this is the E-maxx forum. and we think you are asking us how to adjust the T-MAXX"s 2speed tranny. and they are not the same.



welli had my first failure/brakeage with my E-maxx. busted the servo saver, lost very common hitek servo screw of 2.6x8 and busted a left front suspension arm. the saver that was on the truck was week. and the a-arm looked to be a little tweeked from the sellar. but it sure has been FUN! :D i picked up some new gp3300's packs for $24.99 a pack. andwow fun times!

well i read the very first page and it say I could also post T maxx questions here. So i did, I posted in the regular monster truck forum and no one seemed to have any thoughts or ideas on it so i thought i would try here :rolleyes:

ahhh :D i never read the first page ;

never worked on T-maxx but i will try to help!
the t-maxx shifts into 2nd gear on it's own. you cant tell it to go into 2nd it does it at a certain rpm point( i beleive).

the simple steps are make sure everythign is clean, no bent parts and go from there. but maybe the guys at maaxtraxx.com can help you better then i can.

lol its all good man sorry i came off as a dick, I sat here and read back through my posts and thought my god, i came off totaly different than how i meant it to be. but anyways I know it shifts automatically and there is an adjustment that you can do, but im not sure exactly how it should be done, i read on the traxxas page how to do it but i must just not understand or somthing haha, but thanks for the help

Peter - That's not too bad... Wait until you do a "big Air" jump and loose it a little in the air for one reason or another and it lands square on its nose & you think you busted it clean in half (which you will pretty much do). Its a easy fix but it's really a "holy crap!" moment. What happens in the front bulkheads break where they mount to the chassis and the front skid snaps just in front of the steeering linkage. That leaves the only thing holding the front of the truck on is the tie rods and truck body. I've had it happen a few times.

I take it the new 3300's are helping with the speed fix?

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showpost.php?p=287111&postcount=5907
my work in progress. installed my new 19t pinions. and rpm a-arms. need a new allen wrench to install the bearing carriers. got all the goodness in the pics for $30 :D i beleive this may be a pre wide maxx truck. but i am happy with it and in the future the rpm wide arms are not the at much.

once i go tthe gp3300's i lost the 2.6mm screw for the hitek servo in it, and the a-arm was getting worse so i havent run the E with them yet. but hope early next week. waiting on a bulk pack of screws for the servo.

oldschoolsdime9,
hehe it's okay. i do they same type of things. but i am a nitro noob to be had. i do want nitro, but i promised myself i would buy a house first! interested in what you guys think of the pics :D was toying with the idea of going with 2 rooster esc's.....but i think i am good with the evx for now.....

have good weekend all

-peter-
:)

looks like shes going to be almost bullet proof, and im glad you when with RPM stuff instead of that aluminum bendy crap! :)

Peter, I'm glad I looked at your pics....... You have the old style motors in it (I can tell by the endbell) which are 23 turn motors, the new style are 21 turn motors & do make a difference. Here's a pic of my son's E-Maxx.... see the larger vents in the endbells?

http://images1.snapfish.com/346%3C5%3B956%7Ffp344%3Enu%3D3253%3E%3B5%3A%3E4%3A 8%3EWSNRCG%3D323379%3A4%3C4677nu0mrj

so is there anything we can do to make these things feel alittle more, oh whats the word im looking for.. stable? Ive got my stearing at the mercy of a futaba 59315, which will just about pull the front wheels out front under it(192 oz of torqe) does somone make a sway bar kit or anything?

Lay the shocks down and use heavier oil. Try 60wt in front and 40 in rear to start. Then if it still feels unstable lay the shocks down. If it still needs more up the weights by 10 and try again........
I ran 80wt in front and 60wt in the rear with good luck.

tom,

thanks for the heads up on the motors. i picked upa pair today. but the header card on the bag still had the old part number and read 23t on it.

we will see ;)

i finished rebuilding the E last night. well to a point. without that stupid 2.6x8mm screw i cant install a new servo saver to run it. as it sits with the 66/19 gearign combo and the new batts, it well sounds nice;)

hoping ot get the truck well done this week and a new body painted. we are heading to the eastside of the state for a soft ball tourney and i want the tlt and e to go.

Hi all!

I need some help converting a t-maxx in a e-maxx. Do you guys think it is possible? If I buy a electric motor and batteries, could I use the old parts like chassis, shift box, etc?

tks! (and sorry my poor english)

Peter, Yeah it's weird, they didn't change the part number but they did change the motor. It was really hard finding the new motors at the LHS when the part numbers were the same and they wanted to sell the older stock 1st! Basically all Traxxas did was put the motors out of their Villan boat in the E-Maxx. Kinda made sense really, now instead of carrying 2 motors they only have 1 for both.

Mactrash - the conversion can be done, but most people just replace the stock transmission with an E-Maxx transmission, it's much easier than trying to Fabricate a motor mount to run the stock transmission. The whole rest of the truck could be used with no problem (or at least little to no problem!).

well i nstalled the motors and fires them up for fun. they seem to spool up a lot faster then the motors i had. but still no new servo screw...thansk for th einfo on the new style motors ;)

i have a dumb Maxx Q?. so how stupid would it be to run a basher E-maxx- with no bumpers? i want to slam the body low and bumpers would be in the middle of the grill.... i thought about turnig the bumper upside down. but i didnt liek how low th ebumpers would have been..

Mine works great without bumpers, I kept the skidplates and it actually make the bulkhead braces better stiffer.

Like guver says, you can run it without bumpers if you want. But the bumpers do serve a purpose and take some of the abuse away from the chassis.

One consideration to make before you slam the body too much, airflow. The lower you slam it the less cooling air there will be for the ESC, motors, and batteries. All 3 generate heat and the less space under the shell you have the hotter it will get & you'll get the ESC thermalling on you.

yeah i see your point(S) tom.....maybe i will notch the body and leave it up....but was thinking of making my stick packs into side by side packsa dn mount them under the chassis...

guver, do you have pics of your truck anywere?

i want it to look cool and function well.

thanks for your words of wisdom guys :D

-peter-

I 've had my e-maxx about a month now and it has been a blast everytime I take it out. I only have one set of team orion heavy duty 3000nimh. Charging them with duratrax IntelliPeak Twin Pulse Charger. I was looking to get another set and was wondering if someone could recommend me to a decent battery with longer run times. Right now I'm probably getting 15mins. Should I stick with the team orions? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

There are alot of quality matchers out there & it's not necessary to stick with Orion (although they are good), just know you'll get the most power and runtime using matched batteries (you didn't say if the Orions you are using are matched or not). Check with you LHS for what they have, 3000's are older cells now, you need to look at 3800's or so. Check online with places like Pro-Match and one of the fine sponsors of this site. Not knowing what your budget will allow, you'll need to shop around a little.

Hi Tom:

I was wondering if you have gone brushless on your E Maxx. me son seems to have found a stunt that takes out speedos (a really cool front roll) so I have about 4 of the kit ones sitting in my basement. I'm beginning to suspect the stock motors sooooo I am thinking about a brushless setup. since none of the tracks around here race E Maxxes anymore (really suck cuase it was fun and I actually did fairly good at it) so I guess bashing will be all I'll be doing (or chasing the newest dog in our sub).
anyway thanks for your time and help

Tim

I personally have not gone brushless yet becuase the class thet I race in requires stock Titans and 12 cells as the only rule for the class.

I do know a couple guys that have put the brushless systems in thiers though & say they are the best thing since sliced bread. 1 guy put the Novak HV-Maxx in his and the other uses a Hacker system. They are fast and offer more run time than the stock set up, but I cant speak for reliability. I was talking to the guy that had the Novak system in his last weekend and he said he burned out the ESC on it, but I didn't get any details on how it happened.

I really can't see front rolls being the cause of EVX ESC failure, but stranger things can happen. Have you tried the Novak branded ESC for 14.4v applications? It's supposed to handle things a little better than the EVX.

If you got 4 EVX's sitting, I would send them in to Traxxas and they will repair (replace) them for $20 each, You could then turn around and sell them for $60 each minimum and use the proceeds to invest in brushless or the Novak unit.

I don't have any pics, Ron. Mine looks the same as any stock truck (with a pack hanging underneath)

Tom, I like that rule (keeps it fair and cheap maybe) If it requires stock titans and 12 cells then how about 3 stock titans? haha

i was over at RCMT the other day looking and it seems the HV maxx requires a ton of alloy drive train parts, mip cvds, all alloy gears and diff cases becouse of the insane torque it has.

i have been looking some what into Bl for the e-maxx cous of my smaller Bl RCs. but thinking it might not be the way to go.

Tom:

Hi,

I've thought about going to two speedos (like the gt7's or cyclones) and a fan to help keep them cool. I hardly ever use reverse. (all those years of racing 1/12 scale....and now sedans).
I'll check out the other Novak speedo.

Thanks

Tim

dawrench...i race with tom in the winter and i also have a novak brushless that i use in my revolt in the summer. i recently thermaled my motor one too many times in a row doing some testing with my 8000 lipos. all i can say is the novak system is considered a mild brushless system but it puts out all the power i will ever want. it has great drivability and tons of torque. just gear it at 13 or 14 pinion and 70 spur and it will rip. it was my fault my system failed as i didnt let the motor cool off enough after thermalling. i am now in the prosses of figuring out how i want to mount a fan on the motor heatsink. it already comes with a fan for the esc.

Gary - Oh it was your motor & not the ESC, my bad.
DaWrench - Going with 2 speedos is OK in therory, but doesn't work in real life. 2 reasons as follows:

#1 - 2 esc's with the stock Titans, 6 (or7) cells per motor. Not enough voltage to get performance out of the titans, they need 14.4 volts. Running 12 cells per ESC will get the voltage there, but then the weight of 24 cells would be a problem.

#2 - 2 ESC's with 540 motors (regular size) with 6 cells each, gives so-so performance, but the amp draw it takes to get the truck moving will cause alot of wear on the motors & they just don't last.

Peter - Your starting to understand whay I preferred to stick with the Stock titans! works out much cheaper! I'm sure the beefier drivetrains of my Revo conversion & the newer E-Maxx with the Revo shafts would hold up better but I'm still not ready to invest in a Brushless system I can't race.

i wish i had a place to try and race my E. i think that is a style of racing i could love. i have been a no show to our local micro and mini races. sometime the kids's sports are in the way. but most of the time it's the basher in me wont let me go indoors to run!

still trying to see what kind of deal i can score on some big bores at the lhs. i do have rpm 2stage pistons on order though! :D

what shocks does everyone else run?

I ran the stock shocks for the most part. But I did have the Duratrax shocks on my old maxx that were Losi shocks with the threaded bodies. Very nice.

YAY I just got an E-Maxx!

pat welcome to the emaxx clud :D


well one set of my rpm 2 stage shock pistons came in yesterday :( think i may run the heavy up front and mediums in the rear. not going to be able to get the big bores i want any time soon.

my E has been sitting unsed since my last post. want to paint my new body fr it before i run it again. i should have time to mask it this next week. working on my 10th scale drifter's body early next week and tryong to finish my lith-ion, coreless powered micro speed runner now.


have a great weekend all.

-peter-

Congrats on the E-Maxx Pat, Have fun with it!

Hey guys I am wondering if anybody has an older stlyel E-maxx Nonwdie version they want to trade or sell off I need one as stock as possible and doesn't even need to be rtr I would preffer a roller no Elec at all Meaning the cheaper the better
I am also looking for a Stock T-maxx older nonwide version too
The reason is I have a couple newbies taht want one and I have Lots of parts for the older style
LMK and Thanks

Battery question again. I am looking into these smc ib4200 6-cells for my e-maxx and was wondering if these would be a good choice. Also, what does the "ib" mean? Thanks.

