i figured we needed a losi 1/10 spec slider class thread, will see what happens

here in indiana, a group of guy's from new castle race track. bought 1/10 sliders and are trying to race indoor carpet. they trying to follow the losi spec 1/10 scale slider rule's on the losi website. but, there has been some issue's that they have came up. one is, there must be a problem with the motor or speed control.
whats happening is during racing there shutting down (thermal), or just burning up the stock speed control.this is happening way to often. there had been guy's swapping out speed control's to a sport novak and the same thing happened again burnt speed control. this is not one person, several different racers with the same issue. take in mind, these are guy's that's been racing for some time. my question is, is there maybe something up with the motor's?
i have taken my motor out of my slider and putting it on my dyno, just see what's going on and compare it to a tamiya sport tuned motor (black can motor). i have had shut down problem myself. but, haven't burnt the speed control up yet.i'll get back with to let you know what i have found out.


in the mean time i would like to hear from the rest of you, that have the losi 1/10 scale slider. either issue's with. or, without. thanks!

Dunno if Butch talked to you about it but Chad caught his XRS on fire, Brad lost his XRS in the first round, and I thermaled the first two heats and got a hot spot of 165* on the heatsink of the stock speedo...I ran the 3rd round and main w/o the hood but with the helmet/rear pod and got 120* and didn't thermal...I ran practice w/o the hood or rear pod w/o problems...When these things 'thermal' it is just for a few seconds then you can continue, I thought thermaling would last 20-30secs or more...

I'd like to know whats going on...I've got my stock speedo along with Chads in to Horizon for replacement, and I suppose I'm just going to continue to run w/o the hood till we either figure out what the problem is, or just have to deal with it...I'm seriously thinking about mounting the speedo to the chassis on its side and cut the side panel so the heatsink can stick outside of the body...That should cool'er off...

no problems here ...

stock everything



i think it's in the motor boy's



I'm selling my slider and 3 3600 stick packs and 1 extra front and rear
firm tire

rtr $225.00

Dunno if Butch talked to you about it but Chad caught his XRS on fire, Brad lost his XRS in the first round, and I thermaled the first two heats and got a hot spot of 165* on the heatsink of the stock speedo...I ran the 3rd round and main w/o the hood but with the helmet/rear pod and got 120* and didn't thermal...I ran practice w/o the hood or rear pod w/o problems...When these things 'thermal' it is just for a few seconds then you can continue, I thought thermaling would last 20-30secs or more...

I'd like to know whats going on...I've got my stock speedo along with Chads in to Horizon for replacement, and I suppose I'm just going to continue to run w/o the hood till we either figure out what the problem is, or just have to deal with it...I'm seriously thinking about mounting the speedo to the chassis on its side and cut the side panel so the heatsink can stick outside of the body...That should cool'er off...

heard all about it, i'm testing some things. i'm looking at the motor. to me it sounds that it may not be the factory speedo, if the xrs's are laying down then. been pulling some number on the dyno with the stock losi motor and comparing to tamiya black can.

jonny, how hot were the motors when the speedo xrs caught fire? and did you happen to know how hot your motor was when it layed down?

i need to go to hobbytown and get another stock losi motor, my motor out of my slider, i blew it up on the turbo dyno not on purpose, what i found,i'm not impressed.

going to post dyno reading tomorrow evening, along with testing . ive been doing, i have been putting the tamiya black can motor through the same test.

alittle hint of what info i have so far:
stock losi motor seems to pass more heat to the speedo, there's more plastic around the inbell area were the brushes ride, less heat displacement, that maybe why the motor's aren't hot when the speedo burns up. that also, may explain randum thermaling at times. (border line burn up)
tamiya black can motor, end bell metal, alittle larger endbell bushing and brushes aren't supported in plastic.
if you look through the side of the losi motor you'll see a fan, that may be to keep the plastic parts of the motor from heating. in all, if you push heat away at one place, it may have go somewere else?....speedo? just thinking here! that's,what i'm coming up with.
well i'll get back with ya on the rest, may need to figure on a different motor, well see?

no problems here ...

stock everything



i think it's in the motor boy's



I'm selling my slider and 3 3600 stick packs and 1 extra front and rear
firm tire

rtr $225.00

did ya just come off a drunk spell.........?? or what!:woohoo: lol! lol!

Yep, my XRS Quit but, Chad's went up in smoke, melted itself to the RX. Quite a show. I'm puting my LRP Quantum in. Someting I know will hold up, but I do think it has somthing to do with the motor.

I think the XRS is rated down to 15 turns, the Losi motor may be a lower wind than that...

~Brad

Didn't get any motor temps...

I would be more willing to swap out the motors in these things than a speedo...Mainly cause its cheaper, and you'll be buying motors later anyways...

If you look on Horizon there are quite a few closed endbell motors for under 25$ I'd be willing to try any of them in the class...

Brushless sure does sound nice...BUT...Thats just more cost...Lipo would be good too, but then you've got lots of guys needing to buy chargers, send their charger off, or buy extra equip for their charger...I would be in the new charger boat myself...

Keep things CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP...And the simpler the solution the better...Someone with some spare cash outta just order an assortment of closed endbell motors and try them out...

I'm gonna see if I can find an AC adapter for my Fantom Dyno and run my motor on it to see what it comes up with...Be a baseline for the other motors we might wanna try...

selling my slider

$225 get's you
rtr slider
3 -3600 batts
extra front firm tire
extra rear firm tire

and no problem with motor or speedo

boy's you have to clean and oil the motors .........

I've felt my motor after every run and not hot at all

i could hold the motor for atleast 10 sec

boy's you have to clean and oil the motors .........

I've felt my motor after every run and not hot at all

i could hold the motor for atleast 10 sec

Ya think? My motor has yet to be "hot", I just haven't gotten temp readings...Now my speedo is a different story...

so whats the new news on these slidders
for us who still have all stock .......


are we going to have to buy new motor
new speedo
new reciever

go brushless

only asking because this class that was supposed to be box stock
has gotten pretty pricy

I say leave em alone for now...Buy a new speedo only if you have to. My motor doesn't get hot. I agree though, you have to clean & oil em.

~Brad

Bill at Losi, Ontario, CA says there will be free speedo replacements, exchange for all old ones, hopefully mid-January. Limited time offer.

Bill at Losi, Ontario, CA says there will be free speedo replacements, exchange for all old ones, hopefully mid-January. Limited time offer.

did they correct the problem? and, are they better ones?

Bill at Losi, Ontario, CA says there will be free speedo replacements, exchange for all old ones, hopefully mid-January. Limited time offer.

do ya know where to send the speedo ?

i have a speedo and reciever both went out at the same time.....

now if they would stand up for the motors in the mini slider and late models. they are plain junk and may last a whole heat if your lucky.

ok, well me a 3 of my friends have combined 5 of these things. I played around with a few things to try to get the esc to stop thermaling and have found a cure. Last night i ran 3 - 4200 packs and 3-4600 tq matched packs through my car with no thermaling at all. I changed ALL wiring on the esc to 14 GA, deans connectors or direct soldering, and ran an LRP fan on the stock esc. With stock motor and a 20 tooth pinion me and 3 others that were all having same thermaling issues had NONE the entire night.

Rob

ohh, btw, this is a 29 dollar cure, that includes the fan and wire needed, everything else was stock, and i must say, these things rip with a good battery in them.

now if they would stand up for the motors in the mini slider and late models. they are plain junk and may last a whole heat if your lucky.

Funny we have been running these cars since last year 15-25 per race day with 1 motor failure. We run them box stock. carpet is 36X85 It is pretty much pin it and steer it for the late models.

I'm new here, been racing for a long time, but just got into sliders. From the very start my ESC would thermal after about 12 -14 laps on a small 96' dirt oval. Tried to cut the hood scoop, the helmet visor, under the helmet, then eventually cut the whole driver compartment out - no deal! Then replaced wiring on the ESC to 12g soldered directly to the motor, and added deans ultra plug to my 3600 batteries - no deal! Next step was a small ESC fan on the cooling fins - no deal! My LHS owner said to just swap to one of my spare ESC's until Losi could get me a new one, installed a GTX, and the problem is gone. I agree that the motors are part of the problem, but with a quality ESC, that shouldn't matter. I hope the updated replacement ESC's cure the problem. I think it is a hit, or mis with the stoch ESC's. Everyone that I know who owns a slider has had problems, but the fix could be as simple as cutting the helmet visor out, or installing a small $8 fan, all the way to impossable to fix, as mine was.

Any new 1/10th scale slider tricks out there? We started a class in Indy and are haveing the same ESC probs.

Any new 1/10th scale slider tricks out there? We started a class in Indy and are haveing the same ESC probs. it sounds like losi is going to recall those speedos and replace them hopefully with something better. there was an earlier post on here about the problem. check post #12 there's info there.

I seen a Horizon press release that Losi released a heavy duty speed control for the sliders. I wonder if this is the replacement they will be sending??

The part number for the ESC is LOSB9521 and an alum idler gear for the tranny is LOSB3548. These 2 parts should address about 97% of the complaints about the 1/10 slider. These parts will be available soon, like this month.

anybody know what 1/10 scale slider weigh, with wing and without battery? just curious...

The part number for the ESC is LOSB9521 and an alum idler gear for the tranny is LOSB3548. These 2 parts should address about 97% of the complaints about the 1/10 slider. These parts will be available soon, like this month.

Try like today...I ordered some aluminum idler gears direct from Horizon as soon as I saw this post this afternoon. That will eliminate the need for the expensive Dynotech conversion that requires you to buy a slipper eliminator, run a b4 ball diff, and run busings instead of bearings on the diff, because there is not a bearing size availible for the diff case O.D./outdrive I.D.:thumbsup:

As far as what a slider weighs hacksaw I dont have a clue. Why dont ya scale it and let us know??

With this new speed control will you be able to run a 2-cell lipo?

Try like today...I ordered some aluminum idler gears direct from Horizon as soon as I saw this post this afternoon. That will eliminate the need for the expensive Dynotech conversion that requires you to buy a slipper eliminator, run a b4 ball diff, and run busings instead of bearings on the diff, because there is not a bearing size availible for the diff case O.D./outdrive I.D.:thumbsup:

As far as what a slider weighs hacksaw I dont have a clue. Why dont ya scale it and let us know??

what is the part number for aluminum idler gears?

The part number for the ESC is LOSB9521 and an alum idler gear for the tranny is LOSB3548. These 2 parts should address about 97% of the complaints about the 1/10 slider. These parts will be available soon, like this month.

4 posts back

With this new speed control will you be able to run a 2-cell lipo?
LOSB9521
Features



High power FET (Field-Effect Transistor) control with proportional forward and reverse.
High frequency design delivers smooth speed transition.
Push-button programming makes setup a breeze.
Designed to operate with stock motors (12 turns or higher).
Thermal Overload Protection prevents damage due to overcurrent
Pre-wired with Tamiya battery plug and bullet-style motor connectors.
Compatible with 4-cell 4.8V to 6-cell 7.2V Ni-MH battery packs
ESC is compatible with 1/10 Slider™ (LOSB0290), 1/10 HIGHroller™ (LOSB0103), and 1/10 Desert Truck (LOSB0102)
NOTE: Do NOT use with LiPo batteries:cry:

1/10 slider new esc--LOSB9521, aluminum idler gear---LOSB3548

I had a discussion with our Horizon Customer Service and Tech Support representative last night. He is not aware of any significantly improved ESC available from Losi. They are willing to replace, on an exchange basis, burnt up speedo's but he believes the LOSB9521 to have exactly the same spec's as what comes in the box with the Slider, Desert Truck, etc. That part number is different than what was originally listed for the Slider but he is not aware of any significant differences.

Based on the posts in this forum, I've asked him to check directly with Losi. He knows Bill at Losi (referred to in an earlier post) and I asked him to speak directly with him. If they replace speedo's with new ones with the same limitations as the originals, they're going to have a lot of disappointed racers (to put it mildly).

Chuck
Fastlane Raceway

Anybody have a decent starting point for carpet? I threw a set of foams on mine and ran it a few laps after a race for the first time(all stock but ride height is 1/4") and it just wanted to spin. I took alot of steering out of it and it got better(but you use every inch of the track),Think it may need some weight up front,(seems to lift and grab when you dont want to). Just wondering how drastic guys are changing them to get them decent. Its for dirt oval but until the weather changes I cant just leave it on the shelf

What foam tires are you finding fit the slider?

BSR truck rears and fronts but I used the axles of a xxxt for the front. The fronts are too big, I cut them in half but the offset is goofy. The rears are what you need but maybe buggy foams up front? not sure on that one.

Anybody have a decent starting point for carpet? I threw a set of foams on mine and ran it a few laps after a race for the first time(all stock but ride height is 1/4") and it just wanted to spin. I took alot of steering out of it and it got better(but you use every inch of the track),Think it may need some weight up front,(seems to lift and grab when you dont want to). Just wondering how drastic guys are changing them to get them decent. Its for dirt oval but until the weather changes I cant just leave it on the shelf

We run them on our carpet track with stock motors and Losi rubber tires (we allow either compound Losi sells for the car for front or rear). Most of us don't use any tire sauce. We replace the stock springs with Losi TC springs (1 inch and 1.15 inch lengths) to lower the ride height down to near TC level (about 5 mm in frt and 6 mm in rr). Softer springs on the left, stiffer springs on the right. Exact choice depends on the racer. You could start with 17.5 lb (Dark green) springs on the left and something like 20 - 25 lb on the right (black and purple). Some guys prefer the car loose and run the heavier spring on the RR some like them tight and run the heavier spring in the RF. We have no problem getting enough traction and our carpet isn't known for high traction levels. Our main problem is traction roll if you lift at the wrong time or jerk the wheel a little too much. Front end is definitely light and it helps to have the car pointed where you want it to go before you get back on the throttle.

On our track you can run a 21.5 / Lipo pan car flat out lap after lap. The Sliders are slower but you have to actually drive them. Lift at the appropriate time, back on the throttle at the appropriate time. That's what most of our guys enjoy about them.

here in indy we follow losi rule's pretty much for indoor carpet racing. other than speedo's burning up. guy's are using novak xrs speedo as replacement as of now. or, until losi get's it figured out.

Hacksaw I thought you where going to race last night.

Hacksaw I thought you where going to race last night.

had to work over. hard to pass up...working over $$.they like asking me all the time the last minute. getting hard to plan what i want to do. was wanting to make it to slots to run my race ready slider. the one i ran at slots last sunday, i took it apart. now is back up parts. maybe, i can run up front with the rest of them next race. have, been tweeking slider not to traction roll with on power through turns. i think i'm real close, figured out how to adjust camber gain + or - to may it work through the turns. did small mod. to get what, i wanted. may post pictures.

We received the updated (different) esc and alum idler gears today from Losi. Already installed one, but haven't had it on the track, yet. Anxious to see if it is a fix.

Ran several packs this afternoon in a slider that had previously thermaled quite easily. So far, all good--no problems. Also installed the losi alum idler gear. A little noisy the first few laps, but quieted down as it wore in a little.

Ran several packs this afternoon in a slider that had previously thermaled quite easily. So far, all good--no problems. Also installed the losi alum idler gear. A little noisy the first few laps, but quieted down as it wore in a little.

thanks! for info, clodman. i'll have to get a set of idler's as well! :thumbsup:

I got my idler gears today from Horizon. They look nice & beefy.:thumbsup:

I got my idler gears today from Horizon. They look nice & beefy.:thumbsup:

what are they made out of? brad

what are they made out of? brad

Part Number

Part Number

here is part# alum idler gear for the tranny is LOSB3548.

I've run the new ESC for one full race night so far... It seems very solid. The local class is 19t, so I ran a Money motor - two heats with EnerG4600's, then two heats with 2S LiPo... 5 minutes of fast racing action, NO themals, No problems of any kind! The performance is surprisingly good too... I have the current 19t Sprint car record, set with this same car and motor combo, but using a Novak GTX ESC (50/5:02) -- Saturday night with the new LOSI ESC I ran 49/5:00 under slightly slicker track conditions...

Nice!

The new idler gear is nice too -- as noted, a little noisy perhaps, but seems like it should hold up well.

Could it be that a solid axle setup is fine for dirt (low traction) where the outside wheel can spin, but running on carpet puts a huge strain on the motor with that outside wheel trying too hard to hook up?

Well gentlemen. I run one with a 5700 in it now. I got the replacement esc, but it is on the shelf. It is the same as a dynamite 15t tazer. The original is of course the 12t tazer. The batch numbers and all match. I burnt up a 12t tazer with a lipo, but the 15t does well with a 19t or a 27t and a lipo. The new idler gear is holding well to my sidewinder. Our rules are open mod you can also get the cobra adapter to run 1/10 scale pan car tires in rear and put normal fronts on the front. Or you could jus put on the expensive custom works tires. At any rate These are good cars, but hard to be box stock.:dude:

i have been doing some testing with brushless and lipo battery's in the 1/10 scale slider at our local track. a group of indoor slider racer's and i were trying to decide what best lipo and brushless combo would best match a box stock slider. this is what he found out that best match's up. ran a novak havok brushless system with the system we tried 21.5,17.5, 13.5 and 10.5
battery's were 3400 lipo and 2400 lipo
we found the best match was the 13.5 with 2400 lipo battery best matchs up to the box stock slider.the box slider we put the 2400 lipo in and the other slider we put a 13.5 2400 lipo in as well. they ran very simliar. 2400 lipo was used due to cost of battery's. 1 2400 lipo compared to 3 or 4, 6 cell 3600 batter packs. 2400 lipo cost around $35.00 bucks. 1 6cell stick averages about $25.00 to $32.00 a pack and ya have to have more than 1.
the test showed that it was fast but not too insane. the car wheelly'd off the turn just like the real cars. i carried the front wheels until they came down on there own before the next turn. this was done on an indoor carpet track at new castle. here locally, the group of slider racers are swaying to starting a class that runs novak havok 13.5 motor with 2400 orion lipo battery and if someone whats to run a box slider they can run a 2400 lipo battery as well. there had been talk about a gear rule as well too.

Ran some different combos last night and I think the guys at Indy Slots have agreed on thier rules. Either a stock Losi or Novak 13.5 SS motor are your two motor options and either 3600 6cell or Orion 2400 lipo are your two battery options. Still have 1/2" ride hieght rule and no wings. Any speed control can be used but I think alot of the guys are going with the Havok kit with motor from Novak for around $150. The Lipo's and 3600 were real close. We found the 3600 handled better with the extra wieght. The orion 2400 is going for around $35-40. The 13.5 motors were deffinatley faster, but had to be turned down to handle. I think we are going to start these rules Next Tuesday night. Not sure if anyone wants to race Sunday with Daytona going on but rules will start Tuesday. Looking for feedback or any other ideas from the New Castle guys. Hope you guys come down and race with us some.