The arms are deinately different. I believe that the old emaxx with the Proline suspension is just a hair wider. I know that the newer Emaxx comes with a new 14.4V EVX ESC. The older version came with a very troublesome 12V ESC, Traxxas did do a replacement. All of the troubles I have heard of have been with the ESC. If you cut of the Tamiya style plugs it will void any warranty. I believe one other difference is in the shock mounting for different ride heights and suspension travel. Lower and wider = more stable (less roll).

One thing to watch out for on older used and/or abused Emaxx is twisted drive shafts, they all twist sooner or later (sooner if they have mod motors). A used newer WideMaxx would be your best bet IMHO.

Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some racin'!

me too hank i got mine on saturday,cant wait to crank here up and let her rip................finally!!!!!!!!!!!

Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some racin'!

Wouldn't this be more accurate??......"Woohoo... got my E-Maxx today... gettin' ready to do some chasin'!"
:lol: :lol:

Maybe in YOUR dreams!!!!

I'm about to become apart of a Emaxx pit crew. Should be ordering one soon for my son.

I'm looking forward to talking with all of you. Anything I should know before I order it? I need to finish reading this thread, got to page 5 this morning, before I start asking questions.

Talk to you soon.

Bill

I have been considering getting an e-maxx so I can fairly run with a couple friends of mine who have t-maxx's(the evader is still fun!). But I anyway I am REALLY torn between what batteries i should get for it. Here is what I have narrowed it down to. Any input is welcome(I will be using stock engines/esc).

6-cell nicd 2400 ballistic batteries(sanyo cells), 2 for $60
http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/Store_Detail.cfm?PartNo=2424PR&InfoID=200&ShowLarge=True

Racers Edge 6-cell nimh 3000, 4 for $100
http://stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RCESP3000B&showbig=6809

Voltage enhanced GP3300 7 cell UNMATCHED, 2 for $80(are these nimh?)
http://www.promatchracing.com/miscbatts.htm

I know the 7-cell batteries provide more juice, but is it worth the extra money and stress on the e-maxx, or should I re-gear instead for a little more speed(and stick with 6-cell)? I am really considering the racers edge deal, but don't know if those are good batteries or not. thanks

I don't know about the new wide emaxx, but I believe the EVX speed control is designed to run on 12 cells. I've seen people run 14 cells, but I wouldn't chance it.

Yes you can run 2 7 cell packs for the most top speed.

Please check out Dr. Doug's E-Maxx Page (http://home.att.net/~dgelowitz/emaxx_faq/) for answers to most if not all of your E-Maxx questions.

I am in no way affiliated with this page, just well informed by it. Helped me out a bunch. :D

Any opinions on those 3 batteries I listed? Or if there are better ones I don't know about.

Thanks for the link. I ran across that website and it helped answer some of my questions, and now its just down to what batteries I should order for it.(I don't want to order crappy batteries for my $300 emaxx)

The ProMatch Racing packs should be pretty good. I think you can find someone selling them on the Swap and Sell area at good prices.

Please check out Dr. Doug's E-Maxx Page (http://home.att.net/~dgelowitz/emaxx_faq/) for answers to most if not all of your E-Maxx questions.

Thanks Silver, Just what the doctor ordered.

Bill

any opinions on the Peak Performance Power Max Pro 3000's? two for $62.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTV8&P=K

It seems the voltage enhanced GP3300 7 cell UNMATCHED batteries are geared towards racing. They are recommended to be charged at 5-6A(I think) The charger I am getting is the twin pulse but it only charges at 3.5A Since I would only charge them at that rate they should provide me pretty long runtimes(more then 10min) since they are 3300's, right? Or do these cells put out their juice faster then a normal cell since they are meant for racing, thus giving me less run time?

Speedo seems to be working fine,truck wont move.motors wired correctly,everything hood up right when i move the center shafts they only go so far then stop ? If i force them with pliers the gears sound crunchy ? Any body experiance this ?

