Hi guys,

I'm looking to build a lap counter. I am using AFX track with the new power supplies put out by them.

I've read about the 3 kinds of counters.

Is it true a dead strip can burn out my computer? If so I'll skip that method.

The optical counters look complicated - I'm saving those as a last resort.

Will magnetic reed counters work well? Will they burn out my computer if something happens?

Anyone know where I can go to find a schematic and parts list for them?

Thanks!

Have you checked out http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/index.html? Look under the lap counter link.Lots of good info to be had on this topic.Also check out this site for some good reading too http://howorld.fsmra.com/pages/archives.html

Hey thanks for the links! Lots of info there I didn't see. However, I'm still trying to figure out if a Reed Switch setup needs to be isolated from the PC so that it doesn't burn anything out like a dead strip can?

Thanks!

I use mag reed switches with the LapTimer 2000 setup.I started with the IR LED setup & had nothing but problems with it counting laps consistenly.I changed over to reeds and have had a little better luck.Does'nt miss as many lap counts.I dont think you have anything to worry about with the reeds destroying your computer-but dont quote me on that.I think my problems are more computer related than scoring system.My laptop only has USB connections and i have to use a joystick to USB adaptor.They say the printer & joystick ports are the most reliable with the reed switches & IR LED setups.Good Luck and keep us posted on your results!!!:)

AFX are bringing out a much improved version of the Tomy 'Control Station' next year, so it might be worth seeing how long a wait we are talking about before deciding.

I went with the IR lights and the Laptimer 2000 program. I've never had any issues with it at all. I'm using an old Gateway desktop with Windows 95. The computer itself was purchased new in '97. It can handle a whopping 64MB of RAM! I purchased a ready-made IR light bar from the TrakMate guy (Dave Grohl I think it is). I purchased the photo cells to pick up the IR lights thru a fleabay seller. It's a printer port connection.

One tip I read about using IR lights is that they can't be more than about 3" away from the track to get a good "reading".

I went with reeds and Laptimer 2000:

http://routedtrack.hobby-site.com/?file=construction2.html

Cheers

Richard

I run a track mate and IR set up never had a issue my buddy made the IR tower works great. I tried the dead strip could not get it to work and alot of drivers dont like them. Not sure why

Bohh --

All kinds of lap-counting 'triggers' (optical, dead strip, reed switch, etc) can work -- and be computer-safe -- if implemented correctly, but every kind of trigger has its particular shortcomings, too.

There is a good article on HOWorld.com (http://howorld.fsmra.com/archives/howto/lap_counter_activator_strips/comparison.html) that compares the different types of trigger. The article also has some recommendations on how to test a lap counter, which is more important than you might think.

Bottom line: All kinds of triggers can be made to work, but some triggers are better than others for particular kinds of cars.

If you have the $$$ (which is getting tougher nowdays!), Trackmate (http://www.trackmateracing.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=11&cat=%3Cimg+src%3D%22images%2Fimages_header%2Farrow _red2.gif%22+border%3D%220%22%3ELap+Counters+Windo ws)is hard to beat.

-- Bill

Here is another way that I haven't seen before. Looks interesting though.
http://homeracingworld.yuku.com/topic/12151/t/Freaked-out-about-tieing-your-computer-into-your-race-track.html

I came across this thread and thought I would try this webcam timing since it seems like the easiest way to go. I'm not sure what the problem I'm having is but I can't get it to count every lap. I'm using a 24fps camera that is VGA resolution on a computer that has a P4 chip with a gig of ram. Has anyone tried this program (webcam zone trigger)?

Reeds from Newark: SKU:65K1059, MFR#:RI-27AA. 1-800-4NEWARK. Might still be on sale for under $1.00ea. Will work for stock up to Mod cars, full Poly you will need a stonger pull. Hope this is what your looking for.Never had a CPU problem with these reeds........ running SRT timing&scoring.

