So I recently picked up an old Aurora AFX set at a garage sale for $3 and its remarkably complete, its the "Championship Raceway" featuring Richard Petty. I think its in such good condition because one of the crown gears was defective and one of the cars was dead slow. Well anyway I am looking to set up a whole course in my basement, is there any current track out there that will connect to the one I already have?

The Set is Circa 1978 so I believe all new Tomy /Afx track is compatible.

If it is this type which I have a majority of, I do know you can step backwards with adapter tracks and I think I have seen the adapters to the next generation forward AF/X track. Right now I am using exclusively.


http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p8/hotrailz/AFXQuick-Loc.jpg

Let me answer your question some more. I have made power-taps to each lane and each lane has its own wal-wart. I'm a cheapo like that as I have $15 in the power supply system but is just for fun anyway and it works just fine. I am in process of a redesign so the kid and I can have some Friday night dirt track racing. As of now.

If your track looks like the one pictured above, it is original Aurora AFX track, not the current Tomy AFX track. Tomy does make adapters to combine the Aurora AFX and Tomy AFX track systems.

You will probably have a difficult time locating more Aurora AFX track and if you do find it, it will almost definitely be used; and probably with a lot of broken tabs. Be careful in that you don't spend more money on adapters than it would cost you to buy a new large set; plus with adapters, you'll be restricted as to how creative you can get since they always have to be between track types. Tomy has a couple large sets which would do well to get you started.

Joe

That is exactly my track, so really my only choice is to find original track or buy a whole new set and just up grade to the Tyco style track? I have a feeling this is a rookie question, but why would I need multiple power supplies? It has one and 2 controllers.

I have mine being set up 4 lane. as a 2 lane and one power supply they tend to overpower the running lane when the other lane deslots causing the running lane to spike and cause that car to crash. With each lane having its own wart that is gone. You can always buy a single power supply with high enough amps and this will go away also. Most everyone has gone to these but like I stated, Low income=me tightwad. David

If interested I have the original AFX track- all new. Some are on original
blister packs, bulk & boxed including banked turns. Curves in both 1/8 & 1/4
radius for 6 & 9 in. & 12,15. Straights in 5,6,7,9 & 15. Other pcs. such as
cobblestone, criss cross, squeeze & lap counter. Also Hi-Perf. metal power
packs & controllers in boxes. :)

That is exactly my track, so really my only choice is to find original track or buy a whole new set and just up grade to the Tyco style track? I have a feeling this is a rookie question, but why would I need multiple power supplies? It has one and 2 controllers.
I would not consider Tyco track to be an upgrade. I have a pile of Tyco that I got for free, and the track that's set up in my basement right now is Tomy. Tyco's got too many electrical problems.

I would not consider Tyco track to be an upgrade. I have a pile of Tyco that I got for free, and the track that's set up in my basement right now is Tomy. Tyco's got too many electrical problems.

yeah tyco is a pain,for sure.but i also got a bunch for free,and i like the 1/8 turn sections,so that's what i use...i do not have 1/8 curves on my other two ho type track sets,and have very little room.the crossovers are temporary...http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1637.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1638.jpg

hoslotcarracing.com has about the best price on adapters...
Tomy AFX 3" Aurora Adaptor Pair $5.15
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/image/Tomy/8626.gif

I would not consider Tyco track to be an upgrade. I have a pile of Tyco that I got for free, and the track that's set up in my basement right now is Tomy. Tyco's got too many electrical problems.

While I cannot confirm or deny that Tyco track gives some guys electical problems, I can state without question that the redesigned Mattel track (100% Tyco compatible) has no electrical problems at all, based on the layout I have in my basement. In fact, the electrical connectivity is excellent for sectional plastic track.

Having said that, and although I use and will continue to use Tyco/Mattel track, I would probably buy Tomy track if I was starting out from scratch today. That's not because there is anything wrong with the Mattel track (although I would change a couple things), but because Mattel has not produced much, if any, HO track in the past few years. You need the easy availability of Tomy track if you are going to start from scratch.