Speedo seems to be working fine,truck wont move.motors wired correctly,everything hood up right when i move the center shafts they only go so far then stop ? If i force them with pliers the gears sound crunchy ? Any body experiance this ?

have yet to experiance that, but im going to try and help..
first, take off your pinions (helps a lot) next, try and roll the maxx back and forth across the ground. if it rolls pretty easy, then turn on the truck and see it the motors will spin. if they dont spin, its something electronic (more then likely the ESC). if it does not roll easily (for a monster truck at least) then take off the center drive axels. move the front section (diff), see if it binds, check the rear section (diff) see it that binds, then if both of those work good, it is, more then likely, the tranny. if it binds, then take it apart and see whats the matter with it. if it spins freely, then use whatever someone else posts, because im out of ideas.
this may seem time consuming, but its better then not running the truck at all.

well she spins freely ,both motors spin freely when away from the spurnow here's the kicker when i put the left motor with pinion against the spur and spin it she spins now i put both motors against the sopur with pinions and it wont spin over ?????? weird huh ? any body got any idea's ? Are both motors suppost to be soinning in the same direction ?
HANKSTER ANY IDEA"S HERE BUDDY ? I feel like a fool being a 14 yr racer and now i want to play a little and i cant get this thing goin ?

My first guess is that if the gears feel/sounds "crunchy" then they most likely are crunched. Both motors spin in the same direction.

yeah one of the motors was spinning the wrong way,took her out and road tested her yesterday,pretty cool ........im using 16 pinions can i go up to 18's ??????

The pinion that is normally included is an 18 tooth.

good to hear that your maxx is working again...

does anyone know if someone has tested out the gorillamaxx chassis yet? i would like to know how that awsome looking piece of art holds up to the tough stuff.

oh, finally shipped out the EVX to traxxas. anyone know about how long it will take for it to return?

The baddest chassis i've seen for the emaxx is the Unlimited engineering chassis www.unlimitedengineering.com It holds i think up to 8cells on both sides.

Has anybody used the trinity maxx paxx 1900 scr packs in their e-maxx? I've been having problems with my batterie lately.... messed up conversions from stick to side by side packs.... different connectors for my vehicles.... batts not fitting in e-maxx chassis... etc.
I'm gonna just buy some new batteries, and I was thinking of these. I'd like to eventually pick up at least 2 pairs of these to use in my maxx (as well as matched packed for my racing vehicles)

I bought a pair before I bought my maxx for practice packs. They were the worst packs I've ever bought. Others I've talked to say theirs were great. Maybe I was used to better quality packs? I don't know, But I did not like the Maxx Packs.

I may try them. I want to get some batteries to use just in my maxx.
well, if the maxx paxx batts weren't good, do you have any suggestions for stick packs that cost $25-30 and aren't generic cells? thanks.

Actually No. Sorry. I haven't been in the market for that type cell for quite some time. Pro-Match seems to have some good specials now and then, check there.

I may try them. I want to get some batteries to use just in my maxx.
well, if the maxx paxx batts weren't good, do you have any suggestions for stick packs that cost $25-30 and aren't generic cells? thanks.


i think their around $45 now, but i got my ultra metals for like $33 bucks each at tower. just wait untill their on sale again (or just join their super- savers club)

anyway, the real point of this post is that i got my maxx running again!! man, did i miss running that thing! anyway, few minutes into the run, started acting sluggish, took off the spur cover, and found that one of the set screws on the pinion had backed out and it was only running with one motor (not good). put thread lock on both set screws, tightened the slipper a little, then went back out. after that, ran like a dream.

oh, and bluemaxx, the gorillamaxx is the best. the only thing that comes close is the torpedo chassis. those hold like 30 cells :freak:

Man, I raced my Maxx again last weekend & I must say I am kind of disappointed in the MIP CVD I was using for the rear center drive shaft. It has fallen apart (drive pin falls out) 3 times since I installed it and this last time I noticed that the drive cup on the bone end was severly worn in. but the wierd thing is that it didn't wear like like normal, you wouldn't even notice it unless you were inspecting it closely (as I did). The pin on the end of the bone had worn into the metal of the drive cup about 2.5mm but the metal is thick enough that the edge still looked straight, it was just worn inside.

I have no idea why the pin fell out 3 times, I use locktite blue on the set screw. I even put a zip tie on it that stayed in place until the pin fell out!. I guess I'll have to find some good shrink wrap for it.

Tom I had the same problem and I just went back to the stock one's. They may break after so long, but at least their not as exspensive and a pain as the mip's. I had to order the pins twice, and I lost all 4 of them.

