If we limit the choice to racing cars with 'real' color schemes, and assume fitment is with the Tomy SGP clip, and that neither the clip or body are modified:

What is the best hard body for the G3?

Probably GTP cars... (I guess that's what they are called)..

Anyway:
Tenoras
Denso
Taka-Q
Minolta
Silk Cut Jag
Castrol Jag
Peugeot Esso #44
Peugeiot Esso #45
Sauber Mercedes (silver)
Circuit Board Mercedes
plus all of the 962s... and set of four lighted ones (which I think are Uuuggly)

I like the GT40s and I think there are 6 now, as well as the Cobras 6 of those now too I think... Not to forget the Chappys..

Only other way is the Formula cars. Tons of bodies, pretty cheap too.

Good luck- Marc and Marcus...

I don't know what the best one is but the Tomy GT40 is hard to beat in terms of fitment, raceability, and availability of the body shell. That would be my first choice. The later Tomy GTPs are very nice too, with the bodies in the 4 Way Split being quite available. The earlier Tomy EX series GTPs fit wonderfully, especially the Toyotas, but they are harder to find and more precious as collectibles. The Dash Racing Camaro is a good fit as well.

Obviously handling is a factor.

Do any or all of the suitable bodies use the longer wheelbase?

Another option, again the long wheelbase - If I used the buddy clip so that Tyco pan bodies can be used, does that open up some viable options.

Porsche 908? Porsche 962? etc

The chappy is HEAVY ! WEIGH IT

Tyco is fine but usually not real racer friendly. The Tomy GTPs are low slung and although they have wings, the handling is actually very good. I've never raced the GT40s or chappys by Tomy but the Cobra handled pretty well so I can only assume. Truthfully I am not a big fan of the Chappy's and if they are heavy.. well...

The 908 by Tyco is not a bad body, but I have never run a Tyco on a G+ or G3 , or used the clip for that matter. The 962 by Tyco is long and fishtales badly with a 440x2 chassis, maybe the G3 chassis will settle it down some.

Other than the 962s by Tyco (and limited to 4 bodies, except for the non-Us releases) they can get expensive.

Handling is a factor for sure, but so is having a body that will survive a hard wall shot without disengaging from the chassis or ending up askew and rubbing the tires. That is a very important factor as well and all of the bodies I've mentioned are a nice snug fit on the Tomy SG+ and Tomy SRT chassis. The JL #94 stock car is nice and light but it does not fit securely and tends to skew even in a light wreck, leaving you at the mercy of a decathumbed marshal. Some of the JL F&F tuners, like the Mazda, fit very well on the Tomy chassis and look great. The wing adds a bit of weight to the rear but it's still nothing like the rear bias that some of the vintage AFX cars have, like the 512M and the 917-30, both of which were modeled a bit too long and thin compared to the real car. The AFX Porsche 962 is fairly light but it has a lot of junk in the trunk.

Here's the weigh-in:

Tomy GT40 (regular): 3.65 g
Tomy Silk Cut Jaguar: 4.36 g
Tomy Castrol Jaguar: 4.53 g
Tomy Tenoras Toyota: 4.33 g
Tomy GTP Minolta Toyota: 4.34 g
Tomy Cobra Daytona: 5.46 g
Tomy Chaparrel: 5.86 g
Tomy Porsche 962: 4.62 g
Dash Racing Camaro: 4.24 g
JL Mazda RX7: 5.18 g
JL #94 Stock Car: 3.86 g

I think you can see why my top pick was the Tomy/RaceMasters GT40 for a GT class and the Dash Racing Camaro for TransAm.

Handling is a factor for sure, but so is having a body that will survive a hard wall shot without disengaging from the chassis or ending up askew and rubbing the tires. That is a very important factor as well and all of the bodies I've mentioned are a nice snug fit on the Tomy SG+ and Tomy SRT chassis. The JL #94 stock car is nice and light but it does not fit securely and tends to skew even in a light wreck, leaving you at the mercy of a decathumbed marshal. Some of the JL F&F tuners, like the Mazda, fit very well on the Tomy chassis and look great. The wing adds a bit of weight to the rear but it's still nothing like the rear bias that some of the vintage AFX cars have, like the 512M and the 917-30, both of which were modeled a bit too long and thin compared to the real car. The AFX Porsche 962 is fairly light but it has a lot of junk in the trunk.

Here's the weigh-in:

Tomy GT40 (regular): 3.65 g
Tomy Silk Cut Jaguar: 4.36 g
Tomy Castrol Jaguar: 4.53 g
Tomy Tenoras Toyota: 4.33 g
Tomy GTP Minolta Toyota: 4.34 g
Tomy Cobra Daytona: 5.46 g
Tomy Chaparrel: 5.86 g
Tomy Porsche 962: 4.62 g
Dash Racing Camaro: 4.24 g
JL Mazda RX7: 5.18 g
JL #94 Stock Car: 3.86 g

I think you can see why my top pick was the Tomy/RaceMasters GT40 for a GT class and the Dash Racing Camaro for TransAm.

Great research Too,

Wow, that's amazing! The Tomy GT40 weighs less then #84 JL (Monte Carlo) stock car! I'll have try one. I pretty much dismissed all of the modern Tomy bodies because the Cobra Daytona I have is such a pig! And, the Porsche 962 isn't that great either. "Tomy GT40 (regular): 3.65 g" regular.. meaning the older non-clear windows?

