If you want bigger tires JB, you might look at 1/8 monster hoops. I've seen a t-maxx with 'em, pretty tall.:devil:

Anyone know where I can get adapters to put Clodbuster wheels & tires on my Maxx? I know ESP makes a nice set, but they're pretty pricey.

k1m-
go to www.radrc.com and click on the "fatty maxx tire kits" button. it is 125$ for the basic kit, but you get the tires, wheels, and foams along with the adapters.

I think I'll get duratrax nitro quake tires. I've read that they fit, and on rccar action's websight, they have a picture of a t-maxx with them on. looks cool!
I think I'll stick with nicads with my e-maxx. They get extremely hot when I run them, and I don't want to ruin expensive cells.
I might try do a homemade roll cage for my e-maxx. I got the monster truck book from rccar action, and they have an article on making them. doesn't look too hard. I just need new tools. I have a piece of junk $10 30 watt radio shack soldering iron, and they also recommend the use of a torch to clean up the joints.

I found a simple and free way to make my e-maxx look bigger: raise the body! the e-maxx has adjustable body mounts, so I just put them at their highest levels. the thunder quake tires would looks so good with the body jacked up like that!
I need opinions here: I don't know whether to stick with a traxxas e-maxx body (silver or clear, and then painted by me) or another pickup, or if i should get a hummer. let me rephrase that: pickup or hummer. A hummer would look cool, and it would simplify the roll cage. I also like the pickup look, and a roll cage designed to fit the countours of a pickup would look better than a hummer roll cage, which would pretty much be a box.

Originally posted by smojoe


...once i get the emaxx (once; not if)...

Good for you! the ultra metal packs would work great, as long as you don't fry them. the runtime would be excellent.
I plan on leaving the electronics stock, except for the steering servo and the receiver; I might eventually get an FM radio, and the servo needs more muscle. Besides, If I get a stronger servo for the e-maxx, I can stick the servo from the e-maxx into my evader, almost doubling the power (I use a standard servo in my evader)as for the motors, I'm happy with the titans it comes with. If I did upgrade them, I would go brushless (and not the team orions; something like a Hacker, maybe). I have heard that one brushless motor is more powerfull than the two titan 550's put together. Imagine what two would do! the problem: cost. 2 BL motors and speed controls would run $500 easy. That's too much!

what? too much!?! you get a maxx truck and dont expect to put 1000s of dollars into it?!? i laugh at that! ha ha ha ha ha! lol...
get a hitec digi servo. costly, but worth it..

lol....
My dad wouldn't let me spend that much on only motors and speed controls, and I would rather spend that money on a lot of aluminum parts

I took my e-maxx to the park again last night. I finally have end-over-end rolls mastered (there isn't much to master; just build up some speed going down a grassy hill, hit full brakes, let the truck roll, and gas it as it get rightside up) I enjoyed running it in the baseball diamond; the was so little traction, you could hit the brakes and turn at the same time while going full throttle, and it wouldn't flip. Do that on the concrete and it would go into a long string of flips.
Another neat thing was finding a slippery piece of pavement and doing donuts on it. YES, I said donuts on the pavement (Ok, maybe I am going nuts, or I had too much fun doing it!)

I got the jeep cj8 body for my e-maxx. I made some mistakes painting it, but I had a great time doing it! I'll post pictures when available

I am changing this thread from the "E-maxx forum" to the "E-maxx and T-maxx forum", so if anybody wants to discuss the t-maxx, do so here!

im thinking JB & smojoe should have just been emailing each other instead of posting here! LOL

There hasn't been much activity here for while. Does anybody else have an E-maxx?

Mine has the stock purple body, with the front window mostly cut out. I've installed Ti hingepins and the PL suspension kit. Also, it has the lightweight gearbox components from Traxxas. I bought the RacersEdge Ti skidplates and removed the "bumpers." Finially, I installed RPM bulkhead braces and an aluminum link from Megatech between the bearing raced belcranks.

I believe the E-Maxx to be one heck of a truck for all bashers but only marginal for racers. I'm a racer. If you're a racer, concider replacing the stock plastic shocks with aluminum bodied ones, and beefing up the universals. Biet with a wooden dowl or CVDs.

