hey!looking fo advice on products for body work on slotcar bodies.putties,resins,patching stuff,whatever...gotta franken car in the works that i need to do some filler on...its hard plastic aurora/tyco bodies bonded together with zap glue,if that helps...

Bob...the builder...zilla swears by green squadron putty. I believe Bob...so I picked some up today! :thumbsup:

Bob...the builder...zilla swears by green squadron putty. I believe Bob...so I picked some up today! :thumbsup:
is that stuff like green milliput?they use it alot in england for lead miniature wargame figurines...

Milliput is a 2 part putty (equal parts essential for proper drying) that you knead together parts A and B. Squadron putty comes right out of the tube. Milliput can be helped to smooth out with small amounts of water. Squadron can be thinned with liquid model cement to give more working time. M-Putty supposedly shrinks less than SQ-Putty. Both have their fans and detractors. I thought M-put was a pain (personally) due to the mixing and mess with the water, but it has a modeling clay consistency which lends itself to be better suited for certain jobs. (still don't like it though)... SQ-Putty is more like peanut butter and without thinning skims over pretty fast. With practice and the proper tools at arms reach, you can get it where it needs to be. I also use 2 part 5 min epoxy. If the situation allows, I apply drops of it and "puddle in" areas where I need it or gradually build it up. It dries very hard very fast and can be sanded, but you must know when you can get away with using it on that certain area. For 5 min epoxy I can show you 2 examples where "puddling" and a layering "skin and bones" build-up worked for me. A third and fourth example is my Camaro on which I used 2 methods. The front was filled/shaped with epoxy and the rear by using SQ-Putty.

Best to try a few tests of several products and see which you like to work with better. nd

The buggy nose and sides were first prepared with a skeleton of styrene stock. This kept the epoxy from running all over. I built up and filled the low spots and cracks. Then I sanded them to get the shape I was after. The Cheetah ragtop was no more than a base of sheet styrene under the open cockpit area and then a piece of styrene across the rear to dam up the puddle spot. Surface tension (like you see with a drop of water on a hard surface) and fast drying time aided in the forming of the initial "hump". Then I sanded it down to size.

There are modeling forums where I have seen people explain how they use automotive fillers and some guys even use Porc-A-Fill (not porc-a-fix) which normally is used for sinks. Some even use scrap sprues and bits of leftover plastic to fill/build up areas, then they sand them down. Be careful though, some products can attack plastic too!! Good Luck. nd

couple of threads elsewhere....

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=111677&page=1

http://cs.finescale.com/forums/929719/ShowPost.aspx

Thanks for posting the techniques and great looking cars, TJR! It is cool to see the different ways the HTmeisters use to achieve their results. Putty, epoxy, goop, resin casting, LEDs, etc all come together on HT to bring major slot goodness!

Hutts always be learning sumtin

The buggy nose and sides were first prepared with a skeleton of styrene stock. This kept the epoxy from running all over. I built up and filled the low spots and cracks. Then I sanded them to get the shape I was after. The Cheetah ragtop was no more than a base of sheet styrene under the open cockpit area and then a piece of styrene across the rear to dam up the puddle spot. Surface tension (like you see with a drop of water on a hard surface) and fast drying time aided in the forming of the initial "hump". Then I sanded it down to size.

There are modeling forums where I have seen people explain how they use automotive fillers and some guys even use Porc-A-Fill (not porc-a-fix) which normally is used for sinks. Some even use scrap sprues and bits of leftover plastic to fill/build up areas, then they sand them down. Be careful though, some products can attack plastic too!! Good Luck. nd

couple of threads elsewhere....

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=111677&page=1

http://cs.finescale.com/forums/929719/ShowPost.aspx

wow.nice work!i have been out of the modelling thing for awhile,i used to teach kids how to paint in miniature at a hobby shop when i was a kid!it'll be fun trying to transfer those old skills and techniques to slot modelling!too bad i don't have any carrs with drivers that need a paint job,then i'd rock!course,my eyes ain't what they were when i was 18...lol btw,great threads,took me back to when me and my dad would build planes and military models together...

ok.so heres step one...took the junk front tyco corvette body,that was missing a rear..dremel,cleaned up the seam.cut the back off a junker a/fx camaro,and superglued em together.let's see if i can get the photos on...nope.my file size is too big,damn!any suggestions?

Open an account on photobucket... Upload the pictures on there, and use the link on there to post pictures here. Before you upload a picture, check the size on photobucket. 640 x 480 is good, the next larger size will work also.

