I've seen one, but not seen it run. It had 2 Li-Polys and the HV Maxx in it, the guy did it for the run time, he said he was getting 30-40minutes per charge depending on how hard he ran it. He did say it was REALLY fast though!

Tom:

Hi,

Are you still racing you E Maxx???. mine is just sitting as there is no place to race. I ended up going to dual speedos (Cyclone TC's) as the stock ones were letting the majic smoke out all the time and I never used reverse.
maybe i'll find a track thats still racing them close to where I live (if i'm lucky).

Thanks

Well, Yes and no.... I'm not racing my E-Maxx anymore because I sold it. But I sold it to do a Electric conversion on a Revo, so I am racing an "EVO" in the E-Maxx class!

We still get a decent showing of Electric MT's there are 5 converted Revos & 6 E-Maxxes running pretty regular.

Tom:

Hi,

I had thought about doing that. it sounded cool and I like the Revo suspension setup. again I have no place to race. :( so we just run sedans when we get a chance.
My son is really fast with them and I just wrench for hm. I did build a 1/12th scale for me but I can never get it away from him either.
so we go to Josh's track when ever we get a change.

Thanks

You say "go to Josh's track".... you mean Josh Cyrul's?? CEFX raceway?

If so, that's only a 1/2 hr to 45 min from where I race my Maxx/EVO at.

Tom:

Hi,


Yes. we race there on Sundays (touring/1/12th) it's around 180 miles from our house. PM me the address where you race at and the times. and we'll try to make it down to run some dirt.

Thanks

Washtenaw R/C Raceway At the Washtenaw farm council grounds just South of Ann Arbor. Gotta warn ya that it is a long race day though. Average is about 160 - 180 entries, 20+ heats, 3 qualifiers and a main. Sign in closes at 9:45am and racing starts at 10:30am, usually ends at 11:30pm or so.

If you want directions (I don't know the physical address) let me know, the final 4 races of the season are 2/4 (this Saturday), 2/18, 3/4, & 3/11.

Dirtburners in Commerce Twp will race E-Maxxes if enough show up. Given proper notice there could be enough show up to run there.

I just bought my first E-Maxx a couple of weeks ago and right away I didn't like the way the battery leads were getting pinched. I took a dremmel and carved a little "U" at the edge of the battery tub, sanded the edges a bit and finally lined it with just a little elec. tape. It works great and the wires don't bind at all. Hope this helps...

Pinched wires can be a problem with stick packs, but not an issue with assembled side by side packs.

you can take the end caps off the batteries and reshrink them.also ,next time take the truck with you when you buy your packs,its hard to tell how they will fit without the truck.
JR @ STRONGSVILLE HOBBY SHOP

hi looking to buy e-maxx. any modes u think are need or any thing i need to know

Not really, Get it and have fun 1st. Then after you've run it you will be able to decide what hop ups if any you want for it.

thanks

battries
should i start with good boattries or save it for later and is 355 good for the hole packge.... from hobbytron

$355?? Depends on whats in the package & if it includes shipping. If it's for a brand new one with no extras it sounds a little high. If it's for a used one it is way high unless there's a ton of extra stuff with it.

Batteries is something you'll need to decide for yourself on. The better the battery the more the cost, but also the better the performance. I'd go with a mid range pack to start, get used to it, and if you decide you want more battery later get it.

or towerhobbies at $332 plus 1yearmember ship plus shipping

Eh, Check this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-E-Maxx-Monster-Truck-4x4-RTR-Combo-New-NO-RES_W0QQitemZ6035933485QQcategoryZ44029QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/TRAXXAS-E-MAXX-TRUCK-RTR-NEW-IN-BOX_W0QQitemZ6037128785QQcategoryZ44029QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

Or from another source:

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=TRX39068

or

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/629187.asp <---- Not a bad deal either!

thanks for the imfo.

7 cell batteries. where can i find them. i have found but they are 8.4 V.

All 7 cells are 8.4 V. The voltage is a multiple of how many cells are in the pack. 1.2v per cell multiplied by the amount of cells in the pack. 6 cells = 7.2v and 7 cells = 8.4.

thank's a lot.

well i thought i would post here. i knwo a few of the regular posters from other threads here. i finally got a E-maxx! :D a roller with esc and servos. it came with rpm claws, claw dogs tires, and a few rpm and MIP cvd goodies. think i got a good deal. and if i dont like it i can sell it back to the guy i got it from.

i have added some Tnx alloy clamping wheel hexes, going to direct solder the motors to the esc, and gear it up. no real big hop up plans. i want it as a my summer out door monster. will try and post up some pics soon-ish.

-peter-

Watch how much you gear it up, it can easily take a tooth (19 tooth pinions) but going above that may cause thermaling issues in the ESC when you run it as a basher (full packs as long as possible).

Also beware of water, the EVX does not like water AT ALL, I've had one quit when I ran thru a 1/4" puddle on the blacktop.

Watch how much you gear it up, it can easily take a tooth (19 tooth pinions) but going above that may cause thermaling issues in the ESC when you run it as a basher (full packs as long as possible).

Also beware of water, the EVX does not like water AT ALL, I've had one quit when I ran thru a 1/4" puddle on the blacktop.

thanks tom!

my truck came with 9t pinions!

would it be a problem to change to 48 pitch gears? i have seen one or two posts about people doing it, but no longer term report on how the gears hold up. and do you know of a stainless steel hex head screw kit for it as well?

i installed the rpm skids it came with. i like the way they look, but wonder why rpm didnt make them fully cover the center of the bottom of the chassis.


thanks again tom ;)

has anyone used the ofna diff lock silicone in there stock e-maxx diffs?m i want a slow diff action.

wow, long time since I've posted in here

would it be a problem to change to 48 pitch gears? i have seen one or two posts about people doing it, but no longer term report on how the gears hold up. and do you know of a stainless steel hex head screw kit for it as well?

i installed the rpm skids it came with. i like the way they look, but wonder why rpm didnt make them fully cover the center of the bottom of the chassis.

48 pitch gears wouldn't hold up the the abuse of a basher. if you are going to be racing it should be OK, but I would check for missing/ messed up teeth.

The reason RPM doesn't have full skid plates is because then junk would get trapped in the tub that is created by the skid plate and the chassis braces. If you absolutely want a full center skid, duratrax makes one.

I've heard of people using the highest wt. Ofna diff fluid (100,000, I think) with success. Any lower and it will escape out the unsealed diff.

9 tooth pinions? that's awfully small, did you mean 19 tooth?

I wouldn't change to 48 pitch, all you're doing is having fun, stick with the larger pitch for durability.

Do you have all 3 RPM skids? the center skid only covers from the front of the trans to the rear skidleaving the front open. 90% of the time your going forwards and a skid to cover the front would just trap debris around the steering linkage.

There are Hex screw kits available, it's up to you if you want to do it, they are very nice for replacing the screws where the chassis & bulkheads screw together.

As for slowing diff action, whatever you use is going to seep out eventually. Those diffs don't seal worth a darn. I never felt the need.

As for slowing diff action, whatever you use is going to seep out eventually. Those diffs don't seal worth a darn. I never felt the need.

Have you tried the ball-point pen spring trick, Tom? I had that in the rear when I had my maxx and it seemed to slow diff action a little.

i have the 100k and 150k diff lock, it leaked out of my tlt diffs.

and tom the E came with the robinson 9t pinions....the guy was going for A E-maxx crawler. and it has the 3 peice RPM skids. there is only like a one inch gap open! hehe

okay no to 48 pitch
ofna diff lock maybe


i wanted to do the same thing with my E as i did with the pede i got from chris.... run it as is and rebuild change as needed. but hte shocks are way to soft, it's geared way to low, and i amm going ot bust somehting with the dual spools in it. i was thining 20wt oil front and rear with 2 hole pistons... does that sound liek a good starting point? this new larger truck is ne wground for me! so i am a little lost :D


thanks again joe and tom!

Actually you might be pretty good with a spool in the back and a somewhat open diff in front. There's alot of people that run that way for fun running.