I have been wanting an e-maxx for a while but the bucks haven't materialized. I have seen several used ones on this BB though. Any thoughts on getting a used E? I love it when somebody comments (more often on eBay) that the truck was adult owned and therefor well cared for! Yeah, right, and I don't beat the heck out of my trucks. The difference between mine and my kids' trucks is that I can afford to replace the busted parts! Buying over the net obviously has some buyer beware potential but what sort of things wear out quickly?

This last weekend I met a guy with an E that he had put Monster Maxxs into and the best I can say was that is sounds horrible! He was having trouble with a variety of parts but it was loud and just nasty sounding. He says that was the Monster motors. Any thoughts on that? I know you have extra diffs and the like that will add to the total noise but do these sound that much different than other single motor trucks? This one sounded like my kid's old Radio Shack truck!

Chris

The nasty sound coming from the truck probley came from the gearbox. You mentioned this person had "Monsters" in it. I assume these are the Trinity motors. They have fewer winds ("more powerful") and place more stress on the gears than the stock motors. They seem to loose their power after 4 or so runs. So, the sound is the idler gears, maybe the primary gears too, wearing away. If he were to open his gearbox, I would garentee there would be white flecks and powder that once were these gears, all over the inside. The truck is a tad noisy overall when compared to a 2wd race truck because the Maxx has two gear diffs instead of the a single "ball diff."

Don't get me wrong, this will happen with the stock motors in time also. The aftermarket motors only accelerate wear. Some people (me) will put a lubracant on these gears. I use KryTech by Finish Line. You'll find it in most bicycle shops. Many uses. I haven't opened my box since so I don't know if it slowed the wearing process. I'm sure the gears are a consumable part, like motor brushes.

I would recomend the Maxx to anyone who wants to have fun. I've owned mine for just over a year and have smiled lots! At our track, we call the Maxx class "Elephant Racing." What a blast. However, one racer, a RACER, said that if the Maxx were his first car, he probley not be in R/C since he's replaced many "non-race" parts. See my post above. I've replaced a few, and have not broken the bank.

Hope that helped.

Don

Yeah, the E-Maxx is alot louder than a normal 2wd truck, you got 2 motors meshing against a single spur & 3 gearboxes.

I bought a used one off E-Bay and had no bad luck. Just make sure you can see pictures of it and look closely at them for abnormalities.

I later bought a New one at the LHS and it sounded the same as the used one did.

Yes, the e-maxxes are pretty noisy. I Think I'll leave the motors stock, and upgrade just about everything else. I have plans for new bodies (pro-line hummer militia and caddi escalade). I currently have a jeep cj8 body on it. It turned out pretty good for my first paint job.

My sons and I race both out E-Maxxes and have raced them against maxxes with the Mod Motors, and while they are fast, ours still have enough speed and actually benefit from going "slightly" slower. Speed Kills! and causes more wear & tear on the truck.

The amazing thing is, I have alot of hop-ups on my truck and my son's only has 2 (Bow ties and stablemaxx wheels) and they are both very well matched trucks against each other. Mine is slightly faster for some reason, but the boy's truck has longer run time.

OK, I just got an E-maxx and I am planning on running it at the Washtenaw RC Raceway track. Tom, can you give me some suggestions as of what oil and spring setup should I look into for the type of track and dirt we build ours with?

Also, I still have the stock tires, and the previous owner cut/shave them down. So will this tires work in the track, or should I consider spending money on new tires....and which ones?

I just got a new set that I won in a raffle at Lazer last Sunday. So I could by another set for the car and be set in tires.

Any suggestions on swaping the steering servo for a higher torque one? I am thinking using the Hitec 5945MG with this specs...
Speed: 0.16 sec/60 degrees at 4.8v
Speed: 0.13 sec/60 degrees at 6.0v
Torque: 152.75 oz/in at 4.8v (9.6 kg/cm)
Torque: 180.53 oz/in at 6.0v (11.4 kg/cm)

Will it be worth the difference in this truck at the track?
Is the terminal that I need for the servo be compatible with the Futaba if I am using the Traxxas original receiver/radio system or compatible with the Airtronics/JR?

Thanks..
Carlos

Cool Carlos, you'll get a kick out of it!

1. My set up may sound odd, but it worked. I left everything stock and only changed the shock oil and added some spring clips in the front. I ran (and still do) 90wt in the front and 60wt in the rear, it took the nose dive out when braking and cornering.

