how do i read the timing ring on novak motors?

thanks

The notches on the ring on the tab end. Counter clockwise is advancing the timing as you look at it straight on.

I know that much. I'm looking for degree number. Ie 10 20 30

TjTowne

I don't know where the Base "ZERO" timing setting is on a Novak Motor, but you can measure the diameter of the can or endbell

(I haven't measured one, and don't have my calipers sitting right HERE, but here's the idea)

If the endbell is 1.25" in diameter, multiply that by Pi (I use 3.1416) that would give you a 3.927" circumference, divide that by 360 (A circle is 360 degrees) and you get .0109" per degree so each ONE degree of timing would be roughly a 10/1000's of an inch, so a movement of 1/8th of an inch 0.125" would be about a 12 degree change

Darn, Joe, I just twist mine as far as it will go.

On a more serious note, the Novak guy that was at the Nats last year told me that the as shipped timing was not a fixed thing, they adjusted them to a performance perimater as apposed to say 6 degrees.

LOL - I do the same thing Ron...

You need to contact Charlie S. At Novak

swtour
that is what i wanted to do once i found "zero"

We have chassis dyno'd a lot of motors and the rollout changes with timing changes are hard to hit blind. By far the easiest for me so far has been to turn the timing all the way up and gear for fast lap times.

What the point is, is this. We've been told that you dont want to be running a total of more than 40 degrees of timing within the motor and speedo. So you kinda need to know where the motor is to start. He knows how to find roll-out. Would like to keep responses to something that is factual and not just some sarcastic comments, trying to figure out how this stuff works. Not whether or not we are dumbasses.

I apologize if the information in my post offended you. It wasn't intended to. If specific info on the timing parameters is what you are after, Charlie (charlie@teamnovak.com) will be able to help.

Scot Petitclerc / Team Novak

As posted by Steve Weiss (Novak Electronics Engineering Department) with pictures:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/4504065-post6238.html

Pancar, those photo's show the full, min and factory as shipped but that does not tell you where 0 is, which I think is what you are looking for.

I have been running brushless, 10.5, 13.5, 17.5 and 21.5 since the summer of 07, using an LRP speedo, we have run all the motor with the timing full advanced. Geared for lap times and watched the temp.

...........

my issue is with tekin and new software i was told not to get total timing over 40 deg. so i need to know a timing number on motor.

thanks

I,ve been setting my motors for peak rpm? Then gearing for best lap times. I thought that was what everyone was doing?

I had the timing cranked up but went back to factory setting and got better off the corner

my issue is with tekin and new software i was told not to get total timing over 40 deg. so i need to know a timing number on motor.

thanks

... Crank it all the way up on the Novak motors (that's around 12-14 degrees) and set your Tekin esc to sensored only mode ... if you're using software 189 set it at 15 and you should then gear it to approx. 2.65 for St-Johnsbury (give or take) ... I haven't been to your track in a while but that's what I would start with.

10.5 and over run good at 40-45 degrees of timing ... that's motor physical timing + esc boost + "timing read ahead" which is around 15 degrees on all motors ...

Steve.
team Tekin

thats what ive been looking for, thanks steve

Novaks are about 12 deg max.......

I would start at 11 timing boost.....which will give you 38 total.

JW Housley

jw are you coming off any teeth or leaving the gear alone to start. thanks nick

... Crank it all the way up on the Novak motors (that's around 12-14 degrees) and set your Tekin esc to sensored only mode ... if you're using software 189 set it at 15 and you should then gear it to approx. 2.65 for St-Johnsbury (give or take) ... I haven't been to your track in a while but that's what I would start with.

10.5 and over run good at 40-45 degrees of timing ... that's motor physical timing + esc boost + "timing read ahead" which is around 15 degrees on all motors ...

Steve.
team Tekin

How many feet is the St-Johnsbury track? About??

135 ft guessing,,, i will measure it

Steve,what is timing read ahead?Also on 10.5 you said 40-45.Is that timing all the way up on motor and about 20 on the boost?... Crank it all the way up on the Novak motors (that's around 12-14 degrees) and set your Tekin esc to sensored only mode ... if you're using software 189 set it at 15 and you should then gear it to approx. 2.65 for St-Johnsbury (give or take) ... I haven't been to your track in a while but that's what I would start with.

10.5 and over run good at 40-45 degrees of timing ... that's motor physical timing + esc boost + "timing read ahead" which is around 15 degrees on all motors ...

Steve.
team Tekin

Steve,what is timing read ahead?Also on 10.5 you said 40-45.Is that timing all the way up on motor and about 20 on the boost?

All sensored esc/bl combo will have a read ahead factor varies ... approx. 15.

Should've left this read ahead factor aside from the equation ... much simplier to refer to Motor timing + ESC timing value only: 25-30 degrees.

Novak 10.5 timing set at MAX (counter clockwise).
Boost at 15 on the Tekin RS/RS-PRO

Steve.
team Tekin.

I Ran My Tekin Rs With Th 189 This Past Weekend With Awsome Results.. I Had The Novak Motor At Full Mechanical Timing And Then Set The Boost At 14 Points At First But The Motor Wasn't That Hot So I Bumped Up To 16 Points And It Felt Just About Perfect... Hope This Helps... Rpm Seen How Well This Set-up Worked On My Car..... He Will Telll You

Thank you Steve,tried it this weekend and its definetly an improvement.With motor temps at 150 with boost at 15 is that pretty close or would you try it a little more? I've found out that boost is pretty sensitive.All sensored esc/bl combo will have a read ahead factor varies ... approx. 15.

Should've left this read ahead factor aside from the equation ... much simplier to refer to Motor timing + ESC timing value only: 25-30 degrees.

Novak 10.5 timing set at MAX (counter clockwise).
Boost at 15 on the Tekin RS/RS-PRO

Steve.
team Tekin.

Thank you Steve,tried it this weekend and its definetly an improvement.With motor temps at 150 with boost at 15 is that pretty close or would you try it a little more? I've found out that boost is pretty sensitive.

150F sounds good, 4-cell 10.5? What track layout? etc.

Steve.

I'm sorry,should have given that info already.Yes its 4 cell 10.5,4 cell at about 170 ft. flat ozite.150F sounds good, 4-cell 10.5? What track layout? etc.

Steve.

I'm sorry,should have given that info already.Yes its 4 cell 10.5,4 cell at about 170 ft. flat ozite.

What type of temp gauge are you using ... I've experimented big reading diffs from one type to the next. If it is a small blue type one, 150 is a tad low ... I'm more looking for 160. If you're using the "pistol" type then it's way to low, should be in the 180 range.

Steve.

I'm using a small one.I had one of the pistol types and it didn't even come close to anyone elses.Thanks again!What type of temp gauge are you using ... I've experimented big reading diffs from one type to the next. If it is a small blue type one, 150 is a tad low ... I'm more looking for 160. If you're using the "pistol" type then it's way to low, should be in the 180 range.

Steve.

Very interesting about the temps. I have the Raytek pistol type and usually read off the purple ring. Flat black is what those are calibrated for from what I've read. Glossy or chrome finish won't read accurately. I like to run around 140-150.

I put a piece of black tape on purple ring and then calibrate "E" number. I like 160 for 10.5

Very interesting about the temps. I have the Raytek pistol type and usually read off the purple ring. Flat black is what those are calibrated for from what I've read. Glossy or chrome finish won't read accurately. I like to run around 140-150.

I HAVE TRIED TO EXPLAIN THIS TO PEOPLE BEFORE AND THEY ALWAYS TELL ME THAT I AM WRONG. THE REASON WHY I STARTED TO THINK ABOUT THIS IS BECAUSE AROUND HERE WE DONT HAVE TO RUN THE PURPLE RING SO I NEVER DID AND MY CAR ALWAYS CAME OFF THE TRACK @ 120F OR LESS. LIVING HERE IN FLORIDA SOME TIMES MY MOTOR WOULD COME OFF THE TRACK HOTTER THAN THE DAM TRACK SURFACE. BUT IT FELT SUPER HOT TO THE TOUCH. SO I STARTED TO JUST ADD 40 DEGREES TO WHAT EVER THE TEMP GUN READ.. SO LAST WEEK I BUILT A NEW GEN3 AND I ALREADY HAD THE MOTOR OUT OF THE CAR SO I FIGURED I WOULD DO A LITTLE TEST AND I PUT THE PURPLE RING BACK ON THE CAR AND RAN IT LIKE MY FIRST 5 OR 6 PRACTICE RUNS WITH THE RING ON THERE AND IT WAS COMING OFF THE TRACK AT LIKE 135F TO 140F AND THEN AFTER THE LAST PRACTICE RUN I DIDN'T CHANGE ANYTHING JUST CHARGED MY BATTERY AND TOOK THE RING OFF RAN MY 4 MINUTES +/- AND GUESS WHAT IT CAME OFF AT 98 DEGREES AND SOME PEOPLE STILL WANTED TO ARGUE WITH ME SO I JUST FIGURES IF THEY THOUGHT THEY WERE GAING THAT MUCH BY TAKING THAT RING OFF ALL THE MORE POWER TO THEM.. TO BE HONEST I STILL RUN MY MOTOR WITH THE RING OFF BUT I STILL JUST USE MY 40 DEGREE RULE...... AND IT HAS WORKED FOR ME........

You know at the level that most of us are at, you would probably be better off leaving your temp gun at home, especially with the novak motors. When your car is really good and your runs are about as fast as your going to be, your motor will probably be hotter or close to the max temp novak says, so because your motor temp is high are you going to back it down? Probably not, the temp guns are just another thing to confuse the less experienced racer, expecially when you start changing the calibration of your temp gun.

You know at the level that most of us are at, you would probably be better off leaving your temp gun at home, especially with the novak motors. When your car is really good and your runs are about as fast as your going to be, your motor will probably be hotter or close to the max temp novak says, so because your motor temp is high are you going to back it down? Probably not, the temp guns are just another thing to confuse the less experienced racer, expecially when you start changing the calibration of your temp gun.tune your rollout per laptimes!

sorry for double post, second one edited!