I'm trying to get my tranny as smooth as possible.

I run the MIP ball diff and the Losi Double Slipper clutch.

I cleaned up my tranny, cleaned and lubed the bearings a ton, and everything is supersmooth until I go and tighten up the dual slipper. I tighten it until I can barely move the spur when I hold both wheels. When I tighten the clutch up, the tranny starts working pretty stiff.

My impression is that when I tighten the clutch, pressure is added on to the bearing behind the spur. I tried glueing the clutch discs to the spur and sanding the pressure plates so to get less slip with less pressure but it doesn't help much.

I'm just tempted to glue the pressure plates down too so that the ball diff acts as a clutch but I'm afraid that'll make the diff loosen itself or just burn up.

Is there a better slipper clutch system out there that doesn't bind up the bearing behind the spur?

Am I too fussy with those things?

Sounds like you have the sliper to tight. Just set it looser then tighten it in small increments until you have it where you want it.

That shouldn't be the case.
Any of mine (all four of them) have always worked freely, unless I've overtightened the diffcase screws (that attach the two halves) which will make the gearbox act stiff. I solve that by tightening them until snug (not tight-tight), and then back them off 1/4 turn.

By tightening the slipper is DOES NOT (or should not) add any pressure to the bearing behind the tranny side slipper plate as it does not go on far enough to do that.

BUT - it sounds as if you might have missed having installed the alum.tube/spacer between the two top shaft bearings?
That would tighten things up as you tightened the DD Slipper.

The MIP and DD Slipper should both work fine if adjusted to the factory-recommended settings: MIP = tighten until tight, back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn; DD Slipper = tighten until tight, back off 4 (four) complete turns.

[quote=mini_racer;2638212]That shouldn't be the case.
Any of mine (all four of them) have always worked freely, unless I've overtightened the diffcase screws (that attach the two halves) which will make the gearbox act stiff. I solve that by tightening them until snug (not tight-tight), and then back them off 1/4 turn. I'll check that...

By tightening the slipper is DOES NOT (or should not) add any pressure to the bearing behind the tranny side slipper plate as it does not go on far enough to do that.

BUT - it sounds as if you might have missed having installed the alum.tube/spacer between the two top shaft bearings? It's on there, that's the 1st thing I reinstalled after noticing my issue but it hasn't changed a thing.
That would tighten things up as you tightened the DD Slipper.

The MIP and DD Slipper should both work fine if adjusted to the factory-recommended settings: MIP = tighten until tight, back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn; wow, I always have to tighten right until it's tight, and mot back if off any, or else it just slips terribly DD Slipper = tighten until tight, back off 4 (four) complete turns. Wow, 4 complete turns??? Maybe that's why I have to tighten the ball diff...

What motors and batteries do you run? We run 6800kv's with lipos. Maybe we're asking too much from those little cars...

Thanks for your help

...oh, and we run em with foams on carpet too. So we have no wheelspin to act as a ''slipper clutch'' lol

That shouldn't be the case.
Any of mine (all four of them) have always worked freely, unless I've overtightened the diffcase screws (that attach the two halves) which will make the gearbox act stiff. I solve that by tightening them until snug (not tight-tight), and then back them off 1/4 turn. I'll check that...

By tightening the slipper is DOES NOT (or should not) add any pressure to the bearing behind the tranny side slipper plate as it does not go on far enough to do that.

BUT - it sounds as if you might have missed having installed the alum.tube/spacer between the two top shaft bearings? It's on there, that's the 1st thing I reinstalled after noticing my issue but it hasn't changed a thing.
That would tighten things up as you tightened the DD Slipper.

The MIP and DD Slipper should both work fine if adjusted to the factory-recommended settings: MIP = tighten until tight, back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn; wow, I always have to tighten right until it's tight, and mot back if off any, or else it just slips terribly DD Slipper = tighten until tight, back off 4 (four) complete turns. Wow, 4 complete turns??? Maybe that's why I have to tighten the ball diff...

What motors and batteries do you run? We run 6800kv's with lipos. Maybe we're asking too much from those little cars...

Thanks for your help

The diff itself really needs to be set, and other than some miniscule fine tuning adjustments, then left alone.
Use the slipper to adjust wheelspin and/or wheelieing. If you have it set too tight you're tuning it into a locker and it will make the diff scream.

I'm running a 3s LiPO and a 6800kv in one of mine, and I would guess if it works fine pulling that kind of power on ozite using foams without excess slippage or wear you should be able to as well. :thumbsup:

Let me know if you're having any other trouble. :)

I'll keep you posted, thanks.

Last time at the race event ,i have the same problem with my tranny.My tranny is noisy on track and stiff in my hand .After 2 hours of working it,i found the problem : aluminum tube spacer is riveted on both side :freak:.The length is 0.245 and i add one shim from BRP and work good after.I pick a new DD slipper tomorrow at my LHS and i take a mesure of new aluminum spacer.With K&S aluminum tubing available,i make some spare with my lathe.

Frank D:wave:

i found the problem : aluminum tube spacer is riveted on both side

Not sure what you mean by "riveted", but if you mean crimped that could have come as a result of overtightening the Slipper and running it that way.

Be careful to use the factory-recommended specs. :thumbsup:


Let us know how it goes

"Crimped" is a good word too to explain my problem with this spacer tube:thumbsup:

Thanks mini-racer for all tips in this thread.I never seen the factory setting for DD slipper before,maybe is the big part of my last problem:o.

Frank D:wave:

"Crimped" is a good word too to explain my problem with this spacer tube:thumbsup:

Thanks mini-racer for all tips in this thread.I never seen the factory setting for DD slipper before,maybe is the big part of my last problem:o.

Frank D:wave:


Happy to help Frank --- a just a tip, the MIP balldiff and the Losi DD Slipper both come with instruction sheets that have "factory-recommended starting adjustment settings" on them. ;)
Too often people are in too much of a hurry to install the part they totally overlook, or don't read, the instructions and could have save themselves a lot of trouble just by reading the directions (fully) beforehand. :)


Also take note of what I mentioned earlier about scewing the diff case halves together too tightly (tighten till snug, not tight but snug, and back off 1/4 turn)... it's really easy to get carried away, or manhandling, these little tiny screws on the little tiny cars.