Thanks ,

I 'll order those instead.

R.S.

Tom:

Hi,

I was wondering if you have done a ReVolt conversion yet??? I have heard about them I'm thinking about doing one as EMaxx's are popping up at a track about 40 miles from my house. most have U.E. chassis and other bits on them so...... before I break mine out again I'm thinking about a change.

Thanks for you time

Tim

Actually, yes, I have. Somewhere in the history of this thread around November/December 2005 I probably have a post with some pics of it. It's not a hard conversionbut there are a few little tricks to do, If you have any questions just ask!

did anybody do two hv-maxx brushless sets yet? I was told all i have to do is run 4 packs, y-connect the esc leads an just remove one red lead, does anybody know if this is correct or not? tired of being so slow in top end wish i could show it off, dont know how to post snapshots yet

talked to traxxas, and there working on a adaptor so we can run 1 bat pack instead of 2.....:dude:

in other news found im liking the maxx more and more...

talked to novak myself they said to just hook all up like normal just put y connecter on the leads to speed controllers from reciever and remove one on/off switch, can run on two packs but will have real short run time.

Maxx slow in top end.... 2nd gear? How fast do you need it to go? Ever hear of terminal velocity? With the big tires these trucks have, there comes a point that the truck would become uncontrollable. Lose control of a 11-15lb truck at 50+mph and the results will not be pretty.......

Not that there's anything wrong with going fast, just let me get out of the way!

if i cant pass a nitro to me its slow. i guess i am spoiled, i have a ft tc4 with a 5.5 velocity with a gtb it does 96 (clocked by a wentzville police officer) with all aluminum suspension from goodsgood on ebay.the extra weight helps to keep it well planted. i race on asphalt street, the only thing i cant stand is big debris on road like single grain of sand. NOT JOKING!!!!!!! yes i know sounds funny till you break an aluminum a-arm.but thats why i got a truck, and i know i can make it fast too. just tired of melting motors. and does anybody know a better way then those stupid drive cup pins,i keep shearing them in the cups,at least their easy to get out after they break, if anybody was wondering the fastlanemachine 31mm strrrrrrrrrreeeeeeeeaaaaaach chassis is awesome so are their bulkheads, shock towers,and best of all the aluminum transmission case. put steel gears in it to. going to buy the hybrid bulks soon,they use 1/8 scale diffs. the pins i am talking are the allen with thread to a thin shank that passes through either the diff input shaft and or the diff output shafts or the trans output shafts that threads into the cups. i hope that that made sense. thank you.

oh and by the way the motors i melt ar the hv4400s. if you go into thermal lock to many times the thermal lock will stop working, and the motor will cook till it melts internally "novak does not cover such breakage under warrenty" checked. and if wondering i run a 14 tooth pinion with a 70 tooth spur and intellect 3800 6 cell packs,which comes to a grand total of 28 mph, advertised 39 mph, but that is with stock gearing, which you can not run due to the overheating problem they have created with their product! isn't that special! just showing my age there. check the addendium " can't remember how to spell that"

oh and if any body out there has integy shocks, ofna makes an o-ring that is a little thicker than the ones they give you to use in the kit. use just one stock o-ring and one ofna o-ring in the bottom and they will never leak again.

Think I want to get rid of my t-maxx and get an e-maxx. I guess it cant be converted to electric. I already have the maxx speed control.

What should I look for if buying used?

Tow Jockey - You've been shearing the pins before twisting the shafts in two? that is very odd. I have yet to shear a pin, but I have twisted may shafts & u-joints in half. Only advice I would have for that atr MIP CVD's or UE Supermaxx shafts.

Minreg - You can convert a T-Maxx, you just need a complete E-Maxx tranny, battery holders and maybe 1 center shaft. It will need a little dremel & drilling on the chassis is all. There are some that prefer the converted T-Maxx chassis over the E-Maxx. Or if you check E-bay you can find the chassis, Transmission, & center shafts fairly cheap to make the conversion even easier. But... getting a whole E-Maxx is a viable option as well. As for what to look for..... well, that's up to you, its no different than any other truck, just make sure you have good pics to look at for your decision making.

Is there a downside to using the t-maxx chassis and just adding the e-maxx tranny? Im happy with the amount of hop ups currently on it so if the conversion will work for me it would be good. Do all the e-maxx trannys have reverse?

let me clarify, i have steel cvds front and rear by dynamite, the front drive shaft is a mip cvd, the rear is a steel dog-bone that comes with the FASTLANEMACHINE.COM 31mm strech chassis. i am running all steel gears in the trans, and aluminum cups in the diffs. the diff,trans cases are both aluminum. hv maxx brushless with trinity heat sink motor plate. i have aluminum hex adapters (stock blue by traxxas) and i break the cross pins in those also. i am not a beat your truck kind of guy either, i still have the stock a-arms and steering blocks i have not broke a single part nor wore any thing out yet. exept the first hv maxx motor i got i melted from the thermal lock seizing on me in the run pos.i bought the truck on 5/23/06, oh and i have a neat trick for everyone used stock shock upper screws in the steering rack to bell cranks joint and put lock nuts on them.works on plastic and aluminum cranks. powerline cranks work awesome could use a darker shade of blue though they are that trinity powder blue at least you cant see them. if any body knows how to use the t-maxx trans in the e-maxx i would love to know how, i want an automatic trans in an electric truck for my kid so he wont smoke motors brush or brushless.

minreg you dont need reverse on the tranny in an electric truck when you use reverse the motor runs backwards not like a gas motor which only turns one way.

