So whats the secret to soldering power taps underneath track without melting the track? I read here someone used a "conductive" adhesive? Thats new to me? Is there such a thing and does it work well?

once again,greg braun's sitewww.hoslotcarracing.comis a cornerstone.he goes in depth on all aspects of wiring,construction,scenery,everything!it is the most comprehensive go to site i have seen.other guys might have other suggestions,but this site will tell you pretty much all you need to know.he does mention that when soldering track,be quick and accurate with a hot iron,so the solder joint joins fast as to not damage track due to prolonged heat exposure...hope this helps!

Solder power taps is no fun. But, if you have to do it, put the track on a damp sponge so that the sponge can absorb some of the heat from the plastic; it will hopefully aid in not melting the plastic. This is also a tip I found somewhere on Greg's site.

Joe

You need to be quick when you work, use rosin core solder and flux. Another key is to stay small with the wiring, I believe Greg recommends 16 or 18 gauge wire.

Here is what I did. I drilled a hole on each side of power rail and then cut a groove. I ran the wire through underside and over rail and back through other hole and then then twisted them tight. I then lightly beveled edges of cut to ensure there was not a snag for pickup shoes. It has worked fine. David

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/hotrailz/PowerTapA.jpg

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/hotrailz/PowerTapB.jpg

If interested, I have some Tomy power terminal track pcs. that were made by Greg. I had ordered two dozen for my Tomy layout & have a few new pieces that were not used, available for sale or trade. :)

I used Greg's method using a wet towel under the track for soldering.
I solder on the rail where the pinch marks are then i clean the area with flux cleaner and use a hot glue gun to go aroung the solder joint.
So far seems to hold.