Just wondering if these are like the Magnum 440's. They look similar, just thinking of getting a couple for the kids to have some fun with.

They are like the 440 X2s with the wide pan chassis. They run very well.

Russ

Cool, Thanks, Dave

Just to be sure, we are talking about the HPX2 and not the HP-2.

As far as I know, the HPX2 only came on two cars in a recent Mattel set - the Dodge Charger and Plymouth Superbird. As stated, they look much like a 400-X2.

You will notice there is a different size rear wheel hub on each car, so finding replacement tires may be a problem. Be aware that the two cars use different rear wheels from each other! Swapping out the rear may also be a problem; on the Charger, the traction magnets extend a little farther below the chassis because of the size of the rear tires. Because of the diameter of the rear wheel, the unmodified chassis may not fit under some other bodies. It does however look pretty sharp under the Hummer and the Porshe Carrera.

Joe

Did they use the 3-ohm armature?

I have not paid full attention so I don't really know what cars that arm was used in, or why.

Did they use the 3-ohm armature?

I have not paid full attention so I don't really know what cars that arm was used in, or why.

I believe the set with the Charger/Superbird was the last electric race set Mattel produced. I also believe that the low ohm armature (I think it's 4 ohm, not 3 ohm) was only found in subsequent battery sets. So my guess would be that the HPX2 does not have the 4 ohm armature.

Joe

the HPx2 does have the 3.5 ohm arms

I really need to get one of these arms. They are legal in ProMod, and not so in F1, so I need to have one to hand for both reasons (to use and to help tech).

Can anybody hook me up?

Just a wild guess, but I'd bet the low resistance arms in these are there so the cars will run decently on battery powered home sets. Put some heavy magnets in them and I suspect they will soon be crossing over into the light, leaving a smokey trail behind.

Yeah, the unique wheel sizes per car is an oddity of the chassis from the Mopar set. I put them under a couple of Tyco tractor trailer bodies.

Well, I gotta say, we put some old curve hugger bodies on them, broke them in, and all of them are pretty even, they slide around the turns, and run really great. Stock is just fine for us. Dave:thumbsup:

Montoya--- I picked up some of the 3$ rolling chassis with the 3.7 ohm arms in the cars. I can send you one if you'd like. Just PM me with details. Also I have run these arms in some other experimental cars. They are fast and hold up well. They are very similar to the 6 ohm ones we are used to, but have a red ring behind the com. I think they are from the same company that makes the arms (6.0) for the mega -G. Does anyone have the name of that new arm company?

Thanks Neo - PM on the way Sir!

Just be aware that the $3 Mattel chassis is not the HPX2, it is a widepan 440-X2 (apparently) designed to run on 4 D batteries (6 volts).

Also be aware that the $3 Mattel chassis has the plastic melting tires, so don't let those tires sit on your track or a plastic shelf.

Joe

All the $3 mattel chassis I have are the HPX2(molded on the side of the chassis) , They are for the battery sets but run great on 18 volts, an yes they do have the plastic melting tires
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_1108.jpg

It is just the arm I want to try/see.

Intesting factoid on this Chassis.. I went racing a few weeks ago in the tyco class all i had was a couple of these in my pit box ( I didn't know what we raced..) I race against some very fast guys and Rich lol.. sorry Rich...I placed 5th out of 12 cars changed the tires took the straightest looking one I had tweeks the shoes.. so ya it will run on 18 volts no problem.. BUT next time i was down I drove the same car and in my 5th heat I sounded like a 16 year olds first car, it was ground up and done.. lol.. not so much a arm problem as cheap gears..

Coach another thing I noticed is the "gear saver" so they call it(didn't help in your case it seems) are NOT put on straight. A couple I have they wobble worse then the RRR wheels an the axles are splined( think that's the word I want) to hold the rims on, front an back are this way. so basically they are junk if you want to replace the rims

Coach another thing I noticed is the "gear saver" so they call it(didn't help in your case it seems) are NOT put on straight. A couple I have they wobble worse then the RRR wheels an the axles are splined( think that's the word I want) to hold the rims on, front an back are this way. so basically they are junk if you want to replace the rims

I replaced the whole rear end with old 440 x2 rear ends. hopefully this will cure my exploding gear problems.. lol.. I also found a 4 dot today so Carol may run this Matell and I'll try and run with Rich.. (Btw Rich's tycos are VERY fast and stable, I just like to bug him lol)