Joe

While I cannot confirm or deny that Tyco track gives some guys electical problems, I can state without question that the redesigned Mattel track (100% Tyco compatible) has no electrical problems at all, based on the layout I have in my basement. In fact, the electrical connectivity is excellent for sectional plastic track.

Having said that, and although I use and will continue to use Tyco/Mattel track, I would probably buy Tomy track if I was starting out from scratch today. That's not because there is anything wrong with the Mattel track (although I would change a couple things), but because Mattel has not produced much, if any, HO track in the past few years. You need the easy availability of Tomy track if you are going to start from scratch.

Joe

hey joe.the issue i have with my tyco track is not electrical.i just hate the connectors!it's a pain to get smooth track joints.love the 1/8 curves i have,thats why i set up my tyco track to begin with...

I do have to agree with both of you. The AF/X quik loc track is totally unuseable once the tabs break off onless you have the time to make a solid base to screw it down to. Since it is all I have and I have a nice flat surface to mount it on it will have to do. It is what I grew up with and the tracks always got shorter as they got put together and taken apart and the tabs broke off. If I had to start over I would probably try to find a couple of International sets, have eight cars, and a ton of good connected track.

While I cannot confirm or deny that Tyco track gives some guys electical problems, I can state without question that the redesigned Mattel track (100% Tyco compatible) has no electrical problems at all, based on the layout I have in my basement. In fact, the electrical connectivity is excellent for sectional plastic track.

Having said that, and although I use and will continue to use Tyco/Mattel track, I would probably buy Tomy track if I was starting out from scratch today. That's not because there is anything wrong with the Mattel track (although I would change a couple things), but because Mattel has not produced much, if any, HO track in the past few years. You need the easy availability of Tomy track if you are going to start from scratch.

JoeI set up a 4 lane 4x8 layout with Tyco. I cleaned each section. I polished each rail with an eraser type cleaner popular with train hobbyists. I hit each rail with a dremel with a brass brush where the rails contact each other. I applied Rail Zip at each contact point. I soldered the power connections to the rails of one straight section. I still had electrical problems. I tore it down, and replaced it with a two lane version in Tomy. I did nothing to the Tomy, and I had far better power (using the Tomy terminal piece) than I did with the Tyco track. Also, my AFX's don't run well on Tyco. I don't know if it's rail height, slot depth, or what, but my AFX's work much better on Tomy than Tyco. Tomy has a better selection of track pieces, too. I still prefer Tyco for cars, but for track, it's a no-brainer for Tomy.

I set up a 4 lane 4x8 layout with Tyco. I cleaned each section. I polished each rail with an eraser type cleaner popular with train hobbyists. I hit each rail with a dremel with a brass brush where the rails contact each other. I applied Rail Zip at each contact point. I soldered the power connections to the rails of one straight section. I still had electrical problems. I tore it down, and replaced it with a two lane version in Tomy. I did nothing to the Tomy, and I had far better power (using the Tomy terminal piece) than I did with the Tyco track. Also, my AFX's don't run well on Tyco. I don't know if it's rail height, slot depth, or what, but my AFX's work much better on Tomy than Tyco. Tomy has a better selection of track pieces, too. I still prefer Tyco for cars, but for track, it's a no-brainer for Tomy.

I used original Aurora L&J track every time I had a track set up from the late 60s till about two years ago when I switched over completely to Mattel. The difference was noticable as I got far better electrical conectivity with the Mattel. Where I needed about 5 power taps on the Aurora, I need only one with the Mattel (even though I have two). I could also run more unmodified chassis styles on the Mattel than I could on the Aurora. On the Aurora, magnet chassis had too much downforce.

One thing I have discovered about the Mattel track is that you should always make sure that the end of the rail has a slight bend toward the rail on the adjacent piece - it is the pressure of the two rails against each other that provides the good electrical contact between pieces. I would guess that if you took the Tyco track and bent the rail ends slightly so that the rails of adjacent pieces were bent toward each other, you would see a great electrical improvement. Since the Tyco/Mattel rails of adjacent pieces slide in next to each other, it is important to get good contact between them. Mattel redesigned the rails to put in a slight bend, but there's no reason not to take a few seconds per piece and put a slight bend into the Tyco rails.

