still in progress...

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/3.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/chass.jpg

You have exceeded the concept of eliminating any excess chassis weight!!!!!
What's she handle like? Reminds me of the Pat Dennis Cobra that was done in the mid 60's. Absolutely awesome!

-Paul

Unreal!!! That lil cobra's:thumbsup: gotta fly!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

It's so fast I had to add weight to the front and a traction magnet to keep the thing from wheelie-ing off the track. The first run, it did a back flip. I have some 1/32 cars from the 60's that had a similar no chassis approach, so I thought I'd try it in HO scale. I'm gonna make up a few of these I think

Jimmy, that's way over the top. VERY COOL :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Well Jim looks like you've finally atained yer adjustable wheel base dreams. Have epoxy ...will travel!

Awesome stuff VJ. I love this place ....a place where the staus quo is unacceptable. A place where the old school and the new school meet head on.

Cool stuff Vj...keep us posted love to see Vidoe of that rocket when ya run it...

I'm gonna make one up for our annual Xmas exchange... so one of you lucky slotters will get one.... if Santa sees fit.

and Bill... yes, epoxy in your friend.

VJ- You are the master of Tyco Pro/Riggen guides. Very cool set up.

Jim

WHOAA.... so basic!!! LOL

Wes

Freakin Awsome VJ! Does the inline motor turned sideways have any effect that you can notice on the cornering?

Rich

Wow, thats pretty innovative VJ. I gotta tell you, your customs are always entertaining.

Have you tried retrofitting copper braids onto those riggen pickup assemblies in place of the wipers? Ive mastered installing those on HP-2s and curvehuggers and not only do they absolutely fly, likely due to the shunt effect, but the braids have very little downward pressure to the rails while still making firm contact. Less wheelie-ing, more adjustability, and the braids are cheap and readily available. Once the wipers are done, theyre done. I just havent figured out how to mate the braids to the assemblies and get the leads back to the motor on my Riggen and tycopros. Maybe you've got some ideas?

That's some cool stuff VJ, I enjoy seeing your "goop work" as much as Bill's. Innovation at work, always doing the unordinary, with great results!!! Keep em coming!!! RM

I was cruising this board at work and couldn't for the life of me figure out what the fuss was about...
(Pictures were blocked :freak: hence the confusion...)
But now I am home and all I can say is wowie whoa! Oddle, oddle oddle!!
That is Slllllick! With a capital SLICK!


Thanks for brightening my day.

Scott

Thanks guys... really means a lot coming from the talented pool of folks here.

Grunge: I think it would handle better if it had a better center of gravity.
It FLIES down a straight way and corners well... but I tried this same combo on a
Jada vette, and that baby just coasts and coasts. It takes a little longer to get to the top end because of the extra weight of a die cast body, but once that weight gets going... she just wants to ride smooth.

I have tried braids. I got some 1/32 braids as some extras in an ebay deal.
They had little eyes on the tip that you could solder wire too. They worked well, but I ran out of them around the same time I found my Riggen pick up sorce. The Riggens are just easier to work with so I stick with them. Glue some hollow plasticstruck, or Bic pen tubing to it, for use as an axel holder, and you have your whole front end assmebly ready to mount as one unit.

If you can't solder to your braids, could you wrap the tip of the braid in foil and solder to that? Or maybe dip the tips in some other melted hot metal that you could solder to?

Bill: I'm still thinking about that adjustable wheel base chassis I've been dreaming about for years now. I lined up some parts recently. We'll see.. maybe I'll get lucky.

Bill: I'm still thinking about that adjustable wheel base chassis I've been dreaming about for years now. I lined up some parts recently. We'll see.. maybe I'll get lucky.
HEY!!!!!!!!! Tyco pan chassis have an adjustable wheel base!!!!!!!!!!! You see, those guys had it figured out years ago! :hat:

Good ol' American Tyco engineering!
Rich:lol:

HEY!!!!!!!!! Tyco pan chassis have an adjustable wheel base!!!!!!!!!!! You see, those guys had it figured out years ago! :hat:

Good ol' American Tyco engineering!
Rich:lol:

yyeeaahhh!!! Tyco rules! :)

Wes

still in progress...

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/3.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/chass.jpg

Hey this is one trick pony VJ. Love it!

Bob...let's bring this Sweet Cobra picture over to the next page...zilla

[QUOTE=videojimmy;2545345]Thanks guys... really means a lot coming from the talented pool of folks here.

Grunge: I think it would handle better if it had a better center of gravity.
It FLIES down a straight way and corners well... but I tried this same combo on a
Jada vette, and that baby just coasts and coasts. It takes a little longer to get to the top end because of the extra weight of a die cast body, but once that weight gets going... she just wants to ride smooth.