As for shock oil weights, I think 20wt is still too soft. It is a heavy truck & makes the suspension seem soft. I would go with 40wt for your application, when racing mine I used 80 & 60.

you tom it's funny you say that. couse i mentioned that on another forum. that the truck is bigger then it looks! ahh i am torn with diff or spool in the rear. as this will see mostly street and grass. the rear drivelines seemed to take a beating in my few 9t pinion high speed runs ;) and it has about a 8-9foot turnig radius!

the spool in back will help you get over stuff when you go out & really Bash like at construction sites and such where you can really have some F.U.N.!!!
I have no idea on how it effects turning radius though.

well my LHS was shorted the stock emaxx pinions. but i did realize that the clod and E use the same pitch gears! d'ohh so i threw on some 14t pinions and it was pretty fast compard to what it was. but is a bear to drive. i realized the masher 2ks are not glues to the rims. i would have done it last night but thinking i may need a harder foam for them first.

i did get the '72 chev lid for it though. my 50's panel had a bad reaction to the body reamer! and it pinches in to tight for the e-maxx chassis, in my opinion...alos got a new digital camera nd if i can get one18th to take a few more uploaded pics i will post a link.

thanks again for the help tom!

i do have a E-revo Q for you?
what is your batt/motor/esc setup?
i have a aussie friend who is tempted by the gorilamaxx stuff! :D

I use 12 cells (GP 3700s), Stock Titan Motors, and the EVX. 19 tooth pinions and 66 tooth spur.

well i have small update, i installed the stock gear diffs with ofna 120K diff lock. and i cleaned and refilled the shocks with some 40wt oil, and picked up some ultra firm proline foams. a one18th forum member is sending me some 17t pinions and i have again put 18&19's on order with the lhs.

and trying to figure out what color i should paint my '72 chevy body. i drive a 1973 gmc 3/4 ton red truck :D, my ultimate redneck ride :p. i love it. but red isn't my favorite color.....thinking silver or grey to go with the traxxas blue bits it has on it.

thanks again tom for all the help and info!

Can Anybody Tell Me Where To Get A Bomb-proof Race Bomb Chassis.the Website Does Not Work For Them. I Want An 1/8 Scale Chassis To Run A Hv-maxx And 2 Lipos In Truggy Class

ETOWNE, I found info here http://www.bomb-proofproducts.com/bomb.htm The site worked fine for me.

Says they are out of stock though & don't have a date when it will be.

thank you tommckay. got the phone #,call them in the morning

i was wondering what motors you guys have tried in the E-maxx. I was wonderign if anyone has tried the 45/55/65 trun lathe motors. I do know about the trinity Monster maxx motors but not interested in them.

Lathe motors could be ok if you're doing a crawler, but if you want to have fun (and speed), stick with the stock Titans or a similar 550 motor. The regular motors you use in R/Cs and lathes are made for 7.2v (maybe up to 9v) and really take a beating at 14.4v from the EVX requiring alot more maintenance. You can get stock Titans for $22 each at the hobby shop wich ain't bad, even cheaper off E-Bay now & then.

well, just broke my first parts:
2 shock caps
1 upper arm

are all upper arms for the E MAXX the same??

i think i want to try the lathes. i run one in my tlt and it throws my truck around on 7.2v then the titan does on 8.4......i know 14.4 would make a world of differance but i have a clod i can run the lathes in if i dont like the way it moves.

All E-maxx arms are the same on all 4 corners Uppers or lowers.


Peter! You gotta try the Titan motors with 14.4 volts!

i have. it scoots around nice, but i am spoiled by the brushless power of my stampede and my mini-lst! and the little jumping i have done with it this week it seems to need more speed. the motors looked like they were in good shape. all i know is i have been biten by the speed bug! :D

You won't solve the need for speed with Lathe motors, the Titans are 21 turn motors I believe. Have you run them on 14.4v with 19/66 gearing? The only way you'll get your speed fix if that ain't enough is to run 14 cells with the titans & flirt with thermalling the EVX periodically or get a brushless for it.

i changed the gearing to 66/18 yesterdayit was 70 or 72 18t. was a lot more fun. and right now i run 6 cell packs. i need to hold off on some of the little splurdge buys and go for batteries next time. hoping to hit a lhs that is closing tomarrow. they used to have a huge stock of fusion matcher 3700mah batts.

i know the lathes wont do what i want! but i have it set in my head i want to try it. and with the new Imex red rocks out i am trying to talk myself into a new chassis for the clod and i can use th emotors there. the chassis i wanted to use would force me at a 15-17inch WB, and i dont wnat to speend $200 on adapters, rims and tires..and i have a large collection of 2.2s already.

Hidden agendas.... I know about those!

so I drove a tmaxx when i was 12, and hated it. I swore to god I would never own one. I now own one. rofl. but anyways can somone give me any advice on adjusting the shift points? it wont shift into 2

Not on a T-Maxx, sorry.

what do you mean not on a t maxx. that was one of the things they made a great big deal out of was that they had adjustable 2 speed transmissions, that everything was internal