Does moving the clips result in about 5 degrees of caster adjustment one way or another then? I'd assume that the rear would adjust antisquat then correct? Nice new features for this monster.

caster adjustments:
two shims in the front is 4 degrees
one shim on each side (one front, one rear) is 7 degrees
two shims in the rear is 10 degrees

Cool, thanks for the info. Anything in the book about the rear however? Seems like it would work about the same back there, only adjusting antisquat instead?

yeah, seems like it. more than likely goes in the same three degree intervals as the front, too (-3, 0, 3).

bummer, JB. so did you make it to RCX anyway? i couldnt go (school). oh well, hopefully its an anuall (sp?) event, so i can go next year..

Yeah I made it to rcx. Simply awsome. They had an oval track set up with a skateboard roll in launching a nitro truck a good 15 or so feet in the air. In an odd twist, the truck actually collided with an airplane flying overhead.
They also had a dirt track set up. They were running various trucks and buggies on it. They had some small jumps and two massive jumps. The guys from kyosho were great; they had three mp7.5's on the track landing backflips off the big jumps.

Servo?

Have you guys up graded your steering servo. If so what have you found works well. How strong should I go?

Thanks

I have a HiTec 945 in mine and a Futaba 9402 in the Kids truck.

A s trong as you can afford. I went with a Hitec 5945MG Digital Metal gear servo. 181 oz. at 0.13 second. $90.00 at rcmodels.com (http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?rc-models+g4UTjJ+index.html)

Thank you guys,

http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/index.html

Has the Hitec's listed at $89.95 for the 5945 and $73.95 for the 945. With free shipping :thumbsup:

What is ment by "coreless standard"?

Coreless is the type of motor used... it is stronger and smoother then a "normal" motor. I am assuming by Standard they are talking the size of the servo... most RC cars (and the E-Maxx) use what is sometimes called the "standard" size.

Thanks Hank for the information.

Need one more question answered. Would you link me to the info on becoming a Hobby Talk member or post the address here. I'm sorry for not having done this sooner. Supporting your site is money well spent.

Thanks
Bill

PS - I found it, checks in the mail, well it will be tomorrow. :lol:

Glad top help and thanks for the support. It helps keep the site running!

Thank you guys,

http://www.servocity.com/ServoCity/index.html

Has the Hitec's listed at $89.95 for the 5945 and $73.95 for the 945. With free shipping :thumbsup:

What is ment by "coreless standard"?

We'd rather see you shop at www.rcmodels.com and www.eHobbies.com since we're a sponsor here. We'll match any competitors pricing. Just mention HobbyTalk forums in the comments section during checkout.

Kevin

Thanks for the tip, I'll still support the LHS!

Thanks for the tip, I'll still support the LHS!

That's great. If you live in Southern California, please support our local hobby shop http://www.ehobbies.com/info.html#business

Kevin
eHobbies - a proud member of NRHSA
National Retail Hobby Shop Association

Hope you didn't take that as a slam on Mail order... You guys are a necessity, some people are not as lucky as I am to have 5 hobby shops within 30 minutes & 3 of them have indoor tracks (1 carpet, 1 dirt, & 1 with both!)

We'll match any competitors pricing. Just mention HobbyTalk forums in the comments section during checkout.

Kevin

Is thta any mail order competitor, or any LHS competator??? :confused:

hey, i've been having a problem with my e-maxx i bought one when they first came out and i already went through three sets of motors
i never messed with the gearing or anything but i did change it over to
2wd is there something wrong with the stock motors or what
help me out this thing gets expensive
thanks,
jake

I've kept mine 4wd and have not gone thru that many motors. Motors do burn out without notice at times, how much do you run yours?

Greg, what are you doing on a e-maxx site? Well I guess you could put some big joes on your TC3. :lol: :lol:

I should be asking you the same thing there "Special-K"

well usually i would run about six sets of packs through it during the weekend and yes i do abuse it but its a e-maxx its made to take pain
thanks,
jake

im just guessing, but using only 2wd puts more stress on the motors because your acclerating a 10+lbs. truck that was designed for 4wd. sure, half the time i'm running my maxx, the two front wheels are off the ground, but when accelerating in 2nd, they arent, which means that all four wheels are making the truck go forward. this is why on other cars motors and speedos heat up, because your geared to high. but instead of gearing, your lugging down the drive wheels.

just a SWAG answer. feel free to bash it or correct me.

Actually I don't think it's harder on the motors, just the drive train.

What's hard on the motors is serious bashing if you run it in tall grass, or very dusty conditions it will cause them to wear out prematurely. Plus bashers tend to be heavy on the throttle and do alot of "R-D's" (Reverse-drive) to do wheelies & throw dirt which can adversely effect the longevity of the motors.

Hope that helped explain a little

yes, running 2wd is harder on the drivetrain. no doubt about that!
the 2wd thing might be the problem, but your hypothesis seems more correct. oh well, i tried to help.... and i got some more posts, too!

lol... trust me, 2wd is much harder on the drivetrain. I broke two more driveshafts this weekend. First the front, then the rear. I blame that on my terra crusher tires....
i want cvd's so bad, but they dont fit in my budget. oh well......

