http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.003.jpg

http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.009.jpg

Galileo Flight Deck Pt 01: Overview 7 mins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeUbwV6eFGM&feature=PlayList&p=A122FD726D88BC5D&index=0

Galileo Flight Deck Pt 02: Some mods 5 mins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8ASeESJGsk&feature=PlayList&p=A122FD726D88BC5D&index=1

Galileo Flight Deck Pt 03: Progress! 7.5 mins
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugQwtd9ewOo&feature=PlayList&p=A122FD726D88BC5D&index=2

I started this lil' guy about 2 years ago. The thing that was killing me was the new roofline and additions from MiniModelMadness. THose parts were great. But killing the seams proved impossible. In the end, I slapped another sheet of styrene over the top. Now that that backlog has cleared, it's on to lighting this guy!

I got the EL sheet about the same time I got the kit. I used to spend hours taking pix and writing build logs. Recently, I've switched up to simply youtubing the log. Much more is conveyed by speaking over writing.

Hope you take a few moments to look in on what I've done with this kit so far. I expect to get some more done over christmas week.

Have a Happy-Happy.

Perfect application for light sheet. What's the driver like and where's it hidden? Who's your EL sheet provider? (sorry if it's in the videos but they don't play too well at work.)

Hi Steve, I guess when you say they don't play too well at work you mean they don't play too well at work. ;)
But yes, I do cover the driver and such in the video. Here is an old photo I had on hand.
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo2.030.jpg

Bottom right to top: cardboard box to hide the power switch, black box is the driver and I will dress a couple more boxes all to look like SF cargo crates. The driver will be hidden in plain sight. All the wires involved drill straight down through the deck and run along gouged tracts underneath. The wiring to the Gal herself goes directly up through a nacelle and into the body, almost totally invisible.

All the wiring works. I need to paint up the interior ceiling, attach the drop down ceiling-light box, seal the body and paint up all the exterior pieces. I will add another video update before the year is up.

If they are real hard-asses at work, try zipping thru them on a lunch break, or check 'em out before you log in or after. If it's the flash player or site blocking that's stopping you from youtubing, then sympathies and condolences.

EVer since I started youtubing all my work, I've barely taken a single picture .

Here's the pre-youtube build log:
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/html/kits/kit021_galileo.html

And my full model site:
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/index.html

Here's a ref collage:
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/galileobk.jpg

Oh yeah, I got the EL sheet off ebay. I went back to the guy's store the other day, but it looks like he's dropped EL sheet. Caribbean Custom Designs I think. He has a non-ebay store too. He might have it there. Based in puerto rico I think.

Regardless, it's tough to get the sheets at reasonable prices, that's for sure!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86DIYOXWTf4&feature=channel

About 6 mins. Covers what's nwo done, what little left there is to do and what remains ahead. Could be done for the new year.

I broke down and watched the "remastered" Galileo 7 ep last night. The yoeman is kinda cute. Don't remember her from watching it 38 years ago. Boy them spears had to hurt.

How do you like the remastered effects?

Enjoyed watching the u-tube progress (at home they play better. well i do anyway).

That is very cool! :thumbsup:

Cool! I think!:)

I just watched a bunch of the fx reels on youtube and they did a phenom job on the 1701. If I ever get to that level of painterllyism, then I'll go for that. The panels were distinct up close, but invisible from a distance. New cityscapes were better, the planets were all cool too. They could have really ruined things by doing this new fx work, but of the two doz reels I just watched, they are uniform improvements. They were a lustrous polish, not a hack and slice job.

Thanks guys.
Another installment is pending.

Boy them spears had to hurt.

AGREED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Back to Galileo (which will not be The Gal, but I have not determined the ship, name or registry # yet.

I've got the guts pretty much done w/ a little touchup remaining on the back wall to do today. The lightsheet is set, the wiring is good -though the transformer I had there died while I was running a test yesterday afternoon. So I had to strip all that out. Fortunately, it doesn't seem that sheet can burn out. If that ever died, that would be that as it ain't coming out ever again.

So next up is sealing the hull and finish that off. As the lighting is done, I may crosslink the remainder of this topic over to the sci-fi section. If I do, I will post the link.

Rundown pt1: 7 min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjl2BEzEvyE&feature=channel_page

Rundown pt2: 5 min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLJFAuM5QS8&feature=channel_page

Rundown pt3: 3.5 min
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YYt22VMqx8&feature=channel_page

This thread continues here:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=243508

ha...thats pretty cool

[QUOTE=Steve244 Who's your EL sheet provider?[/QUOTE]


Steve244, got to www.microstru.com, there you will find EL Sheet Light at Miller Engineering. You can buy direct from them.

hal9001-

As reasonable a set of prices as any. The 4x6 sheet is the clear deal.

The sheet I used for Gal was a 2"x4", which I cut down some on the sides and length. I went thru 2 transformers on this one sheet so far! All EL transformers are sensitive it seems. They are cranking some seriosu juice, so it's not too much surprise. But knowing that, you'd think they'd engineer them better to cope. The first to blow out on me was a massive spark and bang with phizzz. I thought I blew the EL sheet too, but that stuff is resilient.

As reasonable a set of prices as any. The 4x6 sheet is the clear deal.

The sheet I used for Gal was a 2"x4", which I cut down some on the sides and length. I went thru 2 transformers on this one sheet so far! All EL transformers are sensitive it seems. They are cranking some seriosu juice, so it's not too much surprise. But knowing that, you'd think they'd engineer them better to cope. The first to blow out on me was a massive spark and bang with phizzz. I thought I blew the EL sheet too, but that stuff is resilient.

Model Man, I don't know squat about electronics and plan on useing some Light Sheet in the near future, so could you possible give a reason why you thing they're blowing out on you? Do you think it's something you're doing?

To show my ignorance, is the transformer the elongated black thing at the end of the wire? See, told you I don't know squat! Man, this really concerns me. Obviously the transformers can't be sealed inside the model.

Any tips would be much appreciated. You may be thinking, if this guy ask a question like this should he be trying to work with electronics? Well, I'm not completely dumb and too I have a brother that's very good with electronics.

Hal9001-

Steve244, got to www.microstru.com, there you will find EL Sheet Light at Miller Engineering. You can buy direct from them.

hal9001-

good link. (go to "experimenter kits")

Yes, it is the little black box. It takes the wall voltage/amps and cranks them way up to dangerous levels! Be very careful when handling bare wires. It's a massively unexpected level of shock.

I've electrocuted myself on the transformer a number of times, I've also crossed wires and had no probs with them afterwards. I figured it was cheap components failing. As far as I've been able to determine, there has been no user error involved.

The big spark event I mentioned, it was just sitting there and essentially exploded (w/ flares and everything).

The second transformer simply died a couple weeks ago when Itook the kit out after a year's storage. I was testing the connection by switching it on and off a few times. The third time, it simply did not come on. I had spare transformers around from other EL stuff, so I swapped it out.

I've seen alot of transformers blow, esp. on CCFL's. But alot haven't died either. Maybe 50/50 has been my experience so far.

Sealing the transformer in anything is a dicey proposition, but I have done it myself on other models. (I'm working away from that practice.) Not only because of potential change-outs, but it does generate heat/warmth when left on for a time -certainly not combustible temps though.

good link. (go to "experimenter kits")

It's the same place, Miller Engineering.

It's the same place, Miller Engineering.

Nooooo I meant, "good link!" :)

Nooooo I meant, "good link!" :)

Roger that-

As reasonable a set of prices as any. The 4x6 sheet is the clear deal.

The sheet I used for Gal was a 2"x4", which I cut down some on the sides and length. I went thru 2 transformers on this one sheet so far! All EL transformers are sensitive it seems. They are cranking some seriosu juice, so it's not too much surprise. But knowing that, you'd think they'd engineer them better to cope. The first to blow out on me was a massive spark and bang with phizzz. I thought I blew the EL sheet too, but that stuff is resilient.

Model Man,
I Just got my first EL Light Sheet in today and I'm a bit dissapointed. It's not quite as bright as I'd hoped, and yes I used new batteries before you ask. Too, I bought the white sheet but it's not true white, it has bit of a blue hue to it, does your white EL sheet? Not really knowing anything about electronics I was wondering if adding a little more voltage would make it brighter or just burn it out or damage the transformer. What say you?

Any help here would be greatly appreciated,

Hal9001-

P.S.
I bought DLM's blue resin engine nacelle lighting parts for the USS Reliant and laying one on the EL sheet with a mask cutout to block interfering light sure doesn't look very bright with the lights out, maybe it's just me. I just don't know, or is there different output sheets?

I dunno know about different intensity sheets. I'm no expert either, I'm learning as I go.

You can't pump more juice into the sheet than it already gets, that's what the transformer does and that runs at 12v. If you happened across a wall wart that was greater, then the trans would burn. But a 9v, or lesser than 12v, will simply underpower the unit. If you found a bigger transformer ( I don't know its' ratings), then it might light brighter but at less lifetime -as w/ any LED or other similar item. They do fade normally over time, however many thousands of hours.

The following pix are what I would consider accurate as light intensity goes. There could be different qualities r manufacturers or batches too. You could try exchanging it. Call and ask about expected brightness. Maybe you got a bad, used or old one.
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.009.jpg
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.002.jpg

While it may look bright here, it is bare plastic. Painted as it is today, the sheet is not bright enough to properly light the interior. Several white led spots are needed -hidden behind the chairs perhaps.

Of EL Wire, Tape and Sheet, sheet is the brightest, followed by Wire. The blue Strip I got was very disappointing. I was going to light my Falcon's engines. I switched up to 3 CCFL's and will post that stuff here when I get back to it. Of course, leds are the kings of bright light.

With your Reliant:
How is the light without the mask? Or alone? The mask and the resin will absorb lots of lumens (and wavelength unevenly). EL aren't broad spectrum like the sun, they burn in one or two spectra only so the more diffusion, the worse it gets. But I guess you would say that it looks great if all that were the case and only looked bad under the resin.

For the nacelles, consider a pair of 6" CCFL's. You would likely have to cut the light rods from the outer tube to fit it in the nacelle. Be careful, the exposed wire has juice! And it snaps easy. You could store the transformer in the body easy enough. If it doesn't fit as is, you can open it up (UNPLUGGED!) and put it in bare.


PS The 'white' sheets are somewhat blue as the photo shows. When compared to real blue EL, this stuff is pure white. Otherwise, yes, the white has that blueishness going on.

I dunno know about different intensity sheets. I'm no expert either, I'm learning as I go.

You can't pump more juice into the sheet than it already gets, that's what the transformer does and that runs at 12v. If you happened across a wall wart that was greater, then the trans would burn. But a 9v, or lesser than 12v, will simply underpower the unit. If you found a bigger transformer ( I don't know its' ratings), then it might light brighter but at less lifetime -as w/ any LED or other similar item. They do fade normally over time, however many thousands of hours.

The following pix are what I would consider accurate as light intensity goes. There could be different qualities r manufacturers or batches too. You could try exchanging it. Call and ask about expected brightness. Maybe you got a bad, used or old one.
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.009.jpg
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/images/galileo1.002.jpg

While it may look bright here, it is bare plastic. Painted as it is today, the sheet is not bright enough to properly light the interior. Several white led spots are needed -hidden behind the chairs perhaps.

Of EL Wire, Tape and Sheet, sheet is the brightest, followed by Wire. The blue Strip I got was very disappointing. I was going to light my Falcon's engines. I switched up to 3 CCFL's and will post that stuff here when I get back to it. Of course, leds are the kings of bright light.

With your Reliant:
How is the light without the mask? Or alone? The mask and the resin will absorb lots of lumens (and wavelength unevenly). EL aren't broad spectrum like the sun, they burn in one or two spectra only so the more diffusion, the worse it gets. But I guess you would say that it looks great if all that were the case and only looked bad under the resin.

For the nacelles, consider a pair of 6" CCFL's. You would likely have to cut the light rods from the outer tube to fit it in the nacelle. Be careful, the exposed wire has juice! And it snaps easy. You could store the transformer in the body easy enough. If it doesn't fit as is, you can open it up (UNPLUGGED!) and put it in bare.


PS The 'white' sheets are somewhat blue as the photo shows. When compared to real blue EL, this stuff is pure white. Otherwise, yes, the white has that blueishness going on.


Do the CCFL's not generate too much heat without ventilation? Which you can't use ventilation of course. And what do you mean by cutting the light rods? Last question, what is blue strip, is it like a ribbon? I saw some EL that looks like ribbon and looks like it would work fantastic for primary hull lights.

-EL strip/ribbon is dim at best.
'Cold-Cathode Flourescant Light' When you see them, you'll understand what I'm saying about slicing them up.

Actually, here is my Falcon overview from a couple months ago. It has EL wire and CCFL's in the body along with piles of LEDS and fiber optics.
About 2:30 for the CCFL's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FfWX1-IXco

http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k002_cutaway/images/sw_falcut_0055.jpg
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k002_cutaway/images/sw_falcut_0061.jpg


Here's a diorama I built using:
Blue Ribbon/Strip,
Blue Wire
Blue Light Sheet
Red CCFL's
UV, red and white LEDs
I still have to wire in an IC timer chip to get the red to blink in 'Alert Mode'.
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/dioramas/_2ndround/MedBay/images/medbay2.063.jpg
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/dioramas/_2ndround/MedBay/images/medbay2.055.jpg

You can read this build log and see more construction pix here:
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/html/dioramas/dio005_medbay.html

[QUOTE=Model Man;2701743]-EL strip/ribbon is dim at best.
'Cold-Cathode Flourescant Light' When you see them, you'll understand what I'm saying about slicing them up.

Model Man,

The CCFL looks like they're too big to fit inside Star Trek 1/537 engine nacelles, is that so? I'm trying to figure out how people are lighting the nacelles so well and so bright. Seems to me lineing up LED's would create a row of hot spots. Dissapointed to hear the EL strip/ribbon is dim at best. That would've been perfect. Infact I just recalled that Don @DLM did a article on Culttvman's site on building the USS Excelsior and he used EL strip/ribbon I belived and it looked really bright. But then agian he may have cut up EL sheet, can't remember. I talked to, I think his name is Mark, at Miller Engineering and he told me I could ramp up the volts on the EL sheet to 6V for a bit more brightness. I really prefer to use DC over AC for power. Can't allways find a convenient AC outlet. There is a seller on eBay called theglowhut.com that selles EL and he has a 6"X8" sheet that's long enough for the lighting parts for the ST nacelles but the sheet only has one contact lead so you can't really cut it up in multipules. I'd like to ask, if you don't mind, where are you're buying your EL and CCFL materials? And before I go not only would I like to thank you for your help but would like to compliment you on your creativty in your diorama using all the EL materials. Looks Great! These new lighting choices we have now a days gives us a level of 'cool' we didn't have just a few years ago.

Hal9001-

I've seen glowhut before I think.

CCFL's, they come in 12" and 6" too. They are very bright, but you would have to cut the block-ends off and possibly pull the glow rod out of the outer tube as I mentioned.

I've seen people put rows of leds in the nacelles, and you do get hotspots. I was sad to see that and couldn't figure out why the builders did that. On youtube, I think, for the 350 Refit.

I got all my EL of of ebay, but if you have any computer shows in your area, check them out as this stuff is marketed towards the mod'ing computer cases.

You can rev up the EL sheet for brighter glow? Good to know. Like I say, I'm still learning as I go.

That diorama was a hodgepodge experiment to see how much stuff I could cram into one piece. even though I've called it 'done', it needs a more work before it's really done.


Look for CCFL's on ebay and you'll see the difference between 6" and 12". They are not too expensive and are handy to have in your arsenal if you do not use them for the nacelles. I've also seen people light up their saucer and 2ndary hull with single/multiple ccfl's too. But I think leds are better on that front

LEDS- there is an ebayer in china selling dirt cheap leds w/ resistors. Like $10 shipped for 100 white leds kind of prices. I got 'em and love 'em. I'll post the name later.

I've seen glowhut before I think.

CCFL's, they come in 12" and 6" too. They are very bright, but you would have to cut the block-ends off and possibly pull the glow rod out of the outer tube as I mentioned.

I've seen people put rows of leds in the nacelles, and you do get hotspots. I was sad to see that and couldn't figure out why the builders did that. On youtube, I think, for the 350 Refit.

I got all my EL of of ebay, but if you have any computer shows in your area, check them out as this stuff is marketed towards the mod'ing computer cases.

You can rev up the EL sheet for brighter glow? Good to know. Like I say, I'm still learning as I go.

That diorama was a hodgepodge experiment to see how much stuff I could cram into one piece. even though I've called it 'done', it needs a more work before it's really done.


Look for CCFL's on ebay and you'll see the difference between 6" and 12". They are not too expensive and are handy to have in your arsenal if you do not use them for the nacelles. I've also seen people light up their saucer and 2ndary hull with single/multiple ccfl's too. But I think leds are better on that front

LEDS- there is an ebayer in china selling dirt cheap leds w/ resistors. Like $10 shipped for 100 white leds kind of prices. I got 'em and love 'em. I'll post the name later.

I haven't tried ramping up the volts on the EL so I don't know exactly what it will do. I can't imagine jumping up 1.5v is going to do much, but then again as I said I know almost noting 'bout electronics. One thing you didn't remark on was the question about heat build up from the CCFL's. I worry about them being closed up inside the USS Reliant nacelles without any where for the heat to go. I realize the first 'C' in CCFL stands for 'cold' but I'm sure they produce SOME heat. Right?

Well, I have a lot of testing to do before I try anything yet. Think I may try to tackle something smaller first like the PL Enterprise with Culttvemans' 1/1000 nacelle lights and some simple lighting of the two hulls. Then maybe the Excelsior.

I would avoid EL sheets if you can, here is a life test I did on one I was planning on using for the lighting of my Moebius Seaview control room. In order to get enough light
from a panel you have to drive it hard so it's life is shorten and it well get dim very fast. This is after just a 96 hours.
I'd look at LEDs, no high voltage and a better light output. Here is what I did for my Seaview.:thumbsup:

I would avoid EL sheets if you can, here is a life test I did on one I was planning on using for the lighting of my Moebius Seaview control room. In order to get enough light
from a panel you have to drive it hard so it's life is shorten and it well get dim very fast. This is after just a 96 hours.
I'd look at LEDs, no high voltage and a better light output. Here is what I did for my Seaview.:thumbsup:

That's bad to hear about the EL Sheets because I'm trying to find a way to to light up the nacells on the Reliant and Enterpries models. I can't imagine a row of LED's not giving a row of hot spots and I'm not sure the CCFL's can work without building up too much heat closed up inside a nacelle (or fit for that matter). Again this is all preliminary thoughts on my part and no testing as of yet. I read a build article by Don of DLM on the Execlsior/B and that's where I discovered EL sheet. I've seen EL sheet with 400 hrs. life and I've seen EL sheet with 15,00-20,000 hrs. life. I belive one is thicker than the other. Whether that has to do with anything I don't know, this is where my electronics ignorace fails me. Do you know the life expectancy for the one you tested?

Come to think of it, it seems like there is someone out there, mybe VoodooFX, that has a lighting kit for the NX-01 that uses CCFL's so mybe they're not too hot. I'll have to check on that. I donna know, going to pull my hair out untill I find what to do I suppose.

Thanks for your input. By the way, your Seaview interior looks great!

Hal9001-

That's bad to hear about the EL Sheets because I'm trying to find a way to to light up the nacells on the Reliant and Enterpries models. I can't imagine a row of LED's not giving a row of hot spots and I'm not sure the CCFL's can work without building up too much heat closed up inside a nacelle (or fit for that matter). Again this is all preliminary thoughts on my part and no testing as of yet. I read a build article by Don of DLM on the Execlsior/B and that's where I discovered EL sheet. I've seen EL sheet with 400 hrs. life and I've seen EL sheet with 15,00-20,000 hrs. life. I belive one is thicker than the other. Whether that has to do with anything I don't know, this is where my electronics ignorace fails me. Do you know the life expectancy for the one you tested?

Come to think of it, it seems like there is someone out there, mybe VoodooFX, that has a lighting kit for the NX-01 that uses CCFL's so mybe they're not too hot. I'll have to check on that. I donna know, going to pull my hair out untill I find what to do I suppose.

Thanks for your input. By the way, your Seaview interior looks great!

Hal9001-

Hi Hal9001, EL sheets do OK as long as you don't drive them hard. Unfortunately for me, to get enough light and at the right color to
make the control room look good, I had to drive it at a higher voltage
and frequency. That will shorten it's life. I like to have my builds lite all the time so after a year I'd think I would not be too happy with it's light output. CCFL's work very well and come in so many sizes, I like them for certain builds. I've never seen one get hot enough to damage plastic. VoodooFX has
some very nice lighting kits and are engineered very well, so if they have a
kit for your build, that is where I'd go.:thumbsup: If they don't, take a look
at "jkllamps.com" they have CCFL as small as .670"x.278" or as long as 24". The web site is easy to use and at the right of the data page is a link,it will show you who has them in stock. When wiring up CCFLs be sure you use "Silicone jacketed wire" on the high voltage side.

And thank you very much for the comment about my control room.:wave:

Don't worry about heat from the CCFL's, that's why they're cold-cathodes. :thumbsup: They are the way to go for nacelles.

I would only use el sheet when there are no other options -such as the Galileo ceiling or my Falcon's cockpit. Use leds' where possible, then go from there.

I'm gonna youtube some comparisons in the near future.

I would avoid EL sheets if you can, here is a life test I did on one I was planning on using for the lighting of my Moebius Seaview control room. In order to get enough light
from a panel you have to drive it hard so it's life is shorten and it well get dim very fast. This is after just a 96 hours.
I'd look at LEDs, no high voltage and a better light output. Here is what I did for my Seaview.:thumbsup:

What's the mcd for those smds?

I have to admit there really isn't an application that couldn't use those with a reflective light box rather than el sheet or ccfts. The reliability simplicity and size make a whole lotta sense.

Don't worry about heat from the CCFL's, that's why they're cold-cathodes. :thumbsup:

Hi Model Man, A friendly FYI, It's called "cold cathode" because there is not
a heater (a Filament for heating the Mercury in the tube to start conduction
of the argon gas), like found on larger tubes, they have two pins at both ends of the tube for the heater/cathode and CCFL only have one. CCFL count on a very high starting voltage to ignite the gas. Some tubes need as much as 1650volts to start and 660volt to run others much less, 425volts to start and 170volts to run. It all depends on the size of the tube and how bright it is:wave: It's this very high voltage that it's recommended you use Silicone Jacketed wire, and they can get hot if driven hard enough. Just feel how warm your large screen LCD tv gets. I hope this helps.:)

What's the mcd for those smds?

I have to admit there really isn't an application that couldn't use those with a reflective light box rather than el sheet or ccfts. The reliability simplicity and size make a whole lotta sense.

Hi Steve, they are both 2300mcd.

Hi Steve, they are both 2300mcd.

In the seaview are they "dimmed" or running at full load?

In the seaview are they "dimmed" or running at full load?

For that test shot they are at full brightness but I will be using a small dimmer circuit from my Nixie Tube Clock's "tube support board". I cut a few
of the boards to use with my builds.

Thanks Tesla, I appreciate the technical jargon and the elucidation gained.


Much like 'cold fusion', cold cathodes do generate (some) 'heat'.

In that regard, that's what my poor wording was striving for. These ain't as hot as the real deal. So while they get 'warm' (or even hot if deliberately rigged outside of normal operating parameters), they are still 'cold' in so far as they don't (normally) get hot enough to damage plastic they would be housed in; nor are they cold in so far as they self-fridgerate lower than room temp.

PS folks, when I say you don't want to touch an open transformer lead, the numbers Tesla gave are what you are looking at for juice coursing through you. It ain't fun. Could possibly be lethal for small kids and older old folk too. And a smattering of randoms in between. Which could be you. So don't do it! Be careful with electricity! LEDS are fun and 'safe', but all this esoteric EL and CCFL and other stuff is outright dangerous. In a totally life-threatening, electrically-speaking way that is...

Safety first!

I added a second inverter to power a blue EL wire for the underside of the flight deck. The procedure was simple enough.

I'm running the whole thing off of a 12v wall wart outputting 300mA of juice. The EL inverters are 12v, so there are no resistors anywhere. I was surprised that 300mA was enough, but glad it was so.

I have a number of wall warts on hand of differing mA (and volts). I start with a 500mA wart for general testing while I build, then use smaller and smaller ones until I find the lowest possible wart I can and go with that. In this case, the only smaller one I had was 250mA, so I just went with the 300mA w/o trying the 250mA.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FwbqaiU1QQk&feature=PlayList&p=A122FD726D88BC5D&index=17

Below Left: Inverter powers the EL wire underneath,
Below Center: Inverter powers the Galileo's ceiling light.
Below Right: The power switch is under the box lid.
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/gal7.010.JPG
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/gal7.011.JPG
http://www.twinlitworlds.com/modelwerx/graphics/kits/k021_galileo/gal7.012.JPG