I have 2 Parma Turbo controllers that are currently setup for 1/24 Slot Cars. Iam wondering if there is anybody that can rework them so i can use them for the H.O. Cars. Iam looking for one to be made for T-Jets, and the other to be made for Magnet Cars.

Please LMK if there is anybody that can do this work.

Thanks
Blake

Its pretty easy to do, you just take the 3 screws of the handle out an replace the resistor. 45 ohm is a nice mid level magnet car controller, an maybe a 90-120 ohm for t jets(but I don't run t jets I think I read it somewhere)

Thanks for the reply Kevin. But the resistors that my LHS are for the Economy model. And i know for a fact that he has a 25ohm one. He has 2 more but idk what they are. Ill find that out 2morrow. And both controllers are pretty old. They both have wires that need replaced.

Would the 25ohm work for anything?

Whats the range of ohms for Magnet Cars and Magna/T-Jets?

Yes 25 would be good for the stronger magnet cars., you may like it for other cars to just depends on your driving style.
Doing this is a great place to learn about controllers an how they work if you do it yourself an you know we at HT are only a post away with help if you need it. If you get the resistors don't feel like tackling it send me an pm. Ill do it.

The "H.O. Slot Car Racing" web site has a chart in the controllers section that may give you a better idea of what is recomended for different cars and setups.

Parma has a 90 ohm resister that will bolt right in. Any Parma resisters will go into either type of handle, turbo and economy.This would be fine for what you want
There are a number of sites to go to get hand wound t-jet resters. BRP makes some good ones as does HO World (I think)

As far as a "simple" operation to take the controller apart, well, I'll have to dissagree. I would rather get my teeth drilled than take apart my turbo controller. they are a pain to work on, and to get right again.
The problem is the wire that goes to the trigger. It must move with the trigger and not get bound up. Most guys want the least amount of trigger pull they can get, so getting this right allows you to lighten up on the spring.
But as you do this, the wire will get bound, and result it the trigger not returning all the way to the back.This will not do.
Good luck on the endevor and let us know how it went.

hrnts69, you'll need to do the math on this one and figure out what's the best bang for your buck. You have a few options:

1) Option 1: Buy two new Parma Econos for less than $25 each. A 35 or 45 for the magnet cars and a 90 ohm for the TJets. With some quality copper alligator clips and boots your total cost would be around $60 bucks. Then sell your old controllers to someone who is doing 1:24 and knows they need some work. Anything you get for them helps offset the cost of purchasing the new units. Yeah, the Econo is a bit of a downgrade, but more than adequate functionally. Total out of pocket for Option 1: $60 minus whatever you can get for your old units.

2) Option 2: Buy two replacement resistors for the Turbos. The 35 or 45 replacement from Parma will set you back $10-$15 depending on whether you go with the Plus style or the Turbo style. I'd recommend a BRP Nitro 120 resistor for the TJet unit and that will set you back $20. Then you'll need to find someone who can refurbish the controllers; mount replacement resistors, replace any bad wiring, etc. Ballpark, say $25 for both plus any shipping and handling which I'll put at $10. Total out of pocket for Option 2: $70, but at least you are still playing at the Turbo level, not Econo, so you'll have a more robust set of controllers.

3) Option 3: Lower end "electronic" controller. Buy a single new controller that can handle both TJets and magnet cars. I know there are Professor Motor (PM) diode based controllers that start off in the $50 range, and Professor Motor power transistor based units that start off around $100.

4) Option 4: Sky's the limit. I can say for certain that a Difalco 15-band HO controller with variable sensitivity, variable brake, variable coast, and variable choke does work very well for every car that I have in my inventory, from bone stock TJets to Poly Mod magnet cars with sub 2 ohm custom wound arms. I must add however that all 4 of these features, variable sensitivity, brake, coast, and choke are required to give you the full range of adjustments needed to accommodate the full range of cars that I have used this controller to operate. I have tried an Unlimited with this controller but I do not race that class so I cannot vouch for its suitability. I can say that it works very well for TJets, JL/AW TJets (incl. Ultra G), Fray style TJets, A/FX, Magnatraction, G-Plus, XT (incl. Ultra G), Super II, Tomy Turbo/SRT/SG/MG, LL M/T, Tyco Pro/HP2/HP7/440/440-X2, AW Super III, Wizzard P2/P3/Storm/ThunderStorm/SS/Mod/PolyMod, BSRT G3/G3R/SS/Mod/PolyMod, and Slottech Panther/T1/T2/SS/PolyMod because I have personally used it with every one of these cars. The zinger though is that this controller lists for around $250. Upgrades and options can be added to bring it up close to $300 list. This is clearly a huge investment versus the other options, but it does make sense when its cost and performance is commensurate with your overall investment in the hobby on the racing side of things. But once you get up in the stratosphere there are a number of other excellent custom controllers available besides the Difalco.

I hope this makes sense and gives you some options to think about. I also hope there are some folks on this board who will offer up the refurb service for a pre-renegotiated price to make your decision easier. I will ask around...