I have a 4x8 4 lane Tomy track. I am new so I have not upgraded to custom/regualted power. I have 4 terminal tracks with a power pack on each, for now. 1 lane was losing significant power, so I figured there was a bad section. I started with a visual inspection at the point where the cars would slow down and die. On the complete opposite end of the track I heard a sizzle sound and saw a connector turn red (burn?). Of course my issue was resolved. My questions are:
Why does this happen?
Is there any maintenance that I should perform to avoid this?
Was this actually about to flame up?
Is this likely to be isolated to that section or is this a sign of a bigger issue?
Is this common, should I expect sections to go bad from time to time?
Thanks, I know you guys have the answers.
Gags

Wow Gags, I haven't seen that happen with years of racing on Tomy track. I know the potential of DC voltage and will explain. First, is your track secure to the table? If not, movement in the track by running cars can cause this condition.

Why does this happen?
The poor contact causes an arc from one contact to the other, same as an arc welder on a smaller scale. Other brand tracks can have this problem too, but other than damage, the actual cause is poor quality. It's no secret, this track is made in China.
Is there any maintenance that I should perform to avoid this?
Yes. Before laying the track, I bend the straight steel tabs in just a touch with a small screw driver. You can also use DiElectric grease to improve the connection.
Was this actually about to flame up?
Theoretically, it could. The track would have to melt first, and then get to a flash point. How long that coudl take depends on the intensity of the arc.
Is this likely to be isolated to that section or is this a sign of a bigger issue?
It is a bigger issue. I would make sure I have good connections all the way around the track. But, I've never heard of a connection so bad the rails turn red.
Is this common, should I expect sections to go bad from time to time?
Not if you make sure your connections are good.

Other than that, I would keep a fire extinguisher handy, and use green nomex for the infield grass. :)

Rich
www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars (http://www.myspace.com/northtexasslotcars) :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks for the info. Should I toss that section of track or just make an adjustment. I have not secured the track yet and we recently picked up the table and moved it across the room. I was also off for a few and the track saw some action. I am guessing that is how it became loose, I was digging the flow on that lane. Besides nailing the track in, what is the best way to secure it.

Besides nailing the track in, what is the best way to secure it.

I used adhesive silicone caulk and am happy with the results. A lot of my 15" straights had a bow in them that created a hump in the middle of the track section. I laid each section with caulk and placed a few books on top until the caulk set up and it flattened the humps out nicely. Hope this helps.

I don't want to step on any toes here. I have some small HO sets that I've had for eons and I normally regularly race 1/24th scale on a commercial track. But here is what I know since I'm also a Master Auto technician with specialty areas in auto electronics.

Dieletric grease is non-conductive. It's primary use is to keep corrosion down in high current areas of electron flow. It will not enhance current flow or contact and if used in excess amount, will actually inhibit current flow.

The best thing to do where your track goes together is to gently polish the contacts with 1000 grit sandpaper to make sure there is no corrosion on the mating surfaces then put them together. If you had some, then you could use a q-tip to put just a light surface coating of dielectric grease on the joint after they are put together. This would keep down the corrosion in the joint if you were leaving it together for awhile. Thats all the dielectric grease is use for in spark plug boots. To make them come apart later, and not weld themselves to the spark plug.

Anytime you have two or more contacts in a dc circuit, that circuit must be tight. Anything that is loose, or not secure will create a surface tension or bad connection, and bad connections in either DC current or AC current means heat. What you saw when the joint was getting red was the result of a bad connection, very much like when a light switch on your wall starts smoking because the screw has come loose. Heat =high resistance. High resistance=bad.

Best way to check the connection is to go from track joint to track joint and use a good multi-meter and check for voltage drop. The voltage should be within .1 of a volt from track joint to track joint, and if your meter is capable of reading less than .1 volt tolerance, a good joint will read even less than that.

Mike R

A good reason, for that to happen....is that the connection, is too loose and is hardley making cnnection and that causes a heat reaction, between the to contacxts and that's what make the track metal parts turn red and that can cause your track to melt and loose a piece of trak, due to the damage. the grease is a good thing, just like Mike Said. Also you can make sure, that your contact points have tight fitting.....that will stop that breakaway contact point. If you have any corrosion in the contact point and it's still a problem, you will just have to replace it. that cuts out the not having fun problem.

Thanks,
The guys here are always on the spot. I guess I will have to decide how I want to secure the track. I am guessing that I must of started the problem when I moved the table across the room.
Gags