Would someone take a picture of their sail where the hatch is and tell me what part #59 is? I haven't a part 59 and am missing whatever goes there. The part is not explained and is only shown in the small diagram.

Contact beatlepaul, he has built a few of these.

59 is the compass like object standing inside the bridge. It's on sprue DHS019, two parts left of the sprue label, next to one of the periscopes, part 102. According to David Merriman's making the Seaview article on Cultman which I just stumbled across a couple days ago, this wasn't something actually ever used on real submarines, only the Seaview, so if you've lost it you could leave it off, fill the hole in the bottom of the bridge, and consider it making your model more "realistic".

Thanks.

Part 59 is the binacle - the big standup compass. The part itself is a short cylinder that might have broken off your sprue and is rolling around at the bottom of the box.

I don't have a photo of the part but will try to track one down for you.

If you've lost the part, you shouldn't have much trouble creating a new one from some stretched sprue or a bit of small tubing.

Part 59 is the binacle - the big standup compass. The part itself is a short cylinder that might have broken off your sprue and is rolling around at the bottom of the box.

I don't have a photo of the part but will try to track one down for you.

If you've lost the part, you shouldn't have much trouble creating a new one from some stretched sprue or a bit of small tubing.


I'm afraid I'm a bit anal. :freak:I contacted Moebius about a replacement part. Thanks for the help.

Sorry to post this link again, I know some of you guys are sick of it but it's got some nice reference photos. So here you go-hope this helps.
http://www.fxmodels.com/seaview.shtml

I'm afraid I'm a bit anal. :freak:I contacted Moebius about a replacement part. Thanks for the help.


That's the Best move you could make.

Frank will take care of you.

Jeff, this is the first time I'm seeing that link....OMG!!!!! What a FANTASTIC model!! Thanks for reposting it!!

Wayne

Not a problem. We gotcha back around here! :thumbsup:

Well this very cool. :wave:
I am almost finished building my Seaview model, thinking it would be great if it had interior lights. I have read since that there is a lighting kit for the Seaview. Installing it however would mean having to take some parts of it (the sail and the tail fins that have lights) apart. I am not sure that it is worth it. Also the videos I have seen show a more detailed control room than I had anticipated. To those who have installed the light kit, was it worth it?

RJarrin - if you haven't glued the sail in place yet, you might be able to fish the LEDs in place.

For the tail lights, you might be able to run fiber optice up through the channel molded in them.

As to whether the lighting is worth it, that's really a judgement call that has to come from you.

Well this very cool. :wave:
I am almost finished building my Seaview model, thinking it would be great if it had interior lights. I have read since that there is a lighting kit for the Seaview. Installing it however would mean having to take some parts of it (the sail and the tail fins that have lights) apart. I am not sure that it is worth it. Also the videos I have seen show a more detailed control room than I had anticipated. To those who have installed the light kit, was it worth it?

I can only ask, is it worth showing off all the fine work you've put into your
build? :rolleyes: For me, IMHO, this and all the IA vehicles that Moebius has
out now and will do down the road allow the builder to go all out or not, it's
up to you. Please take some time to see all the fine work done so far by the
group, it just might give you the answer.:thumbsup:

It may not be worth tearing your Seaview apart at this point.

Yes, you could fish the LED'S through the Hull etc, But Lighting a Model like this is better Planned before the build.

Like one of the guys said, take some pictures of what you have now and post them.

Or take what you learned on this build and do another with a full lighting package.

But this Model really comes to life when Lighted Correctly.:thumbsup:

I think what beatlepaul says makes sense. I will post pictures of wha I have a bit later. What light kits are available? Thanks once again.

Beatlepaul, what did you use to light yours and what would you do differently with the lighting you installed ? when I build mine i want to make sure i have the right amount of lighting to show all of the interior details. BTW BP, How many seaviews have you built so far ?
bert

Beatlepaul, what did you use to light yours and what would you do differently with the lighting you installed ? when I build mine i want to make sure i have the right amount of lighting to show all of the interior details. BTW BP, How many seaviews have you built so far ?
bert


Howdy Bert:wave:

To Light my Seaviews I used my Own Lighting kit. I used About 10 LED'S in the interior alone(two for the lights either side of the FS Bay and the main spot light).
I also used gels and such to recreate the look of the Original .I also used incandesent bulbs for the Tail and rear Sail Light, Again to reproduce what was used on the Original Miniature.

