I've posted a couple ramblings about de-tuning the Mega-G chassis and though that starting a thread on just that might give us all a plave to share ideas.

I've has one on the track and it is WAY too fast for my 4x8 layout. I have the voltage down to 10v just in an attempt to keep the wings on it. I've read that these just get faster as the brushes seat too!

Removing one or both of the traction magnets dosen't cut it at all. It gets real light in front w/o the traction magnets.

A pair of weights to replace the magnets is next on my list, but it may take a while to fabricate some that fit.

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

The 4 ohm Tyco arm would be cheap (the whole chassis is $3).

I'm running 90 ohm Parma controllers. The more I lower the voltage, the further the trigger pulls before the car moves. At 12v it uses less than half the resistor. At 10v it feels like an on/off switch.

I'll have to wire up one the 45 ohm controllers I have in the box.

No, the G-Jet arm does not work in the Mega-G.

The Mega G uses an Aurora G-Plus/Tyco/Wizzard/Slottech timed arm, as opposed to a Tomy Turbo/SG+ timed arm. I'm not sure 9 ohm arm would help much unless you could also get some ceramic traction magnets.

The Mega G needs current to generate enough torque to move those magnets, which means a lower resistance controller. The 90 ohm is not a good choice at all for this application. I experimented with running Mega Gs at 18V and 12V with 45 ohm, 60 ohm, and 90 ohm Parma Econo controllers.

Based on my experiments I think you will be happy running the Mega G at 12V with a 45 ohm controller, without brakes. It will still have enough top end to get in trouble but the range of control is still good. You could try going a little higher or lower on the voltage to adjust for your layout, but 12V seems like a pretty good compromise.

Restrictor Plate Racin' comes to HO. Gotta do something to protect the fans from these little missles! Seriously, this is a very good thread. We all need to be able to dial this little jewel into our own tracks so we can support Wahoo's fantastic effort to bring us all major slot car goodness! Wahoo for secretary of Slot Car Racing!!!!!

Hutts are easy to get stoked! :drunk::hat::freak::dude:

. I'm not sure 9 ohm arm would help much unless you could also get some ceramic traction magnets.
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You can! I had some made....

I wanted to de-tune my Mega-G. The most effecient way I came up with is to replace the complete running chassis with a Super III. This produces greatly reduced performance. The body needs some small alteration however...

:drunk::hat::freak::dude:

Montoya1, how did they work out performance wise? Handling is a concern. I'm finding the Mega G a bit light in the nose even with the neos. Look at the stock stance! I'd imagine with ceramic magnets you would have to drop the front end down a ton. So far my box stock SRTs are still turning more laps than the Mega Gs, but we'll have to see how this plays out as we learn more about the car.

A properly set up Super III would be roughly equivalent to Mega G in performance, so I don't think it would buy you much in any relief from the speed. Putting adjustable brushes on the Super III was a daring move for AW, and it cost them. Once you get that figured out and adjust the shoes so they run flat, and lock the traction magnets at the right height, it is a very fast chassis, although the bodies are tanks compared to the open wheeled bodies on the MG.

Once it became apparent that the MG with my ceramic magnets would not live with a Tyco, I switched to playing around with the car in stock form.

Roger Corrie has some of them, and one other guy, and I would be happy to sell the rest to guys exploring this 12V low downforce idea....

I've posted a couple ramblings about de-tuning the Mega-G chassis and though that starting a thread on just that might give us all a plave to share ideas.

I've has one on the track and it is WAY too fast for my 4x8 layout. I have the voltage down to 10v just in an attempt to keep the wings on it. I've read that these just get faster as the brushes seat too!

Removing one or both of the traction magnets dosen't cut it at all. It gets real light in front w/o the traction magnets.

A pair of weights to replace the magnets is next on my list, but it may take a while to fabricate some that fit.

I was afraid of that. A scenery busting blur car, but great for the larger magnet type tracks out of the box. I was hoping a lower voltage would be all that is needed. Lead used in fishing weights is very soft and can be formed to fit I bet. I was looking at a riggen pic and I saw what looked to be a brass button placed over the front guide to hold the front end down. Might help here also.

Finding the same as AfxToo, light front not as good as my SRT yet. Still have some room to lower the fronts to see if it helps....and the rear tires also as compared to my SRT on a test track.