my local antique store has a mint look's to be t-jet v.w. bug orange i think it has number#3 on side he keep's asking me HOW much!how much should i offer him?(he's going out of business).need E-mail responce fast..

my opinion

You can get a Dash body of practically the same car for around $10 if you don't need an original.

Many places on the net have the Dash version.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

25 to 35 seems about right. Give er take on condition. Striping/artwork condition is everything on the tuffy cars barring any carnage to the actual plastic body.

Should be the #2... the #3 was the recent dash repop...if memory serves...somebody set me straight please.

Should have blue glass.

This one should be on an open or solid rivet silver chassis.

Check the body carefully for cracks...they are quite thin...especially around all the edges. EG: fenderlips, front and rear aprons, A B and C pillars, as well as rocker strip. Hidden hairline fractures are VERY common in aged Beetles. They were thin and gassed out quickly, so what was a slight nick in it's youth could blow open into full blown crack in old age.

Check the bumpers for crack/damage, as well as the screw posts. They often had their longer factory issue mounting screws lost and replaced with shorter ones; ergo the posts are often stripped short.

Vice versa: check that the deck lid wasnt ruined by someone winding the proper factory screw in without the bumper as a spacer!!! This is often hard to see and frequently overlooked until ya see it later. D'oh! :freak:

Use caution when winding screws out of bugs...even with extreme caution I've had whole sections crack right out.

Is it in the box with the paper from aurora or loose? If it's mint yea 30 -40 with the tuff one chassis and correct internals arm mag etc. If you want a collector car, go for it, but as Bill said it's made real thin so not so good to run around the track. If you want a runner, get a dash or aw bug, cheap, tuff as nails, look great because they are new condition, and a few color options, good to run the poop out of.

Remember, the tuff ones chassis had the wider wheels in the rear with sponge tires, although the current owner may have installed others since the sponge could dry up, and the "independent" ;) front axle in the front. rr

Thanks to all above! I think i'll just make him throw it in with the 350 diecast cars that i'm buying from him for $190 .He also had cigar box of very old tyco stuff (he want's $100 bucks for eight chassis some complete)so told him to keep it and bought the 4 gear blank chassis $1 and a non mag blank for $5.will let all know what exactly the bug is!

Thanks again guy's,I went back to the antique store and bought the bug today now i need a little help?it's a orange with blk/wht strips beetle with #2,with (tjet size) greenish yellow clear tint but i need id help.he gave me the car for $15.once i pointed out the rear bumper was half missing.the body is mint but has no #'s or words inside? how can i tell history? the chassis has a hong kong sticker on the side has us pat #324(hole)917 on top gear were the 3 gears are. bottom of chassis has a "b" the chassis is dark greyish/green has a red arm with green wires, red and white magnets.and has a black pin,the rear tires are solid dry (very hard but with no cracks and perf round.)the front tires come off but seem frozen solid.the shoes are look very used(little black tar look) can i get some i.d. help? if it is a old car should i leave it like it is?can i find a replacement rear bumper?did i pay "to much".

15.00 was good, it sounds like an original car, and remember, regular tjet chassis complete and running usually go for 8-10 bucks alone.

road race replicas has replacement bumpers too

What you described is a tuff ones bug. Not a bad deal. Clean it up slap some new tires on it and go fer a ride!

Did he have any Tycos?

HEY BILL! i have to take the time to thank you and the other guy's for the info! but i need to tell you what happen!When i tryed to open( remove the rear screw)you know- that was the end of the piece of bumper that was still on the car! it broke in 2 pieces(the bumper went oneway and the clip of the bumper went another)!AND then i re read BILL'S and other's post above. And trust me you all saved the rest of the car for the fact of.....before i put the "u shaped" clip from the bumper back..y"all know i tryed just screw the body back on without it. and almost lost the rest of the car with the "just a little more screw turn feel"then i remembered the" post "and put the clip between back body and chassis.Thank's to all! i'll put it on my shelf and leave it before i break it trying to remove the rear tire's. and yeah he had tyco but the stuff he had was foreign to me ...chassis that i never seen before like all copper bottoms or something! (BUT how did bill know this was going to happen) he's the man!

Id take those tyco chassis If you go back up there, see if he would take $30 for that box , I can pay pal you the money + shipping

LOL!

No crystal ball required Copper Head. Punching screws out the topside is a common dissaster especially when bodies have shortened/lowered screw posts. As the Aurora bug comes with a naturally short rear post and unaturally long screws to compensate for the bumper attachment it's a common affliction to that particular model.

The GT40 is another that often has the deck lid dimpled after someone has shortened the rear post and absent mindedly hammmered a screw in.