Minreg - Yeah, reverse is thru the ESC, not the trans. & no, I really don't see a huge downside to using the T-Maxx chassis and converting.

Tow Jockey - Oh I see now, you've bomb proofed the drive train enough to find the next weakest link. On my MIP CVD's I had on my old maxx the drive cup had 2 large set screws the basically clamped into the thru hole in the output shaft. Much beefier than the pin system. But beware, once you bombproof that, the next weakest link may be the output shaft itself! I'd much rather replace a pin than tear into it and replace an output shaft!

i have the mip drive shaft on the front. i kinda dont like the twin allens, but if i have to i guess i dont have much choice.do the mip outdrives mount the same way? i guess i would like them better if there was some kind of nub or something on the tip of those allens to fit into the holes on the out puts on the trans. what can i get a drive shaft out of to put in the rear that is 35mm longer than stock for the fastlane 35mm strech chassis that i am running. it hav a dog bone right now.

minreg i would at least get a stock e-maxx chassis all of the other parts are the same, like bulkheads, ladder bars, diffs, the only real differance is the trans, motor mount, front drive shaft, and servo mounting locations. "as far as i know"

oh and i am correcting all previous statements about the fastlane chassis it is 35mm longer than stock, and it is all to the rear, none to the front so all the factory linkages still work. the only thing is if you run the hvmaxx brushless it streches the sensor leed a little tight.

well small update from today. i was asked to help doa demo at a charity race. so i brought a coulpe of micro/minis and the emaxx. boy did it get a lot of attention. many a jumps with hard landings. and nothign but a scratched up lid to show for it.

rebuild the shocks after i got home. i used the rpm medium 2stage pistons and 50wt oil. i iek the way the truck handles now. mush more sure foooted, and it response much quicker. i also went back to a 18t tooth pinion set up. i thinkt he 19ts i was running was high for my truck. i had short run times and a bunch of heat.

Breaking in e-max brushes ?????????


I just bought a pair of traxxas marine 550 motors for my son's e-max because he had a pair of the old small vent hole motors.

But ,,, after installing these in his truck and running it against mine , his was SLOWER -------I kind of suspected the problem and after looking at the brush contact on the comm ,very little brush area was seated or making contact.

Has anyone found a way to seat these motor brushs as they seem extremely hard as even my e-max with some time on it is still far from being properly seated.

Even a partially seated motor was night and day difference in speed.

At this rate ,the brushes would last a life time.

Trivia , buy the traxxas motor heat sink wraps , $4-5 thru tower each but what a difference, well worth the difference.

Thanks

R.S.

You could try low voltage water dipping to get the brushes seated better.

Somewhere earlier it was stated that the HPI hubs would fit the E-max , well I bought a set and they might fit over the axle but the HPI truck has a step down axle and they fit poorly .
I don't know if the hex's are supposed to be the same size ??? but fit very loose in the wheel and measure about .015 smaller than the stock plastic ones. I havn't bought any traxxas ones yet but these deffinitly DO NOT work well at all.

Thought I'd let everyone know to save the agravation I experienced.

R.S.

Thanks. Never tried it, but now I know.

Thinking about purchasing a brushless motor and was wondering what parts I should upgrade. I have a full set of cvds on order. Will the transmission hold up? Thanks for any info.

Weakest link in the trans in the Idler gear. There are steel ones available, not a bad investment

Weakest link in the trans in the Idler gear. There are steel ones available, not a bad investment

Tom,

You talking about the Traxxas hop-up for the idler gears?

PD2

Nope. Supermaxx makes them and another company.

Your going to need a metal spur gear,cvds,center cvds,you will proble blow your diffs before the tranny but the tranny will go to :thumbsup:

Nope. Supermaxx makes them and another company.

Do you have a link to them? Just wondering.

I have an E-Maxx on the way right now and I'm looking for these things on the truck that will be "weak points". I don't want to trick the truck out with tons of bling - just replace the parts that are common wear points or issues to harden the truck for bashing around. So any suggestions for that would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks!
PD2:thumbsup:

Sure!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13407.html

I heard there was another place doing them, but never caught the name of the company

Sure!

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13407.html

I heard there was another place doing them, but never caught the name of the company

AH! UE! I remember using them for my old OFNA Dominator Hybrid! Cool! So any other suggestions on "hardening" or making the E-Maxx stronger for just pure bashing fun? I don't want to get parts that make no sense - just those that help the weak parts.

