think i might have a weak novak 13.5 and i need to know a for sure way to dyno or check its power and or what all specifics i need to know to make it make power for oval 4 cell application. Screws have been loosen and adjusted timing also has sintered rotor. Have tried it on two different speedos and two different radio systems to eliminate all those concerns. I'll i know is this most tracks i go to i'm 5 laps off the pace, and i hear well your car is most likely bound up. The guys that usually say this this there motor makes a loud whizzing sound going around the track. i can hear theres making power and mine is perfectly silent, also my motor just barely gets warm i have went way up in gear and way down virtually no differences. Besides i'm fairly certain if the car was bound up at least the motor would heat up. Also i'm pretty sure the car is not bound up when i run them down in the turn and on the straight away they blow by me. A good example is its like i'm runnin a 13.5 runnin with 10.5s I've won races and drove good handling race cars i'm pretty sure the car is not the issue unless i'm goin crazy. I don't know alot about brushless motors so if anyone could help me with this i would greatly appreciate it.

Swap it out with a friends 13.5 and see what happens.

very soon speedpassion and a few others will have one out..than we will be right back where we started with brushed motors...full circle

I had the similar problem for years and was so discouraged that I was ready to quit, no matter what class I ran the car was 5 laps off the pace, in stock/17.5 the best it would run was 50-51 laps. I had tried swapping electronics, rollout changes, bodies etc, letting another racer try motor or battery only to see them run a record pace.

I kept adjusting chassins feeling it was a pushy loose condition. Had Pat Simkins look at it and he said chassis was tight, changed dampening in shocks, used a Silva #7 (5-7) center spring, changed front camber to 1.5 neg, 1.0 pos LF, removed the washers(no preload on spring) shaved material off steering block too increase travel and increased tweak LR to 11 oz (10.5 to 11.4). First run in competition yielded a 53 lap pace run. Changed spur from 92 to 88 with rollout in the 3.71-3.74 area and was on 55 lap pace, with lap times in the 4.2 to 4.0 range.

Once I made these adjustment motor makes that high pitch whine and I don't get caught going into the turn like I use to. I never thought a chassis being off just a fraction could scrub so much speed. I sent back radios (3PJ, 3PK) 1024 receivers, ESC 2 Quantum 2 and each time they checked out fine. Rotors in brushless was checked and they weren't the best but within range of others.

Swap it out with a friends 13.5 and see what happens.


WhaleyII - Try this. maybe you could swap with someone you know is fast.

We've been running brushless here in Michigan for about 4 years and had [most have switched to 21.5/Lipo] a good size group of 13.5 drivers. The difference between them has not been motor.

We are selling our brushless motors, (10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5) dyno-tuned with the results included, along with rotor gauss measurement recorded.

Our Blueprinted Line Includes:

-Dyno Results Printout
-Rotor Strength (Gauss Measurement)

Ceramic Bearing Upgrade / Installation is also available for $20.

:thumbsup:

Todd Putnam
Putnam Propulsion
518-452-0422

Todd,
Nice to see you are able to go in that route.

Whose brushless motor do you use, (your own or another company) and do you tune a motor someone already owns.

I bought a 2nd 17.5 Novak (yellow ring) and swapped rotors but it doesn't run as consistant as the (older) black ring 17.5 no matter what rollout I try.

just remember, a dyno tested motor just is a reference point of how the motor is performing, its up to you how to on how to use it to your advantage.. B/L motors are pretty equal compared to there counter part brushed motors, as we know brushed motors varied greatly so a dyno was almost a must depending on how serious you were. In my opinion dyno a B/L motor is cool to see as I have done to see the performance but is really not need to be competitive in todays racing...

JP

Brushless motors are only fast when the cars are working properly. There motors are winding up because they are prolly holding speed more. Brushless requires your chassis tuning to go up 10 fold. There is alot of top level racers out there, that are still having problems getting back on pace since brushless came along. If you think your motor is bad send it back to novak.. Or you could borrow a motor from someone else for a run or two. If you run the same its the chassis..

there are several posts here on Hobbytalk about using a Fantom brushed dyno on brushless.
check it out.

Just curious.I have one of your 10.5 motors and its a very good motor.My question is what service do you perform on these.Is it mostly dyno,just wondering is there something material wise you perform on them other than bearings?Am I right in saying you guys say to run about 30 less on the rollout than on Novak?I don't mean for any of this to be negative in anyway.Just asking questions.We are selling our brushless motors, (10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5) dyno-tuned with the results included, along with rotor gauss measurement recorded.

Our Blueprinted Line Includes:

-Dyno Results Printout
-Rotor Strength (Gauss Measurement)

Ceramic Bearing Upgrade / Installation is also available for $20.

:thumbsup:

Todd Putnam
Putnam Propulsion
518-452-0422