The IB-4200 would definnetly be a great choice for your e-max, probably the best bang for your buck.
Pro-Match has them with deans pigtails "assembled" for $45.00 :thumbsup:

IB is just an abbreviation of Intellect Battery Co.

Intellect has by far set the standard in the RC market vs. co. like GP.

GP's 4300 cell is just a marketing number as the cell rating is 4100 mah :confused:

Off this subject ,-----And I'm sure I missed this somewhere in this forum ,
Whats the difference between the large end vent hole motor and the small one ?? Is there any wind or performance difference.

Thanks for the feedback

R. S.

I stand corrected , IB stands for Intellect Brothers.

We mostly play around the yard with our E-max's but one thing that really helps the handling is to put both batteries on the left side.

Leave left side battery in original tray and mount other battery below that battery under chassis .

Make a couple slots in the chassis plate about an 1/8 inch by 1/2 inch so you can fit strapping tape around the bottom pack " below chassis" and wrap a few times.
I usually back it up with a nylon tie or two and havn't had any problems.

We usually tear around the yard in a left hand oval course so this makes them alot more stable and vertually eliminates roll over.

I'm goin for it! Thanks for the feedback NCFRC!!! :thumbsup:

Large vent motors are the newer style & there is a performance difference. The large vent motors I believe are 21 turn and the small vents are 23 turn.

Where do I find the 21 turn motors as all the parts places list the replacement motor # 3975 as a 23 turn ??

Thanks for your feedback


R.S.

I know its a pain since they didn't actually change the part number with the motor change. I went thru a whole bunch of trouble thru my LHS getting the new style because distributors were all stocked with the old style.

1 way around it is to order the Villan EX boat motors, Same motor now. Thats all Traxxas did was put the boat motors in the E-Maxx.

Traxxas claims the E-max motors are still 23 turn , the stampede uses a 21 turn but can't handle 14 volts.

Maybe the new large vent hole motors have more timing ???

THanks for the feedback

I'll just order the boat motors as I don't need the leads anyway.

Solder the wires direct and forget the connectors.

R. S.

i have soem of the newer titans and they do seem to be a nicer motor then the older small vent hole ones. i dont think there less turns but have a stronger magnetic rin on the outside of the can and they cool faster then older titans.


well a E update for me. i have painted my c-10 chevy body and put all the stickers on it i am going to use. i just need to ream it and i will throw up some pics. well i wil do it once i am done trying to fix our dishwasher :(

later all

-peter-
:)

i just need to ream it and i will throw up.......
I found this oddly funny...... and if taken out of context, Very strange....

well i wil do it once i am done trying to fix our dishwasher :(
When you get your dishwasher fixed, will you fix mine too? I think it just needs a new inlet valve......

well to be honest tom after i finish mine i dont think i will ever work on another dishwasher again! mine has needed a copper hose with new fittings(not standard had to go to a plumbing repair place to find it), a O-ring for the pump motor (leaked all over), and last and hopefully least i ordered a new door seal for it yesterday. should get it this afternoon.. :( man am i tired of that thing!!!

not sure if i will get to picks today no sunshine :(

later :)

back to the E-max topic -------

Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?

Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?

Just got a maxx this spring, and so far its a awsome truck. :dude: Did break the front arms tho, so i rpm'd it.

back to the E-max topic -------

Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?

Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?

i use soem tamiya alloy clamping hexes for the TnX. i am looking for the link on tower. but any alloy hex for the Tnx, savage or durtrax warhead will work on the E.




general, the E looks like it's getting a lot of use :D. i am having esc issues with mine right now. cant get it to set up right :(

fav truck :dude: have a e-pede and t3, but dont run them much...wanting to sell/trade them off :thumbsup:

back to the E-max topic -------

Has anybody replaced the cheap plastic wheel hex adaptors with aluminum ones ?

Has anybody figured out how to balance the wheels ?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVK5&P=7
some hot bodies hexes. about $6 cheaper then the tamiya ones.