1) What is the "C" rating on a LiPo? Is it supposed to be the "punch" of a pack? I bought two LiPo packs at the 'Birds, both 3200mAH @ 20C.

2) Motors: Looking at either 17.5 or 21.5. Not sure what the popular classes are just yet, but there was almost 80 cars in 17.5 alone at the 'Birds. I don't want to run in a class that's only gonna have like 3 cars...yeah, I ran 19T Trucks at the 'Birds - only 8 trucks - but it was all I had at the time.

3) Good brushed/brushless ESC's? Novak GTB, LRP Sphere, Tekin...? I know I'm gonna get all kinds of responses...just what's your preference...?

Jimmy

ALL the brands are good BRUSHLESS, but with built in TIMING and Programable Timing, they use different gearing.

Using a brushless as a brushed too, some are a little easier to use than others.

The GTB is kind of a pain, but some of the other NOVAK's it's my understanding they are easier. LRP's are pretty easy to do w/ Brushed. Don't know about Tekin's.

If you are just getting into B/L racing, you can get some GREAT deals on USED stuff. A USED GTB will serve you well, and are generally about the best priced used units. Then save it for a spare/backup when you step up and buy a new one.

17.5 and 21.5 classes are a blast. We run them both at our LOCAL races (17.5 NASTRUCK and 21.5 CAR)

C rate is the ability of the Lipo to operate at a higher constant current. Higher C rate typically lowers the IR thus improves the average voltage. With lower IR the packs voltage won't drop as much under load.

21.5/lipo in Florida is diffently a popular class. You'll find it at HW, MTR, & Strickland. 17.5/lipo are mostly the old 19t class we use to have. As for as ESC, its your preference. You can't go wrong with any brand.

Higher C rate typically lowers the IR thus improves the average voltage. With lower IR the packs voltage won't drop as much under load.So my brand new 3200mAh/20C packs won't have as high a voltage as a 3200mAh/40C pack? Will they (the 20Cs) drop off faster during a run than a 40C, and in turn, reduce the life of the pack? Just asking questions, as I'm TOTALLY new to the LiPo and Brushless thing, and trying to do some research.

Jimmy,

We (The SWTour Racers) use the ORION 3200 20c, and this season we'll be using the ORION 3400 25c. I don't know what, if anything is different in those 2 packs, but all early testing has shown them to be virtually the same across the discharge board.

But, a 20c compared to a 40c you could/should see a little higher voltage from the 40c.

Since you are NEW to the LIPO Game..get out on the track and learn what you have...only upgrade it when you have got 90-100% of it's performance out of it.

Not knowing your driving abilities, if you are a "A" main guy...you'll be running the BIG STICKS if legal where you are racing pretty soon. If not, the life of service you'll get from the lower "C" pack will work you fine if taken care of for a long time. (We've got guys who ran 1 or 2 packs over a year now...and these were the 20c ORIONS)

Jimmy,

If I were you I would have picked up the Thunder Power 3200. There 40c 5000 is a bad mofo too.

As for the motor I would run 21.5 to get used to the speeds and setting up the car. 17.5's are quick!
Both of these classes will always have racers!!

For the brand of Motor...Trinity for sure. Plus you don't need to be a "team guy" to get the good stuff! (novak) Oh and there are far less "mis-labeled" motors.

For a speed control I gotta say LRP, yeah the customer service needs a little help but I gained a lap at every track I went to when I took out the novak and put the LRP in.

Last but not least make sure you take notes, write your set ups down!! I measure everything from the center and side shock length's, the track width, wheel base, ride height, ext...