2. As long as the tires are not shaved way down it will be OK, I actually cut the corners of the tread off of one of my sets (so the lugs were the same height all across the tire) and it helped reduce rollovers when cornering. If you want to put new tires on, get some RPM stablemaxx rims for it, they are worth it.

3. A higher torque steering servo would be recommended. I changed to a Futaba 9402 in mine and a 9404 in the kids truck. I takes some of the "mushy" steering feel out of it.

4. The Traxxas shifting servo plugged right in to my Futaba reciever with no modification, so it would stand to reason that a Futaba servo should just plug in to a Traxxas receiver. I would recommend changing to a 75 band radio for more frequency choices, I run both of mine with Futaba 3PDF's.

I'll look forward to banging tires with you this winter!!

When you changed the oiled in the front, have you had any trouble blowing the plastic shock caps? I hear they are very weak in nature.

I installed 50wt in the front and 45 in the rear. BUT the nose diving is still there. I was wondering how much higher can I go in weight of oil before it is too much for the shock caps. Also, I am considering getting stiffer springs for the front and standard for the rear.


Last night I installed the lightweight aluminum main driveshaft and lower shaft with idler gears..... for less rotational mass.


Carlos

I'm running 60wt AE oil up front, 50wt AE oil in rear. I've had no shock cap problems. But then I don't jump off roofs and stuff either.
I bet the people blowing caps are hydra-locking their shocks when they build them.

I have the IMEX Baja tires on mine. They are the lightest tire available. And they've held up and handled well on all surfaces. But I ran Dan's stock tires for a couple weeks and they worked ok too.

Robinson racing Slipper clutch....get it. Probably the wisest $20-&25 you can spend on this truck.

If I were you, Carlos, avoid the Hitec and get an Airtronics or Futaba servo. Consider it an investment in peace of mind. I've not had a Hitec servo that works longer than a month or so without losing center. I'm running a Futaba 9303. Tommy's right about the 75MHz change.

Don't bother with the aluminum crap (except maybe bulkheads). It just makes the truck heavier (not good if yer racing) and if you bend an aluminum part your bummin'.

I think we should set some rules forth for the E-maxx class this year, Carlos. Unless you want it to just be an unlimited class. The stock motors are good for speed and more durable than the mods people are using. I guess it depends on what you want the class to ultimately be like. All out money game vs. budget spec class. I think the kid buying one off the shelf shouldn't be outclassed if he wants to come race with us.

With the heavy weight oils in the stock shocks on both trucks I've only blown 1 cap, and that was on the rear of the kids truck when doing hieght/distance jumps (yeah, we were abusing it hard!). so I don't see any problems with the stock units if you're not doing mega jumps. I did buy the Dynamite shocks for my truck, Losi style with threaded shock bodies, pretty cool!

Put stiffer springs on and you may not need the heavier oil, but it may get bouncy, don't know. It's all trial & error, My set up works for me & the kids, Jessie's works good for him, we seem to be pretty evenly matched on the track, It's the drivers rythum that seems to win out more than truck performance. It seems like Jessie & I couldn't get "in the zone" at the same time in MEXORS, so either he won or I did, I hope we gan get "in the zone" at the same time at Washtenaw, I think that would be an awsome race if we can!

We all need to compare notes and see what parts we need to carry to keep us running. I have a pretty good assortment (leftovers from hopping up mine, and other parts) to carry along so I'm pretty well set. But we'll figure it out.

Great Tom, thanks for the input. I will bring my parts too, whatever I upgrade and swap out, I will have with me for spares...


Carlos

Yeah, if it ain't worn out, don't toss it out, it might come in handy!

I have had good results with my hitec servos. I raced mod class with a 525BB in my losi buggy for two years with no trouble.

I have a Digital 5945 in my 1/8 scale buggy and it's been awesome.

One word of caution, though... it may be better not to use a digital servo in the Emaxx because they draw more amps and the EVX seems to have a weak BEC. My brother put a new digital servo in his Emaxx and the EVX stopped working almost immediately. Throttle is dead, but the steering works... go figure.

im baack!

i see this thread sort of "died," so maybe me coming back will spark some new visitors.

the only thing new to say about an e-maxx is that i am eagarly awaiting x-mas to open the one under my tree.

come back JB_the_evader! we have a lot of catching up to do!