You also have to remember that Aurora AFX and Tomy AFX track have a deeper slot depth than Tyco/Mattel, so you may have experianced some guide pin drag if you used AFX blades.

Last point, and I make this often. While Tomy does have a couple USEFUL pieces that Tyco does not, Tyco does offer some USEFUL pieces that Tomy does not. I feel I can make a more varied layout with Tyco than I could with Tomy.

Joe

Hmmm. Interesting. Tyco is generally accepted to have more downforce than Tomy. Mattel must have made a change to their rail size. I agree that bending the rail ends would improve Tyco electrically, but after all the improvements I experienced switching to Tomy, it became a no-brainer for me. BTW, I tried both sides of the AFX flag/pin on my Tyco track, and it still didn't run "right". As I recall, the front wheels still didn't turn, making me think that the rails were too high and preventing the car from rolling on the tires, resulting in too much braking.

Interesting comment about track selections. What does Mattel have that Tomy doesn't? I wasn't aware that there was anything you could do with Mattel that you couldn't do with Tomy.

Hmmm. Interesting. Tyco is generally accepted to have more downforce than Tomy. Mattel must have made a change to their rail size..

Tyco may have more downforce than Tomy, but I was comparing Tyco/Mattel with original Aurora. I have never run on a Tomy track, so I can't comment on how the two compare as it pertains to downforce.

I agree that bending the rail ends would improve Tyco electrically, but after all the improvements I experienced switching to Tomy, it became a no-brainer for me. BTW, I tried both sides of the AFX flag/pin on my Tyco track, and it still didn't run "right". As I recall, the front wheels still didn't turn, making me think that the rails were too high and preventing the car from rolling on the tires, resulting in too much braking.

I'm certainly no expert on the advantages/disadvantages of running on Tyco vs. Tomy vs. Lifelike. My only experiance has been with Aurora and Mattel, and between those two, I prefer Mattel.

Interesting comment about track selections. What does Mattel have that Tomy doesn't? I wasn't aware that there was anything you could do with Mattel that you couldn't do with Tomy.

Tomy has the following which Tyco does not: 18" 1/8 curve, 12" banked curve, 3" hairpin, 3" straight and a left and right chicane (although these may be out of production).

Tyco/Mattel has the following which Tomy does not: railroad crossing, 6" hump track (can be used in conjunction with 6" transition/loop to make a bridge) and a 9" hill track (from Motocross sets).

Tyco/Mattel also has the following single lane track: single lane adapters, single lane (3.25", 6" and 9") straights, single lane (9" 1/8 and 9" 1/4) curves, single lane intersection, double single lane intersection and single lane loop track (useless).

Tyco/Mattel also made track in different colors, although almost no one cares. They also made 9" 1/4 and 12" 1/8 curves with double steel rails for greater downforce. Tyco/Mattel also made some computer control lap counters and pit roads. And, believe it or not, there is a 3" Mattel straight in the Harry Potter set - the only place you can find that piece.

Of the pieces which Tomy makes that Tyco does not, I consider only the 18" curve to be something I would use. I haven't yet used banked curves, wouldn't want a 3" hairpin, can work my way easily around needing a 3" straight. The chicanes look like they might be fun.

However, the Tyco single lane track, as well as some of the other pieces can be very useful.

Now, if someone had a 7" straight, that would be useful.

Joe

Orginal Tyco track,has a better quality rail than Tomy track,it's considered a high downforce track,and Tomy with it's poorer rail is always considered as a low downforce track,except maybe the newer Mattel stuff,not sure of it's rail quality compared to the older Tyco stuff.
EarlyTyco track will outlast Tomy track by quite a bit.
Both styles of track need lots of work to make smooth,and both benefit from some plastic shaving at the joints.
Tomy track has uneven and narrow lane spacing compared to every other track in the world,requiring you to run a narrow axle assembly,and with some of the newer mag cars using wide tires ,it becomes a challenge to get 2 cars past each other.
Tyco track has better lane spacing with it's more common 1.5" spacing,but has a shallow guide-pin depth compared to Tomy.
If your making a long term layout that's screwed down,i'd use early Tyco just for the fact it'll give you quite a bit more years of use compared to a Tomy set-up,jumpers take care of the electrical problems both styles of track have

Given the above info, I'm still in favor of Tomy. Of the unique pieces offered by Tyco/Mattel, none of them appeal to me. Of the unique pieces offered by Tomy, I like the 18" curves, and the 1/8 6" curve pieces (Tyco only offers 1/4 sections of 6" curves).