I have Built FOUR so far and am currently finishing up a custom build:woohoo:

Beatlepaul, what did you use to light yours and what would you do differently with the lighting you installed ? when I build mine i want to make sure i have the right amount of lighting to show all of the interior details. BTW BP, How many seaviews have you built so far ?
bert

Here is an idea that I did for mine, I used white chip (SMT) LEDs so as
not to change the colors I used in the control room. The LEDs are on a drimmer circuit so I can control how bright they are. I think it came out
O.K. I would post more pictures but the forum only gives 4Mb total for
pictures.:confused: I've had to delete alot of pictures I had posted in the past.....:freak: These pictures are from an earlier post. It's just a dry fit for now, I still have alot of work to do on the control room.:wave:

Here is an idea that I did for mine, I used white chip (SMT) LEDs so as
not to change the colors I used in the control room. The LEDs are on a drimmer circuit so I can control how bright they are. I think it came out
O.K. I would post more pictures but the forum only gives 4Mb total for
pictures.:confused: I've had to delete alot of pictures I had posted in the past.....:freak: These pictures are from an earlier post. It's just a dry fit for now, I still have alot of work to do on the control room.:wave:


I think it's loooookin goooood!

I think it's loooookin goooood!

Thank you for the nice words......

Teslabe - I think I mentioned that I liked the circuit board ceiling in the other forum, but I just realized that you had the surface mount LEDs on it.

That is flipping great!

I've been liking the looks of them for ages but hadn't come up with a practical use for them or a decent mounting system - you've just solved both of those problems for me! Thanks!

(P.S. Awesome build.)

Teslabe - I think I mentioned that I liked the circuit board ceiling in the other forum, but I just realized that you had the surface mount LEDs on it.

That is flipping great!

I've been liking the looks of them for ages but hadn't come up with a practical use for them or a decent mounting system - you've just solved both of those problems for me! Thanks!

(P.S. Awesome build.)

Thank you again Paul...:wave: Let me know if you need any info on the LEDs
or the protoboard I used. I have about four types of SMT LEDs that I use in my builds, mostly white.
But I have some RGB (red,green&blue) SMT LEDs that I used in the sail. You
can now get them as bright as 5000mcd, these are 2300, so they very bright
that's why I use a small drimmer circuit with them.:thumbsup: Just let me if
you like some closeup pictures of how I hook them up. The first two photos
are of the RGB LEDs for the sail, the third is one of the LEDs I used in the
control room ceiling and the Spot/Fog lights for my Chariot.

That's looking awesome!

That's looking awesome!

If that was for me, Thank you very much........:wave:
If not, I'm sorry for assuming.:(

Let me know if you need any info on the LEDs
or the protoboard I used.

Yes, please!

One thing I really like about your using many LEDs in the ceiling is that it adds light AND shadow to the interior - it really adds to the realism.

(Major pet peeve with some modeling - windows, controls, etc. that have perfectly even lighting. Check out a car's tail light - tons of lighting variation.)

Thats looks Great ! How are those battery operated LEDS you see in wal-mart ? I think 10 to a string, Are those brite enough and which way do they need to be pointed ?

Thats looks Great ! How are those battery operated LEDS you see in wal-mart ? I think 10 to a string, Are those brite enough and which way do they need to be pointed ?

Hi Bert, Thank you, if that was for me.:wave: I have never be a fan of
using Christmas lights in a kit. The wire is too large for most kits, the base
on each bulb or LED is too long to conceal. I would only use LEDs, Incandescent bulbs will fail and if your kit is sealed, you have no real way
to replace it. For me, IMHO, todays LEDs just look and work so much better
than anything else out there. I use discrete LEDs, everything from 5mm,3mm,
SMT (chip), single color, dual and RGB. The choices are endless. I use many
ways to hookup the LEDs, direct wires or protoboards. It's the kit that drives
my approach. I buy my LEDs off EBay, from China and the prices are great.:thumbsup:

I have been seeing battery operated LED light sets with about 10 lights clear and color for around $7, just wondering if those are bright enough ? I have used the other kind a time or too and they stopped working after the kit was sealed up, so LEDS are the way to go.

