View Full Version : Trying to get an old snowblower running


64impala
01-17-2009, 07:20 PM
Hi all -

I've "inherited" a Simplicity Snowbuster 828 from my mother-in-law. Since I don't already have enough projects on the burner I decided to take it apart to see if I could get it going. Its got an 8 HP Tecumseh engine (HM80-155167F SER 9088C). It hasn't run in probably 20+ years (just sat in a garage). So the first thing I checked was to make sure it cranked and wasn't seized. Its got electic start and cranks great. Trouble is, I have no spark (big surprise righht?)

I've changed the plug, pulled the flywheel off and the points look like they are in good shape. In fact they look almost new. I regapped the point, and cleaned up the rust on the ends of the iron core on the stator plate, checked the magnets on the flywheel (which were strong), put everything back together again, cranked it and had no spark. I then disconnect the on-off from the engine, recranked and still no spark (I was grounding the plug on the top of the head). I have to assume, that it was running at the time it was put away in the garage, and the air gap between the stator and fly is good. There is oil in the crankcase

So, what else could I check to try and establish a spark? Also, is there a CDI kit that I could put on this engine in place of the points? Its a pretty old snowblower, but if I can get it running, its cheaper than a new one.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

bser
01-17-2009, 07:55 PM
That only thing left is the coil. Do you have anybody in your area who could check to see if the coil works? Coils are about $35-50. Your engine was made on the 88th day of either 1979 or 1969.FYI That is one thing I don't like about Tec engine markings Ser-9088 ,could be 1969 or 1959 or 1979. Briggs code # would say ex: 690315

pyro_maniac69
01-18-2009, 01:12 AM
course, if you are replacing the coil, you might as well replace the points and condensor also, cause than you won't have to rip it all apart again incase something still doesn't go right, and they are the problem anyways.

and grounding the plug is NOT a good way to check for spark, either buy a spark tester, or pucker up your lips, hold on to the plug wire, and give it a yank (NOT RECOMMENDED THOUGH)

Engine Boy
01-18-2009, 07:16 PM
try adjusting the ohv i had a tractor that wouldnt start that is what was wrong with mine

30yearTech
01-18-2009, 07:54 PM
pucker up your lips, hold on to the plug wire, and give it a yank (NOT RECOMMENDED THOUGH)

Bet you didn't do this more then once...:p:p

Maytag
01-18-2009, 08:28 PM
and if you DO get back "under the hood" I would replace the cap (condensor). If it's 20+ yrs old like you say it has probably failed. Not sure if it would prevent a spark though unless it shorted out. Not sure even then. Perhaps the experts can clarify that please.

>Maytag:freak:

pyro_maniac69
01-19-2009, 12:29 AM
Bet you didn't do this more then once...:p:p

I had to the other day, idiots I work with hit the electric start button on a 2-stroke 5 horse tecumseh with the muffler off, I saw a puff of smoke and thought to myself "oh sh#t, here we go"

of course, the key switch was unplugged, and when I choked it, it didn't even bog, so I puckered up, grabbed and pulled the wire....course I was the only one brave enough to do it

Juan phillips
01-19-2009, 02:29 PM
I have an hm-80 that is running poorly, does any one know what the point gap should be??

64impala
01-19-2009, 10:53 PM
thanks for all the help guys, looks like I'll be buying some parts...

To Juan - I believe the point gap is supposed to be .020 when the cam wiper is at its highest point. I would change the spark plug first before messing with the points.

Joe