As for durability, in my experience, the things that make old track unsuitable are broken tabs, and rusty rails, especially where they contact each other. Both Tyco/Mattel and Tomy have gotten the broken tab problem fixed. The rusty rail problem? I don't know, but I feel like Tomy will keep it's better electrical connectivity longer than Tyco/Mattel. When I just "slap together" some track that's been in my basement for several years, the Tomy track works, the Tyco track doesn't. About the only thing I prefer on Tyco/Mattel is the lane spacing. I don't know what Aurora (which Tomy is based on) was thinking on this one.

. . . About the only thing I prefer on Tyco/Mattel is the lane spacing . . .

Same here.

And the lane spacing issue, to me at least, is not a deal breaker. This is why we have tech blocks.

(Tyco only offers 1/4 sections of 6" curves).

While true that Tyco only offered 6" 1/4 curves, our aftermarket curves expand that to include the 6" 1/8 and 15" 1/8 curves.

About the only thing I prefer on Tyco/Mattel is the lane spacing. I don't know what Aurora (which Tomy is based on) was thinking on this one.

The even lane spacing is a biggie for me. It's the one unalterable characteristic of any plastic track. It's the major decision factor for me.

Joe

Given the above info and opinions, I'm not happy with either brand. With the expense it takes to acquire enough pieces to make a decent 4x16 layout, and all the adjusting that comes with it, I'd rather have a routed, or pro sectional track. There is now enough competition out there online that is making this choice more affordable. Heck, there's even all kinds of info on how to route your own track, if you are that handy. Tyco and Tomy are still the most cost effective on a 4x8 or 5x9 layout, but on the big tables, get a 'big boy' track. I'm waiting for business to pick up, then I'm stashing some cash for a routed sectional track. I'll post picks and info when I do.

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars :thumbsup:

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/popcorn.gif

Now I'm hungry for popcorn!

The best track in the world is the one that your car is currently sitting on, the one that your controller is plugged into, the one you are turning laps on right now. I don't care if it's Tyco, Tomy, MM, AFX, custom routed, or whatever. Give me a track, my controller, and my pit box filled with cars and parts and I really don't care about minor details like 1/8" lane space differences, slot depth differences, or how much you paid for your track.

Big Boys race on anything, at any time, and don't whine about it.

Yeah what he said!!

!:freak:

Big Boys race on anything, at any time, I was with you up to here. "Big Boy" races are typically conducted on routed, pro sectional, and plastic sectional, all massaged for smoothness & good power.

and don't whine about it.
You've obviously never been to a "Big Boy" HO race. I've never encountered a bigger bunch of whiners in my life. From here on, it's nothing but basement and/or club racing for me.

I was with you up to here. "Big Boy" races are typically conducted on routed, pro sectional, and plastic sectional, all massaged for smoothness & good power.

You've obviously never been to a "Big Boy" HO race. I've never encountered a bigger bunch of whiners in my life. From here on, it's nothing but basement and/or club racing for me.

Totally hear you on this. Love this Big Boy track, hate the Big Boy whining. I just threw that comment in there for fun.
AFXtoo: The question was about AFX track, and turned into a debate over which was better, Tyco, or AFX Tomy. Seeing all the threads on how much time and money people have put into there tracks, and how much time and money I've put into my own Tomy track setup, it just doesn't seem like a big step further to go ahead and get a professional track. I'm not knocking anyone's track, we are all just stuck with what is available on the market. I'm just merely pointing out the fact that there are some very good quality tracks now available, crafted in the USA by people who care about racing, instead of pumped out of an assembly line by some 12 year old in China. Uneven rail heights, warped track, won't line up side by side or straight, why put up with it? I know some guys that like to change thier track configurations from time to time; Okay, plastic track. But, if your looking to build something to last, why not a professional track? It's getting affordable! These are good times!
As far as the racing, I like racing on ANY track. I think we have a good group of racers here. We have fun and race on everything. Tomy tracks, Maxx Trax, Tyco tracks, L&J track, as long as we're running LWB Tyco 440x2s, I'm havin fun. :thumbsup: So fire up the popcorn and pass the controllers!

