What's the difference between these chassis?

The SRT is an AFX Racing Turbo with neo magnets added (SRT = Super Racing Turbo). It's a can motor chassis so the motor box is sealed. It's the new entry level chassis for AFX.

The SG+ is more of a racer. The front bulkhead swivels on the motor, allowing timing adjustments. The SG+ does not used a sealed can motor. The SG+ is a step up from the SRT and is a little more involved when it comes time to tune them.

Others can probably add more, but that's the basics in a nutshell. The neo magnets on the SRT allow it run competitive times vs the SG+, but ultimately, the SG+ can be built faster.

You mean Super G Plus, correct?

You mean Super G Plus, correct?

Yes, so out of the box they are comparable speed wise? I just picked up the Long Beach set and a GT40 SRT because I'm not a huge open wheel fan.

Out of the box, the SRT has an edge since its stock tires are better than those on the SG+. This will be especially true on a short, twisty track. On a long track with sweeping turns and 8 - 12 fooot straights, the SG+ should strut its stuff. The two cars have different gearing.

Newer (gray) SG+ chassis are much more durable than the older black ones which crack and break easily. SRT chassis seem pretty rugged and you don't have to worry about cracking a body mount like you do with the SG+. The speeds are comparable on my track on a 12x6 table. SRT chassis are less expensive if all you want to do is basement racing. You can get 10 for $105 from Budshocars.com, pop some AutoWorld or older Johnny Lightning bodies on them.

Of course, the $2.98 440-X2 chassis deal from Mattel is the best deal around for basement track racers. Tyco bodies to fit those chassis are usually around $10 and up.

I have a couple Tyco Vipers already.

Am I correct in saying the older Aurora AFX bodys fit the SRT chassis?

I just answered my own question. I had read somewhere the old AFX bodys fit the SRT chassis. I decided to find out for myself. I found they do in fact fit, although, it is a very loose fit at best. Any suggestions on shimming?

The two cars have different gearing.

The SRT has the same gearing as the SG+, 7/25. The Turbo is 7/22.

How a particular body fits on a particular chassis varies considerably, there is no blanket statement that covers all possible combinations, at least outside of the open wheeled bodies. You have to try it for yourself or find someone who has tried to fit a specific body on a specific chassis. Even though the body mount is the same for most AFX cars and clones the chassis geometries between the Aurora A/FX, Aurora Magnatraction and JL/AW XT, Aurora G-Plus (with integral mounts and with adapter clip), Tomy Turbo/SRT, and Tomy SG+ and the bodies designed for them are very different. I've found that some bodies look and fit much better on one type of chassis versus another. For example, the AW 1971 Charger, 1969 Daytona Charger, and 1972 GTX look pretty sad on their stock XT chassis but look great on a Tomy Turbo or SRT. Some combinations just will not work. Any body that has standoffs molded into the body (or window glass like some AWs do) will probably not fit well or at all on any chassis other than the original. Even third party bodies like Dash's fit better on one type of chassis over another. The Dash racing Camaros look like a million bucks on an SRT chassis.

Finally, some older bodies get stretched out a little for one reason or another and are way too loose on anything except a A/FX, MT, or XT chassis. I have some older Camaros (not the original A/FX ones) and AP Corvettes that are floppy on any Tomy chassis. I tried the hot water trick, putting them in very hot water, then squeezing the side inward while running under cold water. It tightened them up a bit, but not good enough to run on a Tomy chassis. It's not just an AFX thing either. I have a Tyco body, the #43 Petty Pontiac that came with the SuperBird in an HP7 twin pack that falls right off of any chassis other than an HP7 or HP2.

A few people already hit on the performance aspect. The only thing I would add is that the box stock SRT vs. SG+ thing is highly track dependent too. On a track with heavy rails and a lot of magnetic downforce the SRT can dominate the SG+. Heck, if you have large enough diameter curves and heavy rails the Turbo can kick butt because of the 7/22 gearing. On tracks with lighter rails, like Tomy, the SRT can feel top heavy in the corners compared to the SG+. But at the end of the day, a race prepped SG+ will generally polish off an SRT handily, especially if the track is technical.