-smojoe

All right! lets get this thread going again. First off, welcome back, Smojoe!
Here's my list of upgrades on my e-maxx:
pro-line cadillac escalade body
pro-line maxx suspension kit
2 team-orion 3000 mah rocket packs
duratrax silver front and rear skidplates
hardcore (or dynamite; cant remember) center skidplate
tamiya terra crusher tires/rims
And here's a list of possible upgrades (I'll know Christmas morning)
hitec lynx 3d
dynamite aluminum shocks
pro-line chevy suburban body
pro-line front and rear bumpers
I took my e-maxx to socal rc raceway a few weeks ago. It handled pretty well and managed to clear all of the jumps if I did it right (except the triple; it couldn't go far enough.) It was kind of cool; my maxx got more attention the the other trucks with just about every high end feature (heck, one of the guys that had a super-pricey truck thought my e-maxx was cool!) Another nice thing is that people tend to get out of my way in the slower parts of the track . A collision between a 10 pound truck and a 3 pound buggy can't be too pretty (entertaining, maybe, but not pretty.)
Come Wednesday, smojoe, you'll experience the joy of an e-maxx.

OK, I'll go thru my list of Hop-Ups:
Pro-Line Suspension kit
Duratrax Purple shock set
Duratrax Purple aluminum steering linkage
Robinson Racing slipper
MIP CVD's in the rear
MIP CVD center rear
HiTec HS945MG steering servo
Futaba 3PDF radio & 3 channel receiver
RPM Purple skid plate & bulkhead set
RPM Front & Rear bumpers
Pro-line Bow Tie tires
Parma Dodge Ram Body
Sanyo 3000HV's


Hoping to get a set of the Pro-Line 40 series tires & rims to try out.

JB-
how does the pro-line suspension kit work with (im guessing you still have it) the stock oil and springs? also, i thought u had a jeep pro-line body? lol

my only "pre run" hop up would be my trinity ultra metal packs

The pro-line kit works really well with the stock setup. I have the top of the shocks on the outermost positions, as well as the bottom ones. Really firm and good for jumping.
I also have a jeep body (its my climbing body). After painting a few bodies, I reallized I really enjoy doing so. As pathetic as it sounds, painting up a lexan shell is the most artistic thing I can do (my regular art tends to scare people.) I just finished my best body yet a few weeks ago. It was for my evader. Really nice five color design. On another note, its almost like getting a new truck (at least visually), but for a fraction of the cost.
The ultra metal packs should run real nice. I've run one of my ultra metal packs with a friends reedy r3k pack. Excellent power. If I get the money, maybe I'll eventually spring for a pair of ballistic-matched batteries. I hear they're about as good as you can get for the e-maxx.
Only 2 more days Smojoe!
(watch, the big box under the tree that looks like an e-maxx will end up being a really a big box of socks, lol.)

i have had my emaxx for about a year and a half and its really fun, but i have only used it about 5 times. i have about $600 worth of hopups and extras for it.
i would like to sell it but i will never get my money back out of it. the truck is in mint condition since i just dont make time to drive it.
im to busy working on my touring car and my buggy and truck so the maxx is just sitting there. :cry:
maybe things will slow down where i can get some use out of it again but i doubt it, i should sell it and let it go to a good home!

"just look at all these tube socks!" (said by willy during the springfield riot)

i hope not, because i picked out and ordered it myself from tower...

oh, and its only one day, its a family tradition that we open presents the night of christmas eve (dont even ask me why)

Well Northerner, look at the bright side, At least it's not getting worn out! I have more than $600 into mine and race it every other week (and have a blast doing so), but mine is more worn out than yours...

woo! no tube socks! did get a nice pair of bike ridin' gloves though...

well, its everything u said it is. wheelies in 1st, rockets in 2nd, and just plain looks cool. im happy! merry christmas, ya'll!

Sweet. I got a hitec lynx 3d and some battery building equipment, but the fm receiver isn't compatable with the plugs on my emaxx, and I didn't get a battery jig, so i can't build any yet. Too bad the lhs is closed today...