One day I'll have one of them good tracks:rolleyes:

Rich

I just threw that comment in there for fun

Me too!

Any thread that starts out or ends up heading down the "A is better than B" path always ends up in the same place. Blah blah blah blah blah ...

I totally agree about the time versus money thing. If you are in short supply on one versus the other, then the choice can become self evident. It also depends on what you really want to achieve, both the journey to get there and the final result at the destination.

The set track is a marvelous option if you want to create a one of a kind, twisty turny, scenic'd masterpiece where you pine over and control every aspect of the build. This can be incredibly fun and rewarding and fulfill many years of hobby interest. Same goes for homemade custom routed. If you've got the time and need to exercise your creativity at many levels, this is a great option to flex your hobby skills and avoid cookie cutter track syndrome (CCTS).

The ready to race (RTR) custom, pro built tracks are definitely fulfilling a need and all of the ones I've seen deliver on their promise. If you've got the money and want to be racing with your buds within two hours of unpacking the crates, this category of track is going to get you there.

Some of the large format modulars and build to order (BTO) custom routed tracks can achieve a measure of both the qualities of the home grown design borne out of set track as well as the pro built tracks.

What doesn't fall out of the choices is an assessment of "which is better." Which is better is up to you to decide, based on your needs. At the micro level, choosing Tomy versus Tyco comes down to splitting hairs at a much finer level. But the decision should start at the next level up, by deciding your overall intent for your track, the layout, and how much time and money you want to put into it.

Seeing all the threads on how much time and money people have put into there tracks, and how much time and money I've put into my own Tomy track setup, it just doesn't seem like a big step further to go ahead and get a professional track.

I disagree. On a pure cost basis, plastic track is half the cost of even a pro sectional. Routed tracks are even higher. There's not doubt that for the serious racer, pro sectional tracks are a huge improvement, and routed tracks are even better. But with an entry fee of around $1400 for a 4x16 pro sectional, and $2000 for routed, plus a table, power supply, drivers stations, controllers, etc, that's a bit steep for entry into a new hobby. Plastic allows a $100-$200 entry fee, and the option to easily expand later. I'd love to have a pro sectional, but I don't see the budget committee approving that one.

From a racing standpoint, being able to race on each type of track is the best of all worlds. I love racing on the Tomy and Tyco tracks as much or more than I like racing on the velvety smooth goodness of a Max, Wiz, or custom. My favorite tracks are the one of a kind layouts that throw a little bit of everything at you without being gimmicky. If the F1 boys can race on the streets of Monaco then I can race on a clickity clack plastic track. Racing is racing and that's where the thrill comes into the equation for me.

Given the above info and opinions, I'm not happy with either brand. With the expense it takes to acquire enough pieces to make a decent 4x16 layout, and all the adjusting that comes with it, I'd rather have a routed, or pro sectional track. There is now enough competition out there online that is making this choice more affordable. Heck, there's even all kinds of info on how to route your own track, if you are that handy. Tyco and Tomy are still the most cost effective on a 4x8 or 5x9 layout, but on the big tables, get a 'big boy' track. I'm waiting for business to pick up, then I'm stashing some cash for a routed sectional track. I'll post picks and info when I do.


I disagree. On a pure cost basis, plastic track is half the cost of even a pro sectional. Routed tracks are even higher. There's not doubt that for the serious racer, pro sectional tracks are a huge improvement, and routed tracks are even better. But with an entry fee of around $1400 for a 4x16 pro sectional, and $2000 for routed, plus a table, power supply, drivers stations, controllers, etc, that's a bit steep for entry into a new hobby. Plastic allows a $100-$200 entry fee, and the option to easily expand later. I'd love to have a pro sectional, but I don't see the budget committee approving that one.

