You have a PM... :wave:

"I've been paged,
Now the time has come,
There are things to realize,
And my soul has been psychedelicized,
Might get burned up by the Sun,
But I had my fun,
Time has come today,
Time has come today----- Chambers Brothers

Gotcha Bob,
I'll check it out,

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg

:thumbsup:

Doesnt do too much good to change the inside if ya cant see it. I guess I'm commited to it now...
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w96/bob8748/Dairy1002.jpg
I need to get a saw, a lot of grinding.

watch that kick back using a dremal tool...wear gloves and use a vice and glasses

I'm using a #2 file now...

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w96/bob8748/whatthehell003-1.jpg

Dam camera!

I cant work in gloves! And I cant see the computer without high powered glasses!

I made my mind up, I aint giving up! I'll never be in the top... but I'll keep playing!

Let me apologize. I've had a bad day. please delete my posts.
I do have some questions, but I sort of came out sounding mad... thats not me!

Easy Bob,
You don't sound mad at all,
In fact your posts and Emails show genuine great enthusiasm.

Cutting out your side panels in the Dairy can certainly be accomplished using a cutoff wheel.
There are better tools to use but it can be done.
Remember, anything can be done, you just have to figure out as many ways possible to fail and avoid them.

If you're using a cutoff wheel let the wheel do all the work.
Just apply light pressure and take your time.
You might try drilling several small holes to take away stock before cutting away with your file.
Before I bought my Jewelers Saw I cut all holes using a drill and file.
Then I bought several Carbide Cutters for my rotary tools.
These are the multiblade cutters in different shapes like a ball or pear or cone.
They run about 5 bucks and they cut through Zamac like balsa wood.

Stay after it man,
Don't let needing one small tool frustrate you.
Lay it down, buy the tools and then come back to it.

By the way,
The Window insert in Dairy Delivery's is obviously made so if you do cut out the side panels there will be a plastic window behind it.

Good Luck,

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg

May sound strange, but I prefer the old cutoff wheels which come in a plastic tube to the new reinforced ones. The new ones are thicker, and take longer to cut. And, since they're also larger in diameter, they're not as versatile in tight spaces. Just keep your face away from the rotational plane of the disk- they do shatter.

your ok bob. i see no problem. you dont sound mad. conserned thats all.
as for your camara... heck look at my pics i put up. 10 x;s worst than yours. but i look at it this way. oooo- well. better than nothing.

let me apologize again. I was almost too embarresed to post here again. I just get so frustrated not being able to see to do things that were "relatively" simple. I'm still at it. Trying something else I havent done before.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w96/bob8748/dairycut001.jpg
Thanks Pat for posting how to do this! I would have never thought of it. The front posts dont quite line up but nothing that cant be altered to fit.
Hey toyroy, I prefer the old ones also. I used one for this first but gave too thin a cut. Man, when they brake though they really explode.
I'm tying to put together everything that I learned here all at once it seems. Even went shopping for different stuff last night with my daughter. Couldnt find Future floor wax. Went to Lowes and picked up a bottle of Tile Gaurd acrylic high gloss finish. Slapped a decal on the extra Porshe body (the one I bought for the glass for the last trifecta race). Was worried because it was milky white. I gave it a dip and it is drying to a nice clean wet look as stated on the bottle. I forgot who posted this advice but I learned that here too. Anyway, sorry for the long read and the ranting in my previous posts. All is good.

It's all trial and error, even the best in the world had to start somewhere with trial and error, now git-r-done.

It's all trial and error, even the best in the world had to start somewhere with trial and error, now git-r-done.

Working on it. Thanks! :wave:

I can't totally agree with the statement that maneuvers like your body mod are "all trial and error".
With enough forethought put into your project, as you are obviously doing, you will rule out the majority of "error", and, good planning will substitute for a great deal of the "trial".

If you can envision your final product it's just a matter of retro-engineering the job.
Trial and error are more indicative of projects that are started without detailed planning.

Years ago before I had a Computer when I started doing this I had no idea anyone else had ever thought of Customizing 1/64 Diecast.
I just wanted cars in colors they could not be purchased so I began tearing them apart.
Then came wheel changes, body mods, etc., etc.
Founding good solid ideas and techniques was necessary to complete each job.
For this reason I post all the info I can on boards where I know it will be used.
Now I see more and more people posting in depth reads of their builds.

Once you've developed a specific technique or mastered a maneuver it definitely decreases any odds of trial and error on future builds.

Looking good Bob,

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg

As much as it is great with those helpful hints and knowledge to customize. It's a proven fact in life that everything is "Trial and Error" You can give someone as much detail as possible with step by step and it's still "Trial and Error". Thats how we learn. Everyone has to learn somewhere and going for it, making mistakes and learning from those mistakes will always be apart of customizing. I'm sure most of the best 1/1 customizers in the world never had a detailed step manual on how to customize a car. Each one of them had "Trial and Error" learning from there mistakes and til they become legends of customizing today.

What needs to be understood here is that "Life" or "Customizing", and it's really hard for me to use the two terms in the same sentence, just kidding, is not meant to be learned from zero.
Teachers, Books, Colleges, Schools and Parents all give those who are interested a jump start so knowledge is increased from one generation to the next.
This is what is meant by good planning, information learned is applied resulting in a decrease of failures and and increase in successes.