Dave

I replaced the whole rear end with old 440 x2 rear ends. hopefully this will cure my exploding gear problems.. lol.. I also found a 4 dot today so Carol may run this Matell and I'll try and run with Rich.. (Btw Rich's tycos are VERY fast and stable, I just like to bug him lol)


Dave

This a stock class??? If so swap one traction mag(in the old tyco) with the new mattel traction mag ( new mag should go on the side the gear sits) so you have opposite polarity mags. Gives a stock chassis a little more stick. An the new mattel motor mags are a little stronger as well

All the $3 mattel chassis I have are the HPX2(molded on the side of the chassis)

I had not noticed that, but you are correct. My $3 chassis also say HPX2. I guess that is the way to tell whether it was designed for electric (440-X2) or battery (HPX2) power.

Joe

This a stock class???

That's what I said. Thanks for the compliments Coach. When we first started this class it was stock, no mods. Well, that didn't last long. Stock included anything that was produced over the entire life of 440x2s. So, some guy found an article online about Tyco racing and tuning, so everyone started searching for the right markings on different molded parts and different arms, and magnets. Next thing you know, guys are shaving mounts off of Lifelike bodies to mount on Tyco pan chassis, using Predator gears, and sanding the imperfections off of the bottom of the chassis so you can put smaller tires on. The favorite body style seems to be the early nineties Pontiac Grand Prix with the full air dam. I went from running up front, to running mid pack. That's all fine and dandy if I was getting beat by stock Tycos, but all the modifieds are running up front. So, I pull out a couple of old narrow chassis Tyco 440x2s. These are bone stock, with the plastic guard still over the motor. Now, there are only 2 Tyco Nascar Bodies which will run on this chassis, the 77 Olds Cutlass, and the 81 Buick Regal. The guys saw me testing them and agreed that I would be at a disadvantage running those bodies. I ran the Cutlass. Oh, how they were wrong. Toward the end of the race, as the laps started to add up, the whining started. "He's running a NARROW chassis!". I said, "So what, mine is STOCK." I was later told that there was a bunch of complaints about me running a narrow chassis, and that a pan chassis could never run with a narrow chassis, therefore, I was at an advantage {cheating}. BOX STOCK!!!!!! The narrow chassis has the SAME motors that the pan chassis has. The narrow chassis has a huge disadvantage; in a hard crash, the bulkheads pop loose. You have to take the body off to fix this and probably re-install the shoes. How much time do you lose? Well, I lost at least ten laps when it happened to me, and I still placed second, fifteen laps out of first. For this reason, the pan chassis was made out of the stiffer black plastic.

So what do yall think? Can a pan chassis run with a narrow chassis?

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars :thumbsup::thumbsup:

So what do yall think? Can a pan chassis run with a narrow chassis?

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars :thumbsup::thumbsup:

On a very rare occasion it can, but it don't happen often, Narrow definitely has the advantage. 2 dot Malaysia, check mark front bulkhead an I think the 4 dot rear is the ticket

Even if guys are using these bulk heads in pan chassis?

I found this on a site few years back, seems the site is no longer there but I saved it to a word doc if anyone wants a copy. It has pics as well in the doc

Building The Tyco 440 X2 - In laymen's terms
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– ––––––––
By Milt "Raceaslot" Surratt