I have tried braids. I got some 1/32 braids as some extras in an ebay deal.
They had little eyes on the tip that you could solder wire too. They worked well, but I ran out of them around the same time I found my Riggen pick up sorce. The Riggens are just easier to work with so I stick with them. Glue some hollow plasticstruck, or Bic pen tubing to it, for use as an axel holder, and you have your whole front end assmebly ready to mount as one unit.

If you can't solder to your braids, could you wrap the tip of the braid in foil and solder to that? Or maybe dip the tips in some other melted hot metal that you could solder to?

QUOTE]

Seems like your weight distribution issues are due to the corvair effect--the motor/axle assembly is the heaviest thing on this and its at the rear. The neo dot looks like a step in the right direction though. Might need 2 of em.

Ive been getting my braids from Radio Shack. They sell rolls of copper desoldering braids for like $4 for a 5 ft roll of the stuff. Its much lighter guage than whats used on 1/32 slots or microscalextrics which means its easy to work with. AND its one solid roll, so trim how you want. But be careful, since at some point they got away from the braids and went to a stranded design. Ive gotten it to work, but it takes a lot more fiddling around with it to keep contact with the track rails since it wants to separate at the ends.

I just figure it'd be hard to solder to the braids since theyre made for removing solder from old joints through capilary action. The main challenge would be mounting them to the riggen or tycopro wiper mounts...

Grunge: could you drill a tiny hole in the tip after the solder was added? Then maybe you could screw them into the front end

HEY!!!!!!!!! Tyco pan chassis have an adjustable wheel base!!!!!!!!!!! You see, those guys had it figured out years ago! :hat:

Good ol' American Tyco engineering!
Rich:lol:

They only have two positions for the front axel, right?
I'm thinking more along the lines of how a trombone works.. a sliding front end that allows the chassis to be adjusted to any length. I'd also like to figure out how to make removeable body clips, so the chassis could be used with Tomy AFX style, Tyco or life like bodies.

I'm not sure if I'm smart enough to figure it all out, but I'll be messing around with for a while any way. :freak:

VJ--Good idea, that actually might work. In fact, you could probably knock out the mounting and lead wire issues in one shot with that.

And ive thought of the sliding front axle thing too. Another way to go would be to go the Matchbox route: Have an axle retainer in the body and just have the chassis carry the rear wheels. Same effect as the sliding retainer but much simpler and without the need to engineer another moving part.

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/shortys5.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/shortys2.jpg

The decals make such a big difference!!! Super sweet!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Joe

Agreed!

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/GRNCOBRA3.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/GRNCOBRABOTTOM.jpg

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/YELCOBRA2.jpg


http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/customs/YELCOBRABOTTOM.jpg


removable traction magnets

Sweet cobras VJ!! What are the wheels on the green one?? They look like vincents... :thumbsup::thumbsup:

UtherJoe

you are correct slotman.. both cars have Vincent rims

Looking goooood again VJ!!! Those stickers just add the finishing touch. I like the wheel choice myself. :thumbsup::thumbsup: You got a patent on those modified chassis??? RM

VJ,
Great looking Cobras!! Very nice way, you change the wheel base with direct drive - very unique chassis modifications. :thumbsup::thumbsup: ..RL

VJ, desoldering braid works GREAT!!!! as a replacement for the tyco pro flat copper, I am using some on my riggens with a dynabrute flag. Ive also soldered some to regular tyco shoes on my 440's an they make a big difference when the track is dirty, they clean as the run, an LOVE the cobras

You've got a winning pair there, VJ. These are sweet from both the looks and the engineering departments. Rock On! :thumbsup:

vj here is a pick of what im describing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_0955.jpg

nice tip and nice pics Goodwrentch... it's not so much the braids as it is the guide assemblies I need for my customs. I put an order in with Riggen yesterday for 20 more set ups.... I have 2 weeks off from work at the end of Decemeber... and a bunch of custom projects set up.. just collecting parts in the meantime.

Thans for the tip... I may try to make my own guides, using the patented Goodwrtetch braid idea

What did 20 set ups cost you?? Are they just the guild or the whole set up?

it's the whole set up, guide and flags... 10 bucks per. A little steep, but I really like using them on my customs

still in progress...

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/3.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DASH/chass.jpg

What an incredible and unique conversion! Very inspirational!

VJ--Good idea, that actually might work. In fact, you could probably knock out the mounting and lead wire issues in one shot with that.

And ive thought of the sliding front axle thing too. Another way to go would be to go the Matchbox route: Have an axle retainer in the body and just have the chassis carry the rear wheels. Same effect as the sliding retainer but much simpler and without the need to engineer another moving part.

Hopefully it's okay to post these pictures, I lost the links to where I got them. They're from some slot car magazines from the 60s. Some interesting ways to make adjustable wheelbases.