I won't take the time to argue Trial and Error or the Meaning of Life, I just do my best to impart the information I can.
This way someone doesn't have to start from zero and their chances of success in a specfic endeavor are greatly increased.

I've always stated the info should be shared and should always be FREE.

Good planning or trial and error, let's just say it's a different mindset on approaching things.
No big deal, the Big Deal is the meaning of Life, and that's just to have a good time, lol.

As I said before Bob, your Dairy is looking just fine.
I know that's a lot of work using files to create those holes in the panels.

Looking forward to seeing it once you get the roof hammered down or squeezed together using a vice.
I'll draw up a little tip showing you how to get those front pillars to look right since they will fall a tad short of meeting the body where they used to.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg

i fine all how too's are all trial and error. mostly error untill it is planned out.
and tryed on sample cars. lord i should know with all the junk i have in these boxes.
i think all how too's rate from - newbie - novice - pro- and should be thought out before trying.
pat is only trying to help out not cut him down.
biggest mistake i made in customizing was to jump right in on everything from door hinges to everything being made.
it took me a year to figure out what i was doing wrong. i stepped back and started at the newbie stage again. while doing trial and error projects that ended up in a junk pile only to be used again as i stepped up in progress.

i wish back then that customizers took the time to help me out but was told by pro's to learn on my own. that thay would not help me out in anyway.
that there secreats was theres and not to be given out.
back then customizers were making top dollar on customs and didnt want more people jumping in on there money.
well i did some research and found a site. terry's school of customizing.
great site. and as i learned i met dip on line and later he opened up hot world customs and the info took off.
i learned by hard knocks and my customs were taken a beating by some hard critics... get a life- what a junk- but i never gave up.
i dont never want to be a pro. it's like being in a wild wild west show. theres always someone gunning for ya.
but sometimes ya just have to strap them guns on and walk out and wait.:p
time cures all .take you time and pratice and don't be in a hurry. learn - pratice - and watch and listen. then put your knive down and strap on the biggest gun ya got. :wave:

Gunn you hit the nail right on the head,
We're probably talking about the same timeline where you mention supposed "Pro's" not wanting their ideas to be shared and not wanting others to publicly share tips and techniques.
The first Convention I ever went to I asked some questions at the Customs Contest and was refused.
That pretty much told me all I needed to know about dealing with some people. Not all but some.
Somehow this retentive attitude was supposed to maintain a glass ceiling between those who know and those who wish to know.
Let's just say I swing a big hammer.

I have to say this is what I most adamantly rejected about the "at that time Customizing community's self elected echelon".
I was told to stop writing all those How-To's and stop giving away info.
I think we all know what my response to that was.
To this day the information continues to flow like the Mississippi.

I can name several great Customizers like Mike Hutton hands down King of the DragBus and Rocket Oil, and MilkMan who both will sit down and talk Customs, Tips and Techniques freely and openly.
Both of them passionate enough about our hobby that they want others to improve and learn.

HobbyTalk has always been a two way street of good information.
That's the way it should be.
What glory can there be in creating good Customs if your only edge is withholding information.
DUH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With people now posting How-Tos and detailed procedures those coming online don't have to start out from scratch as we did.
Their learning curve gets a little boost and in the end some of them become the teachers of tomorrow.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/WebsizeMFBlackLabel.jpg

Hey Bob,
Have a look at this,
Here's your original picture.
It shows what will happen when making these types of cuts in front A Pillars.
After the roof is hammered or clamped down to shape it into place the front A pillars will fall just short of their original placement.
In this pic you can se the A Pillar will now meet the body just a tad to the rear of where it originally did.
About 1/16",
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/show-2.jpg

To make the A Pillar look smooth and to make it meet the body correctly you can add some JB Weld or good Putty to the front edge and just feather it in.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/show-3.jpg

Now to make the rear edge of the A Pillar look correct along with the window opening, you can use a small rat tail file or half round (crescent) file to remove some of the back edge of the pillar.
This way you get rid of any unsightly overhang and bring the A Pillar back into shape as it looked originally.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/show-4.jpg

To clarify things for any other readers,
JBWeld is not used to hold the roof down into place as it sits in a vice.
To correctly rake the roof it must be lightly hammered into place or forced into shape with a vice.
Remember to use a rubber pad as a dampener to protect the body from the hammer.
Or use a rubber mallet.
This is all done before filling the joints.
The JBWeld or Putty are used only as filler.
Try to use only enough JB Weld to fill the joint so your final filing and sanding will be easier to do.
Then clean it up with some 220 and then 400.

A good idea is to use a small Testors paint brush to paint in small amounts of primer over your filled joints to see what kind of job you've done.

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Rt66SilverBulletWebEmail.jpg

Thanks Pat. Thats cool the way you added the colored details. Sort of what I had in mind. Thinking back to the way you made the bone shaker hood cut smaller then the cut. I did get rid of that bent roof trim line.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w96/bob8748/chopped2002.jpg. It looked bad to me and couldnt live with it. If I dont fix it then it will always bother me. Now to finish sanding the panels out and straighten out the top. Well... not now, The VIKING playoff game is starting... GO VIKES!!!

So Bob,
How's that Dairy coming along??

Any more pics??

--CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/BulletProofWebcopy.jpg

I got a little sidetracked.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w96/bob8748/almost2001.jpg
This one has a ways to go yet and has an upcoming deadline to make.