So....., you’ve decided that you want to try your hand at racing an HO car with the guys, but you have A) a limited budget and no experience.You could have someone else build the car for you, but it wouldn’t feel right if you ever did well, because it was just someone else’s car.
What if I told you that you could build a car yourself, a competent, competitive Super Stock car without spending a lot of money, and that it would be fairly easy? I will show how, in easy, simple to follow step by step instructions, you can build your own car, and be competitive (as long as you can drive...I can’t help you with that).
Based on generally accepted rules and regulations - SCHOR - HOPRA (yours may be different), along with some “expert” advice on what to look for to get the most from off-the-shelf parts, we will build a legal Tyco (err..um..uh.. Mattel) 440X2 super stock race car.
Step one is, of course, to get a car or a chassis. You can do this a number of ways, any one of which is acceptable, but some may be better than others.
• 1) You could just go buy a brand new, complete 440X2 with a pretty body. This will get you mixed results. First, you might not get the “right” chassis, which I will explain later. Second, a lot of the parts on a shelf car will not be used in a super stocker (such as that pretty body), and you may find this to end up being an additional expense not needed.
• 2) You could buy a “roller” - a chassis only with an arm, magnets, stock axles and tires and such. Again, this is extra money spent on parts not used, but at least you can pick the “right” chassis.
• 3) Or you could buy a “prepped” chassis from one of the many “builders” out there. This type of chassis comes without a motor or magnets or axles. It is just a chassis, but it will have the front shoe hangers pinned (to guard against breakage) and will have pin tubes properly mounted for attaching a Lexan body. This will also allow you to acquire the “proper” front and rear bulkheads.
OK, what is this guy talking about, the “right” chassis and the “proper” bulkheads? Over the years, Tyco has produced many variants of the typical 440-X2 slot car. The chassis all look similar, but there have been slight differences in the molds, which creates subtle changes to the handling and speed characteristics of the car. The most common type out there now is a “pan” chassis, which you DO NOT want. (Unless you plan on racing at Shaunadega) These "pan" chassis are most of the NASCAR type bodies, and are easily spotted by the dark black color, and the wide, black pans spread out on each side underneath the car.
The more common chassis for racing purposes is the narrow type, gray chassis. These are mounted under most of the late model Corvette bodies (you know, the blue one) and the Lamborghini bodies, to name but a few.
Here is where it gets real interesting! Among the narrow chassis made over the years, you will find different series that you need to look for! The Malaysia chassis is out there, with 1 or 2 dots imprinted on the bottom back edge. Some also have no dots. (1)
The other type of chassis, which is used by most racers, is the Hong Kong chassis. These are numbered Tyco HK 3 and Tyco HK 4, and you will find this printed directly behind and in front of the right front wheel, on the right side of the chassis. If it just has Hong Kong printed up high on the side of the chassis, it’s not the same.
**Since I originally wrote this article for HOUSA in 1998, there have been some changes to the Tyco narrow chassis. There are now a couple new variants that say "Mattel" or "China" on the side of the chassis instead of Hong Kong. No reasearchhas been done as far as I know on what this means to racers, or my theories. And there's more - read on!!**
Confused? Wait, there’s more! The bulkheads are even MORE important than the chassis! First, the front bulkhead. Look on the front of the bulkhead, directly above the endbell portion where the armature comes through. Up there you will see one of the following: nothing (toss it), 3 little dots (toss it), 4 little dots (if you must use this go ahead), or....... a large check mark. (2)

1. 2.

3.
This is the one, the bomb, the big cahuna, you get the picture. This is so important, because this is the one that is more properly aligned to allow the arm to turn freely, and this bulkhead also allows you to run lower front tires, not to mention the fact that it allows the motor magnets to sit slightly lower in the chassis!
**Again, since the time of my original article, there is a new rear bulkhead out there, without the wide bottom portion that has traditionally held the magnet in place. This is completely new territory, as Rick Burneson wrote in HO World.**
Second, the rear bulkhead. Same scenario, different spot. Look at the very bottom on the back end of the rear bulkhead for the following: 3 dots (use this with a HK 4 chassis), 4 dots (a HK 3 chassis or Malaysia 2 dot) or nothing (use this with a Malaysia 2 dot as an alternative). (3)
You can experiment with other combinations, but I find that these combos typically pay off. What you are looking for, again, is proper alignment and getting the magnets as low as possible (in this case the traction magnets). This is serious stuff, boys and girls! The proper choice of bulkhead and chassis can make or break a good race car from the start.
Next step is to “pin” the pickups on the car, if you bought a bare chassis. This is tedious and time consuming, but if you don’t do it, you could wind up losing a race because of an off, by breaking one of the tabs that hold the pick-up shoe on the car (read: no-go).
You should practice this next step on a pile chassis before you go drilling holes in your prized possession. Get yourself a pin vise and number drill bits. (4) These are found at just about any hardware or hobby store for less than $10. Also, get some .020 piano wire (.25 cents) and, using a #76 bit (or thereabouts), carefully align the drill to the end of one shoe hanger. Find the very center, and begin to drill slowly into the tip of the hanger.
It's very important that you turn the chassis different (5) angles, so that you maintain a straight attack into the hanger! Do not go too fast, as consistency and alignment is what you are looking for. Continue to drill into the hanger till you are actually drilling into the chassis, about 1/4 inch.
After smoothing one end of the piano wire, dab a little super glue on the end of the wire and stick this end into the drilled hole until it bottoms out into the chassis. At this point, break the remaining wire off with dikes, and use a Dremel or similar tool to bring the edge smooth and flush with the end of the hanger. Do the other side the same way and you now have a “bulletproof” front end.
4.
5.