Yeah, the biggest pain in fixing it is that it fits so tight you have to remove the whole rear end to work on the CVD. I'll probably put it back on, but with some good shrink wrap!

Hi Guys,

Well another E-maxx hit the earth today and has started to dig up the soil. Very impressive truck. As the head pit boss I'm still trying to check everything out and learn more about it. Your thread has been a big help thanks.

Some general questions for you.

It seems soft in the supension, this may be by design but I thought I would ask anyway.

Another issue is my battery packs fit very tight in their compartments. Should i plan on switching from standard 6 cell packs to a side by side packs? I'm using GP3300 cells.

And the most pressing question is how do you get that plastic film off the body? :D

Yes, the suspension is soft. I solved it by putting heavier oil in the shocks, keeps it from rolling too much in hard corners.

as for the batteries, side by side 3300's won't fit much better unless you use the right battery bars.

If it's new, there are a couple things to check just for good measure, remove the gear cover and check the tightness of the motor screws and pinion screws, Then check the slipper adjustment.

Thanks Tom,

I believe I read 60 wt oil was being used, I'll need to order some.

I'll do the checks you suggested before she makes another run. I should have done that first anyway, I know better.

I really like the 3300, I'll think about this one for awhile.

Thanks

I have a Q about the E-maxx.
I is durable?

Bill, I race mine with 80wt in front and 60wt in the rear. I also run GP 3300's in a side by side configuration, they fit well if the battery bars are fairly flat.

Usagi, The E-Maxx is a very durable truck, it has a couple of weak spots (all R/C's do), but they don't normally appear unless you are abusing it. And if your abusing it, what can you expect!?!?!

Thank you Tom :roll:

I am looking into getting a TXT-1 or a E-Maxx.
The Truck looks like alot of fun! If i can find on reasonal enough I will buy one.

:thumbsup:

[QUOTE='tommckay']
as for the batteries, side by side 3300's won't fit much better unless you use the right battery bars.
QUOTE]
My batts fit tightly, so my question is: what are the right battery bars? I use Dean's Probar 3.

BTW, who has the lowest prices on the e-maxx?

Thank you :)

BTW, who has the lowest prices on the e-maxx?

Thank you :)

I just picked one up and this was the lowest price I found.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVS28**&P=0

Good luck

JB, I use Deans bars but I flatten them out a little with pliers and a hammer on cement (I don't have a vice!). If I could find perfectly flat bars I would use them, I had some at one time but they have been discontinued & I can't remember what they were called.

Tom,
Wanted to thank you again for the reminder to check things out. I found three things that needed adjustment. Two screws needed tighting and one motor/pinion needed to be adjustment. Thanks.

I just bought off eBay and installed a complete front and rear end with 2.5 parts (arms, towers, gearbox, the works), new. I noticed that the new parts have spacers on the upper arms. Since I don't have a book, what are these for? Caster adjustment perhaps or something else?

I just bought off eBay and installed a complete front and rear end with 2.5 parts (arms, towers, gearbox, the works), new. I noticed that the new parts have spacers on the upper arms. Since I don't have a book, what are these for? Caster adjustment perhaps or something else?

yes, the clips are for caster

Glad to help Bill! There always seems to be at least 1 loose screw under the gear cover, I don't know why. Bu I had someone tell me that before I bought my first E-Maxx, & it was true for both of them I bought.

Or in Tom's case, one loose screw behind the wheel... ;)

But that one has stripped threads Hank. No hope! :lol:

Stripped?!?!?! I don't even want to think about THAT!

Oh c'mon Hankie. Ya know you can't help it! :tongue:

Man, I think I have the worst luck with my emaxx. The day before RCX I fried a cell in one of my battery packs. Because I only have 2, I wasn't able to run the maxx. When I got that fixed, I drove my maxx from the garage through my house to the back yard. That resulted in a broken front driveshaft. I ran it for about 30 seconds in my yard before I snapped a rear driveshaft. Well, I take it inside, and a little over an hour later its running again. I had a jumping session in the yard and it did fine. How it could break two shafts from 2 minutes of running and then withstand a jumping session with out "breaking" is beyond me. I emphasize breaking because although nothing broke, a pinion gear slid off one of the motors and got lost in the yard (I haven't been using the gear cover). Oh well, I guess that's another trip to Ultimate Hobbies for me... :tongue: