I have some brand new Xtraction cars that i wanna build up for racing this Sat. But the problem is that i cant buy anything until race day so its kinda limited on what i can do. The only things i plan on buying on Sat. is tires, and brushes. Ill put those in at the track, and i wanna try to put in a Mean Green Motor, but i never done that so idk how long that takes.

So whats some tuning tips i can do to the cars with using basically stock parts?

I wanna do 1 car from what you guys tell. Another car from what you guys tell me then put tires, and brushes in at the track. And another car from what you guys tell plus tires, brushes, and Mean Green Motor at the track.

Its kinda like a comparison what a bascially stock Xtraction with tuning tips vs. one with brushes/tires/tunning tricks vs. a complete race car built on raceday.

Sorry if this kinda sounds confusing.

Thanks
SBS Motorsports

Anybody???

X-Tractions respond well to silicon rear tires. Replacing the front tires with o-rings is helpful too. They're truer and will lower the car slightly.

You'll get different opinions on this, but I strongly prefer the narrow, non-stepped pick-up shoes. They're less bouncy and the front of the car runs a bit closer to the track. Work on reducing the friction in the drive train if you can. Sometimes you get an idler gear that's a little bigger than most and that can bind the gears a bit. If you have several chassis. Try swapping idlers.

Get the heavy grease out of the gears that comes with them from the factory and use something much lighter -- but don't get it on the comm or brushes. Be sure to get a little oil on the end of the shaft that goes into the bottom of the chassis.

In some cases, the drive train is so tight from misalignment that a chassis run better if the front tabs of the gear plate are not secured in the chassis. It seems to free things up a bit.

If it's a tricky road course, race with the pin side down instead of the rudder to make it easier for race marshalls to get your car reslotted. If it's a bigger, faster track, run with the rudder down to lower the center of gravity... LOL! Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Thanks TK Solver!!! Thats what iam looking for

As for the front tires. Are you talking about the O-Ring tires that come with the Tuner body styles? Or are you talking about Fray type tires?

When swapping idler gears, what should i be looking at? Smaller or bigger? Also, is there a way to get em off without using a Gear Puller?

What type of lubricant should i use for the drivetrain? Like WD-40? Or something differnt???

Hey Blake,

How about a test and tune on Thursday evening? I can help you setup the cars. You may not be able to put a mean green in your Xtractions, the arm has a step at the bottom that doesn't always mate with an Xtraction chassis.

Let me know...
Gary
AKA LeeRoy98
www.marioncountyraceway.com

Regarding o-rings -- I'm talking about the little o-rings you can get at a hardware store for 19 cents each. You can get them in bulk much cheaper. They "look" similar to the early X-Traction front tires but the quality is better and the profile is shorter.

Regarding idler gears -- you usually can't tell by looking at them as the differences are so small. The idler gear comes off easily when you remove the gear plate clamp.

Slot car racing oils are available. Mobil 1 synthetic is great but cheap household 3-in-one oil is also fine. The key is not to use too much or it will find its way onto the motor brushes and foul things up. Finding a pinpoint applicator is nice. You mentioned WD-40. That might work for awhile but it's really not intended to stick to parts as a lubricant. There are several threads on these forums which discuss the qualities and merits of WD-40 and the conclusion has always been that's it's good as a cleaner and conditioner but not a very good lubricant.

X-Tractions require practice. A good, well-practiced driver can often beat an average driver with a superior car. Coasting is a bigger factor with X-Tractions than with higher downforce (magnet) cars. You need to get to know how well your car coasts when you let up. That will determine how long you can stay on the throttle down the straights and how fast you get through the corners. Most tracks don't allow you to accelerate an X-Traction in the middle a turn, so your speed through the turn is more about how much you can carry into the turn.

You're going to have a lot of fun.

I like the wide x/traction pick up shoes, they seem to go over the joints in the turns better. I adjust the shoes and restrict them by folding the tops of the hanger windows over . if it is a short to med track use the super 2 crown gear if it is allowed. get the car moving better but will wind out on a long track. I use a dremel on the gears to loosen them up. I dont like to use 3 in 1 oil its too thin in my opinion. a good straight 30 w oil is good, i want to try mixing in some stp oil treatment to see if it helps keep the oil, on the gears or if it is still runny.

I recently went through four of these chassis and without buying anything but silicones for the rear and o-rings for the front, two of them turned out pretty good, one was fair, and one is being used as a chassis in the collection.
I started by stripping the chassis and going through all the parts, looking for the straightest axles, truest wheels, and most concentric gears. Make sure the armature doesn't bind in the chassis and top plate assembly. I've found a few that I had to press the bottom spacer a little farther onto the shaft to even get it to spin in the chassis. Try to find the armature with the flattest commutator plate. You can usually spot it by the wear pattern from the brushes.
Another important part is the crown gear on the rear axle. Some of these were very wobbly. Be sure to find the best one and use some spacers to get a smooth mesh.
Just a couple of things I've found using just the basic chassis.
If you do some searching, I'm sure there are more tuning tips on other threads here.

Haven't been in here for a bit and noticed this request. Here's a pas thread with some tune-up tips for your XT's:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=194071&highlight=tuning

For those with Thunderjets, these tips will work, despite the subtle differences between XT's and TO's

Also, for XT tires......Wipe the rear tires with vaseline and let them sit for a day. Then clean off the tires in dish detergent. This will give the tires better grip.

Fascinating suggestion about the Vaseline... should I try that with my 1:1 Mustang GT tires too? How did you discover that? Does rubber absorb vaseline? Why do you think it works? Any possible side effects? If we try that with the crummy Tyco Goodyears do you think we'd end up with chocolate pudding?

TK, Armorall does the same as the Vaseline, weird huh?

I saw just a bit ago is there is an arm balancer and there was a set of instructions on how to complete the balancing of said arm. I forget what link it was on. See if I can find it. I 'think' it was for t-jets but the same principle' apply here. Many of the t-jet methods of doing things will transfer over no problem. That would also make the car run REAL smooth. You have a completely balanced arm spinning in the middle of the car vs. someone who doesn't have a balanced arm car you should be able to beat them hands down.

Another thing as well, and I said this in the post quoted by dlw is the lapping of gears. I took a dremel turned it to the lowest setting and ran my gears through that with some crest. Takes a couple minutes and your car will most likely be quieter and smoother. As I said in that post all of these little smidges add up to one great big smudge. Don't discount the little things.

Cheers,
Xence

instead of vaseline try Pam, or any generic cooking spray. i got some at the $ store.

take the tires and a zip lock baggy. put tires in baggy. spray Pam liberally.

seal baggy and put in a sunny place. let sit for a day or more. the tires will be slightly sticky, and will really grip the track .

in testing, i found that the stock tires treated this way actually outperformed slip on silicones on my track. once the pam trick wore off (weeks of racing) the silicones were better.

God bless you all.thanks for all the info.

All good tips, but this thread is missing the most important one:

Make sure you know the rules before doing anything to the car. :thumbsup:

The best car in the world does no good if it ain't legal. :freak:

Good point, Swamper. The thread I posted is based on box stock XT/MT's. The tire 'trick' is done using stock XT tires. XT tires are a rubber silicone mix (which should be used to make the Thunderjet tires), and vaseline/Pam/Armour-All seems to improve their performance.

This treating of tires should work with Tyco's. It does with LL's. But don't use on AW/JL Thunderjet tires. It'll turn them to stone :freak:.