This is what happens if you leave your car near the San Onofre plant too long... Give nuke 'em 'till they glow a whole nuther meaning.

Russ the Hutt :drunk::hat::freak::dude::tongue:

Hmmmmm.... A Camar-O-Lantern......

TOO FUNNY:freak:

While my painting, futuring, gluing and milling capabilities need some serious improvement.. ( I think I got the same cloud hanging over me that VJ did), I did manage to make some more headway in the easy maintainance fully removeable chassis!! The Bad Dawg LRW is equipped this way, as was honda's dud camaro.. Here's the inside skinny on it....

This body gave me some room the work with, so all the chassis needed was a diode to keep the current flowing one way only. If you think of the flow of electricity as water, this diode is like a check valve.. current is only allowed to go in one direction. This is the same diode installed on the Xceleracer chassis. The resistors were attached to the body so this made the whole package easy to mess with..

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/242bfe1e.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/b5eca022.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/560cb9e7.jpg

The only tricky part is getting the connectors lined up.. I still need to trim the posts a bit and level the body off a little; then I can glue the connectors in place..

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/aec9d76e.jpg

Everything fairly neat and orderly underneath.. Slowly but surely it's getting there.. I had a streak start like VJ just went through with the partridge family bus and got some glue on the tonneau. I'm hoping a couple more coats of future will make it go away.. Fingers are crossed..

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/42565b68.jpg

Throwing a couple different pics on the CLM thread..

Looks great Ujoe! Clearly the adapted Faller method was the way to go.

Appears to be neat, reproducable for production, and best of all achieves the goal of a properly lighted t-jet car ...WITH A CHASSIS THAT'S EASILY REMOVED FOR SERVICE ! :woohoo:

Too bad about the cloud. Just take a break from it all. Very cool looking truck :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Electrician, I am not. I understand wiring the LED's in series, but in the picture of the underside of the body, it looks like too many wires. It looks like the left front headlight has wires going to the left rear and the right rear taillights. I see how the the front wires would be attached to the chassis, but I don't see where the rear chassis connection meets the body wires? By the way, the rear wiring on the chassis is very neat. Great spot to run a wire through.
Jim

Ok Jim.. I'll 'splain it to ya... The LEDs are wired in series. The white headlights are one string, and the red tail lights are another. The only thing on the chassis is a diode to help keep the power going one way. The reason for splitting the LEDs front and rear is the red LEDs require less voltage / more resistance than the white ones. They share the power through the posts, but have a different resistor (I changed the back one after the pic was taken) on each series. Looking at the underside pic, the white wire is the hot which is fed through the front post. The grey wire is the neg and if you look carefully it goes from the right tail light to the right head light and back. It would have been easier to figure out if I had the ring terminals on them, but I can't make it that easy for you guys!! :lol: Now that I look at it, I guess I could have just run the grey wire from the right front to the right rear and out the post.. :rolleyes: ooops!!

My big fingers are getting cramps in the joints from just LOOKING at that wiring roadmap, Ujoe. Fantastic work! :thumbsup:

I sure wish I had my old AC/DC electronics books. We used to do these circuits and setups in class and I cannot for the life of me remember any of it. I know, a lot of good I am, huh?

If I can find it I'll post up what we did. Sorry man.

PD2:thumbsup:

While in chat Weds the LRW was brought up and my sloppy glue mess was discussed. After a few minutes of gentle persuasion, I decided that this could not go out looking like it did. I wasn't about to try to respray 3 layers of paint on the tonneau to try and match the funky mist job, so it was suggested I go with black. Before I got off chat the bed covr was stripped and ready for paint. I first attempted to brush it on, but it looked worse than the glue did!!! :lol: I restripped it, taped it off.. (only lost one decal on tape removal) and shot it a nice matte black. Now this brought up another problem. Surfboards on a soft tonneau just don't look right. I dug into my bag of tricks (spare parts for train set buildings and slots) and found the window bars from the IRS building on my table. I used them for the roof rack on the yellow surfer van also, so I knew they would work... Anyways, here is the final version of the LED Red Wagon as it sail off into the sunset.. Mailed out this AM...