Next, you will want to attach the pin tubes for mounting (6) your Lexan body. If you plan on racing multiple cars, and you don’t want to have a separate body for each car, you might want to find someone that has a chassis “jig” for drilling these holes in the same spot on each chassis. Otherwise, proceed on, maestro.
Pick your spot. The tubes on this chassis are about as far apart as you can put them on a Tyco, this helps to keep the body from rocking. Using a #62 (.038) bit, drill carefully and slowly into the points you have picked for the tubes. (7) Pay close attention to the mounting of the front, so it will not be in conflict with the brush tubes or pick-up shoes on the inside of the chassis!
Buy, beg, borrow (but don’t steal) a set of THREADED aluminum body tubes. Don’t use the flanged kind, as they just will not stay in the hole, no matter what kind of gorilla snot glue you try. Thread these in by using your pin vise (not too tight around the aluminum, as it will bend) until they seat nicely and flush with the inside of the chassis. If you did it correctly it should look kinda like the picture to the right.
Now on to the "Go" stuff! We must have POWWERRR (har, har). Many guys out there sell “hand picked” armatures. Some of these are really good, and some are not. So what I do is to buy a bunch of cheap arms and go through them until I find one that is balanced (naturally, of course - anything else would be cheating).
7.
6.


Continued


How do you find a balanced arm? One way is to take a couple of double edge razor blades and mount them into a firm piece of flat plastic or wood, or clay. Make sure that both edges are parallel and the same distance apart. Set your new arm on the two edges and see if it rolls freely, or begins to want to come to rest, always at the same spot. If this happens, you might as well throw it away, as balancing an armature in any way is usually illegal. Continue until you find an armature that has the best roll to it. This will be your race motor. If you want to be real scientific about it, you can also OHM the armature. (TT1, below right) This can give you a reading, based on resistance, of how well the armature will perform (if balanced). This is relative, as a lower number means less resistance i.e. better rpm, but could also mean that the arm will never reach it’s optimum rpm and will therefore feel sluggish. Putting a very tall gear on the car (7/23 or even 7/24) helps, but this can be an actual disadvantage if your car tends to be set up to run low, because the taller gears can physically touch the track (not a good thing!).
Now that you have found the “perfect” armature, you really need “perfect” magnets. The ones that came with that 440X2 you bought back in 1988 probably won’t be very effective, as magnets lose strength from many factors, including heat, use, dropping, etc. It is best if you buy a matched set from someone. This just means that some smart lug-nut gear head with a degree and a gauss meter has checked the power of the magnets (motors and tractions) to find a set with a high and matched gauss reading. This can also be attained by having the magnets zapped by that self same lug-nut. Zapping of magnets (if it is even allowed in your racing circle) is a good way to bring power back to used magnets, but they can never be zapped to a power greater than their original state, and usually won’t ever get completely back to their highest rating.
The motor magnets should be mounted in the reverse of a stock 440-X2, with the white topped magnet on the right side (top) of the car. The only confirmed reason I know of that this is usually done, is so you can run the same axle set on all your Tycos and Tomys, although some claim that they run better that direction (impossible, because there is 0 degrees of advance on a Tyco stock arm).
You will need the following items to complete the building of the motor portion of your super stocker: (8)
Stock brush barrels
Stock brushes or "80%" brushes
(stay away from silver brushes on a stocker,
as they tend to "coat" the commutator)
Hardened or heat treated .006 brush springs
(On-Track - Wizard - BSRT - Slottech, etc.)
Double coil pick-up shoe springs
(On-Track - Wizard - BSRT - Slottech, etc.)
Extended flat pick-up shoes (see above)
Phenolic or nylon arm spacers