Bemore, I believe Rich is expressing the point of view of a slot racer who has spent years in the hobby and has built the custom table for the layout, purchased the custom power supplies, etc. You are absolutely correct form the point of view of someone starting out in the hobby. In that case, sectional track wins hands down; you can get a set for $100 to $200 and try it out. This is like putting your toe in the water before jumping in the pool to see if the water is to your liking. Once you decide that you like the hobby and you want to stay in it, sectional track is still a good choice as you can easily try numerous layouts until you find one or a style that suits your own needs. Rich's point is that if you're going to spend the time and money to build a sectional track on a large format such as 4' x 16' or 5' x 20', going for a custom built layout is a very attractive alternative. This is the "for a little more money, you get a lot more quality" idea. As AfxToo pointed out, this approach doesn't work if you really enjoy working your sectional track into a awesome smooth circuit.

Just my two cents... :drunk::hat::freak::dude:

I got to thinking about the whole routed vs sectional this week as my company is buying a gantry style cnc router that will easily handle a 5 x 8 sheet and I will most likely be the operater. So now the costs for me are alot closer. After running a few hours on Dave Parker's beautiful routed track last week it's an even more difficult descision. Routed tracks for better or worse dont have the nostalgic feel of a plastic track. I run mostly Tjets. One of the big reasons I love Tjets is the nostalga aspect. It takes me back to a simpler time( actually being 43 it takes me back to a time before I actually started racing slots). I have been running on Bob Niswanders tyco track {2 different tracks} for the last 5 or so years. The joints were silver soldered and the track runs perfect in both directions. His track is fairly low maintenance. He wipes it with WD-40 after each session, and a quick dusting before the start. He can leave it alone for months at a time. In Tucson temps and humidity fluctuate wildly. Even though in summer it can run upwards of 105 with little humidity most of the older houses are swamp cooled wich brings the humidity in the house way up. At my house I built a Tuckaway 25 with Tomy track, soldered rails and the track was painted gray. I also had little to any problems. As for the statement "racing with the big boys" to me that has more to do with the power supply and a computerized race manager. On a side note I am attaching my proposed track design for my new place in Huntsville.Rob

cool layout,rods.with tjets especially!i can just imagine the borders and drift action!two lane?be nice landscaped...

4 Lane fully 'scaped using Tomy track

4 Lane fully 'scaped using Tomy track


Another new thread in the making!!!!.... :woohoo: Can't wait to see it... or any other new (or old) layout for that matter.... regardless of track type. ALL OF THEM are the reason we come here... Let's face it, without 'em we'd be pretty bored. :lol: nd

here's what i am practicing on these days.kind of a freeway/hillclimber layout with a bunch of free lifelike track...20vdc...using tyco power,instead of the 16 vdc LL wart...http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1684.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1685.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1686.jpg

Hey, not bad at all, newbie. Anything that gives you an opportunity to log some track time and get those motors spinning and keep your trigger finger in shape is the right way to go. Looks like you got some decent running length too. Keep it up.

yeah,thanks!its 6.5 X3,but using"square"corners i can get alot of straights in.there's two fast downhill straights,two uphill straights,and a flat backstraight about 5 feet long or so...it's actually more challenging than you would think,as square corners are the hardest to drive right IMHO...i think the peterbilt is my favorite to run on this...

4 Lane fully 'scaped using Tomy track

Like this...

Like this...


Exactly like that.... only completely different!

Just kidding, I plan on doing similar to my layout once it is set up. I am still recovering financially from Xmas and the move to Alabama so it will be around a month before i can gather funds to build the table. For the moment I have a partial layout on my floor just for practice. I'm still deciding on a theme/time era for my track. all part of the fun. Later, Rob

You've gotta a cool track, AfxToo! Newbie, you manage to fit a whole lot of driver godness into a small space! Thanks to both of you for sharing your circuits!

