For you guys into building your own home built slave motor dyno's,that utlilize a Tomy Turbo can motor as your slave motor.Pop the endbell off the can and shim the arm fairly tight,just leave enough clearance so the arm will spin freely.
It seems to help stablize the output of the slave motor,especially if you are using a digital multi-meter to read your output voltage.

I prefer to do my dyno work on the track.The banked oval really shows if you have SPEED!

Not much to building one Blub,a piece of track,glue the slave motor at right angles to the chassis,mount a tire on the slave,back the car you want to dyno up against the wheel mounted on the slave motor, hook a pair of test leads from your multi-meter to the slave motor,put power to the track rails to drive the cars arm,and voila you have a cheap homebuilt dyno:wave:
If you have 2 multi-meters you can hook another inline with your power supply and also get amp draw readings at the same time.
I've used wallwarts to power them.If you don't have a good adjustable power supply,install a normal cheap household light dimmer switch into a electrical box with a plug receptacle,plug your wallwart into it,and you also have a cheap homebuilt variable power supply to power your dyno with,it's not a perfect adjustable power supply,but for a homebuilt dyno and break-in box,they'll work good.
The cheapest adjustable wallwart i built was for a buddy,it used an old 3 wire grounded extension cord,i cut the outer sheathing open,spliced the dimmer switch into the black (hot) wire and green (ground)wire,wire nutted it together,then black taped and duct taped it right to the extension cord,then plugged an old Tyco wallwart into the other end of the cord,cut the tyco plug off the end of the wallwart,and soldered a set of insulated alligator clips to the ends,it was pretty hooky looking but it was cheap and worked great for him.

like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-809F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-862F.jpg

Perzactly:thumbsup:
GoodWrench,i've built a few of these over the years,and i've taken to gluing another rail flat side up,on top of the orginal rails,gives the car more rail to stick to,and the flat rail is easier to solder to.
I pulled the rails out of old pieces of Life Like cross-over tracks to use as my rail,but any cross-over style of track should have a fairly wide rail that you can pull up and turn on it's side then JB weld to the top of the orginal rails
I like the extra slave with the pot for loading the chassis,good idea,as you can still get a voltage reading,i've got a pot wired into mine,but i only use the one slave motor,so the voltage output readings take a shit kicking when you max out the pot,your way is much better

This looked like a pretty good design.. I'd like to make one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110329839579

http://home.pacbell.net/pgiganti/MeterDyno1.jpg

http://home.pacbell.net/pgiganti/MeterDyno2.jpg

Not a bad looking setup. :thumbsup: rr

This is also a neat little unit

http://dyno.homestead.com/

Neat.. Thanks for sharing Hornet.

Looks like he is using a sizzler rear end as the slave motor.. very nice construction.

Neat.. Thanks for sharing Hornet.

Looks like he is using a sizzler rear end as the slave motor.. very nice construction.

That is basically the same as what you posted but it has a digital display, They all use the same principle as the one I built, a slave motor that is used as a generator to give you the readings