8.
TT1
Begin by inserting one nylon spacer on the commutator end of the armature shaft, than insert this end into the front bulkhead (it won’t run the other way!) Slip your motor magnets into the holders on the bulkhead and insert another spacer onto the rear of the shaft. Now insert the rear bulkhead onto the armature shaft. Holding the assembly so it is tight and square, push the armature back and forth to see if there is a lot of slop. If there is, put another spacer on the rear of the arm and try again. If it feels too tight, remove the spacer you put on originally, and try to find a thinner one. Keep in mind two things: One - you want to make sure the brushes align with the center of the commutator. Two - you want to keep the armature "centered" with the magnets, or as close to center as possible. Once you get it right (enough movement that you can feel it but not see it) you are ready to put the brush assemblies onto the front bulkhead.
Begin by taking one of the brushes and rolling it with your finger on a flat piece of white writing paper. This removes any oxidization from the brush and helps contact and movement inside the brush barrel. Take one of the brush springs and insert it into the barrel, followed by the flat end of the brush. Be careful here that the brush stays in the barrel and doesn’t pop back out and land in your wife's coffee cup. Gingerly tip the brush end of the barrel into the hole on the side of the bulkhead (with the armature still in place or a brush radius tool) and push it in until it is snug as a bug. Now do the other side. If you wish to use a brush radius tool go ahead, otherwise, you can also break in a stock armature with low power for about 15 or 20 minutes. Now that you have both sets of brushes in place, attach the pick-up shoe springs to the bulkhead. A trick here on the double springs is to make a 45 degree bend inwards on the outside top wire of each shoe. This little bend will keep the tip of the spring from slipping between the chassis and bulkhead, which can be a major pain in the keister.
Here is the trickiest part by far about putting together a Tyco slot car. You need to take the entire assembly you just built and pop it into the chassis, arm, magnets, brushes, barrels and shoe springs, the whole darned thing. It can be very frustrating (especially if you try to do it from the top, read: impossible). Turn the chassis over and set the entire assembly on top of it. Watching the shoe springs, begin to spread the chassis apart slightly to accept the front bulkhead first, than the back. Once you get the bottom tabs of both bulkheads into the proper alignment, start to push the assembly down the rest of the way, again keeping a keen eye on the end wires of those shoe springs, as they can be easily jammed and bent. Keep trying until everything locks in place, then gently pry the back section just enough on one side to get the traction magnet through the hole and pop it into place.

By the way, the traction magnets are reversible and you should put the one that opposes the motor magnet on that same side of the car. This helps to get the best field of down force around the car (no......really.....I’m not making this stuff up).
9.

Now you have just to insert the pick-up shoes into the springs and snap them over your pinned hangers and you should be able to try it to see if it at least runs!Try not to give a bunch a throttle all at once until you have broken the commutator in. And you really should oil it first!
Next you need a pinion, a stock one will do. A hardened steel axle works great, but you can get away with a stock one for now. Mount some good silicones (your choice) and a 20, 21 or 22 tooth spur gear (depending on the car, the track and your driving style) and snap the axle in place. You may want one thin spacer between the gear and the chassis, depending on the brand of gear you prefer to run.
For the fronts, if your club allows, you should get yourself (9) a good set of independent front wheels and narrow, slip on front tires. These have better rolling resistance than stock tires and allow you to change tire height at will.
For the rears, many brands of "Applied Silicone" tires exist, the brand is up to you. BSRT makes a fine set of narrow, white tires which seem to work best for me, but Wizzard, Legend, Slottech, Quicker and others make fine tires also. It all depends on your driving style and the type of track and time of day.
Your next step is to run the car around a track, checking for how the shoes are contacting the rail surface (see below) and how much spring pressure you have to adjust out, and how well the car runs and handles, which will indicate whether you need to go up (you can hear the car scraping the track and it seems to “skate” out of the slot) or down (the car just sails out of the slot or the back end acts like a Tjet).
The rest is up to you, but you should now have a car that is more than capable on the track, depending mostly on set-up and driving style. Now for some Tyco tuning and set-up tips.
The Tyco 440x2 is one of the least understood cars out there. It is difficult to find just the right set-up to make the 440x2 go fast and turn left. Some of it has to do with the magnets (down force), and some has to do with its height, which seems to put a lot more of the weight up high, as opposed to Tomy G+ cars and Life-Likes, which both have a lower center of gravity and also have more magnet down force.

