Assuming the GO controller cannot be modded to nix the turbo button and get 0-100% on the plunger?

I would like to use the Evolution controller on the GO track.
Will it work the same as before and accomplish my goal?
Any advice on this?

Thanks.

Actually there is not that much in the GO controller.
Anybody heard of it being modified?

Why does HO have only 2 wires while all the others have 3 wires?
Thought I could use a Tyco controller then realized the 2-3 wire deal.

Here is what I have.
2 Parma controllers, no idea, one cheap and one cheaper.
2 Extra GO controllers.
2 Evolution controllers.
4 Tyco controllers.

Any help would be good.

I'm sure you could wire to make it work... but the ohm ratings are probably different with all the controllers you mentioned. Which might not accomplish your goal.

Usually the third wire (red wire) is used for breaks on the car... when the trigger is released, the controller will short the rails, the back EMF generated from the rolling cars DC motor acts as a break and stops the car sooner. It requires the track to be wired correctly for breaking.

Are you trying to slow the cars down? (Maybe for junior driver)
Or, just looking for a better driving experience with a typical controller? (non-plunger)

I have a GO track.. I'll have to pull it out and see if I can wire a different controller to
it. I'll let you know.

-Robbie

Not looking for brakes. Just would like all the available voltage variable via the plunger. The top 25-30% boost is available only with the Turbo button. We want to put that 25-30% where it belongs. Such as with other controllers that do not have a Turbo button.

Yes to the junior driver but NO to slowing down.
Thanks.

I understand.. have a couple of junior drivers myself. I'll see what I can figure out.

-Robbie

yeah that turbo button is a drag...good way to wreck the cars...i have some go track aswell,for fun.like the cars,hate the controllers!

Not much here. Not much experience modding controllers either.
Does it need more winds?
What do I do with the 2 wires going to the turbo button?

Guess I need to look at some more insides of other controllers.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/1.jpg%5B/IMG%5Dhttp://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/1.jpg

http://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/2.jpg

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i432.photobucket.com/albums/qq42/gregandrea/2.jpg%5B/IMG%5D

Minreg,

I didn't have time to try anything tonight.. hopefully tomorrow. The red wires look like a bypass.. just sending the full voltage to the track.

Have you tried splicing the wires to another controller?

What connectors does the parma controllers have? The usual is just alligator clips.. If so, try clipping/connecting the black & white wires to each of the two red wires at the turbo button.

Post a pic of the other controllers if you can.

-Robbie

Ok. Not sure what I want to do next...
But here is what I found.

I had an Aurora controller with the end cut off.
Hooked this up to the 2 red wires and it worked. :woohoo:
Got 0-19V here. Since one of the red wires is jumped from a black wire. I assume black is negative.

The track terminal appears to be like this...
Left blade or post. negative
Middle post. 19V
Right post. 15.5V

Have not tried any other controllers yet.
On the 15V right post it, operates just like before but with the finger action of the Aurora instead of the thumb plunger. Not sure which is better but it seems to take more effort to use the thumb.
On the 19V middle post, it is really fast. I seem to do well with the Carrera car here. But the SCX fly away if not really careful.

I think that removing the blue wire from the assembly above and putting the red one in its place(not the orangey one) will accomplish the goal.

However, if you prefer the finger action LOL then another controller is needed. What I would like is another controller, lengthen the wire and add a mini switch where 15v is novice and you could switch it to 19V pro. Forget the turbo boost button.

What do you think ruffutt?

Replaced the blue wire with the red one and it works but gets way hotter than it did before. Also redid the turbo button to be a brake button.
Not sure why the wound wires are getting hotter. About 120 F after many laps. Guess cause of the higher voltage.

Aurora HO controller does not get as hot. But the higher speed is way down the band.
Parma controller 1/24th, just acts as an on/off switch. No speed band.
Will try the Tyco and Evolution when I can.
So far I like the modded GO controller.

Modded Go controller is working fine.
The old yellow Tyco controller is good to and seems better than the Aurora.
Need a 60 ohm resistor to test the Parma.
Not gonna bother with the Evolution as the others seem to offer good results.