Got a new set of Maxx Mashers for mine, the bow ties have about a year on them so the new ones should be cool. Also got a couple tools and a new soldering iron, the rest I bought for myself ( 2 3300 batteries, 2 GM powercharger battery chargers, 2 back up Titan motors, and some other odds n ends for my Losi trucks).:thumbsup:

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
...but the fm receiver isn't compatable with the plugs on my emaxx...

the stock plugs are futaba style, right? if you look at the plugs, do they have two little lips on, i think, the white wire side? if so, just take an exacto knife and cut off the lip that extends down (but be carefull! i dont need to hear any bad news!) and i should fit in the hitec style holders. if all else fails, just take it to the hobby shop.

and i dont think i need the PL widemaxx thing. my E has the new "traxxas widemaxx" that they put on the 2.5 T, along with the new, stronger, sliding universals.

and last, how good do the stock tires hold up? im going to my LHS soon (i hope) and i was wondering if i should grab a new set of tires there or just glue on the stock ones?

The stock tires hold up pretty well. If you run on pavement a lot, it will start wearing on the side of treads a little faster than normal, but the treads themselves won't wear down.
If you do get new tires (and not racing treads), I would go with maxx mashers, or you can get some tires off of a different mt. I have terra crusher tires on mine, and compared to buying regular maxx tires, they were cheap.
Pro-line masher tire: $25-30 a pair (I think)
wheels (any brand): $10-15 a pair
Glue: $3-5
My tamiya tires:$30 a pair (that includes the tire already glued to the rim.)
You don't need the pro-line kit with the widemaxx suspension.
I thought the plugs were futaba also. I checked a plug from a futaba servo and it fit fine, so traxxas plugs are like, but no exactly, futaba plugs. I used a dremel (also a gift) to shave the material down. It Fit!
Awww, not tube socks? I thought maybe I could get a great deal on them from tower hobbies.

i was doing a little reading on the Hitec 3D. not to shabby of a transmitter for the price! and im glad you got it working, so give me some info on how it works soon.
i guess I will stick with the stock tires for now, but once i can get my grubby little hands on the money, its PL "Big Joes" for me..

The 3D works really well. I think it's (about) the best bang for the buck. It fits my hand really well. I haven't really had a chance to test it (batteries have been failing me), but it should give good control. The programming is hard at first, but once you get the hang of it, its easy (although I still have problems with the abs feature). The shifting could be better (the buttons are hard to reach while driving, but i'll get used to it).
Big joes? Sweet.

or a new steering servo. i replaced the stock one with the hitec from my evader. it had 30 oz./in more torque, but it still doesent have what i need. i might have to go digital to get what i want out of a servo.

Well, there is an airtronics servo that has 200 oz./in. of torque. Hmmm.... 4ws and 2 of those maybe?

my hitec seems to be working fine. the servo saver got busted (somehow) so i replaced it with a regular servo arm. runs great now!
i made a custom wheelie bar out of some stuff from an old printer. the epoxy has to dry overnight so i'll give you the 411 on it in the morning.

well, its dry, & seems very tough. didnt have time to give it a good test because i have been helping family out. however, i will give you info tomarrow, unless my family planned me to do something with them... :rolleyes:

A wheelie bar out of an old printer? This I must hear.

i used the paper intake rod with the little rubber, lets call them, rollers. it ended up something like this (using text, at least..)
((()))-O--((()))--O-((()))
the ((())) are the rubber rollers, the -- is the rod, and the O are the mounts i glued to the bumper. it works, and thats all that matters.
was raining mostly today, so i disassembled the two speed tranny. pretty ingenious..

bad news. while i was running the E in a field, i guess the wheelie bar got stuck on something, and it broke off. next thing to try is bolting it on somehow... however, it didnt end up as bad as my dad's plane. he broke a prop and a gearbox on a hard "landing." :lol:

Hey all,

I have 1 of the new wide Emaxx's. I already replaced the steering servo with a Hobbico that has like 30-40 more oz. of torque. Seems OK, but then the other day it just quit turning on way (left I think). I am gonna tear into it and see what's up.

Anyways me emaxx sits as follows so far:
WideMaxx Emaxx (lowest ride Height w/ max suspension travel)
Proline PT Cruiser body (painted metallic blue)
Proline Maxx BowTie
RPM Bluechrme Clawz
RPM Blue Skid plates (3 piece)
RPM Blue Rear Bumper
Hobbico HS-71 (steering servo)