Curious to know how the AW GT40 and AW Racing Camaro compare weight wise? They might be cheaper alterrnatives.. Although, the ride hieght on the AW camaro does appear a bit higher then the orignal AFX camaros I have. I'll weight them tonight and report back my findings.

-Robbie

Fantastic post as usual AfxToo.

Isn't the AW body a Ford GT, a different body altogether?

Yes, I was referring to the non-clear version of the GT40.

The Aurora AFX Camaro uses stand-offs inside the body to get the proper fit on the chassis. The body mounting tabs on the Aurora do not have an upper detent because the standoffs keep the chassis and body aligned vertically. The standoffs are aligned with specific parts of the A/FX and Magnatraction chassis geometry. This is a light body but comes off fairly easily in a wreck of the magnitude you'll see with magnet cars.

The AWXT Camaro has both upper and lower detents on the body mounting tabs but also uses standoffs that are part of the body in the front and the window glass in the rear. Again, these assume an XT/Magnatraction geometry chassis is there to line up correctly. However, these standoffs can be removed to mount a Tomy chassis. The ride height will be improved versus the stock ride, but it still is neither as nice fitting nor as sturdy as the Dash Racing Camaro.

The AW Ford GT has pickup shoe interference problems due to the headlight glass insert. I've never tried to modify the insert to fit a Tomy chassis. The Tomy chassis definitely fits, so it should be an easy task. I really like the AW Ford GT for what it is, a nice rendition of the street car that Ford made to celebrate one of its heritage race cars. However, once the Tomy GT40 arrived on the scene the desire to use the AW street version as a race body went away. If I had a stash of the AW Ford GTs I might try to race prep some of them, but yes, they are distinctly different than the Tomy GT40s.

afxtoo,yer right on the afx 512's,i have two i am trying to get running well,and man they are ass heavy!they like to spin out,no matter how much i clean my track/tires...they sure look pretty though!lol!

Fantastic post as usual AfxToo.

Isn't the AW body a Ford GT, a different body altogether?

:o I didn't realize there was a difference. Might need to rearch my racing car history. (I wasn't alive when these cars were racing)

Thanks.

:o I didn't realize there was a difference. Might need to rearch my racing car history. (I wasn't alive when these cars were racing)

Thanks.

The Tomy "Ford GT40" is actually the 1966 Ford GT40 MKII that captured Ford's first Le Mans win (the black/silver McLaren/Amon #2). This car had a 427 Ford engine. The old Aurora Ford GT captures the look of the original 1964 car which had a 289 engine. The AW Ford GT is the 2005 high performance street car that Ford introduced in 2005.

:drunk::hat::freak::dude:

Tried the new GT40 today, and the Tyco F40, both are good.

I race hardbodies and anyone who has raced against me will tell you my hard body set up on G3's and T1's kick butt and hold up very well under very hard racing conditions. They have exceptional handling and aerodynamic capabilities........some examples:Part 1

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Here are a few more examples......

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The White generation 2 F & F Surpa is the real sleeper out of the AW bunch...it had a different front end design and lower roof line than the first generation, it was also shorter, wider and much lighter than the first generation JL Supras..if it was available in 2005, I would have used it instead of the RX-7 for the S.H.O.R.S. Finals.....

JLM Racing, you've got a really sweet looking stable of cars. It must be pretty fun to see lexan body runners' faces when your "heavy" hard body blows by. BTW, thanks for the tip on the 2nd generation super Supra!

:drunk::hat::freak::dude:

Dude they hate me......made me wear a Super stock around my neck like a Pork Chop........

The Tyco F-40 is just over 3.1 grams and it scoots.....

Tomy made an early 80's Camaro that is also very light and worth consideration. One is the red #88 with Auto Tech sponsorship.
(edit: put it on the scale and it came in at 4.1g... I remembered it as being lighter)

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

Tomy made an early 80's Camaro that is also very light and worth consideration. One is the red #88 with Auto Tech sponsorship.
(edit: put it on the scale and it came in at 4.1g... I remembered it as being lighter)

Gary
AKA LeeRoy98

And the other is a Green, white and black.......it sat high and was kinda long..it was light but had a high CG...you had to lower the body for it to be affective in high speed racing....it would be perfect for running on a G-Jet....

Yo!

JLM, Nice low stance on your cars! :thumbsup: Is the red #8 Camaro an
AW body on G3 chassis? Any tips for lowering Tomy, AW or Tyco bodies? ;)

JLM, Nice low stance on your cars! :thumbsup: Is the red #8 Camaro an
AW body on G3 chassis? Any tips for lowering Tomy, AW or Tyco bodies? ;)

The process is not hard but requires a steady hand and some spec rotary tools...

Tomy and AW (Not including the Super 3 bodies) can be done the same way see below...you want to allow the body clip to float up and down. The put a generous dab of GOO on the body clip ends and set the body where you want it. Let cure for 24 hours. Also your chassis should have a tall tire set up, that way you will be able to use the set up with multible tire heights.

Tycos are a little different I get custom body mounts and modifiy them.....

And yes the red Camero is on a G3 chassis....


Yo!

Forgot to add the Tomy 78 Trans Am are great handeling bodies in stock or "lowered" positions.......check out my white Formula Firebird in action..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSqHtvn_CM8

For Dyno........any more questions.....just ask....



Yo!

JLM, Thanks for info. I have those Dremel tools & will give a body a try. :)

Dyno start with a beater so if you slip you won't be upset.....

Yo!

JLM, Thanks for tip. :thumbsup: Order of priorities will be fingers 1st and
body 2nd. ;)