Just put up a new thread over in the Slot car modleing/customizing section. Here's one photo. More is over on the other thread. Input is welcome.

Gar

Just put up a new thread over in the Slot car modleing/customizing section. Here's one photo. More is over on the other thread. Input is welcome.

Gar

Gary - I replied at SCI since I saw your post there first - car looks great. :thumbsup:

G, I'm mixed here, here me out before you jump on me.....

My problem is not with your abilities, I have a bag of your work waiting for the new chassis.....but more on the topic of durability. This car is going to generate some serious speed (don't let me find some adjustable brushes) and most likely it's going to take some serious hits and I have seen custom jobs end up in pieces in our series. Are you doing this just for show or for actual racing?

Yo!

Given my experience with Gary's bodies and the numerous pictures in the Slot Car Modeling/Customizing section, I think this body design is pretty robust.

copied post from SCI

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W, no jumpin'. You know I'm only havin' tons 'o fun when I'm modeling the fun stuff.

I will be painting a couple of these up when I get ready to put then out to the masses.

No, I will not be covering the rear crown gear area.

Actually, the front nose is more from the 2001 Ferrari, (see photo) but the modeler will have sand the top side down more for a smoother sloping effect. Or, it can be used as is to emulate the Williams also. It is my intention to make a genaric open wheel car that can be sanded to emualte the car you want it to. Make sense?

First let's see if I can answer the front wing "durability" aspect. It's pretty robust. Here are a couple photos of the front wing mounting setup. I do not model individual down struts to hold the frint wing. In stead, it is a block (male end) which fits into a square opening (female end) of the wing. These are made to glue together. The racer can use super glue if he/she chooses. I prefer to use Elmer's white glue for the race versions, because they will separate on a good impact. I paint the race version parts separately so there isn't any paint webbing/overlap between pieces. This way, when the piece separate in a severe crash, it doesn't take the paintjob with it. If you look at the photo, I 'blackened" in the front of the strut block to give the illusion of separate down struts. Squint your eyes alittle and you'll get the idea. I paint this in flat black on the painted cars. Also, my older F1 was only dilicate in the area where the front nose/monocoque<sp> meets the front of the sidepods. On this version, you can see where I layered the styrene plastic to close-in the front sidepod opening as much as possible. There's much more resin there than my previous effort to say the least.

The rear wing is just sitting on the rear framing around the crown gear. That wing will come off in a barrel-roll crash for sure. If I'm racing, all I'll be doing is putting a couple dabs of white glue on, so I can reglue it when necessary.

I will do as I did with my last F1 for the Tyco pan. I included 2-3 extra (different styles) fron wings, and 1-2 extra rear wings, depending on how generous I was. This should give the racer some extra parts for the next race.

I'm about 45 mins fron pouring the second half of the mold, so i should be casting a couple by 9:30-10pm tonight. Good thing is, I have tomorrow off because the grandkids are in town one more day.

Here's a couple shots of the first cast out of the soup. Looks like it sits high, but that is an illusion because of the angle of the photo. I'm waiting for the next cast to firm-up to see if I have cured the venting of the mold. You can see behind the front axle where the body does not go all the way down into the chassis due to resin not getting there. It usually takes me about 3-5 casts before I learn the mold and get it flowing right.

Ok, here is the first cast taking shape after some sanding on the sidepods and nose. Notice the nose has a more sutle down slope as compared to the original model with the sharper down turn. Same body, only the top of the nose was sanded down. Also, I reduced the height of the airbox a couple mm. In the photos, I have the front wing in both the high and low position to emulate different year cars also. This is not going to be the version I will make the next mold from. I just wanted to play around with the shape to see what it will look like when cleaned up alittle.

The body looks great. since it is resin it may not handle crashes so well. that is not your fault though it is the down side of the material. i think it would make an excellent lexan body, it has nice slim lines good luck with it!

Gary builds his cars to race...no worries...:thumbsup:

Here is what I'm calling "almost done", and getting ready for the final master mold. The front wing can be mounted high or low depending on which car you want to emulate.

Here is a Afx F1 that I chopped on and re-did the side pod and drivers area to give that look so that the body wraps around the chassis.

If anyone has the older AFX Leyland Williams, Liger, or Renault F1's that they want to trade for, let me know. Thanks!!!

Here is what I'm calling "almost done", and getting ready for the final master mold. The front wing can be mounted high or low depending on which car you want to emulate.

Nice! So this body can be used to simulate the cars from the 1994 to 1997 period?

Yes and no. The modern body is more of a hybrid from '95-ish thru '02-ish. '90's nose with hints of '00's airbox and I have no idea which sidepods I was doing. Just sanded them small with a slight bowed curvature. There's still some minor sanding to do today for clean-up reasons. The only dilema I have is the lack of room to put in a cool driver figure due to the height of the front bulkhead. So, I will be putting in a "half" helmet that finds it's way down into the hands. I don't think this will be very detailed. I will be carving the front bulkhead on my own in-house creations to get the look I want.

Deane. What do you think of the second vintage F1????? I still have the second sidepod to do today and will also be adding plastic to give the illusion the sidepod goes all the way to the rear wheels. Once the plastic modeling is done, I will make a mold for the resin casting. Then I will sand the heck out of that until I get a better transition of the sidepod. What's your opinion on this body??????

Do you mean the #6 Williams in post 11? I'm not feeling that as much as the stuff you emailed to me, although it does look cool on the longer wheelbase.

With the Lotus 79 on the MG, I did think you might be able to make one mold that could also pass for a Tyrell 009 and maybe even an FW07, but how many sales you would get I don't know. For sure I would want a couple of 79s, one JPS the other Martini from early the following season.

The ultimate F1 car on the MG platform would be, for me, the Brabham BT50. If I have to get this made somehow as a one-off I will, but I would prefer if others bought some....

So Lotus 79 & Brabham BT50, who is with me?

As for the more modern F1, I guess my favourite color scheme would be the Jacq-attack Williams from 1996, the last year (I think) when there were still some cars on the grid without the raised nose. From 97 onwards the flipups and chimneys start to become more noticable and intrusive.

So Lotus 79 & Brabham BT50, who is with me?

I'll bite on these, Deane. Those are good ideas.

I could go for a remake of the M23 McLaren and 312T2 Ferrari with a side order of Lotus 72 and Brabham BT43/45B. Denny Hulme, Peter Revson, Emo, Hunt the shunt, Niki, Clay, Ronnie, Emo, Carlos Pace and Rega could be represnted with those four cars. 1972 - 1976 were some very classic years for F-1 with respect to both cars and drivers IMHO. Ferrari standing against the Cosworth Brigade was the stuff of legends.

Everyone has their golden period(s) of F1, for me there were two. 1973-76 when it was the drivers that thrilled me but the cars looked a bit lumpy, and 77-83, the height of the ground effect and Turbo cars.

Just playin' around with the DP01 and seeing how it looks as a circa '90's style Indy. Unfortunately, I had to take a knife to the body like Humpty-Dumpty and put it back together again. Whata ya' think? The 3rd pic on the right shows how low I can get the sidepods.

This story has a much happier ending. Nice work, Gar!

Nothin' a skilled Jedi can't do with a lightsaber.

I'd also be nice to someone for a BT50....


Dave

So that is 3 ''orders'' for a BT50 Gary! Actually I will have two so that is 4 :)

So that is 3 ''orders'' for a BT50 Gary! Actually I will have two so that is 4 :)


Heck I'll take 3.. don't forget back then they could have a backup car.....


Dave

So, is that enough Gary, or..... :)

Something like this in the photo? The compromise will be in the sidepod area. They will be higher until I can slope them downward, 'ala the "in-process Williams" in post #11. If I was to fill in and round the nose, that Williams isn't that far off....is it?

As far a doing this (BT50) will depend on how much you guys can bribe me. Actually, I'm looking for the AFX Williams Leyland and Ligier bodies. Anyone willing to trade for BT50's will go along way in pushing me.......lol.

If it is BT50 pictures you would need, don't sweat it :) - that car is something of thing with me and I have loads of them....

The classic bodies I don't have any of, but I have to believe some must have. The 79 often seemed to throw its decals, so what happened to those bodies?

Ok, a couple questions and thoughts.

1. Back to the Williams in #11. If I was to fill in the dropped nose and round things out alittle, can you see the BT50 if you squint hard enough?

2. Picture the same car in #11. If I was to bring the rear of the sidepods back to the rear wheels, and sand the front of the sidepod back alittle, this is what the side pod will look like. Is that exceptable for the BT50?

3. Here is a pic of the Williams body I'm looking for. Deane, a man of your obvious resources and connections should be able to score a junkyard or scrap body for the "let's get Gary to make the BT50 fund".......:tongue:

Think about the #11 post body with modified front nose and smoothed out edges to the sidepods.

I always lose when I bid for those on feePay. Good luck, hope you can get one.