I picked up some 2.5 CF that ended up being 2.65 to make a custon lipo chassie.Chassie is a clabration of 2 chassies .Still in the rough stage but comming togeather.

Jake

Here is a pic please keep in mind it is hand cut and needs alot of cleaning up and strightning of the cut outs.I am not sure if I want to make cut outs on the tray part.Since I am not going to reproduce it I can tell you it is based on 10in wheel base RIP 08 taker but a KSG gen1 solid base chassie with KSG alum but the RIP offset not the wider KSG offset.And has a 59 mm wide pod.Like I said go easy on me I know it needs a ton of clean up.It is only drilled for offset offset.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/chassie1.jpg

Jake

Nice job! It’s good to see that there are still people doing things like this.

When I first started racing there was a guy that built all of his stuff and he was “the man” to beat. He created some really nice stuff in his shop and he unknowingly influenced the way that I enjoy this hobby…….by building stuff. I get as much enjoyment out of building something as I do racing it but I’m afraid that it’s a dying “art”. People don’t get into the hobby from that standpoint anymore. It’s all about what you can buy over the counter. I think they are missing a lot.

what tool did you hand cut it out with?

Thanks I am with you I just like making stuff.I have another sheet to make another one it will have diffrent cut outs and mabey front adjusters.

Here is a pic of the top pod plate like I said its work in progress.Even with the small pod I can get the motor in and out with out taking the pod apart.

I am going for function at this point if its worth anything I will refine it:p.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/pod1.jpg

Jake

Dremel with a cut off wheel it is stright from the dremel to what you see that is why its a bit rough lost of sanding ahead.:drunk:

Jake

i don't know if it's just me still in shock of the frankenstein ride of johns or not..

but that is a awesome looking one off ride....can you do me a favor and post a pic of this on the rctech forumn for john to see! lol

very very slick looking car nice job!

Wow thanks KAT here is a pic of the final cut out on the tray really wanted to leave it solid for weight but seamed to need more flex still might need more?Like I said not perfect by any means but looking a bit better.
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/chas2.jpg

Jake

Dremel with a cut off wheel it is stright from the dremel to what you see that is why its a bit rough lost of sanding ahead.:drunk:

Jake
thats what I use, I use patterens on constuction paper then transfer over to the carbon fiber and cut, the small cuts and corners I know are pretty hard.. Good job on the work tho!!

here is a lipo tray and new rear pod design that i made for the L4, I used this car for the velodrome here in indy http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=66005&d=1221437807

Here is a pic please keep in mind it is hand cut and needs alot of cleaning up and strightning of the cut outs.I am not sure if I want to make cut outs on the tray part.Since I am not going to reproduce it I can tell you it is based on 10in wheel base RIP 08 taker but a KSG gen1 solid base chassie with KSG alum but the RIP offset not the wider KSG offset.And has a 59 mm wide pod.Like I said go easy on me I know it needs a ton of clean up.It is only drilled for offset offset.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/chassie1.jpg

Jake

I think you did a great job to "free hand" the cuts, nice design.:thumbsup:

car looks very nice great job!

Thanks guys I know the cars it is based off of work great but not sure what this graf will bring.Pic of the car more togeather.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/chas3.jpg

Jake

Very nice work. Love the top pod plate

That's a great first attempt! looks like a real flexible bl/lipo car, I hope you are taking great care when you're cutting graphite with a wheel, you should have a respirator and a full face shield and do this in an open space as that dust is verry bad for your lungs/eyes. good luck in the future. :dude:

Looks awsome Jake, if you wanted to make it out of the same stuff I use shoot me a PM and I'll see if I can't hook you up with some.

thanks agine guys.That is the plan Jeff I am going to give it a run this week to see whats what.

Jake

Well its ready to roll.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/cus2.jpg

Jake

Side pic.http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/cus3.jpg

Jake

Hey anyway I can get one of them??

Need a lipo car..

Rip makes a 6 cell narrow solid will fit lipo great,Leading Edge makes a lipo chassie,KSG Gen3 is set up for lipo.And Wicked Motorsports 6 cell gen2 conversion fits lipo well.

The chassie is not for sale at this time.

If you like the pod I would contact Jeff I am sure he could hook you up with a 59 mm,rear stear,open top pod.After I run the chassie this week I am sending if off to him to make a CNC copie of it for me.

Jake

:woohoo:great job jake! i am one with you on the building is as much fun as the racing. hey, check out my plexichassis tc4 late model in this section of the forum. oh yeah where did you get the carbon fiber? how big was the sheet? how much did it set ya back? if you will? thanx,keith:thumbsup:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=236377
here is the link to my thread,keith

DAgrafite 9X12 45 bucks but it was sold as 2.5mm and ended up being 2.65 or so thick..

Jake

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=236377
here is the link to my thread,keith

I like it.

Some guys I race with have some really cool LTO Xray chassies one is purple grafite one is gold grafite.

Jake

thats really kewl man. i like doing my own thang when i can. thanx for the comp.:)

The car looks very nice! I do have a question, how much flex should a bl lipo car have for a small flat track?

From what we can see in the pictures, that's a heck of a job considering it was by hand. It must have taken you many hours of dremmel time. Looks really nice. Let us know how it performs.

The chassie took mabey 1/2 hour to make.Flex is a good thing untill you go to far then you have a slopy chassie.

I just really wanted a chassie that was some what semertical as far as cut outs and no cell slots a 10 in wheel base skinny pod that I could get the motor out of as well as rear stear and like the KSG style pod as it pivets on the center hole rather than pushing out one side and has the side shock in line with each outher at least 6 center shock holes as I like to run my center shock as far forward as I can a .25 in offset.a Narrow front end(standard KSG 3. in) the right front is moven in about 1mm or like running a 1 locator inward fits the KSG hard ware as I feel its about the best alum low cg and a big enough pod to put a 100 or so spur on.

If you stack several chassies on each other lots of the holes line up what is old is new agine.

You guys have a gen 1 solid drill offset holes 1/4 over and holes for a 10 in wheel base run it offset offset with a ORC Super Soft and see how much better you like it.Its a thick chassie so cut the top front brace out of the chassie cut a box turned on edge behind the center post cut the right cut outs bigger cell slots longer.:thumbsup:

Jake

1/2 hour? OK Jake, maybe you should be called "Grand Master Dremmel Sensei". :)

LOL far from it I did not mean it like that ,the cutting just went really fast.Sanding it was a hand cramper.

Jake

Needs abit more testing.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/bdy.jpg

Jake

JDW-nice work. It cleaned up really well.

Custom 3-link, Dual Dynamic A-arm 200 mm car

So the thread title was custom chassies. Here is my "sidewinder". It uses a 3 link rear suspension with beefy links much like trans am race cars. The pod is centered with a Panhard bar like Nascar race cars. Each rear wheel has a separate rear mounted vertical shock. The front end is damped so the car can run at high speed without flying off the track. It does quite well at lower speeds. With the same driver it seems to be at least a lap faster than a typical oval car on flat asphalt. katf1sh mentioned it above. He is just jealous that it is faster than his car. He even admits so on another thread here.

Katfish, Now if you ever have an original thought I would like to see a picture of the prototype.

Intresting car man.Way to think out side the box.

I ran my car tonight and I for sure need more time with it
I can make it fast but not consistent as of tonight I might go ahead and have Jeff cnc one for me with a few changes.

Jake

hey john
do u put that in a jig to make sure it all lined up after good hit. and lower or riser the panhard bar. like car and the able to think out of the box. because every rc pan car are just alike, it works but no ones try a different way go fast.
good job John PS i do like front end.

hey john
do u put that in a jig to make sure it all lined up after good hit. and lower or riser the panhard bar. like car and the able to think out of the box. because every rc pan car are just alike, it works but no ones try a different way go fast.
good job John PS i do like front end.


Thanks guys. I do align the car on the setup board once in a long time. The adjustable lower links allow left or right steer. They are large for ruggedness but are hollow aluminum so they are very light. Because of the large size the rod ends don't telescope in a crash. They rarely need to be realigned. Only when I want to change the setup. Other multilink pan cars have been built but did not stay in good alignment due to using #4-40TPI links to join the two heavy parts of the car. These rod ends are about #8 x 32 TPI in size but are on metric aluminum threads.

The panhard bar does adjust up or down but there is little effect on handling. I dicuss this in my thread (http://www.rctech.net/forum/5105353-post394.html).

John

Holy LR weight BATMAN!

The panhard bar does adjust up or down but there is little effect on handling.
John


It doesn't affect how the car rolls or position of the rear end? With any fullsize car it is a good tuning aid.

Rich (katf1sh) mentioned it above. He is just jealous that it is faster than his car. He even admits so on another thread here.

Rich Now if you ever have an original thought I would like to see a picture of the prototype.

John, please get your facts straight,my screenname is cneyedog.........NOT Katfish.



JDW, thats a very cool car to do with the dremel. Hope it runs well for you.


Rich

John, please get your facts straight,my screenname is cneyedog.........NOT Katfish.



JDW, thats a very cool car to do with the dremel. Hope it runs well for you.


Rich

I ran it last week and buy my own stipid mistake left the servo loose to the servo mounts and fought the front end all nite like Corkey never found the problem till the nex morning so I am gona run it agine this week to see whats what with it.And thank you.

Jake

Jake -- it always the little things huh?

Keep us informed about your progress and good luck with it!

John, please get your facts straight,my screenname is cneyedog.........NOT Katfish.



JDW, thats a very cool car to do with the dremel. Hope it runs well for you.


Rich
Yeah rich big big difference huh plus that guy(katfish) farts bad

Jake -- it always the little things huh?

Keep us informed about your progress and good luck with it!


I have a change that will be a option on the pod offset if you so desire just need to make a new top plate to show you guys on here and it should clear up what I was talking about on another thread.


Jake

I allso wanted to add narrow pods have been around for a while I had Jeff make this pod months back befor that I ran a RIP with OZZYS narrow pod and befor that I ran a RIP with a 1/12 pod.:thumbsup:

Jake

Ok I wipped out another top plate to show the Offset offset offset.

Everything on this car is spaced 1/4 inch or .25 of an inch so you know where to put everything back to a standard pos.IE pod has 1/4 in offset holes/chassie has 1/4 offset holes and the spacer on the axle is a KSG 1/4 spacer.

t plate on chassie is in the offset holes.

Tplate is standard ORC SS.

pod plate is in the offset pos the tplate.

thus is why you need to put the 1/4 in axle spacer back on the right side to put the long hub back where it belongs.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/3off.jpg

Jake

Inbetwine the alum pod standoffs is 2.13 inches and a brushless motor is 2.0 inches so as you can tell it is very narrow but the length is taken off the left side.

Jake

This is a standard Offset offset pod.

tplate is in the offset chassie holes

pod is in the center pod plate holes.

Standatrd ORC SS Tplate or semitrical


http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/2_offset.jpg

Jake

With the ORC SS or any semritical t plate on this car you could run.

center center

center offset

offset offset

offset offset offset.

And all the center lines will line up.

And anyone who has a RIP car with their narrow pod could cut the esc pad and do the same I think his is 60mm cant rember.

Jake

cneyedog-My sincerest apology for associating your first name with Katfish.
Katfish does have several screen names so the facts are not as clear as one would hope. One screenname that he polutes RCtech with is "mother focer". He probably has others.

Again my sicerest apology as you and I have had nothing but pleasant exchanges by private message.

Corrections made.

Tweaked T3- The height of the Panhard bar does not seem to affect the oversteer understeer balance of the car. It does affect the way that the chassis rolls a bit, but does not seem to translate to a handling change like on a big car which has a light solid axle, Panhard bar, and relatively heavy frame/body. I still have the heavy motor attached to the axle.

Or how about this pic showing the spur out and the extreme offset.

http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/510/medium/go.jpg


Jake