Reeds from Newark: SKU:65K1059, MFR#:RI-27AA. 1-800-4NEWARK. Might still be on sale for under $1.00ea. Will work for stock up to Mod cars, full Poly you will need a stonger pull. Hope this is what your looking for.Never had a CPU problem with these reeds........ running SRT timing&scoring.

Thanks, I ordered them ($0.70 ea). We're running SG+ & SRT's so they will work fine. The web cam thing is cool if you can get it to pick up the cars consistently but I couldn't.

I was unsucsessful at my attempt with reed switches and Laptimer 2000, I would miss laps every couple laps. I went to Radio shack and went the optical rout and never looked back. its not that hard, and seems to work flawlessly. Good luck with which ever you choose. Jim

I use Slot Race manager.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/44/l_d481309e8ceb4805bb911564cbab70a0.jpg

It's a freeware DOS program you can use on any old beat up PC

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/48/l_08de682be1934bc9a35935d30194a822.jpg

It's super accurate but doesn't have any sounds. That's okay because I usually make my own sounds (engines, tire squeals, crashes, etc.)
I use the IR setup. It's super easy, a regular 40w bulb lights the IRs. No florescence.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/60/l_5137ed9750354c16872cbd487df39858.jpg

You can get the program for free here....
http://www.cenobyte.nl/slotracemanager/

Hope this helps.

Rich

I use Slot Race manager.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/44/l_d481309e8ceb4805bb911564cbab70a0.jpg

It's a freeware DOS program you can use on any old beat up PC

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/48/l_08de682be1934bc9a35935d30194a822.jpg

It's super accurate but doesn't have any sounds. That's okay because I usually make my own sounds (engines, tire squeals, crashes, etc.)
I use the IR setup. It's super easy, a regular 40w bulb lights the IRs. No florescence.

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/60/l_5137ed9750354c16872cbd487df39858.jpg

You can get the program for free here....
http://www.cenobyte.nl/slotracemanager/

Hope this helps.

Rich
SRM Is the cats meow!!!! LOVE IT!!!!!!!!Best free timing app out

I
It's super accurate but doesn't have any sounds. That's okay because I usually make my own sounds (engines, tire squeals, crashes, etc.)


Rich

Rich also does a very good Danica Patrick sound when he crashes Its Dave's Fault or Lonny's fault or Dans Fault.. stomp stomp stomp..lol

I have a 2000 with IR leds and it works great. The only issue is when you come off the track, put it back on and complete the lap alot of the time it is a fast time,next lap is totally off the wall high,next lap is back to nomal.does anyone else experience this or is it gremlins in me basement?

Hi! Slotrods,you Are Picking Up Efi,or Emi Interference From Your Flouresent Lights,or Electrical Switching Device In Your Cellar,common Problem With Ir Sensors. Daves Model Racing Engineering -shop-781-828-4141.

Rich also does a very good Danica Patrick sound when he crashes Its Dave's Fault or Lonny's fault or Dans Fault.. stomp stomp stomp..lol

This was so funny when I read this Coach, I didn't know how to respond. Let's try honesty. Okay, yes, I have been known to whine.

Rich:drunk:

This was so funny when I read this Coach, I didn't know how to respond. Let's try honesty. Okay, yes, I have been known to whine.

Rich:drunk:

Better then Me rich who sits in disbelief when the marshells tangle my car up lol..Don't forget the 21st for the Seniors, then we'll see some grumpy old men for sure.. lol


Dave

The only issue is when you come off the track, put it back on and complete the lap alot of the time it is a fast time,next lap is totally off the wall high,next lap is back to nomal.does anyone else experience this or is it gremlins in me basement?

There should be a setting in the software for "minimum lap time." If you are placing the crashed car back on the track in a place that shortcuts the circuit and results in an artificially short lap time, one below the minimum lap time setting, then the software should not count the lap. It should not record the artificially short lap time as a hot lap either. Whether the software references the next legal lap time from the original lap where you wrecked or from the next time that you crossed through the counter is subject to interpretation. It sounds like the software author decided to base the next legal lap time on the original lap where you wrecked, which clearly explains the behavior you describe. It makes sense from a racing standpoint, but doing it the other way would give you a better lap time from a data gathering standpoint. The fast lap should be ignored if it's under the minimum. If you are getting credit for a lap that comes in under the minimum lap time, or if the artificially short lap time is recorded as a hot lap, because of where your car is placed after a wreck, then that would be a bug in the software.

It must be a bug, because it always records the lap and most of the time it showes it as your fastest time. thanks afxtoo

And version 2.41 is just out :thumbsup:

I debated for months on what type of timing system to use.

Optical seemed the best bet but I was detered by the price of the nicer kits and intimidated by the thought of building one.

Thankfully the wifey just told me to order the Trackmate system....mostly to just shut me up I think.

What's everyone's experience with Trackmate? Is it worth the money? :confused:

I've already spent a week trying to get a homemade system to work relaibly and I'd rather spend my time racing on different layouts as I try to settle on one to build.

If Trackmate works right out of the box - then it will save me countless hours. :woohoo:

Thanks for your help. :thumbsup:


Bob B.

What's everyone's experience with Trackmate? Is it worth the money?

If you get one of the full turnkey systems from TrackMate it will work great and you will not be monkeying around for hours or days trying to get the kinks worked out. If your time is more valuable than money, it's an easy choice in my opinion.

The whole enchilada system for HO is $198 with Windows based software, IR sensors, IR light gantry, track call button, power relay, and cables. The only material you must supply is the wiring between your power supply and the relay, the wiring between the relay and your track, and the wiring to the track call button. The track power relay has a spade style connector and you must either solder the wires directly to the spade connectors or buy some female quick disconnect connectors that slide over the spade connectors on the relay and solder or crimp them to the wires. I happened to have some of these connectors laying around and used them. I had to put some heat shrink over the connectors because the ones I had were not insulated.

You would not typically go through the effort of wiring up an infrared based timing system on a temporary setup because of the need to drill holes in the table and track to mount the sensors. If you are going to need a timing system for a track that gets changed around frequently you may want to use a dead strip based system from TrackMate instead. This would omit the need for the IR sensors and light gantry.

Whatever system you choose, the track power rely is essential for running races efficiently and at a pro level.

The TrackMate software works well. It is not the coolest looking Windows based race management software on the planet, somewhat dated look about it, early 90s, Win 3.1/NT 3.5 looking, but it's underlying feature set is superb, very much in sync with the features pro racers require to run the whole show on race day. The sound options are actually quite useful, and in general, not gratuitous. I would recommend at least a Pentium III 550 MHz system with Windows 2000 and 256 MB RAM as a minimum. Running XP, bump it up to 800 MHz PIII and 512 MB RAM or so, Vista 1.6 GHz P4 or Core2 and 2.0 GB RAM. If the PC is not networked, strip out all the firewall and anti-virus stuff and any other software that always runs in the background.

If you get one of the full turnkey systems from TrackMate it will work great and you will not be monkeying around for hours or days trying to get the kinks worked out. If your time is more valuable than money, it's an easy choice in my opinion.
AfxToo - Thanks for the advice. :thumbsup:
Looks like I've got more to think about :rolleyes:

I also use the SRM program works great and you cant beat the price

Anyone ever tried reed switches like these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Surface-Mount-Reed-Switch-New-Pkg-of-10_W0QQitemZ140320003340QQcmdZViewItemQQptZModel_R R_Trains?hash=item20abb9550c&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Thanks,

Bob B.

I've had similar pieces in some of my train passenger cars. The glass is a bit brittle on the ends, but they worked alright. They weren't mounted solid to anything.. just kinda wired to the unit. The other thing that makes a difference is how many amps are going through the connection. I had slightly larger ones on my automated RR Xing, and the amperage (about 1 amp) was too much for them to handle. The reeds got fused within a week of testing. Whether they will work will depend on how much juice is going thrugh them, and how sensitive they are to magnets...