Another trick for photo sizing is to use a photo editor. I use a free download called Irfanview. It is very versatile, is upgraded periodically and is FREE. Please see the link below.

http://www.irfanview.com/

Hutts are cheap bastiges... :drunk::hat::freak::dude:

Another trick for photo sizing is to use a photo editor. I use a free download called Irfanview. It is very versatile, is upgraded periodically and is FREE. Please see the link below.

http://www.irfanview.com/

Hutts are cheap bastiges... :drunk::hat::freak::dude:

thanks for the suggestions!i think an 90's vette with an 80's camaro rear is gonna look cool.

Another trick for photo sizing is to use a photo editor. I use a free download called Irfanview. It is very versatile, is upgraded periodically and is FREE. Please see the link below.

http://www.irfanview.com/

Hutts are cheap bastiges... :drunk::hat::freak::dude:

thanks for the suggestions!i think an 90's vette with an 80's camaro rear is gonna look coolhttp://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1460.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1458.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1456.jpg

ok,got some help with posting photos from my wife.i am no good with computers,so after much swearing and consternation i gave in and got her help.when in doubt...sigh...

ok,got some help with posting photos from my wife.i am no good with computers,so after much swearing and consternation i gave in and got her help.when in doubt...sigh...

That is how I learned computer stuff...sigh...hahahahah

Your Vette Camaro build looks great! It is great to see some fresh custom builds. Welcome aboard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bob...the builder...zilla swears by green squadron putty. I believe Bob...so I picked some up today! :thumbsup:

Joez,

Yes it is great stuff (green Squadron putty)
Since finding out that it can be smoothed
like Bill Halls goop with Testors liquid glue, I will
be using it more often.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aafinky6.jpg

Here is a picture of the back end before any sanding has been done.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aafinky4.jpg

Here is a picture of the back sanded. I will need to go back with a toothbrush
and scrub out the dust. Then just put some green putty on my finger to fill in
the small holes left from the first step.

This Putty was used here as it was easy to block sand for this large flat (wasn't when I started) area.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aasee2.jpg

The rear window holes were (they allowed for surfboards to go into) filled in with Bill Halls Goop method. The goop will ensure a secure hole fill.

http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc339/1970peaches/aasee1.jpg

You can also see the low spots on the cabs roof that will be goop filled and floated level since it is a small area.

Everybody has there own ways of ho scale body works and they are all good. The real trick is to not end up pulling
out all your hair in this, some times tedious process so, just stop and go eat a snack or something once in a while.

Nuther Dave I still dig that Dune Buggy and Cheetah Big Time!

Bob...dare to be different...zilla

thanks bob!i used to use a different kind of putty when i was a kid building kits with my dad,but it smelled awful!yeah,my wife helps alot with the computer stuff,i am a ludite...lol!yeah i think the frankenvette will turn out cool,if my two left thumbs don't botch things up too bad...i want to leave the corvette logo on the window and the camaro logo on the rear,for fun.too bad the rear glass is so botched up...gotta buff the hell out of it i guess...more to come soon!and thanks everyone for the tips!

Bondo, Bondo, Bondo. You can get a small can and hardner just about anywhere. Squadran putty is good for like patching small holes that are not in stress. SP is soft stuff, very easily sanded. Bondo dries hard, has some strength to it and works great with plastic. It IS plastic.

Bondo, Bondo, Bondo. You can get a small can and hardner just about anywhere. Squadran putty is good for like patching small holes that are not in stress. SP is soft stuff, very easily sanded. Bondo dries hard, has some strength to it and works great with plastic. It IS plastic.

i imagine it would sand out better aswell?i want to recreate the 66 split rear window on my frankenvette.basically the idea behind this build is to give some old school vette lines to the unfortunate wedge that the corvette became..trying to mix old with new,as it were...plus i botched the rear glass,so why not make the rear split window ?and btw,how sculptable is it?

Open an account on photobucket... Upload the pictures on there, and use the link on there to post pictures here. Before you upload a picture, check the size on photobucket. 640 x 480 is good, the next larger size will work also.

It also works well in other "size sensative" sites. Plus I can go back and reopen them to view or alter. It also has video as well. It's FREE

The best spot putty on the planet is "Sikkens Kombi Putty" however you have to get it from an automotive paint jobber that sells Sikkens products. One tube will last forever - literally. I still have the same tube that I bought about 15 years ago and there's still plenty left. It dries quick, doesn't shrink and sands easily. There are other brands that use the same 'kombi putty' term, but they're nowhere near as good as Sikkens.

Also, I used to buy the smallest container of Evercoat body filler to use to fill larger sections, but after having a couple of containers go bad (they have a limited shelf life once opened, even though they are a two-part product) I've since used epoxy to fill in the larger areas and then skim the top with the aforementioned Sikkens Kombi Putty. Works like a charm!

i imagine it would sand out better aswell?i want to recreate the 66 split rear window on my frankenvette.basically the idea behind this build is to give some old school vette lines to the unfortunate wedge that the corvette became..trying to mix old with new,as it were...plus i botched the rear glass,so why not make the rear split window ?and btw,how sculptable is it?

