true... true...

anyway, i decided to go for the bombproof "torpedo" chassis instead of the gorillamaxx. main reason for this was because of the gorillamaxx's price jump from $150 to $250 (give or take). that, and the torpedo is proven to take the abuse of twin brushless (something i hope to have, even if it takes me a few years).

Yeah I was a little pissed off when I snapped the four screws that hold the gear housing together in the rear end. No more 7-cells for me. Plus, after I cleaned the motors up real good, and oiled them, the truck is pretty fast again stock. :thumbsup:

Torpedo chassis? who makes that & can I see it on the web?

Torpedo chassis? who makes that & can I see it on the web?

yeah, its made by "bomb-proof products"
heres their site: http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/

go into the picture gallery and download the movie of the guy smacking it with a hammer. looks tough to me! :devil:

If it didn't extend the chassis so much it would be interesting to me, But I don't like the extended chassis.

yeah, thats what turned me off at first from buying it. but then i saw the price, and how much every other chassis that was similar cost, and that changed my mind. also, they have the racebomb chassis, which doesnt extend the maxx that much (half an inch, i think). the owner of the company has twin hackers on it, so its gotta be tough too!

Hey Tom, I'm going to canton this weekend with my e-maxx and my TC3. I'm going to see if I can get a class of e-maxxes going. Come on out if you get a chance. And anyone else who lives in the area. :thumbsup:

I'll be in Saginaw at Sand Hill this weekend, gonna check out their dirt track.

got some RPM arms for my maxx today. all i can say is wow! geeze, those things are beefy! only have them in the front right now, and it makes the stock 2.5 arms look like twigs. needless to say, i will be going back to the LHS soon to pick up some rears (got more money for my birthday). i also picked up some trinity "heavy" springs (the blue ones). i only one pack of four, and now i can take almost all the preload spacers off of the shocks.
also, i will only be spending about 200 on my paintball gun, so hopefully that bomb-proof chassis will be arriving to my house earlier! :thumbsup:

Wow, no activity in a little while........

Me, & My Wife's Trucks:
http://cwhobbies.com/photogallery/photo1044/DSC01119.jpg

My Truck with dual Novak's:
http://www.cwhobbies.com/RC/DSC01214.jpg

Interesting shot...... Yours is the Blue one isn't it!

Be careful, you may end up with Mini-Maxxes! :lol:

Actually mine's the Silver one, she must like it on top :lol:

Oh..... :cool: :thumbsup:

how does the truck handle with twin novaks? by looking at the pic, it looks like you still have the stock sliders. are those (or the tranny, for that matter) giving you any problems?

The only problems i've had are the rear drive shaft, it keeps twisting them from the torque :(

Also, i put 18 cells in it :D
Alot more power!! I know their only rated for 14, but i thought i'd try it.
Their running good so far, i been keeping a close eye on them.

What about speed?
Your pretty lucky if only one of the driveshafts is giving you problems. I've got the stock motors on my maxx, but with larger tires (I used to have tamiya terra crusher tires on it) I was snapping driveshafts left and right.

I hope you guys can help me.

I have 2 Magnetic Mayhem motors - 22 turn that I would like to put in my E-Maxx. What gearing should I use with the stock speed control?

Thank you very much for your help!!

Time to lift it from the bottom....

Sorry Motoman, I never run anything but the stockers so I have no idea about gearing other motors. I guess no one else on this thread does either.

I'd try 14/68 and check how hot it (ESC) gets after about 2 min run time. The mayhems have more RPMs than stock, but I understand the comms should be cut fairly frequently because of the higher voltage.

Everything has a price....more power = more parts. :D

Just curious as to if anyone has seen up close or even tried one of the new Mtronics ESCs designed for the Maxx truck? Supposed to be waterproof which would be WONDERFUL as a couple guys have found in our area. :)

Nope. But waterproof?? thatwould make the E-maxx in the snow real fun!!

Yes it would and it would sure save on a lot of problems with people that find a puddle unexpectedly also.

UHHHhhh,,...yeah.....huh....huh! I learned acouple of things from that little lesson. I drilled some small holes in the chassis to let the water get out. Also, if it happens again I'll still pull the power plugs immediately, but I'll also take time to remove the EVX, open it up and completely dry it out before I put power to it and try it.
I also learned that Traxxas service is very good... they replaced my EVX with about a 3 week turnaround. Pretty hard to beat if you ask me.
Wanna play around the water? Get a boat! :rolleyes:

Just curious as to if anyone has seen up close or even tried one of the new Mtronics ESCs designed for the Maxx truck? Supposed to be waterproof which would be WONDERFUL as a couple guys have found in our area. :)
When i first saw this ESC I wasn't able to get much info on it, but since then I found these specs:

Mtroniks Super E-Truck
2 motor, 2 battery
forward, brake & reverse
single motor limit: none
twin motor limit: series wired: none
twin motor limit: parallel wired, 2x15T
# of cells: 5-12
weight: 50gm (no wires)
size: L 68.0 x W 34.0 x H 15.0mm
freq: 2.5Khz
voltage drop:@ 10A, 0.0068V
continuous current:250A
peak current: 510A

It also has brake light circuitry, and yes...."Totally Waterproof"
:eek:

I found all those specs, but the only US distributor they listed only advertises the low end sport for $30. I want to know how I could get one if I want and what it would cost in US $$, not british pounds.

Hi Tom,

Here is some info and $$ on their line of ESC's.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/prdcls/caascfr01.asp

Thanks Bill! That's what I wanted to know. I think maybe if I blow out an ESC I might go that direction. I'll have to see. I have the 2 EVXs that are in the trucks and a back-up.

Tom, I think the only place I've seen them is at Hobby People and they are like $140 if I remember correctly.

Haha, guess we were posting at the same time. :)

Saved from 8 days of inactivity!!

What is the most extreme Mod Motors anyone has put in with great results, besides Brushless or MAXX Milds, Wilds. I am looking at 2 10T Trinity Flatliners.

I only run the stock units, thats all that is allowed for racing where I am. And they are fast enough with TONS of torque, I really don't see the point in the motor swap, the aftermarket motors require way too much maintenance in the MAXX after feeding them 14.4v all the time.

I know that the stock Titans are powerful for most, but to get ballastic power for about 3 minutes is all I need for now. Just toying with it.

Kristen, why not a brushless?

I agree with Bill. You need to hop-up the drive train in order for it to stand up to “ballistic” power, anyway. Why not just go the whole nine yards and go brushless? Plus, you will be looking at run times far better then three minutes.

I have done all the beefing up already. I ran 2 Novak Super Sports in it, but for pulling and drag racing it through a rock climb and dirt straight away, brushless isnt allowed at this event. Because the winner will be the guy / gal with the most cash in there truck.

well, that rules brushless out...
how much money are you willing to spend? because you cant go brushless, you could use the following set up (though it might not be well suited for the rock climbing part)

-bomb proof torpedo chassis (lots -o- cells and is, well, bomb proof)
-twin novak super roosters (can handle the cells and low turn motors)
-twin trinity D5 flatliners (dunno what turn would be best, but maybe 8 or 9)
-GP 3300 cells (nice and powerful. good run times,too)

like i said, this isnt going to be cheap. just the stuff i named will run you around $500.

Oh, I am well aware of the costs of these items. I was thinking about 8T Flatliners myself, just wondering if anyone has them installed.

well, that rules brushless out...
how much money are you willing to spend? because you cant go brushless, you could use the following set up (though it might not be well suited for the rock climbing part)

-bomb proof torpedo chassis (lots -o- cells and is, well, bomb proof)
-twin novak super roosters (can handle the cells and low turn motors)
-twin trinity D5 flatliners (dunno what turn would be best, but maybe 8 or 9)
-GP 3300 cells (nice and powerful. good run times,too)

like i said, this isnt going to be cheap. just the stuff i named will run you around $500.

Good list Smoejoe, But you forgot the 1/8th scale diff conversion, steel Idler gears for the tranny, and CVD's all around! :lol:

If money was no object, I'd go with all of it! :eek:

Anyone modified their tranny? I just did. I'm trying a custom mod by taking out 1st gear all together, Idler & main gear. I attached the drive "yoke" that slides back & forth to the 2nd speed main gear with 2 bolts and super glue. Now the only slop in the transmission is gear lash. I took out the shift fork, shaft it rides on and Shoe Gooed over the holes, custom fabricated a filler where the old 1st gear main gear was so the shaft doesn't slide back & forth. Now I'm strictly 2nd gear and have instant response in acceleration & braking.

I am also thinking of another modification that I noticed could be a problem. The Motor plate. I took my motors out to clean them up and ya know what I discovered? Dirt. Lots of dirt right at the end of the motor where it mounts to the motor plate. They advertise these Titan motors as Fan Cooled, you can see the fan at the end bell, and if it blows the air down past the armature to cool it, where is that air going to go? The motor plate blocks the vent holes at the end. I saw evidence that the air is circulating along with the dust and the dust seems to stick & gather at the vent holes that are blocked, hence the dirt. My plan would be to drill a couple extra holes in the motor plate that would correspond with the vents in the can of the motor so the air (and dust) could pass thru. Hopefully making a cleaner and cooler motor. The other option is a spacer between the motor and the motor plate that would allow the air to flow out, but that takes more ingenuity than I have time for.

Opinions?

Tom you said....The other option is a spacer between the motor and the motor plate that would allow the air to flow out, but that takes more ingenuity than I have time for.

Maybe you do.

I was looking at the same problem and was thinking of using washers between the motor and motor plate. Just had not had a chance to see if the pinion gear could be adjusted to fit the spur/pinion mesh correctly.

The vent holes would work as well so I guess it depends on which is easier.

looking at my maxx, there seems to be about 1/4 of an inch of space to move the pinion out to. I too noticed that there was no place for air circulation. there is no place for air to travel into the motor, and the rotors of the fan just push air out. great idea tom! :thumbsup: im going outside now to see what i can do....

Done! here are my findings:
- there is a larger volume of air that is pushed out by the fans (which means more air traveling through motor)
- the stock motor mount screws are a little short, but still work. next time i go to my local hardware store, i will be picking up some longer ones (which means i can insert more washers, too)
- the pinions still mesh well (still room on the shaft)

each washer was about 1/16 of an inch wide. i mounted two per screw, or four for each motor. i have yet to run it (batts are almost dead and i have to go mow my lawn), but so far, all is well.

Great work Smojoe, your quick.

Do me a favor and watch the wear pattern on the pinion and spur, if any. I'm concerned that now that the motor is not "seated" to the plate there will be some play or flexing while under load.

Thanks

Aahh! Thanks for the quick info Smoejoe! now I gotta get to work. Bill is on the track I was thinking of, if you just use washers at the screw holes it seems like there would be a possibility of motor "Wobble" if driven hard. I started thinking of the washer idea after my post, but on a larger scale. What about a big 'ol fender washer? Ya know, one the size of the can itself with a hole in the center big enough for the nub that the bushing rests in can slip thru. then it could be dremeled out into kind of a star pattern so there is support at different areas around the can but still room for the air to flow thru. Sounds like a plan to me, worth a 40 cent investment at Home Depot to give it a try. Just take a motor in to check size and then Dremel away!

Sometimes I suprise myself........... :tongue:

I did notice just a nick of play when installing the washers. Grabbing hold of the motor and pushing it up and down verified that. It does not seem like much, but that is just by using my hand, not by using 14.4 volts on a high torque motor. Oh well, that is why I bought a Kimbrough (sp?) spur gear. I will keep you guys updated! :thumbsup:

Gotta love team work :thumbsup:

Tom. I can't remember if I mentioned it to you at Jackson or not. I had already removed all the first gear stuff from the tranny. I superglued the floater to the 2nd gear but did not screw them together. I added some thick foam washers (like 1/4inch thick body foams) to the shaft to keep the floater pressed towards the gear if the glue was to break free. This provided instant response at take-off. I ran it like that at Jackson with no problems.

Yeah you told me about that's what got me thinking about it. I tore the trans down just to check things out and got to looking at it, and did some comparing. Saw where I could run a couple 4-40 bolts thru by drilling only 2 holes in the main gear (none in the floater) so they would make like a stop and have no play between the 2 gears. I didn't want to trust just glue! The bolts are exactly opposite each other so the balance of the gear was not upset in any way, and then a few drops of CA around the circumference where the gears touch for good measure. I drilled the hole a little small so I actually had to thread the bolt thru and then put a lock nut on the other end, seems pretty rugged and stout. I'm gonna get a couple washers and dremel away at them, install them and give it a run this weekend to see how it acts.

Got new batteries, all cleaned up and some small modifications, should be ready to go.... Looking for the 150 points in Lansing!! :lol: