Anyone have a suggestion for a 6V reciever pack for running 1S lipo?

I put a RC4LESS 5 cell 120 mah nicad in my 1 cell car, car uses about 55 mah per run, my transmitter charger has a tap for the receive pack already. Some folks are promoting lipo receive packs, then you need a voltage reduce becasue 8.4 vdc is to much for the receivers and servo. KISS, keep it simple.

...been running a Micro-T pack (Lipo 2c) as a receiver pack for over a year now with a 9650 servo and a Spektrum micro receiver - 2 cars - no problems. The Spektrum micro handles up to 9.0V and the Futaba 9650 is recommended to use at LEAST 6.0V for performance...not capped at. Regulator NOT mandatory with 2c Lipo receiver pack depending on your equip. Stating that you need one is FALSE.

I just got an email from Futaba technical support.

They suggest you run a cap if you run a 2s lipo receiver pack.

I don't know if they just wanna be ultra cautious, but I would still go with the regulator just to be safe, but that's just me.

A lot of 4-cell racers ran 6-cell NiMh receiver packs.

http://teampowerpush.com/images/2003cleveland04.jpg

I just use a 4-cell 400mah RX pack. The pack was $7 from CheapBatteryPack.com The pack is a little bigger than the micro Spektrum and a 150mah 5-cell pack. I thought it was worth the trade off of having nearly triple the capacity with only 1/3 increase of pack size at $3 less than the 5-cell pack.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/3075697953_6732ebd95b.jpg (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/3075697953_6732ebd95b_b.jpg)

*edit*

The little picture of the ESC switch was just showing that I covered the switch with heatshrink so not to accidently turn on the ESC. I only want to turn on the RX battery pack.

I've had one DNF in the last year due to a battle royal...no equipment failures. I'll continue to run my naked 2c receiver pack. :)

I have also been running the Micro T reciever pack without a regulator for about a year now. I just got it because it was so small, I could use the weight anyways. And I thought that was why racin jason was so fast lol.

Electronics: Futaba 9650 servo, Futaba Fasst system, LRP Sphere = no issues at all.

I once said I would quit if I had to run a receiver pack, but it hasn't been a big deal to run it at all.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSB0863
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSB0862

Tomy Moffre has this receiver pack issue figured out!

Drop him a line

Hitman

I just use a 4-cell 400mah RX pack. The pack was $7 from CheapBatteryPack.com The pack is a little bigger than the micro Spektrum and a 150mah 5-cell pack. I thought it was worth the trade off of having nearly triple the capacity with only 1/3 increase of pack size at $3 less than the 5-cell pack.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/3075697953_6732ebd95b.jpg (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3057/3075697953_6732ebd95b_b.jpg)

*edit*

The little picture of the ESC switch was just showing that I covered the switch with heatshrink so not to accidently turn on the ESC. I only want to turn on the RX battery pack.

.....

The are KAN 400mah 2/3AAA Cells
9.9mm Dia x 28.7mm Long

I went with a brick pack style over the flat pack style. I was mistaken on the price: $8 for the assembled pack with connector of choice, not $7.

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/cellinfo.asp?invid=KAN400AAA

TY All. I have the 5 cell 1/3 aaa packs but was hoping there was a newer option in the same size without gong to a lipo.

I put a RC4LESS 5 cell 120 mah nicad in my 1 cell car, car uses about 55 mah per run, my transmitter charger has a tap for the receive pack already.

Ron,

I thought 2 runs nearly drained a much larger receiver pack in single cell lipo ... your numbers look much closer to what I'm used to seeing w/ a receiver pack.

Although I don't use those new much higher drain digital servos, etc.

I have also been running the Micro T reciever pack without a regulator for about a year now. I just got it because it was so small, I could use the weight anyways. And I thought that was why racin jason was so fast lol.

Electronics: Futaba 9650 servo, Futaba Fasst system, LRP Sphere = no issues at all.

I once said I would quit if I had to run a receiver pack, but it hasn't been a big deal to run it at all.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSB0863
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSB0862

Do you have a pic of your setup? Do you also use anything to limit the voltage from the pack to the receiver?

I have a pic, but first I want to clarify I meant I have been using this receiver pack with NiMh batteries, not the 1C Lipo.

We ran 1C Lipo and found the Micro T receiver pack worked flawlessly with the Novak GTB speed control.
There are some bugs that need to be worked out when running either a Tekin or LRP...both escs would slow down significantly at about the 3 1/2 minute mark.
We are not sure if it's a software issue, that is not allowing the speed control to run under a certain voltage that could possibly be changed, say with an update for the Tekins or if there is a component issue where something like the fets would have to be changed. A big Mah receiver pack like Tony Moffre was using may be the fix (bandaid for now). I'm no expert on this so I could be way off base.

We (Jason Nick and I) have not been running a regulator in the year we have been running the receiver pack in our cars and they have worked flawlessly.

With that said here is the pic (nothing special). http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/Car12.JPG

Like Tommy and Jason- I'm running the Micro T pack as well (on NiMh powered oval and 12th scale cars) One year, no problems without a regulator.

I've run the MicroT 2 cell LiPo pack with a pair of diodes (Radio Shack 276-1101). Each diode will drop 1.6v from the battery so using 2 diodes will drop the fully charged 8.4V to 6.2V. As the battery discharges the LiPo limit of 6v would only be sending 3.8v to the reciever, which means a Spektrum reciever would probably loose connection before the LiPo gets damaged. Sort of a defacto LiPo cutoff. To do this wire the diodes in series on the negative lead between the switch and reciever, the striped end should be toward the battery's negative. I used a cheap Hobbico field charger to charge the battery at .2A.

Bob

There are a few reasons I went with the diodes:

The first is that a friend of mine with a rock crawler burnt up a servo then a receiver with a 2 cell LiPo powering his radio before he figured out it was the battery. The manual for the $80 Spektrum receiver I run says 4.8V - 6V. The diodes cost $.99.

Second is that the diode does not add resistance, it just cuts down the voltage. Since V=IR and R is constant then lowering V should also mean the I (current) is lowered as well. If I understand it right, the battery should last longer on a charge, but the steering servo will only perform to spec.

Third, The original Gold Tub RC10 came with a three prong battery plug that sported two dropping diodes, one for 6 cell and a second for seven. Worked fine back then and it still works today.

Fourth, I didn't see it, but someone blew up a MicroT LiPo pack at The Birds. Don't know why, but I'd guess over-discharge then recharging. Adding diodes should prevent over discharge as I posted above.

Did I mention that the diodes only cost $.99?

Bob

I am running the micro-t lipo setup as a receiver pack with a 9550 futaba servo, pt, 4c gtb and spectrum mini receiver. No problems yet, but for .99 insurance sounds like a good idea. Bob can you post a pic how the diodes are put together?

I can't at the moment, but I can describe it better:

In addition to the diodes youll need a 4 AA battery harness with the 2 prong plug between the battery clip and switch. Most radios come with these and most of us electric guys just ignore them.


Fully charge your 1 cell LiPo and use it to fully set up your ESC
If you can, remove your ESC power switch (which is simple on the GTB). If you can't then turn it off and throw some shrink tube over it so that it can't be turned on.
Take the two diodes and glue them together side by side with the stripes at opposite ends.
Twist and solder one end together. Clip off the excess wire lead.
Prise open the switch and pull the negative wire out (it shouldn't be connected to anything).
Cut the negative wire and solder in the diodes. The striped lead faces the battery socket while the unmarked faces the receiver plug.
Put some shrink tube over the diodes and glue it to the switch.


You'll need to carefully change the two prong plug on the Losi Lipo and rig up a matching charging jack for your charger.

Bob

If that works for you fine, but I'd rather have the right plug and socket on my rig.

How many runs between charging? Also how long does this little thing take to charge?

I recharge the micro-t pack after each run with the charge it came with. Does not take to long to recharge. I tried recharging after two runs but didn't want to forget to recharge it so now its part of my route to recharge after each run. Last weekends race we had 3 qualifiers and a main. I did not turn the reciever pack on for the 1st and 2nd heats and had no power problems. Makes you wonder if you really need it for 4 minute oval racing.

We also had some SKs running 13.5/1c without a receiver or booster with no issues.

i running the micro-t pack as well i recharge after each run takes between 25 and 30 mah tor recharge. i also just do it every time so i don't forget.

i have a micro t pack. but i dont understand how people wire them for a switch. i tried a extra novak switch that i took off a old brushless speedo and i couldnt get it to work. so could someone possibly post a detailed pic of how they wired the reciever pack? i just dont get it. lol

If you change the plug on the micro t pack to a Futaba J plug then you can buy a JR switch that already has the step down diodes in it. Then you just make up a little plug unit to charge the micro t pack on your turbo or checkpoint. Just remember not to charge over 1/2 amp. I will post pics as soon as I see the car again, I built it for a friend of mine and he is on vacation.

cool thanks

porks novak has a setup that has the voltage step down "regulater" that has a switch built in. I have used this and it works very well. Maximus has them at least the last time I looked in stock.
If you want to try one you are welcome to try mine with my losi mocro-t pack.

part # for novak regulator with switch ?

part # for novak regulator with switch ?

Not sure which Novak product you are asking about?

SmartBoost? (http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=5474/135.0.19780.47841.0.0.0)

post #30 mentioned a novak part, and also have gtb thats slower with 1s 13.5 or 2s 21.5 with normal switch setup, take switch out and run reciever pack is fast, is this normal or is the gtb bad ,this was a refurbished one bought off your novak website,1s 13.5 won't run at all without rec. pack

post #30 mentioned a novak part, and also have gtb thats slower with 1s 13.5 or 2s 21.5 with normal switch setup, take switch out and run reciever pack is fast, is this normal or is the gtb bad ,this was a refurbished one bought off your novak website,1s 13.5 won't run at all without rec. pack

Hi Birdman,

Your question far exceeds my poor power to help.

I'd advise you to contact cs@teamnovak.com with your questions. They will probably need specific info on all your electronics:

Speed control, servo, receiver, batteries and any other data you can provide.

I have heard/read that quite a few people are running the micro T 2cell for a receiver pack with no troubles. Like to wire in a micro switch on it. I am planning on running my 9550 servo and a Spektrum micro pro receiver. If I couldn't find the right switch for the receiver pack, could I just unplug it instead of the switch? What type of switch do I need to buy for this pack?

I'm also going to use the GTB and unplug the switch so the speed control doesn't get turned on by accident. If you take the on/off switch out, how would you set up the speed control? (it's brand new). Would you set it up on a 2 cell lipo pack first?

I am thinking of the 2 Radio Shack Diodes like the guys on page 2 talked about...

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this right without burning something up. I am also running the 13.5/1cell class. I was going to get the TQ booster but hearing the problems, I'd rather not get one at this time.

Thanks for any and all help.
Heath

Anyone?

Thanks Casper,
I don't have a problem with doing that but I don't want to shorten the life of my servo and or my receiver.
What about setting my GTB since it is brand new? Do I set it with a 2 cell pack because the programming button is in the switch? Sorry for rambling. I'm just stumped on this thing...Thanks again, the help is much appreciated.

Heath

ImgoinRCn:

First, if you run a GTB, you don't need a receiver pack.
If you want a receiver pack, yes the micro-t packs works great. Yes, you could disconnect it. If you want to add a switch, any switch will work. I use this https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=AIR97002Z because it is easier to wire up, with the extra charge wires it has and does not require as much thinking as a regular switch. Note it is big and bulky. You can use a switch like this https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=NOV5600 they just take a little more time and thinking to wire in. Both are real easy though.

So basically, just run the thing, you don't need a receiver pack. LOL

If you ran 4-cell brushless with a GTB and are switching to single cell, the only thing you need to do is put a connector on your speed control for the battery (if you didn't have one with 4-cell). No need to change settings on speed control or run a receiver pack.

Tommy,
I just got the car and going to race some pan cars this season because the track is a half hour from the house compared to the 2 dirt tracks that are an hour plus away. I never ran 4 cell and jumping into this. I didn't know that I could run the car w/o a receiver pack. Would I be concerned with run time? I wouldn't think so being the 4000 mAh. As soon as I get done typing this reply, I will check out the links you posted. I really do appriciate the help you guys have given me so far. I keep telling myself that electric is better than nitro, even with this problem...lol. I'd think I could figure this out as long as I have been in this fun sport.:tongue:. Thanks again!

Heath

I have one of those big bulky switches! I have one from one of my gas cars/trucks that I don't have anymore. I also have a switch I cut off of an old LRP speed control that was burnt up, if I could make it work...Thanks again.

I have one of those big bulky switches! I have one from one of my gas cars/trucks that I don't have anymore. I also have a switch I cut off of an old LRP speed control that was burnt up, if I could make it work...Thanks again.that switch off the old lrp works great just splice it in one or your wires going to the reciever i also put a plug in before the switch that i could plug a charger cord into and i never have to unplug the reciever.

I'm personally using a Novak BEC with a small 2s Generic lipo. Works like a charm and the larger receiver pack gives me a bit more weight where I want it.

Have a little field lipo charger that is just plug and play. I recharge the receiver pack every time I recharge the 1s

Wouldnt this simple item solve the issues with the Losi lipo rec pack??????

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSB9608

Ok from someone that actually knows. Do you have to run a receiver pack that is 6v or under or can you run a 7.4v pack with one cell? Thanks

spashrc,

I use a 7.4v rx pack in 1 cell and it works fine with my equipment (9650 servo/futaba faast receiver/lrp esc). I have seen several racers with different equipment from mine use a 7.4v rx pack and they have not had any issues.

spashrc,

I use a 7.4v rx pack in 1 cell and it works fine with my equipment (9650 servo/futaba faast receiver/lrp esc). I have seen several racers with different equipment from mine use a 7.4v rx pack and they have not had any issues.

Thanks Tommygun

I tried to run one of the original LRP Sphere ESCs this weekend with 1C LiPo -- the Sphere would shut down randomly and then start going again -- even when the LiPo pack was fully charged.

I used this same 1C pack and receiver with an older GTB (without the built-in LiPo cut-off) and did not have any issues -- it ran fine with no voltage booster or receiver pack.

Would the older Sphere work if a voltage booster/receiver pack were used with it ? I know it has some sort of LiPo cut-off mode in it and I was wondering if that was the prob ?

I'm using a Futaba R113iP PCM receiver, Futaba 9550 digital servo.

Thx.

I tried to run one of the original LRP Sphere ESCs this weekend with 1C LiPo -- the Sphere would shut down randomly and then start going again -- even when the LiPo pack was fully charged.

I used this same 1C pack and receiver with an older GTB (without the built-in LiPo cut-off) and did not have any issues -- it ran fine with no voltage booster or receiver pack.

Would the older Sphere work if a voltage booster/receiver pack were used with it ? I know it has some sort of LiPo cut-off mode in it and I was wondering if that was the prob ?

I'm using a Futaba R113iP PCM receiver, Futaba 9550 digital servo.

Thx.

Thats the exact electronics package I,m running in 1c except I added a 7.2v nimh receiver pack. When running 1c with the LRP you need to make sure it's NOT in lipo cut-off mode! The lipo cut-off mode in the older LRPs was for 2c lipo and is 6.0 volts which the 1c doesent have even at full charge. Just put it in 4-cell mode and it will work fine.

PS I,ve found mode 6 with 0 drag brake works well and keeps motor temps down.

Thats the exact electronics package I,m running in 1c except I added a 7.2v nimh receiver pack. When running 1c with the LRP you need to make sure it's NOT in lipo cut-off mode! The lipo cut-off mode in the older LRPs was for 2c lipo and is 6.0 volts which the 1c doesent have even at full charge. Just put it in 4-cell mode and it will work fine.

PS I,ve found mode 6 with 0 drag brake works well and keeps motor temps down.


OK -- so if it works by putting it in 4-cell mode, then why did you add the 7.2 v receiver pack ? Just trying to understand.

Thx.

The receiver pack only powers the receiver and steering servo in my set up, the wire to the ESC is disconnected. I found without the receiver pack my steering servo was inconsistently centering and lost speed towards the end of a run. I just did'nt like the feel and my car needed 3.5 oz to make weight anyway. I charge it the night before i race and dont touch it on raceday.

The receiver pack only powers the receiver and steering servo in my set up, the wire to the ESC is disconnected. I found without the receiver pack my steering servo was inconsistently centering and lost speed towards the end of a run. I just did'nt like the feel and my car needed 3.5 oz to make weight anyway. I charge it the night before i race and dont touch it on raceday.

Ok. thx.

For the extra 0.4 oz, I think I'll just plug in one of the Micro-T packs -- unless anybody knows of problems with that since post #8 ?? Sounds like it's plug-and-play (no caps ?) .