The more I read about castor the more I don't understand its real effect on the cars handling on the track. Could anybody explain it in a way that is concise and easy to apply to my car (turn in, turn off, scrub, speed etc)?

Thanks,
Ron Kelly

http://www.iroaronline.org/dannyb.html

All you would want to know.

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Thanks.

I use the one 69 suggested most but also look at custom works web page under the agressor manual about 3/4 way through theres a good amount of info
http://www.customworksrc.com/aa_support/models/0800/0800_manual_web.pdf
starts on page 13

I usually don't mess with my caster settings until I get my setup about where I want it. I know there's ten different ways to get anywhere, but most of the time I put a little split in it and go from there. Any changes in caster for me, seem to give a different feel right in the center of the corner. I would be interested in how other oval guys utilize caster, and what results they get when making changes. Also why they made these certain changes and what they expect the handling to do because of them.
Like I said it's mostly a "feel" thing for me. I'm no expert though. Not even close.

yeah i would like to know also. Im getting smoked from the center off, have fastest car in straight and enters fine but im getting killed out. I just took castor out of the front to see if that helps tomorrow night but I have never experimented with it before. Now if I could fix the driver

also check out the left hander product support link on this site. caster was discussed a few pages back.

yeah i would like to know also. Im getting smoked from the center off, have fastest car in straight and enters fine but im getting killed out. I just took castor out of the front to see if that helps tomorrow night but I have never experimented with it before. Now if I could fix the driver

run some sag in the LF spring. about .020" or so. that should straighten out the push off problem.

Yeah meat I tried it up to .30 in left front last night with several spring combinations. Think I may have a weight problem(dont have scales) but thanks anyway

how do you measure the sag ?

Is this for me? set it down and eyeball it. i meant .030 but that was just a guess. I tried it in incriments from 0. Its on power exit that is hurting me, played with rear shock also got better but still nowhere close to the best running cars at the track. This is my first season in oval but have been in offroad for years. I am by no means a know it all so any input is appreciated. I know its dang near impossible to diagnose a car over the internet, but every weekend I learn a little more by trying suggestions(and the guys at the track)

.... I know its dang near impossible to diagnose a car over the internet,

especially when you don't give any information...
There are a lot of sharp people that try to help others
but you need to give them something to go by...
tires... springs... type of car... the more detailed you can
be, the more accurate the answers can be.

One thing for absolute certain.
You say you're getting smoked off the corners.
It ain't caster.

Im running a hangman with 21.5/lipo and this is pretty much the setup i copied on my car currently....
LF

Green Muddslide standard
.030 droop
1* camber
1* caster
CRC 0* caster block
.040 axle shims
.125 ride adjuster under a-arm
Green / white 2.15

RF

Red Progressive Muddslide
.000-.010 droop
1.5* camber
3* caster
CRC 0* caster block
0 axle shims
.125 ride adjuster under a-arm
Grey/Silver 70/30 2.15

LR

1.5 IRS ride adjuster
Pearl 2.15
12lb spring
.080-.100 axle shims

RR

1.5 IRS ride adjuster
White 2.15
10lb spring
.040 axle shims

30# oil in the sides
40# oil HPI center shock with 5-8 lb spring
Center mount in front set of holes
Center shock 3rd hole down
1/2 * rear steer
Centered T-Plate offset pod
T-HD body

Im running a green center and only a 1/4 rr steer, bsr pinks,and purple or double pink RF I think are the only real differences. Im not getting smoked per say but it would be a capable front runner without the push out

wow that thing sits low in the front.

center offset? offset offset?

ride height i would say is about 6mm I didnt copy his tire size and shims either. just tried to get it level to the eye. I was catching the tape sunday and took out a 2 mm spacer for yesterday. Center T offset pod. I am running a C hair of rear reverse stagger and level up front. Car has good grip on rear with no wedge

I,m runnning a very similar set up on my 21.5 Lipo Hangman and Future and its been very good. Maybe less weight on the LR ( I,ve been running less than an ounce split across the rear 10.5 LR- 9.5 RR ) or maybe a white instead of the pearl would help.

thanks flash. Im going to try a few things this weekend. I love the car, not dissin it in any way:thumbsup:

especially when you don't give any information...
There are a lot of sharp people that try to help others
but you need to give them something to go by...
tires... springs... type of car... the more detailed you can
be, the more accurate the answers can be.