There are numerous things that have to be done to a Tyco car to make it handle and give it the necessary speed to win races and I will touch on a few of them. If you are racing on plastic track of any brand, the first thing you will need to do on a Tyco car is to loosen the pickup shoe tension. By doing this, you will allow the skis to “float” on the sometimes rough surface of a typical plastic track. Again, finding the right balance between too little and too much is a lot like trying to pass a football over the defense, and directly into the hands of your receiver, thirty yards down field in the end zone. (Well, maybe not that bad, but you get the point). Adjust your double springs from the top of the car. If you need less tension (drink less coffee) no, that's not it. If you need less tension, push the end of the wire spring forward and down, only slightly and a little at a time. If you feel you need more shoe pressure, you need to grab the end of the wire spring with a pair of small needle nose, and pull up on both sides, thereby increasing the tension at the shoe.

Adjust your skis for maximum performance. This is an EXTREMELY important part of keeping the power flowing and the handling going. (Hey, that rhymes!)

You need to check your new ski’s as soon as you put them on. Run a couple laps, pick up the car and check the wear to see if it is even. There should be an straight line all the way from front to back on the ski. If not, you need to adjust them. On a Tyco car, it is fairly simple...take a pair of small, flat bladed pliers or tweezers, and slide them between the ski and the bottom of the chassis at the back bend of the shoe. Bend the shoe according to where the rail line shows up on the shoe. (TT2)

Tomy cars are a little different (and more difficult) because you need to remove the shoe to adjust it. This time you need needle nose pliers at the back curve. Bend the curve forward for less contact at the back of the ski, and back for more contact. (TT3)

You will have to learn this one by trial and error, but with determination, consternation, and a little bit of abrogation (that means to replace, or revoke), you just might get it.

Even if guys are using these bulk heads in pan chassis?

Ive tried it, an the narrow still has the advantage. But you get lucky every now an then an get a pan that will give the narrow a good run for its money an can beat it at times, but for some reason the narrow almost always has the advantage. This is just what I have found, others may have had different results

Another little tip I do, is ream the bulkhead holes out a tad. I use a round pointed file an ream JUST the side of the bulkhead the armature sits on, Kinda taper the hole. less friction this way

Well, I figured with the bodies available for the narrow chassis, that that would even the odds a little. I have a pan chassis that ran faster lap times than both of the narrow chassis I was testing, but it just had the worst racing luck. I ran it in 2 races and couldn't stay out of a wreck or a corner marshal's thumb to save my life.

Ill tell you something else about these HPx2s: The rims are garbage. The splined rear axles are a bad enough idea, but the rears are especially prone to cracking right on the axle, even if you dont try to remove them. Ive had to junk like 4 of these rims just this weekend, off of cars that are just sitting in my box just for the collection these only got run a few times.

I did swap one of these arms into a curvhugger brass motor block, chopped down the rear of the pinion and it runs REAL well though...

Well, I figured with the bodies available for the narrow chassis, that that would even the odds a little. I have a pan chassis that ran faster lap times than both of the narrow chassis I was testing, but it just had the worst racing luck. I ran it in 2 races and couldn't stay out of a wreck or a corner marshal's thumb to save my life.

I like my pans, its about all we run. If you do get into the narrow chassis an can run any full bodies use the lambo BUT make it a floating body by dremeling the rear side seats down. Ill post a pic to show you what I am talking about in a few when I get the camera out

Ill tell you something else about these HPx2s: The rims are garbage. The splined rear axles are a bad enough idea, but the rears are especially prone to cracking right on the axle, even if you dont try to remove them. Ive had to junk like 4 of these rims just this weekend, off of cars that are just sitting in my box just for the collection these only got run a few times.

I did swap one of these arms into a curvhugger brass motor block, chopped down the rear of the pinion and it runs REAL well though...

Best thing I found for the HPX2 is strip them down, sell the chassis, rims an axle sets an tires an keep the rest. all the rest of the parts should be free after selling the other parts. Free arms, brushes, brush springs, guild pins, pickups an pickup springs. can never have to many of those parts

The 2 cars on the right I bought from a guy that had "Flash" aka Paul Reeves build when he lived around here. As you can see if you look close compared to the body on the left the side mounting seats are gone, This allows the body to "float" in the corners. These are a couple of the fastest complete stock cars I have seen an handle very good for stock

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_1110.jpg

If they will let you lower the bodies, cut the bottom T flap mount off, shave the upright body mount, then reglue a flap. The floating body does seem faster. These were narrow chassis chrome anniversary Buicks I lowered several years ago. They've been run hard, so there'er not too pretty, but still a blast to run!!! RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/004-10.jpg