Russ the Hutt

hey russ!yeah the cheese factor is alive and well,too!all glow in the dark guard rails!i just wired the peterbilt with a bulb,too!i was given a whole other set of the same LL track i already had,so all those straights sure came in handy!also i have one of the glow mustangs on an M CHASSIS just for fun!my kid likes it,and it makes the wife laugh,so it's all good!:rolleyes:
oh and afxtoo,really nice layout!wish i had a long enough rental agreement to make it worthwhile to do something permanent....

Rich's point is that if you're going to spend the time and money to build a sectional track on a large format such as 4' x 16' or 5' x 20', going for a custom built layout is a very attractive alternative. This is the "for a little more money, you get a lot more quality" idea.
Just my two cents... :drunk::hat::freak::dude:
I understand the argument. I just disagree with it. If you're going to build a 4x16 layout with table, driver's stations, and regulated power supply, and multiple power taps, all that stuff is the same regardless of track.

The argument goes like this: I have $1000 invested in my track. I should have just spent $1200 on a MaxTrack. This ignores the fact that of that $1000 investment in the existing track, only about $500 of that is for the actual track. There's another $500 in tables, power supply, controllers, etc. You would still need to spend that extra $500 if you had a MaxTrack, or routed, or anything else.

I don't have anything against the high end tracks. I'd love to have one. But I don't want people to think that they're available "for a little more money". The increase in price is substantial, as is the quality. I'd say that it's a case of "you get what you pay for".

i would kill for some of the layouts i have seen here.hell i'd kill for the space!it all boils down to work with what ya got,get her as smooth as you can,and get a car on her to see how ya did!

I have been following the conversation and I guess I will toss in my thoughts... Tomy tracks work well for me, especially when it comes to space vs. economics....Now if I have more of either I would consider a Prosec or Routed configuration....but the thing that keep me a Tomy man is the fact I can change my track when it suits me with minimal cost....

Another factor is I like the way a Tomy track looks when it's fully scaped...so realistic....now don't get me wrong one of my favorite tracks in the world is a road course made by a former company called "Victory Lanes" The track is called the Viper...no other routed track sends me in orbit like that one....

It's large fluid lines, smoothness and flow, to see and hear my cars hump it's 20 foot strait makes me tingle with excitment...

But on the other side a compact Tomy over and under road course with a bunch of 6" curves and chicans gets me going also.....

Below are my two favorite routed tracks...

The first one is the Viper the other is the Clubman...

Yo!

The post which started this whole thread asked a simple question - can adapters be found to add onto original AFX track. The answer to that question was yes (and posted early on), and then the thread morphed into something different and interesting.

There are a number of threads that pop up every so often where Tyco and Tomy are compared (Lifelike is usually a spectator). Since these three are the main players right now, with none of them having a large advantage over the other, you are going to find guys on both sides of the fence - and some who straddle it.

Building a large plastic sectional track from scratch can be very expensive, especially if you go for at least four lanes and buy the track individually at the retail level. The way to get around that cost is to buy track economically. How? There's a couple ways.

The most common way is to buy large sets and then maybe sell the cars to recoup almost all the money, making the track very inexpensive. This method may well allow you to acquire large amounts of track, but you will probably also get a lot of 9" 1/4 curves. There will come a point where you will have to pay retail (or close) to get certain pieces, like banked or large radius curves.

You could also find bulk lots of track for sale by guys who have accumulated track over the years. This can be very cost effective.

Lastly, you can find a vendor who sells track in bulk. The common pieces can be very inexpensive and can offset the cost of the premium pieces.

I have been accumulating Tyco/Mattel (and some Lifelike) track for years. For me, creating a Tyco/Mattel layout is very inexpensive (at a per piece cost), but I spent thousands buying up sets and bulk lots over the past decade. This also gives me the ability to sell track at some pretty low prices, while making a little profit.

Do I still want a routed track? Oh yeah. But I still like to tinker with my layout and plastic gives me that flexibility.

Thanks...Joe

Just to jump in...I have Tyco-mattell and new Tomy. The Tomy rails are higher and uneven, but I like the variety.

Has anyone looked at the new AW track? I can't tell from pictures what style of connectors they have. I would assume its licensed from some other manufacturer.

Anyone know?

David