shop......

anyways, i have officially "shelfed" my maxx because i am currently putting all avalible money into my paintball gun. but if anyone wants to donate some money or a charger to the "help a kid run his maxx" fund, it would be more then appreciated. :D

Paintball... Another money sucking hobby!

Yes they have 40 Series Mashers and another style like the dirt hawg, but i cant remember the name of them.

Paintball... Another money sucking hobby!
.


True, true....

My emaxx is also shelved right now, but because my transmitter is acting up. I'm just gonna buy an fm rx and use my hitec radio instead of the tq3

So what do you have in mind for your tl+, smojoe? Did you get that hpa tank yet?
If you haven't allready, check out pbreview.com. It is probably the most helpful site around. I dont use the forums, but you can find some of my reviews on there under shutter_guy.

in a sad attempt to keep this R/C related...
currently running HPA (nitrogen), dye ultralite, rico ak, and will have a spudnuk'l bolt and 32* valve on soon

oh, and went through the most recent RCCA mag and saw the mashers and dirt hawgs (i think). geeze, just another thing to my list of stuff i want for my maxx.....

cool....
Those tires do look pretty cool, especially the 40 series mashers, but A. no money for that kind of thing and B. I was snapping driveshafts with the terra crusher tires, so I dont plan on getting any more big tires.

I hope I can get the smaller pinoins for my truck before this weekend, last big race for the season! The LHS says they should be in Wednesday.

Anyone tried the two novak rooster setup yet? If so, how do you mount them? And do they work better? :cool:

I personally wouldn't think that would be better. The motor limit on the evx is 19t, I think, and the dual roosters would be 15. It would be expensive and complex for a relatively small speed gain.

Paintball... Another money sucking hobby!
.
Do you play?
Ahh! :mad: my maxx is still down. This is kind of irritating

most people who use dual roosters (from my experiance) also run aftermarket chassis that hold more cells. they use the roosters because they can handle 10 cells each, making 20 cells for the truck, vs. the EVX total of only 14. if you running the stock chassis or an aftermarket chassis that only supports the use of 14 cells, i dont see the point of upgrading. however, if you do have a chassis that supports more cells, and are to cheap to go brushless, then there should be a performance increase.

as for mounting them, you could mount on in front, one in back, and then mount the RX to the shocktower, or foam tape them back to back then mount them. however, it would be more stable to make an upsidedown T bracket and mount them to the sides of the T.

I also saw an artical where a guy took out the shift servo, locked the truck into second gear with a piece of fuel tubing, and put a rooster where the evx was and another where the shift servo was

I don't play Paintball, but know people who do.

The dual rooster thing allows you to run 2 regular motors with 7.2v to each motor instead of 14.4 with the EVX. I believe there is just more motor maintenance with the rooster set up.

you would think there would be more maintenance. using non- bulletproof motors on 7.4+ volts while trying to accelerate a 10+ lbs truck. geeze, and i thought i was tough on my 12 turn.. (which, ironicly, isnt working at the moment)

speaking of bullet proof motors, about how long will the titan 550's last? I have over a year on mine and they seem pretty good still.

I've had 2 E-Maxxes for over a year, I've seen 3 Titians go up in smoke between the 2 of them and one was because one motor backed away from the spur so the whole truck was running on that 1 motor. I guess it was just their time for the other two. Other than that the performance doesn't seem to suffer although the Run time gets shorter with age.

Thanks for the info guys, I've already orderd them so I'm going to use the idea of one in the front, and one in the back. And move my reciever to the shock tower. I've got a JR system in it so that wont look all that bad. Thanks again. :thumbsup: :cool:

Its funny you guys should mention paintballing, because I got a kid across the street from me into r/c cars and now he's trying to get me into paintballing. But I dont know because growing up on Detroits east side I had to duck a lot worst than paint balls. :eek: :lol:

Then it should come naturally to you lol.
I think I may just get a new pair of motors. The last time I ran my maxx, it was working well and all of a sudden the power decreased. I thought the batteries were dying, but it ran slowly for quite a while. It almost seemed like one motor lost a pinion gear or fried, because as slow as it was it wasn't slowing down even more like it does when the battery dumps.