SilverEvader,
i was looking at the RPM skids a while ago and noticed that it looks like they only come up about and inch or more in the front and back (at least in the pics on towerhobbies). is this true or do they come up as high as the stock ones?



and we just reached the 100 post mark. woo hoo! :hat:

Smojoe - You are right. I have them on my Maxx and they only have a rounded up edge about 2/3 inch. The instructions say to install them over the stock skids, which is what I did.

1

anyone know if the 32 pitch, 66 tooth, kimbrough spur gear for the tmaxx will also fit the emaxx?

Well I'm still not sure what was binding where. But, it is fixed. I installed an aluminum Dynamite Steering Bellcrank set, used bearings instead of the bushings. Also rechecked everything from the pivot balls to the servo saver. Turns like a dream.

Last nite I tore down the back half off the truck and replaced my rear diff with a Traxxas Spool. Will try to get out to the track today and see how it works. I know these are normally used for pulling. But I am hoping to get the rear to slide more in sharp turns.

I haven't seen that particular spur gear, but it is the same size as the stock emaxx gear. If you have seen one, does it have similar mounting holes?

Here is a link to the
Kimbrough T-Maxx Spur (http://www.hobbiesr.com/kim/kim-531/kim366.htm)

Looks good to me.

I am in the process of freshening up a used E-MAXX for my daughter (and myself!). It may be run in a dirt oval race or two (my reason!). I read here that the IMEX Baja tires were the lightest available. What wheels would be concidered light weight too? I was also planning to put the Pro-line skid panels on it, but now am after reading one of the earlier posts, I'm kind of discouraged to think that they must be placed over the original TRAXXAS parts thus adding weight instead of eliminating it! I have already decided to not use any heavy aluminum parts on it for weight conservation.
Another question, has any one ever used the 3 piece foam liners with the firmer outer rings of foam to aid against tire roll in their tires?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Greg

Don't know the weight of the Baja's, But Proline Bowties are 4oz. lighter than the stock tires. I used the Bowties on a set of RPM StableMaxx Clawz. Theese have more offset than the Standard Clawz. I believe the RPM rims are a little lighter than the stock ones.

If nothing else I know I shave a pound off with the tires.

Good Luck

might want to try out proline maxx velocity wheels. if you do any running on gravel or something, i wouldent get the RPM crome ones. had some on my evader and after a run on gravel, found half the crome to have suddenly "dissapered." oh, and IMEXs are nice tires, but if the oval track is hard packed (like they usually are) you might want to look into the bowties Silver mentioned for more traction on the hard stuff.

I have a buddy that runs the IMEX tires for the weight reason and there wasn't much difference in his traction and mine with the Bow ties. I believe IMEX has 2 different compounds too, so get the softer ones if you go that route.

I'm sure the E-MAXX isn't really suited to oval racing, but here in our neck of the woods, oval takes ups the majority of racing here.

I went ahead and bought the IMEX Baja soft compounds and the Trinity inners to try. I'm having to wait on a set of RPM Stablemaxx wheels before I can mount them. The savings of up to 4 oz. on a wheel seems quite alot, for a stock wheel assembly simply weighed in my hand doesn't seem as though it weighs all that much. I'll get out the ol' digital scale to compare them when I get one of the new ones built. I hope you all are correct!

Question, just how important is the heavy grease in the differentials? I dissassembled my EMAXX this weekend and cleaned up all the bearings and drive components. Instead of restricting the action of the diffs with such a heavy grease, I put a light application of silicon grease on the gears. The diffs worked quite smoothly afterward. Can't help but think the easier rotation of the components will help in the speed and load on the motors.

What are your recommendations for hinge pins and turnbuckles. I must have the longer turnbuckles with the wider arms I'm installing and was wondering if the Lundsford set would be recommended?

What about the stock axles verses CVD's? They are quite pricy and from experience know that the CVD's are susceptical to bending.

Thanks, all comments are appreciated.

Greg

This was the weight difference of stock tires versus Bowties. Not the RPM Rims. Overall the difference between Bowties on RPM Stablemaxx Clawz and Stock tires and Rims is felt even just in your hand. Sorry Don't have an exact weight difference. I put the diff spool in the rear diff on mine and just just a thincoating of Associated Black Grease, that's all anybody around hear uses for their diffs.

Not sure of the differnces using CVD's, just now that the stock axles WILL Twist. Just a matter of time.