Thanks again for the post!
PD2:thumbsup:

Well, as the saying goes..... "you can bullet proof 1 part, but then the next weakest link will fail" so... There could be a long list. The way I do it is run stock unitl it breaks, then fix it & upgrade depending on what I was doing when it broke (was it my fault for being stupid?). This is because I have driven a stock vehicle hard and not ever broken a part that others seem to break almost every run. It's driving style and control, Your driving style may be much easier on a particular part than someone elses.

Well, as the saying goes..... "you can bullet proof 1 part, but then the next weakest link will fail" so... There could be a long list. The way I do it is run stock unitl it breaks, then fix it & upgrade depending on what I was doing when it broke (was it my fault for being stupid?). This is because I have driven a stock vehicle hard and not ever broken a part that others seem to break almost every run. It's driving style and control, Your driving style may be much easier on a particular part than someone elses.

That's very true Tom - I had initially thought of the exact same thing, so I guess I better stick to that, rather than rip through some unnecessary cash right now. Thinks for reminding me of the golden rule of upgrades. ;-)

I'll post up when the truck comes in and let you know how things go with my first real basher!
PD2:thumbsup:

Anyone heard of a new version of the E-maxx? I am waiting to see if one is coming. I am assuming since the stampede and rustler were upgraded, they will do the same to the E-maxx. Thanks for any hear-say.

Anyone heard of a new version of the E-maxx? I am waiting to see if one is coming. I am assuming since the stampede and rustler were upgraded, they will do the same to the E-maxx. Thanks for any hear-say.

Actually, I e-mailed Traxxas sales about this about a week or two ago. As usual, they are pretty tight lipped about it and really could not tell me if a new verison of the E-Maxx was coming out or not. The only thing they did tell was to continue watching the website and that would be the best way for me to know if and when a new E-Maxx would be released. So I was like, OH, and I replied to him and said, well, if I read between the lines that means you will have a new one released but you cannot tell me when, hence why I need to keep watching the web site, right? He just laughed in response and said I give everyone that response when looking for anything new regardless of whether we are working on something or not. So who knows what they will do, but I have to agree, that is the last vehicle they have yet to "refresh" in their current product line.

I did see on the forum where several people have started a petition to get them to work on a 1/18th scale version of either the Rustler, Stampede or E-Maxx. That maybe something at the top of their list. Who knows?

Aside from all of that, I saw in the latest RC Car Action magazine that they have a kit from Gorilla Maxx that converts a Revo into a brushless Revo. Interesting, but VERY expensive! Just to give you an idea, the Gorilla chassis alone is $289! They have a complete list of the gear they used to convert the truck in the magazine.

PD2:thumbsup:

here is a site i found today with some e-maxx parts and electric revos
kershawdesigns.com if your going to run brushless get cvds and the metal spur gear they will break as soon has you hit the go go button :thumbsup:

Has anybody did a 4 wheel sterring on the Emaxx and if so How did you control it
I am very interested in the control part I have a buddy that has the servo mounted and did the y harness but wants to use the shift switch to control rear steer
Any input is greatly appreciatted

on the rear steer you can go to unlimited engineering, they list a rear steer kit that is UN-available, but it might give you some ideas. as far as steering goes you can y-connect, or you can use the third channel "shift channel", their is a conversion kit to put a stick you can operate with your thumb. i think it is at super-maxx.

3rd channel mixing on the right radio.

radrc.com sells the rear steer kit"servo,mount,linkage,electronic perportion module". and thecrawlerstore.com sells the third channel adapter kit to turn the rocker switch "shift switch" to an anolog thumb steer stick. down side with stick kit is you cant shift on the fly anymore. but with the radrc you can do it with out converting your tq3 radio. but with that you cant crab the truck."drive sideways only tight turn"

Or you can go to radio shack and get a 3 postion tago swich and put it in thats what i did with my rockcrawler works great

Well, since i posted last, ive gotten rid of the t-maxx in favor of a e-maxx. Not content with just a offroad, went and picked up a 2nd for onroad fun. this one is a roller, but almost finished. :dude: got a few pics for u alll to check out.

I dunno.... those tires in the 2nd pic look like they are awfully worn..... Or are those drift tires? :lol:

:jest: good one. Well ,heres up dated pics and theme.

Theme: ALL AMERICAN MUSCLE
colors: red white and blue! :cool:
body: 65 stang made by either parma or bolink(dont know)
wheels: sport maxx done in red and trimmed in blue
front and rear bumpers will be in red.
Powered by stock motors,stock gearring.
batts: TO2400's
front skid is aluminum, may go RPM tho.
tires: duratrax street meat

truck and tires are both used, got great deals on them.

...this just in, running my maxx yesterday and broke the rear bulkheads ..so just swapped out parts to the project maxx, so now i need:

rear bulkheads
body posts
evx

glad i got the 2nd maxx :wave:

Here's my e-maxx FREAKZILLA

got any larger pics :confused:

heres a pic of my maxx twins