Tycos

At the hobby shop I go to (Park Lane Hobbies) they sell a prodoct in a tube called goo it has the consistency of snot then it dries.It glues the body on but you can still get it off with a flat screwdriver.I use it on my magnatraction,srt,super g-plus and lifelike t chassis.The body only comes off when you want it to.

Seems to be from my limited experience that the SRT cars hold the track better than the Super G plus cars.

Seems to be from my limited experience that the SRT cars hold the track better than the Super G plus cars.

I get that impression too... but I figured that has to do more with the track layout, the controller and how I'm running the car. I have all stock parts- from the wall pack to the crappy controllers that act more like an on / off switch. My feel with my SRT's (Chaparrals, Cobra Daytona and GT40) is that I have a little bit more play with the controller. The SG+'s feel like they rocket launch when I give some juice to them, hence I feel I need to tone them down on my 4x8 layout (a 39 foot layout).

I get that impression too... but I figured that has to do more with the track layout, the controller and how I'm running the car. I have all stock parts- from the wall pack to the crappy controllers that act more like an on / off switch. My feel with my SRT's (Chaparrals, Cobra Daytona and GT40) is that I have a little bit more play with the controller. The SG+'s feel like they rocket launch when I give some juice to them, hence I feel I need to tone them down on my 4x8 layout (a 39 foot layout).

Like you, I find the Tomy chassis way too fast for my 4x8 layout. I just avoided running them and used Magnatractions. The release of the Champ cars on the Ultra-G and the new Clears have compelled me to attempt to detune both the Ultra-G and SRT so they can run on a small track w/o meeting an early death.

I have the black GT40 with silver stripes and a silver Porsche and the Porsche seems faster-running both with .450 silicones. Is there more than one type of gearing available on SRT's or are they all the same? I also got the #14 Goodyear/AFX and it sticks well on stock rubber.

my srt's are fast.too damn fast.i swapped out the old drive train for the super gplus crown and pinions,cause i could only find the super g tune up kits here.on my buddy's drag strip my srt beat his sg + evrytime.don't know why,the arm is the same as an sg +and the gear ratio too,i believe...probably stronger magnets on the sg+creating drag or something.we can't keep his sg + cars on the track,but they do keep the marshals busy!!we have way more fun with our magnatractions,and my tjets.

Not to take this thread too far off topic.. I think the SRT's are the best bang-for-buck magnet toy car ready to run out of the package.

We race SRT's in a "Toy Neo" class.. we run them stock with a stock turbo (22 crown) axle and BSRT light blue slip-ons (I believe .458 diameter) at 13.8 volts. They flat-out fly, but also handle well. We race different body styles each month, so I can tell you bodies do make a big difference to handling characteristics. The Tomy GT40, Porsche 959, Chaparrals, and Daytonas all look great, but are terrible handling bodies due to weight and center of gravity.

my .02 cents.

-Robbie

I bought my son a new 4 lane international set for Christmas and I have been doing some "testing". Some things I have noticed:

Some (stock) controllers are better than others and can allow cars to go MUCH faster. Try them all and pick your favorite.

I run the 3 way power supply at the 12v (lowest) setting and the newer cars are pretty quick. Magnatractions not so fast at this voltage, but they generally don't de-slot.

I have tested 2 brand new box-stock SRT Cobras (not clear) and the black GT40 beside the SG+ open wheel cars and noted that the SRT Cobras and GT40 are MUCH faster at this voltage than the SG+ on both the straights and corners. I have not adjusted the timing on the SG+, and I don't know what they are set at from the factory. I'm sure they would benefit from some fine tuning.

Can anyone post how to change the timing? Is it just a matter of flipping that black bulkhead piece on the front of the motor? I was fiddling with one and didn't see where anything moved.

-mk