Hope this helps

Originally posted by tgburnett
Question, just how important is the heavy grease in the differentials? I dissassembled my EMAXX this weekend and cleaned up all the bearings and drive components. Instead of restricting the action of the diffs with such a heavy grease, I put a light application of silicon grease on the gears. The diffs worked quite smoothly afterward. Can't help but think the easier rotation of the components will help in the speed and load on the motors.

What are your recommendations for hinge pins and turnbuckles. I must have the longer turnbuckles with the wider arms I'm installing and was wondering if the Lundsford set would be recommended?

What about the stock axles verses CVD's? They are quite pricy and from experience know that the CVD's are susceptical to bending.

Thanks, all comments are appreciated.

Greg

I rebuilt the diffs in my E-Maxx (because I HAD to!) and re-assembled them with lighter grease, the thick goop that was in them had seeped out and gummed up the bearings so they needed a thurough cleaning too. A little faster and more run time afterwards. I've been running it with the coating of silicone grease for a while now with no ill effects. the main reason they put the heavy grease in them is to crate a slight Positraction effect. If I want Posi, I'll put a spool in it.

Turnbuckles? Yeah, Lunsfords. None better.

CVD's? I installed them on the rear of my truck, made sense after installing the Pro Line kit and I saw the twist that was happening to the shafts. I like them and couldn't not recommend them if you can afford them.

how do you take apart the diffs in the maxx? i was looking in one of the manuels that came with it (the one with the exploded diagram of the truck's parts) and it looks like there are no screws or bolts holding in the diff cases. is this true or am i seeing things again?


got the duratrax blue aluminum skids, took it out to run, and put three LONG steeks in the purty thing... oh well :rolleyes:

there are to screws part # 2560 and a slip-on ring part# 4980. Page 12(front) and page 13(rear) diff diagrams show these in your E-Maxx Instruction manual.

Hope this helps

As I stated in an earlier post where I was bummed out for having to attach the RPM skids on top (or should it be bottom!) of the stock pieces. If for no other reason than for the additional weight the RPM parts add to the truck, even if it is to the bottom of the vehicle!
Do the aluminum aftermarket parts require this attachment principle too?
What about titanium skids?
Good sources (best prices!) for such parts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Greg

i just yanked off the plastic ones and bolted on the aluminum ones. tge good thing is, duratrax supplies you with new fasteners (i stripped two taking the plastic ones off). i dont know, but i think tower is still selling the front and rear set for $30 (reg $35-$40) and center skid for $20 (reg $25-$30). i got a $50 gift certificate, so it worked perfectly.

oh, and the t-maxx spurs fit the e-maxx.

IMHO- forget the aluminum, go Ti all the way. RacersEdge has Ti skids that are 2x as thick as stock. And don't get skidz in any of the "pretty" colors if you race at all. Color skids are for show trucks.

Donalbain is right, i'm afraid. i learned that colored skids are only for show trucks the hard way.. :mad:

Does RacersEdge have a web site? If not, does anyone know of site that might have pictures or discriptions and prices for those items? Thanks again, Greg

OOPS! I found it!

A little hard to navigate and find the titanium parts without doing a search queary though.

saw the new Pro-line "big joe" and the "road rage" 40 serise. very nice looking, and also a tad bigger that those big ofna tires for that big truck of theirs (is it the monster pirate?)

yup, its the monster pirate
I haven't been running my e-maxx much lately. I hope to soon race at a somewhat competitive level, so I've given more time and attention to my evader and losi xxxs (which was sort of a Christmas gift to myself.) Also, The batts I use for my maxx have been running pretty bad lately. The last time I ran my maxx was a few weeks ago at socal rc raceway. I think I got about 4 laps in on one charge, whereas my evader was running 12 minutes, and thats with a 12 turn motor. I think I'll have to cycle them.
So hows the e-maxx holding up for 'ya, smojoe? Any popped shock caps yet?
If I can get good batts for my emaxx (I'm thinking of getting a pair sanyo nicd stick packs for it), maybe I can race it too!

emaxx is running great! re- did the wheelie bar today and actually holds up when i wheelie! also got some LEDs from radioshack and hooked them up so i have bright blue lights in the front and semi- dim red lights in the back. so far i'v been having a blast.. oh, and no blown shock caps :)
still cant get over how big and expensive the maxx tires are. (and pretty much everything else for the maxxs) nutin but money pits...

