guys ,
i'm looking for the best and quickest diecast paint stripper that leaves little or NO damage but still gets ALL the paint / print work too off . Whatever help would be nice as i'm just plain tired of all the half as-ed options i have used over time.

thanks , Dennis :freak:

I used to strip diecast cars in the past.. i used this spray can called klean-strip premium stripper it does a good job..

I ll take pics of it.. check it out. hope this helps or maybe someone else has a better one.

Wes

Wes ,
thanks alot . I can't say i have seen this one before so something new may be worth a look . Is this a Walmart item or where can a guy get some ?

Thanks, Dennis :thumbsup:

Wes ,
thanks alot . I can't say i have seen this one before so something new may be worth a look . Is this a Walmart item or where can a guy get some ?

Thanks, Dennis :thumbsup:

its been a while that i cannot remember its either home depot or walmart not sure.. umm if you plan to get it make sure you get those big rubber gloves and do it outside.. they stink bad. fyi

Wes

Most of your hard core paint and "schle-varn-ique" (shellac, varnish, lacquer) strippers are a methelene chloride base.

AKA: aircraft stripper...comes in two types ...a fairly uncommon and nearly unavailable pure form that furniture strippers and restoration specialists use in dip or recirculation tanks.

and...

The gellatinous stuff that many of us are familiar with. Gel-strip comes in bulk cans or aerosol. It is primarily intended for paint or coating removal on vertical surfaces were the afore-mentioned liquid form would run off. Obviously it is dilute by volume because the formulation contains a gellatinous wax that enables it to stick to vertical surfaces or even upside down if carefully used!

I like the regular gallon version as the aerosol is kinda spendy by comparison.

The idea is to keep the solvent in contact with the surface. You'll note that generally the instructions recommend that the product be brushed on in one direction only. This is so the solvent remains trapped between the workpiece and the gelatinous colloid that it is suspended in. DONT BACK BRUSH IT! Just let her cook and eat. Continued back brushing allows the active ingredient to evaporate prematurely.

During 1:1 car restorations we would often brush an entire car down towards the end of the week say thursday or friday night. Then all surfaces would be covered with shrink wrap or stretchfilm to keep the active solvent from evaporating. The car would be scraped in 48 hrs or so. Often much of the old finish will lift off with the film. We picked this trick up from building restorers who often stripped ornately carved woodwork that had been painted over in the pastel era.

Remember that this stuff will burn your skin on contact and eventually smoke through gloves. It'll kill, mar, or destroy pretty much anything that isnt metal wood or stone; especially any plastic! So your cleaning brushes and scrapers must be wood handled, metal edged and or organic bristled. This would include the death of items like windshields and plastic doodads on diecasts. Use only in a well ventilated areas!!!

This is not to say that this stuff isnt great, I use it ALL THE TIME! However it should be ONLY and ALWAYS be used and disposed of with due care and caution.

I've used the Kleen Strip - Low Order Aircraft Paint Remover available at Auto Zone type stores, in quart size. Just saturate the diecast with it for a few minutes, then wash it off with a hose and water. Water neutralizes the stripper. Works great...RM
P.S. It will burn the skin as Mr. Bill mentioned!!!

Guys ,
many thanks ! That's the type info i was looking for . Glad to hear well versed people fill in the blanks for me . Now i can get back to hacking up another vehicle . Lets see dremel , hobby knife , bench grinder , drill press , evergreen , gobs of glues , bondo and yea i'm ready to rock ! Now i just need calibrated eyes and a surgeons steady hands. Ahh crap i just may be in trouble LOL. Thanks again.

Dennis :jest: