What kinda paint do you guys use?

I know the guy that paints my bodies uses Faskolor for airbrushing, & Pactra R/C paint in a can.

JAMMIN

Jamn - Who does your bodies?

I have been told that if you use Fastkolor u need to wait like 24 hrs, then put a coat of pactra over it all. That way the fuel n stuff won't take the fastkolor off.

Scott, Its a guy by the name of J. Rupley Designs. He does all my airbrushing & vinyl. If you would like his #, shoot me a PM & I'll send it your way.

JAMMIN

clear shelfing paper as masking
pactra spray paint

Now that is a great tip!! I would have never thought about using it.:thumbsup:

clear shelfing paper as masking

I do a lot of airbrush and pinstripe work. I use mostly the Pactra Racing Finish for just about everything. I dont however like the airbrush paint that they offer. For airbrushing, I use faskolor or if I am just doing shading with a color I may even use automotive paint. If using Faskolor, you do need to back it with something like Pactra. This is because Fascolor is a waterbased paint. When backing, use light coats, if not the Faskolor will re-activate, run, and mix with the backing color. Scott, you dont have to wait 24hrs. Just wait till it drys and Faskolor drys very quickly in front of a fan. I use it on slot cars. I also recomend some of the Spaz-stix line of paint. They have a cool line of odd ball colors that change color and even chrome!

I bought a vinyl machine a couple years ago to make decals for our real cars and also use it now to make inside stick masks and decals for other guys that are outside stick. I paint probably 3/4s of the guys bodies up here. I have a lot of fun doing it!

Chance

One of the things that I do and helps me a lot because I get impatient, wating on the paint to dry ,I preheat the paint [cans] and pre heat the body with a hair dryer ,After the paint is layed on one coat at a time I dry the paint with the hair dryer [each coat ], It helps stop the paint from tryin to bleed under the maskin tape ,I use a good Quality maskin tape from [NAPA ] , It goes fast doing that way for me or I am not standing there watchin paint dry ,Robert :thumbsup:

I just give my body to Chance with Phobia Kustom Painting and let him have at it.

What kinda paint do you guys use?
Scott, I painted all of Herbbies stuff last year.
I used Createx and AutoAir.
I backed it with a clear Acrylic from Home Depot.
I use a heat gun to dry and went from color to color until I needed a break.
Didn't take long at all.
You should see the Nastruck I did for him for Atlanta.
Looks pretty cool.

Doorman #40 (Tracy R.):cool:

Scott, I painted all of Herbbies stuff last year.
I used Createx and AutoAir.
I backed it with a clear Acrylic from Home Depot.
I use a heat gun to dry and went from color to color until I needed a break.
Didn't take long at all.
You should see the Nastruck I did for him for Atlanta.
Looks pretty cool.

Doorman #40 (Tracy R.):cool:


Tracy - Do you mean this truck?

Scott, I painted all of Herbbies stuff last year.
I used Createx and AutoAir.
I backed it with a clear Acrylic from Home Depot.
I use a heat gun to dry and went from color to color until I needed a break.
Didn't take long at all.
You should see the Nastruck I did for him for Atlanta.
Looks pretty cool.

Doorman #40 (Tracy R.):cool:


Btw - I'm glad you bought a car and will be racin' w/us @ Freddie's full time in 09! See u soon. :wave:

I use the Faskolor paint and then seal it with there Faskote and don't seen to have any problems with the fuel bothering it!!!...

DD

Tracy - Do you mean this truck?

I bet it didnt look like that after the race!

That be the one! That thing looks pretty good.
I never got to see it mounted. WOW!

Yeah, I'm glad I finally got one also.
I am looking very forward to being @ at the track and getting to race with you guy's.
John's car is a nice piece and I couldn't pass up the deal.

Talk to you soon.
Doorman # 40:cool:

I bet it didnt look like that after the race!
Herbbie said it came home with a couple of wheel rubs and didn't get real beat up.

I'm glad he mounted it on the #51 car chassis.
If it was on his usual ride w/ Herbbized custom shocks, it would came home in a basket.

Doorman:cool:

LOL i've only taken one home in a basket. it wasn't fun.



Herbbie said it came home with a couple of wheel rubs and didn't get real beat up.

I'm glad he mounted it on the #51 car chassis.
If it was on his usual ride w/ Herbbized custom shocks, it would came home in a basket.

Doorman:cool:

That is a nice paint job on the truck. i just love the silver and blue together.
don't know why. nice flames too.

I bet doorman has the best paint job at freddies this coming year.
I like good paint job. just hate doing it. LOL

Is Faskolor airbrush only?

Yes Faskolor is only airbrush. They do make quite a few different colors. I wouldnt recomend using it for the quarterscale application unless you are doing some design stuff or shading or something. Airbrushing a whole 1/4 scale body would take a long time! Spaztix comes in an aerosol can though.

As a side note, I WOULDNT recomend usinging anything other than paint that is specifically made for lexan. To my knowledge Racing Finish (pactra), Faskolor, Tamiya, Spaztix, and the new House of Kolor lines, are the only lexan paint out there. These paints have what they call a "flex addative" in them that allows the paint to flex with the deflection of a lexan body. Paints such as your local Walmart Krylon and or Rustoleum dont contain these and the paint will adhere ok at first but flake off when hit. Krylon makes a plastic paint that works but in my opinion doesnt have enough flex addative for our application.


Chance
Phobia Kustom Painting
ROCKIT Motorsports

Yes Faskolor is only airbrush. They do make quite a few different colors. I wouldnt recomend using it for the quarterscale application unless you are doing some design stuff or shading or something. Airbrushing a whole 1/4 scale body would take a long time! Spaztix comes in an aerosol can though.

As a side note, I WOULDNT recomend usinging anything other than paint that is specifically made for lexan. To my knowledge Racing Finish (pactra), Faskolor, Tamiya, Spaztix, and the new House of Kolor lines, are the only lexan paint out there. These paints have what they call a "flex addative" in them that allows the paint to flex with the deflection of a lexan body. Paints such as your local Walmart Krylon and or Rustoleum dont contain these and the paint will adhere ok at first but flake off when hit. Krylon makes a plastic paint that works but in my opinion doesnt have enough flex addative for our application.


Chance
Phobia Kustom Painting
ROCKIT Motorsports

Where can u find Spaztix colors? Is there a web site?

http://www.spazstix.com/index.php

I have used automotive paints for 14 years and never had a problem. You can add the flexative agent to these but I do not. Key is to NOT saturate the lexan with paint. If you apply the laquer too thick or wet it will saturate the lexan and make it brittle. Light coats allowing the laquer solvents to evaporate between coats will prevent this. Pactra paints are laquer with as Chance said the flexative already added. These cans sell at 5.29 in hobby shops. Automotive laquer such as Duplicolor come in cans that are much larger and sell for about the same price at Meijer and Wal-Mart stores. They do Not contain the flex agent.

http://www.spazstix.com/index.php


Oooooooo, Spazstix with an "s"....I was looking up 'Spaztix" (above post). Got it....Thanks

I have used automotive paints for 14 years and never had a problem. You can add the flexative agent to these but I do not. Key is to NOT saturate the lexan with paint. If you apply the laquer too thick or wet it will saturate the lexan and make it brittle. Light coats allowing the laquer solvents to evaporate between coats will prevent this. Pactra paints are laquer with as Chance said the flexative already added. These cans sell at 5.29 in hobby shops. Automotive laquer such as Duplicolor come in cans that are much larger and sell for about the same price at Meijer and Wal-Mart stores. They do Not contain the flex agent.

Fred - Do u sand / scuff the lexan before painting?

I have used automotive paints for 14 years and never had a problem. You can add the flexative agent to these but I do not. Key is to NOT saturate the lexan with paint. If you apply the laquer too thick or wet it will saturate the lexan and make it brittle. Light coats allowing the laquer solvents to evaporate between coats will prevent this. Pactra paints are laquer with as Chance said the flexative already added. These cans sell at 5.29 in hobby shops. Automotive laquer such as Duplicolor come in cans that are much larger and sell for about the same price at Meijer and Wal-Mart stores. They do Not contain the flex agent.



You could probably use something like Duplicolor for a sprint car, where the body doesnt take a lot of hits or flex. More than the Laquer affecting the lexan and making it brittle, the paint simply doesnt flex and can easily separate. Believe me I want to use Automotive paint! I airbrush a lot of helmets and stuff. I sometimes use automotive paint when I am using black to paint on rivets and shadow things. Thats only because it shoots much better and there isnt enought to worry about it flexing.

Chance

Fred - Do u sand / scuff the lexan before painting?

Scott:
I use hot soapy water along with a real fine steel wool to scuff and clean the lexan. That way I am sure to have a clean surface.


Chance:
The second car body I did after getting into r/c racing was done with automotive laquer. It was paint I bought to refinish a damaged area on my 69 Corvette,( Daytona Yellow). I had destroyed my first 1/8th scale body and was painting a new 1/8 scale Corvette, so the color seemed to fit. I also was now able to pick my car out of a cluster of cars and so almost every car since has been yellow. Stock cars, trucks and sprints. As laquer is going away in the industry I have come to use base coat clear coat systems from both Dupont and PPG. They work almost as well as the laquer. I have put both sprints and stock cars to the limit and they have held up well without peeling and or cracking due to paint. I'll post a couple pics in the near future.:wave:

Chance, That would be ok if that was true. Buy I will be running with these guys next year.:lol:
I think I'm going to get SORRY!!! put on my new paint job. :thumbsup:You could probably use something like Duplicolor for a sprint car, where the body doesnt take a lot of hits or flex. More than the Laquer affecting the lexan and making it brittle, the paint simply doesnt flex and can easily separate. Believe me I want to use Automotive paint! I airbrush a lot of helmets and stuff. I sometimes use automotive paint when I am using black to paint on rivets and shadow things. Thats only because it shoots much better and there isnt enought to worry about it flexing.

Chance

Scott:
I use hot soapy water along with a real fine steel wool to scuff and clean the lexan. That way I am sure to have a clean surface.


Chance:
The second car body I did after getting into r/c racing was done with automotive laquer. It was paint I bought to refinish a damaged area on my 69 Corvette,( Daytona Yellow). I had destroyed my first 1/8th scale body and was painting a new 1/8 scale Corvette, so the color seemed to fit. I also was now able to pick my car out of a cluster of cars and so almost every car since has been yellow. Stock cars, trucks and sprints. As laquer is going away in the industry I have come to use base coat clear coat systems from both Dupont and PPG. They work almost as well as the laquer. I have put both sprints and stock cars to the limit and they have held up well without peeling and or cracking due to paint. I'll post a couple pics in the near future.:wave:



I havent had any luck whatsoever using base/clear ore single stage....espescially single stage!lol. I have tried a lot of different things to get it to work (prepping) but havent gotten it to work as well as I would like. To me, its best to just use stuff thats made for lexan with the flex add.


One other suggestion I would have....everyone always asks me...do you scratch it with scoth brite? Dou you wash it in a tub with soap and water or even just water. To be honest, I think most people over think this step. I often dont do anything but wipe the body with a damp rag. However, if I am doing some design stuff with multiple colors, I use some stuff called "Prep All" that can be found at your local Autozone or Schucks. This product is a wax and greese remover. You simple put just a bit on a rag and wipe the body down. Make sure it has dried up before you start painting. This takes off the oils from your hands. I only use it right before I start laying out masking. Once you lay down stickers, masking, or paint...dont use it. This stuff works great.


Here is a link to Prep-All
http://www.autozone.com/Ntt,prep-all/shopping/allResults.htm;jsessionid=77B485BA6FBA12DE0BAB2451 AD354CB9

IN2RACIN,
All the bodies that I did for Herbbie and Fast Freddie last year, were done with Createx, AutoAir and Faskolor paints.
You had to see the abuse that those things went through.
I don't believe any of the paint in those bodies cracked or chipped.
I sprayed them with an airbrush also.
The trick for me is a really clean body to start. No scuffing done.
Some of the paints are to thick right from the bottle, so you need to thin them down with a little glass cleaner.
I start with light coats until I get even coverage and then start spraying heavier coats.
You also need to dry the paint in between coats for better adhesion with a hair dryer.
Don't let it air dry or you'll be there all day!
It only takes about a minute or two to dry coats and you can see it dry as you go.
Adam Liehr wants a couple of 10th oval bodies done for Orlando and I'm going to do his stuff the same way.
Let me know if you need more help.

Doorman:cool:

One of the things that I do and helps me a lot because I get impatient, wating on the paint to dry ,I preheat the paint [cans] and pre heat the body with a hair dryer ,After the paint is layed on one coat at a time I dry the paint with the hair dryer [each coat ], It helps stop the paint from tryin to bleed under the maskin tape ,I use a good Quality maskin tape from [NAPA ] , It goes fast doing that way for me or I am not standing there watchin paint dry ,Robert :thumbsup:

Have a friend that preheated his paint cans on kitchen stove in a pan of water. This works real good, till you go back to garage and start tinkering on your car with you bud and get on bar time. The result moved a couple of the house walls 2 inches.

I always just wash the body with hot soapy water and towel dry then finish with the hair drier, Get my trusty can of krylon paint and shoot a way follow up with krylon clear and havent had any problem with chipping or fuel. Use the same thing on 1/10 nitro cars also with no problem.. :thumbsup:

What's a good Airbrush for Faskolor?

I have used automotive paints for 14 years and never had a problem. You can add the flexative agent to these but I do not. Key is to NOT saturate the lexan with paint. If you apply the laquer too thick or wet it will saturate the lexan and make it brittle. Light coats allowing the laquer solvents to evaporate between coats will prevent this. Pactra paints are laquer with as Chance said the flexative already added. These cans sell at 5.29 in hobby shops. Automotive laquer such as Duplicolor come in cans that are much larger and sell for about the same price at Meijer and Wal-Mart stores. They do Not contain the flex agent.

MURRAY, I WILL HAVE TO SAY U REALLY KNOW WHAT U ARE TALKING ABOUT. I PAINTED SOME ON A NEW BODY WITH THE AUTOMOTIVE LAQUER DUPLICOLOR PAINT AND IT WORKED GREAT. TWISTED IT, BENT IT AND TRIED TO BEAT IT OFF AND IT IS STILL THEIR AND LOOKING GOOD. THANKS FOR THE GOOD INFO. THESE WEB SITES DO WORK GREAT MOST OF THE TIME. HOPE YOUR HOLIDAYS WERE GREAT.

MURRAY, I WILL HAVE TO SAY U REALLY KNOW WHAT U ARE TALKING ABOUT. I PAINTED SOME ON A NEW BODY WITH THE AUTOMOTIVE LAQUER DUPLICOLOR PAINT AND IT WORKED GREAT. TWISTED IT, BENT IT AND TRIED TO BEAT IT OFF AND IT IS STILL THEIR AND LOOKING GOOD. THANKS FOR THE GOOD INFO. THESE WEB SITES DO WORK GREAT MOST OF THE TIME. HOPE YOUR HOLIDAYS WERE GREAT.

As the Laquer and plastic are both acrylics they work well together. The paint will actually etch itself into the plastic. The key is not to put to much paint on at one time. That will saturate the plastic with the solvents in the pain and make the plastic brittle. Light coats are the key. This allows the solvents to evaporate and not damage the plastic. a good clean surface to apply the paint also helps. :wave:

As the Laquer and plastic are both acrylics they work well together. The paint will actually etch itself into the plastic. The key is not to put to much paint on at one time. That will saturate the plastic with the solvents in the pain and make the plastic brittle. Light coats are the key. This allows the solvents to evaporate and not damage the plastic. a good clean surface to apply the paint also helps. :wave:

Fred is right. You can get away with using a lot of different paints if you use light coats. That allows for the solvent to "pop" quicker. I just dont use anything other than Pactra,Spaz-stix or faskolor because they are the only ones with flex additives. I dont like spending $120 on a body and taking a chance on damaging the body or having paint fall off or chip off to save $20. Just my .02


Scott,
if you go to your local hobbyshop you can get a paasche for about $100 bucks or so but you need a compressor. That was my first airbrush and I used faskolor a lot with it. I now have an Iwata that works awesome but for starting out a Paasche works great.

"Scott,
if you go to your local hobbyshop you can get a paasche for about $100 bucks or so but you need a compressor."

How much air pressure do you use?

I usually end up running around 20 pounds or so. You need to make sure you have a condensation filter on your compressor, if not you will get water going through the airbrush and onto the body. The best way in all reality isnt even to use a compressor. You can go to the local welding shop and use compressed air from a bottle. This way the air has a constant pressure and doesnt fluxuate with the motor on the compressor if that makes sense. A comressor will work fine for what you want to do though! Have fun!

Just use Pactra R/C paint... Works perfect, never cracks, and always looks good to the judges... Right Chance? :wave:

Why you gotta bring up old stuff!??? Yes Pactra works perfect. I use it more than any other kind!

Painting tips by Greg Big Dog from a 2005 QSAC Newsletter..Thanks

Awesome step by step procedure there Mr. Hilber. I pretty much follow the same path as stated. Sometimes you just can't get the darker colors down first... For instance a majority white car... all i do is paint the white, let it dry a little, or help it with the hair dryer, but before going to the next color put a coat of silver behind the white. Doesn't darken the white and also doesn't allow any color to show thru. As for most of the colors i will put a white backing on them to brighten them up before any other color is painted. Especially the Flourescents!!! :thumbsup:

The other thing thats more of a personal preference of mine is that I actually paint everything, including the numbers and sponsers. pretty much the only thing thats not painted will be the contengency stickers and the headlight/tailights... I haven't had a problem with the headlight taillights coming off at all... So thats why i make it a habit to always back my white with silver and my colors with white, cuz i will have "MANY" coats of paint coming afterwards... :thumbsup:

I do the same as Denn. I like to back white with silver and any colors that are somewhat bright including flourescents and even silver, I like to back with the opaque white cover coat by Pactra. It goes on really dry so it doesnt re-activate previous colors.

.... Krylon makes a plastic paint that works but in my opinion doesnt have enough flex addative for our application.


Chance
Phobia Kustom Painting
ROCKIT Motorsports

I have used plasticolor on my 10th scale electric stuff as a backing for years. I have had zero problems with flexing or chipping. So, i decided to use it on my last q scale body. As soon as fuel hit it, it began to bubble.
It might work directly applied to the body because it is designed to adhere to plastic. However, it would still have to be backed with something that is fuel proof!

Post #41 may help some of you guys with those new paint jobs.

Hey... Good timing. Thanks Scott!

Hey... Good timing. Thanks Scott!

I was thinking of you when I re-posted this! LOL

I was recently asked about this topic (again). So, here it is, the Greg Hilber step-by-step body painting. This is very helpful. :thumbsup:

If you think that you can't paint a body, then please try Greg's
tutorial. Scott sent me the link off the QSAC web site quite a few years ago.
It is one of the best introductions to painting a 1/4 scale body that you will find.

Mike