No blown shock caps? you must be doing something wrong lol. JUMP HIGHER! yeah, its quite the money pit. If i race it I would need new tires (about $80) and batteries. I converted most of my stick packs to side by side packs, and my earlier attempts weren't that great. Even if they were completely straight, they wouldn't completely fit; the battery bars get in the way. I won't do any racing mods for my e-maxx for now(except for a servo) because I need to makes my losi xxxs race ready (I'm using my old sprint esc with my worn-out 17t speedgems 2 motor. I plan on eventually getting a duratrax intellispeed 8t forward esc and either reedy ti, trinity p-94, trinity D5, or team orion core touring 10/11 turn motor.) It'll be a while before I can afford these, though.

just take the LRP and the P-94 out of your evader if your going to run TC instead of truck. i need spring to come along and dry up the dirt so i can run the E where i usually ride my mountain bike. sad part is i was just going to go out and run it today because it was dry, but then mother nature played a trick on me, and it rained this morning. :mad: oh well...

I plan on racing both touring car and stadium trucks, so switching the gear back and forth would get pretty tedious.
I also have renewed hopes in racing my maxx. I ran it with my two best packs (a Peak racing matched sanyo 3000hv pack and an umatched trinity panasonic ultra metal 3000 side by side pack). The difference between this and my other batts was amazing. It actually ran more than 4 minutes! Lets see, E-maxx racing tires/wheels: $80. Duratrax Esc:$75. Motor:$50. Fast servo for my TC: $50. Volkswagen beetle body for my emaxx and hot pink paint: $25 (just joking about that one). I can't wait until summer and its money making oppertunities...

because there are no nearby tracks, im just going to keep mine a basher. big joes and aluminum threaded shocks are on the top of my list.
your right about summer being a good moneymaking oppurtunity. i think i made about $200 in the course of two months..

Once during summer I made $100 in 2 days. That was 2 8-hour days working in my moms office.
That's another thing I need: aluminum shocks. I want dynamite threaded shocks for my maxx and some kind of threaded shocks for my xxxs.

last night (after cleaning the mud off my maxx for about 2 hrs) i figured out, with some swapping of materials, the EVST rear shocks fit on the maxx. however, you have to use the hex screw and shock holder (the plasic thing between the shock "loop" and the hex screw) from the EVST and the maxx's bottom retainer clip and ball cup "thingy" at the end. however, to use just one shock for each arm (what im thinking of doing), im guessing you would need about 70-80 wt oil and some VERY heavy springs (possibly "Heavy Heavys" by trinity) .

whats new for the maxx:
-got new MIP CVDs for the rear (the "proline" ones work fine)
-stripped a screw trying to get the wheelie bar off (their so close to the a-arms, it hard not to)
-bent ANOTHER wheelie bar shaft (when the wheelie bar WAS working)

just thought i would give whoever actually reads this ( :lol: ) a 411 on how im doing.

I'm still reading Smojoe, I just haven't done much with the maxx lately. Not sure if I have updated you guys on mine or not. Got rid of the PT Cruiser body, cause its not an easy fit. Added a Dynamite Steering package and a Dynamite Servo Cover. Also added a rear diff spool. There's a hill behind our LHS were we do out TC parking lot races that is almost to steep to walk up or down. There was a guy trying to run an Evader ST up it, didn't happen. My Maxx climbed up it six times befor my batteries (half dead or more) died.


That's all that's new here. Other than my XXX-NT that I just put an OS CV-RX .15 with a Hardcore Racing Head on.

Race day tommorow. Will run the E-Maxx if there are enough.:dude:

Bad news - There were only 2 E-maxx's for race day = no E-maxx race.

Good News - Thanks to our LHS (HobbyTownUSA) we have been invited to the Civic Center this Friday and Saturday for the Monster Truck event. We will be putting on a show with E-Maxx, T-Maxx, Savage, and 1/8th scale buggies.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Too cool...:dude:

sweet! wish i could go, but with school, and all that distance, i think i'll just stay home...

another run down of stuff:
- bent A THIRD wheelie bar shaft (is there anything harder that hardened steel?!)
- broke a rear left bulkhead in half (thank god powerline sells aluminum ones for 34 bucks)
- made a GIANT jump out of an furnature box, which was to big so i just made it into sort of a hill to climb. of course, my mom wanted to see what would happen if i went full throttle off it. thats how i busted those parts. landed square on the wheelie bar. bad part is, im allready in the red from buying those CVDs...

Titanium, maybe? But who would spec titanium for a printer....
I took all of my non-racing batteries and made 2 seven-cell batts for my maxx and an eight cell batt for my evader.
I haven't done many upgrades on my maxx lately. I think the only other upgrades I'm going to make for it are aluminum shocks, tires, and a new body (pro-line gmc sierra). Before this, however, I'm gonna race-prep my losi xxxs (esc, motor, threaded shock bodies).
a little poll: which gear in your maxx do you prefer?

im not using the printer parts anymore. stupid epoxy wasnt holding so i just made a better one. i think i fixed the problem by mounting wheelies both on the inside and the outside of the four bars, so that weight is transfered to four spots instead of two
so hows the xxxs goin? good, i hope
amuminum shocks, CDVs for the front, aluminum bulkheads, and a GorillaMaxx chassis. oh, and big joes..
i now perfer second gear because after gluing my tires, i can wheelie in both gears. though first is awsome for going over rocks and running up dirt piles..

p.s. the GorillaMaxx chassis can be viewed at www.gorillamaxx.com and go to gallery. its awsome, and it should be for only $185

WOW!!! Thats an awsome looking chassis!
The xxxs is holding up well, just needs some racing electronics. The old 17t motor just doesn't cut it. I've read in RCCA that the xxxs had a tendency to spin out more than the associated tc3. With my weak motor and servo, I can't get get it to spin out at all.
I prefer second gear also. I like the speed and the slightly different sound. I prefer 1st gear when my batteries are going dead, however.

Has anyone tried the Proline Widemaxx conversion and the PRM StableMaxx rims together?

Yeah, DJ1978 (Dan) has at Washtenaw, Makes for a Very wide Maxx! Very stable, but Dan said he didn't have good enough steering. We have a good group of us running them out there and nobody uses the combination of both. I think my sons are the only ones using the Stablemaxx rims with stock suspension, the rest of us run the Pro-Line kit. 10 E-Maxxes on the track is quite a sight to see! Problem is finding Marshalls that aren't afraid of them and marshall properly, sometimes they just stare at them & look like they are wondering what to do........:confused:

Thinking I'm going to have to do the E-Maxx thing for MARS... should be a blast!

Is the Proline conversion even needed with the new WideMaxx?

No, the Widemaxx is the same width. But the sliders are supposed to be beefier on the new truck.

After a little research I figured that out... at least that will save a few bucks.

well i smoked my EVX yesterday. my only question is how should i send it back to Traxxas? i have the "Traxxas Lifetime Electronics Warrenty" card, but thats a little sketchy on what to do. anyone have any "experiance" with this sort of thing?

whats new:
-Smoked EVX (duh)
-wheelie bar is working. just had to have two wheels on each side of the bars
-fixed the bulkhead with some plasic cement. seems stronger than stock, actually

sad part is, all my other cars arent working bacause my dad and sister is using the ESCs, controllers, and recievers for a science olypiad robot (see if i can post pics of it later)

Well Smojoe,

Unfortunately the only experience I have with them is bad. One of my friends sold his E-Maxx after the 5th time he sent his EVX back. They kept refurbishing his even after they promised a new one. He would get it back, run it once or twice and poof. The last time he sent them the entire truck, and sold it the day he got it back.

As far as how to contact them and set up sending it back not real sure. Will talk to my freind later and get the details on how he did it.


Hankster - Welcome to the darkside!!! The E-maxx is very stable with the new wider arms and RPM Stablemaxx rims. Mine is on the lowest ride height with least suspension travel (outside holes on arms). I can't remember the last time I rolled in a corner. I run Pro-line bowties and a spool in the rear. Put the spool in hoping it would slide the back end a little in the corners. The bow-ties almost hook up too good. Slow down turn the corner, Walk the Dog (wheelie) out of the turn. Really funny to watch with the blue PT Cruiser body and blue-chrome RPM Clawz (stablemaxx) rims.

Once again hankster, really sorry about the Evader ST parts.:wave:

This setup is for those who run the stock tires. May work with others.

Try 0 (zero) toe-in/out in the rear. 0 camber in the rear, and about +3 in front.

The positive camber in front really makes the front dig in while the 0 toe in back scoots it around center.

I just put an HPI Dodge Ram body for the Savage on my E-Maxx, What a nice body! And a good fit too, looks sweet!

I know the stock Proline foams break down fairly quickly. What foams have you found that work well in Proline tires?

i had a dead evx also and this is the response i got from traxxas on what to do.... and since i got rid of the junk tamiya plugs on it and switched them to power poles (mostly because thats what all my batteries have) im kind of screwed cause that voids the warranty! they will charge extra to replace with stock plugs, and blah blah blah.... so i just went and bought a new evx and learned my lesson, i just made an adapter from my power pole plugs to the tamiya plugs so if anything happens again i will take advantage of the warranty! i will still send the dead one in someday to get fixed when i have the extra cash since it will be cheaper then a new one.


Hello,

Following is the warranty info. on that.

All warranty claims must go through our on-site repair lab for diagnosis and repair. Traxxas Corporation assumes responsibility for its products and will repair or replace any defective product at its sole discretion. We do not support dealer generated product replacements. Our toll-free customer service line provides direct access to our factory trained representatives. In most cases, replacement items are set out the same day the order is received. In the event that factory service is required, our technicians are usually able to make repairs within a 3-5 working day time frame. Many times we are able to immediately solve problems over the phone by simply educating an individual with regard to the basic operation of our products. Traxxas offers a 30-day limited warranty on all their electronic components and a two-year, manufacturer-defect warranty on Traxxas nitro-powered engines. In addition to these warranties, Traxxas offers an extended service plan for electronic components. After the 30-day warranty has expired Traxxas will repair electronic components for a flat rate of $15.00 plus $5.00 for shipping and handling. The electronic components covered under this service plan include electronic speed controls, transmitters, receivers, servos and battery chargers. Motors and mechanical speed controls are not covered. Products damaged by intentional abuse, misuse or neglect may be subject to additional charges (up to $25.00) on top of the $15.00 warranty charge (not to exceed $40.00 plus $5.00 shipping). Rewiring voids the 30 day warranty. Electronic speed controls which have had the factory wiring connectors removed and replaced with non-factory connectors will be subject to an additional $25.00 rewiring charge.
Traxxas also offers the Engine Replacement Plan for nitro-powered engines. This plan allows you, at any time throughout the lifetime of your TRX Pro .15 engine, to exchange it for a brand-new TRX Pro .15 engine at 50% of the suggested retail price of a new TRX Pro .15 (current retail price is $140.00 for an engine with a recoil starter). For more information on any of the Traxxas warranties or any of our other service plans, contact our customer service department or check out our web site at www.traxxas.com To take advantage of any of the services we offer, or if you believe you have a warranty issue to solve, simply send in the item(s) in question to the Dallas address listed below with attention to customer service. Include a copy of your receipt, a note describing the reasons you are sending the item(s) in to our repair lab, a daytime phone number, and a return shipping address.



You can view all of our vehicles, prices, exploded views and parts lists at our website. www.traxxas.com and www.t-maxx.com
If you need further assistance, please feel free to contact our Customer
Service department at one of the following:


Best regards,


Philip Belknap,
TRAXXAS Customer Service


Monday through Friday, 8:30am to 9:00pm Central Time


US Customers only 1-888-TRAXXAS
Outside of US 972-613-3300
Fax 972-613-3599
e-mail support@traxxas.com
Address 12150 Shiloh Road
Dallas, Texas
75228 USA
-----------
TRAXXAS UK
Voice 44-117-956-1002
Fax 44-117-956-1121
Address P.O. Box 1128
Winterbourne, Bristol
BS17-2SH, England

Hank,
I ran the stock Proline foams for over a year in my BowTies before they noticeably started to break down, then I did my 'ol pocket knife re-clamation trick and installed the firmer Racers Edge 3 piece set. They are pre assembled with a firm foam on the outside edges and a softer foam in the middle, much firmer than the pro-lines when new.

Northerner-
I had the same issue, I cut off the bullet connectors to the Motors so I could direct solder & installed Powerpoles/Sermos/Lite Speed/Black & Red connectors for the batteries. But I cut the original plugs off with some extra wire and then installed my connectors with a little extra wire so I just had to solder the 2 wires together neatly making the whole lead longer. Cover the connection with shrink wrap or good electrical tape and your good to go. When I had one go bad, I just soldered back on the original connectors and sent it in. I've had to send 2 EVX's back in, both times they re-wired them, 1st time they didn't charge me, second time they did.

arent the replacement EVXs like $120? if thats how much i gotta spend to get a new one, i'll just save up the money and get a hacker instead of replacing it. i dont see why there so picky about replacing the plugs. heh, i'll just cut off the deans and send it to em' with no plugs. i can say i hardwired it and that they cant charge me with changing the plugs because i dont have any! if only...

whats new:
- evx is *still* toast (making my room smell funny)
- took apart the entire truck at one time (was really bored)
- went to my LHS and picked up a urban style hummer body and some matallic blue paint. lookin pimp so far, but need another can and some overcoating (any suggestions?)