Depending on hot "hot" you mix the two part bondo, there is a small time window where you can work it. The bondo is a grey color, the hardner is dark red. When mixed the color ranges from light pink, to red with red being the hottest or quickest setting up. It depends on how much hardner you mix into the grey. I like to use a medium pink color mixture. The mixture starts out pretty runny, about like a thick milkshake. As you work it you can tell when it starts to harden. You should have you basic shape done by then. After that point, about a minute or two depending on the thickness, you can sculpt it with a knife for a little while, again you can tell when it is getting harder. After sculpting stage, in about twenty minutes, you can sand it. It doesn't hurt to wait longer to sand because Bondo will shrink a bit, again depending on the thickness. That should get you into the ballpark.

It also works well in other "size sensative" sites. Plus I can go back and reopen them to view or alter. It also has video as well. It's FREE

yeah,i went with photobucket..

The best spot putty on the planet is "Sikkens Kombi Putty" however you have to get it from an automotive paint jobber that sells Sikkens products. One tube will last forever - literally. I still have the same tube that I bought about 15 years ago and there's still plenty left. It dries quick, doesn't shrink and sands easily. There are other brands that use the same 'kombi putty' term, but they're nowhere near as good as Sikkens.

Also, I used to buy the smallest container of Evercoat body filler to use to fill larger sections, but after having a couple of containers go bad (they have a limited shelf life once opened, even though they are a two-part product) I've since used epoxy to fill in the larger areas and then skim the top with the aforementioned Sikkens Kombi Putty. Works like a charm!

how much working time does it have?i have been out of the scratchbuilding thing for some time now,so need the extra time to practice...

how much working time does it have?i have been out of the scratchbuilding thing for some time now,so need the extra time to practice...

About five minutes I would guess.....it depends on the temperature and humidity. Again, I use epoxy for major filling and just use the spot putty for a skim coat so I'm usually just giving it a swipe and then coming back to sand it after about 10 minutes or so. I wouldn't use it for anything big enough to require 'working'.

I would recommend playing around with various products on scrap bodies and see what works the best for you. That's pretty much how we ALL learned - lots of trial and error (more error than trial, usually).

About five minutes I would guess.....it depends on the temperature and humidity. Again, I use epoxy for major filling and just use the spot putty for a skim coat so I'm usually just giving it a swipe and then coming back to sand it after about 10 minutes or so. I wouldn't use it for anything big enough to require 'working'.

I would recommend playing around with various products on scrap bodies and see what works the best for you. That's pretty much how we ALL learned - lots of trial and error (more error than trial, usually).

yeah,i am thinking putty is gonna be the way to go for what i need...i am worried about the ass end slidin around like a 935 though,from the extra weight of the putty ...

so an interesting thing with my frankenvette...i have the two halves joined puttied and under coated.i was complaining to my wife about my sanding marks showing through...she suggested i take foil from a cigarette pack to do my sanding,and voila!smooth as silk,at least close anyway.it sounds funny,but it worked really well as a light abrasive...glad my tm is getting involved!lol!

' Bondo.. Fix all in a tube..
Great to see some new hackers.. I mean custom Guru's on the board..
I agree with everyone. I use Green putty also. I have tried the stuff for body work.
Spot putty. Works good for small repairs but the green works the best for puttys..

well,after undercoating and spraying,i managed to botch my first custom pretty good!into the pinesol,and i'll try again with better paint...i am practicing with this one to learn on so when i paint my tycopro vette it'll turn out better...blotchy frickin spray bombs!!!

so,i got my frankenvette outta the pinesol,broke down and went out in the rain to get me some 3502 testors.so now i am skimming away happily,might be able to save it yet!

Aaaaaaaaaaaah the Pine Sol jar...oh noooooooooooo *Ker Plunk*

Happens all the time to me. Got paint? Yep no problem-o just Phsssssssssssssssssht it again and keep on keeping on.

Bob...saved by the skim...zilla

so heres how shes coming with the testors...right now i am just trying to smooth out the joint where i grafted it...http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1589.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1584.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1581.jpg

ok!heres some more pics if anyones interested.i decided to go with an old school rear,without the "hatchback" look.took some plastic and built up the opening from the inside and filled with squadron green...still a long way to go,but's starting to get there...http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1594.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1592.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1591.jpg

This is getting interesting!!! Kinda like a vette elcamino... Getting there!! :thumbsup:

i am kinda goin for that 1970 look on the back,but really small tight cockpit...besides i think it looks more like a vette and less like a camaro that way.i like the vette camino idea though!http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1599.jpg
http://i554.photobucket.com/albums/jj434/slotnewbie69/DSCN1596.jpg