View Full Version : 1972 K241-46696d electric problem.


Catskiller
12-20-2008, 03:41 PM
Hello all. I was given a 1972 Ford LGT 100 that has a K241 in it. The guy that gave it to me used to use it all the time to plow and mow with. He just got a new one, so I know it'll go. I have no spark at the plug, so I started with a coil and condencer I had lying around. No luck. I pulled the points cover off and can't see any spark. The points are opening and closing though. I have 12.5 volts on both sides of the coil.

I am at a loss here.

Any help appreiciated.
Thanks,
Mike

paulr44
12-20-2008, 04:01 PM
Test the "old" condensor. It's rated for 3 to 5 microfarads. Inspect the point contacts - are they burned at all? Point gap is 0.020". Ensure there's no oil between the breaker plate and the block, and while you have them out pull the point push-rod out, and check it for being mushroomed, in which case you need a new one. Make sure the coil is connected correctly (primary side) - most will work in either direction but if reversed, the spark jumps from annode to electrode (leg to center terminal) and usually burns the points out in short order. Positive terminal of the coil should be connected to the battery source from the keyswitch, and the points and condensor go to the negative.

Catskiller
12-20-2008, 05:21 PM
Just came back in from the barn. I was cleaning and gapping the points. Got lucky and set'em at 20 :) I should have pulled them out but I didn't. Seem to be working ok though, long open short close, long open short close.......
Guess tomorrow morning I'm pulling the points out for a better look.

Not sure what a microfarad is but will research it.
With only the pigtail from cond. how do you check it? Find a ground?

Wasn't sure about the wiring until you said cond to primary. Phew

paulr44
12-21-2008, 02:25 PM
A multimeter that can test "farads" (capacitance test) is what you'd use.
MUCH cheaper to just buy a new condensor (in actuality, it's a capacitor, just called a condensor).

Catskiller
12-21-2008, 05:52 PM
Copy that. I've got a multimeter, just never heard of checking farads.

Well I was out screwing around with it again today. No luck. Pulled points and cleaned with file, re-gapped. The push rod for the points looks good, no mushroomed end or bent. Traced wiring and found 1 lousy connection, so I fixed that.

I am a driver for an equipment rental company. Tomorrow, I think I'll bring it to work and buy the shop lunch if one of the mechs. can get it going.

Sure gets frustrating. Barn not having heat doesn't help either.
Thanks for the advice. If they get it going, which they prob. will, I will post
what it ended up being.

geogrubb
12-21-2008, 07:53 PM
Catskiller
Here is a trouble shoot pdf for point/condenser ignition systems, ignore the Outboard caption. Have a good one. Geo
http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/electricalpower/B0271b_u.pdf

Catskiller
12-27-2008, 06:04 AM
Well, I took it into work on Tuesday. I asked the mech. if he thought he could figure it out for me, and he looked at me as if I had 3 heads.

I had to make a long run to drop off an excavator and when I got back, he said "If I get this thing running, are you going to buy lunch?" I told him "Heck yeah, name it."

I followed him into the back bay and he started it up, and proceeded to do laps around the building!

I asked him what he did and all he would say was it was a wiring problem. I looked under the cowl and can't find an old wire on it! I think he rewired the whole thing. Even the elec. clutch.

So, we sat down to a $50.00 lunch for me, him, and the boss. Well worth it!

Mike

pyro_maniac69
12-28-2008, 01:55 PM
hey, thats cheaper than bringing it in, I would do that all the time if I was stumped

paulr44
12-29-2008, 12:00 AM
Mike - next time you're stumped, bring it down. I can always use a good lunch...
Paul