Model Maker: if anything they're probably too bright for use with a model, which is why you want to wire them up to some kind of control. In car kits, or the Chariot, you either want to try to find two leds with the same apparent brightness to use as matched pairs of headlights or use a couple variable resistors to adjust the brightness the same.
Leds do fail, too. How many of us have a piece of stereo equipment w/o a working power indicator? They last hugely longer than incandescents, and because they throw no heat they're great for use in teeny cramped models. But by heating the leads too hot when soldering you can damage them and shorten their lifespans or kill them outright (always use a heatsink and a low wattage gun and be quick and careful) and don't bend the leads more than you have to. If you're going to bend the leads to make them fit somewhere, don't bend them at the very base of the led. That's where they're most fragile and prone to snapping with just three or four repeated bends, or weakening and then unexpectedly failing inside the model. It's happened to me before. You really hone your modeling skills when you have to open up a body, replace a led, and then refinish the model so that no one would ever know. Always try to leave enough loose wire that the ded led can be pulled far enough out of the model that you have room to rewrap and resolder.
As long as you treat them as if they're much more fragile than incandescents, because in some ways they are, 99% of them should stay lit continuously in your model for years. But do plan for that other 1%.

I have been seeing battery operated LED light sets with about 10 lights clear and color for around $7, just wondering if those are bright enough ? I have used the other kind a time or too and they stopped working after the kit was sealed up, so LEDS are the way to go.

Hi Bert, at $7, I'd say, try them, if they look good to you go for it. After all
it's your build.....;) Just don't rip them apart til you know if they will work for you, that way you can get your money back.:wave:

Model Maker: if anything they're probably too bright for use with a model, which is why you want to wire them up to some kind of control. In car kits, or the Chariot, you either want to try to find two leds with the same apparent brightness to use as matched pairs of headlights or use a couple variable resistors to adjust the brightness the same.
Leds do fail, too. How many of us have a piece of stereo equipment w/o a working power indicator? They last hugely longer than incandescents, and because they throw no heat they're great for use in teeny cramped models. But by heating the leads too hot when soldering you can damage them and shorten their lifespans or kill them outright (always use a heatsink and a low wattage gun and be quick and careful) and don't bend the leads more than you have to. If you're going to bend the leads to make them fit somewhere, don't bend them at the very base of the led. That's where they're most fragile and prone to snapping with just three or four repeated bends, or weakening and then unexpectedly failing inside the model. It's happened to me before. You really hone your modeling skills when you have to open up a body, replace a led, and then refinish the model so that no one would ever know. Always try to leave enough loose wire that the ded led can be pulled far enough out of the model that you have room to rewrap and resolder.
As long as you treat them as if they're much more fragile than incandescents, because in some ways they are, 99% of them should stay lit continuously in your model for years. But do plan for that other 1%.

Hi 71, I find that a 48hr burn-in on any LED I'm going to use, a good rule.
If it is going to fail, it will normally do it in it's first 24hrs.:thumbsup:

Teslabe - I think I mentioned that I liked the circuit board ceiling in the other forum, but I just realized that you had the surface mount LEDs on it.

That is flipping great!

I've been liking the looks of them for ages but hadn't come up with a practical use for them or a decent mounting system - you've just solved both of those problems for me! Thanks!

(P.S. Awesome build.)

Hi Paul, here is a close-up of the LEDs I used. The holes are .1" apart.

Thanks for the great photo.

I can just see myself frying a bunch of them getting the soldering technique down ... but it will be worth the investment.

Thanks teslabe, and 71 Challenger. the leds would be for general lighting to iluminate the interior such as my polar lights Jupiter 2. I need something i can hide well and will make enough light to see details through the viewport windows. 71 CHALLENGER, how did you come by with your screen name ? do you own a 71 ?
bert