One thing for absolute certain.
You say you're getting smoked off the corners.
It ain't caster.

And why Not? Doesn't Caster improve the contact patch area of the tire during a turn.

From Danny Bartholomews chassis book

Castor is important but not something that is of great help to beginners. First off, when looking at the kingpin from the side the upper part should always be leaning toward the back of the car. Secondly, the LF should always have less castor than the RF.

Some of the affects of castor are this. Running lots of castor will make the car stable on the straight-aways, but this will add a ton of scrub to the car, slowing it down. It is best to run as little castor as possible. That equals the least amount of scrub. Adding castor will make the car turn into the corner better and make it push more coming off the corner. Running less castor will make the car tighter entering the corner and loosen it coming off.

Run what Associated calls 0 castor in the LF and 2 in the RF. This will work at most every track.

i was told if you set each wheel at 0 camber then turn say the right wheel to the left ,put your camber gage against it and that will tell how much caster you have ,is this a good way or not

Mike

Duckryder-sent you good info for your LE

And why Not? Doesn't Caster improve the contact patch area of the tire during a turn.

Caster will NEVER make enough difference to keep you
from getting "smoked".... EVER.

Im not getting smoked really(or maybe i am)just pushing wide. Those of you that run 21.5 know what im trying to say(i hope). that fast of car and pulling even two car lengths out of the corner is huge(especially when we all have within .2 consistency on good day). But some guys have thrown ALOT of good info my way and i thank them

I found my car pushing up off,I raised the center shock up 2 holes , I'm using a CW center mount on a leading edge and picked up.2 on # of laps and went to 40 thousandths droop L front

Birdman 11 ( Mike )------- MGT Man's Dad

Duckryder,

First, pit scales are essential. I put mine out for everyone at my local track to use and will even help them with suggestions.

Second, you are probably pushing. It amazes me how much steering people have in their rigs. A few guys at my track have gone the other direction, we brag about how little stering we have dialed into our rigs (I'm only running 8 degrees of steering today!). As an experiment, crawl your car through a turn and take note of your max steering input. Is it close to the same input at full speed, or do you have to crank the steering at full speed? If its not close you're tight and scrubbing off speed. If this is the case start dialing steering out from the Dual Rate and EPA and work on freeing up the rear.

Cap tires make a scrubbing noise, so it's not only 'loose is fast' but 'quiet is fast' as well.

Bob

Duck - pm me any questions about your local tracks, I have run most of them.

Bob - never had a single car on a scale in fla., when I run caps though, I would
have to agree with you.

bgruen,

How do you measure the 8 degrees and what would that be in dual rate on your radio??

Didnt realize this thread was still going. My endpoints are at 100 and I run about 40 percent of that(dunno what that is in degrees lol) but its not much(I sure cant turn around in a straight). I got the car better, runnin it bad loose with very little steering. I put the fastest lap down but thats all I can say. I just feel like im fighting it more than I should have to(kind of a one line only deal,and its a wide one). Well anyway its getting bumped down to a 13.5 car so we will see if my new 21.5 rig is better or whether it was me. As far as scales it would be nice to see where its at for reference, but I have exact shock lengths from team drivers down to hundredths of a inch, so it shouldnt be too far off. Its not that bad really but do you wanna run midpack or up front. Im new to oval but not rc, the more I tinker and learn every week the better. I have learned a TON already and its just kind of a personal thing to struggle to the front of the pack(thats racing right?). Its the challenge that makes it great. Hopefully a few years from now Ill be helping people out the same way