Catch 22 there... If you buy the CVD's you won't buy them anymore, if you stick with the plastic sliders they break and you buy more. Eventually you end up spending the same amount of money. 1 way is cheaper up front but causes more wrenching, the other way costs more at first but makes for less wrenching & more reliability.

Is thta any mail order competitor, or any LHS competator??? :confused:

any mail order or LHS, as long as long as we and they have the same item in stock. Hope that clears up your confusion ;)

Hey Tom, I found out how to keep those pins in our cvd's, if you have'nt found out yet. Dynamite sells a cvd shaft boot ,part# DYN7687. After you put threadlock on the set screw's, slide the boot's on around the pin's and the output shaft and dont worry about them anymore. :thumbsup:

I use shrink tube. you find some large diameter QUALITY shrink tube, cut about 1/4 of an inch off (more or less), stretch it out with some pliers, slip it on, and heat it up. been working fine for me for a while, and best of all, my dad pays for the shrink tube!

Last time I was at Larry's I picked up some of the large shrink tube for it. Now I just gotta get another drive cup and re-install it.

Hi Guys,

We fried the slipper and spur. Is there a club we can join now! :lol:

My question is can I use 12 friction pegs without any problems. It seems to me that using 12 instead of 6 would help it hold better. We have done this on the Epede without any problems.

What do you all think?

Thanks
Bill

sure, not a problem 12 can be better than 6.

Thanks Tom. I was thinking of bad joke but I think it's best I let that pass.

Anyone know the weight of a stock e-maxx?

8 lbs. and change, I think.

I was thinking the same when I posted that Bill....

What do you need to know that for Lollie? you got some fancy mathmatics to apply before the next MARS? some kind of Weight x speed = inertia / torque + RPM x angle of ascent = distance in flight?? :tongue: :D

Thanks Tom :lol:

What do you need to know that for Lollie? you got some fancy mathmatics to apply before the next MARS? some kind of Weight x speed = inertia / torque + RPM x angle of ascent = distance in flight?? :tongue: :D

You will find out in Jackson. :D

OK, I'll be a waitin'!!

I put it on a scale today and it was 11 lbs

Oops! sounds like Bill was a little light!

Was that with batteries?

Does anyone know if running two 19-turn motors (trinity) hurt your evx? Because I just ran them, and it was FAST :eek: :eek: . But it smelled a little funny. :confused:

Does anyone know if running two 19-turn motors (trinity) hurt your evx? Because I just ran them, and it was FAST . But it smelled a little funny.

any motor other then the stock titians will need consistand rebuilding and work in order to keep them in good condition. the smell was probably the comm and brushes, which are burnt up. remember, the EVX sends out 14.4+ volts out, where a normal motor is only made to run 8.4 or a little over. even if they are the monster maxx (?) motors that are "made" for the emaxx, they will still need rebuilding often. only motor that I have heard that will take the abuse of the 14.4 volt system and come back for more, other then the titans, are the magnetic mayhems by kyosho (sp?). and even those need maintnance every few runs. every motor will make the maxx seem faster, untill it starts throwing winds or burnin' comms..

p.s. its amazing what you can learn from maxxtraxx :tongue:

You can run regular motors with a dual ESC set up, 1 battery & ESC per motor, but then you loose some of the oomph that the 14.4 gives you.

I'd love to try the Brushless system in mine, but then it wouldn't be race legal. And beyond that, I don't have the money!

just had quite a scare..
i was running my maxx and noticed that it was no longer pulling wheelies on the concret (sp?) like it normally does. so i walk over to it, give it a slight pull of the trigger, and hear a "rat... tat... tat" sound coming from the rear. right then, i was like "aww crud, blew the diff." having planned out $300 to go into my paintball gun, i did not really want to replace the stock diffs (even though they arent that expensive). i took it inside, and start taking off the rear tires. i had the right off, and was going to to the left. at that moment, i noticed what was making the sound. it was the plasic hex adapter going "tat...tat..tat" on the inside of the wheel. the night before, i was thinking about taking apart the diff, but decided not to. however, i had just hand tightened the left lock nut, so it had gradually loosened enough for the wheel to slip. none the less, i was happy, and learned a lesson to always check things like that before i run.

just felt like posting something about me being dumb

Thanks for the info Smojoe, and Tom. I was just bored and on vacation and tried something new. But today I put the titans back in after a good cleaning. And its back to the toolbox for the 19-turns ontil the CRL starts back up this fall.And dont feel bad Smojoe I did the same thing. Thank God you have to take the wheels off to get to the diff. :) :thumbsup:

Don't know about that, Ive popped the diff out with only removing 14 screws and no tires before. But I did take the tires off for re-assembly!

i take those big lugs off whenever i work on the truck. its had to work on with these huge things gettin in the way. i just find it easier to take them off...

Yes it is much eaiser, but when you're kinda P.O.'d and just want to get to it......