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/737a5167.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/c36435d3.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/4cbb93b4.jpg

Thanks to you guys who gave me the shove to make a boo boo better!!! I would have regretted not fixing it forever had I not. There still was a tad bit of CA bleeding on the flat black paint, most of which I touched up. Macrovision always has a way of bringing this stuff up to the forefront..


Adios, Mr. gnome!!!! Enjoy your new home!!!

Looks awesome Joe. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: A little Testors dullcoat would fix the CA bleeding out I think.

I've got a friend out there!!!! A while back, someone got ahold of me through youtube about lighting slots, and I gave him a little info on some lights... I think he did an awesome job, better than me for sure, and he put together a wicked cool video to highlight his creations!!!!! I've invited him to HT to check us out, and I really hope he joins in our mayhem here!!! Here is a link to his video..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvgvqLqWQhw


Dang nice job Cap't!!!! Really nice!!!

That video is really cool! I didn't see Peter Yates in the credits as the director. Would have sworn that he had to have directed...

Video was awesome, but no way that old rusty Dodge was gonna beat the Stang, I cheered when the Copstang dumped his hemi off the overpass..lol...


Dave
Have you Driven a Ford Lately? oh wait you now have no choice.

Ujoe,

This is an awesumly done up video. See what you have inspired. :thumbsup: What a car chase!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Loved it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :woohoo::roll:

Bob...Those blinking lights usualy mean pull over to most of us...zilla

Hey man, those blinking lights like mean the man is after you. Yah know? So like it means you like hafta drive like faster man. :freak::freak::freak::freak:

Thanks for the wiring clarity. SIlly me, I should have known that the red LED's took less power. The video was great. The buildings were really unique, but fit the scene perfectly. I like how even the LED's light up vs. traditional grain of wheat bulbs, not to mention how the whole car lights up with the old bulbs.
Jim

I wasn't sure where to put this... It's not a custom car, so it shouldn't go in the CLM thread.. So here it goes!!

I'm putting together another 6X chassis, but did a bit of experimenting with the gearing this time around. The problem using the second idler gear is it leaves a huge gap between the drives. A spread axle trailer is not an uncommon sight, but a spread axle tractor is unusual to say the least.. Luckily, between parts ordered off the bay and a big box o' parts from hojohn I had the bits and pieces to give this a shot. This is by no means perfect, nor is it assembled or tested other than a few spins of the arm gear with the add on section snugged up behind. This was more an experiment to see if the concept is feasible, and what the axle spacing would look like finished.

I used a JL set up initially, but the hypno gears don't work right without the added stress of 3 extra gears so that idea was rather quickly scrapped. A NOS aurora was then utilized. I also scrounged up a tough ones pinion and a brass driven gear to complete the puzzle. This was, as I said, a quickie experiment. My initial concept was to drill a pilot hole for the new idler and then melt a brad into the top plate to hold it. Sadly, the pilot hole I drilled was off thanks to the totally out of round plastic JL TO pinion I started with. Drilling the new idler hole oversized to make the brass gear fit better made for a sloppy fit, so care must be excercized in placement. Because of the sloppy fit, a pinion shaft / gear are being used to hold the new idler in place... I still need to do a final trim of the top plate extension and glue it on. I might redo the top plate extension before I do anything "permanent" as I hate to waste a good top plate for a good experiment gone wrong. Here's how it looks so far....

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/2c6fd4b3.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/20651098.jpg

By the way, The truck is a 1/87 Norscot Peterbuilt. There's a few of us who are tinkering with powering these.. Kinda of a slow motion shoot out to see who can finish first..:lol:

I'm not sure if a 9 tooth pinion would work instead of the TO gear. It might put the tires too close together. I was thinking of powering an AW semi with this chassis, but TJets are taller than AFX chassis.. It won't fit right.. Bummer!! :cry: It was fun playing with it though!! :thumbsup:

Hi folks,

I "lighted" one of my custom resin Tyco ´40 Ford bodies (HP-7 chassis) for last weekend´s races my son and I attended.

Although my car was the heaviest in the field (due to the voltage regulator and "goldcap" capacitor) and our team finished last (of 3 teams) she was pure fun to drive. The coupé was the only car you could always locate easiliy because of the permanent lighting and the added blue/red-blinking LED I added behind the windshield (removed that yesterday before taking these shots).

One of the guys liked my car so much that he ordered a set of four lighted bodies cast in lane colors... :rolleyes:

I used "sunny white" 3 mm LEDs for the headlights, the next ones will get smaller LEDs (1.8 mm) in the rear.

So here´s the pix:

http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_01.jpg


http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_02.jpg


http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_03.jpg


http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_04.jpg

Have a great weekend all!

Greetings from Germany,

Claus

I really have to get into this lighting thing.

Sweet lighting job Claus!!!!! I never had any luck running a 5 volt regulator in a car, but I didn't have the diode at the time either.. I agree with the smaller tail lights but I would suggest going 2.0mm rather than 1.8mm.. The 1.8's I've been getting are on the brittle side and the slightest bend on the anode or cathode makes for a 2 piece LED. Another suggestion I want to throw your way is to sand or grind the headlights dome off. It makes the LED's light more directional, and a bit more realistic. After grinding them, a quick brush with CA smooths them right out and brings back the clarity to the lens. That is a pretty big capacitor in there.. Just out of curiosity, how long will the LEDs stay lit after the power is off?? I like the plug system you've utilized, and have been mentally tinkering with different methods of power transfer. Looks like you have a nice durable, race proven design there..:thumbsup::thumbsup:

You can do it Doba!!!! You know you want to!!! Take the plunge!! :thumbsup:

P.S. For those of you (like myself) who have never messed around with them super capacitors.. Handle them carefully!! They store power and can pack a wallop that'll knock you on your butt. :drunk::freak: Make sure you discharge them before handling!! At least this is what I've read about them.. I want to try one, but my mental limitations and respect for the unknown prevent me from taking the plunge.. :tongue:

I really have to get into this lighting thing.


LOL...or, you could just be REALLY nice to Ujoe! :D

These gals just getting off of work from Hooters?

Nice job on the lighted FoRd Claus!

http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_04.jpg

Very cool and thanks for sharing the pics of it with us. :thumbsup:

Bob...light on you silver diamond...zilla (Bob Hovendick)

http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_04.jpg[/IMG]


That is a good looking picture!!! That'd make a good movie scene, " Highway Pick-Up". I'd stop for those hot babes too!!! ... RM

http://www.aus-dem-rahmen-gefallen.de/slotcars/forum/ch_40_ford_lighted_04.jpg[/IMG]


That is a good looking picture!!! That'd make a good movie scene, " Highway Pick-Up". I'd stop for those hot babes too!!! ... RM

Too bad you can't see the chain saw the one on the right has behind he back...

That is a good looking picture!!! That'd make a good movie scene, " Highway Pick-Up". I'd stop for those hot babes too!!! ... RM

Too bad you can't see the chain saw the one on the right has behind he back...[/QUOTE]

Uh, That sounds like a different movie, "Highway to Hell" ... RM

Too bad you can't see the chain saw the one on the right has behind he back...

Uh, That sounds like a different movie, "Highway to Hell" ... RM[/QUOTE]

Or it could be a scene from Route 666. Here is a portion of the Title Song:

http://falconband.net/sounds/route666clip.mp3

The Hutt has rocker friends because I can BE THE STAGE!!!

Fingers are crossed as I attempt to make the funkiest LED in my arsonal work on a slot car chassis. This little puppy flashes 3 different colors (red / blue / green) and then fades from one color to the next. At least the body this will be going in is big enough to accept a battery is I have to go that route. I'll keep you posted as I have information.. Also, one is going in the bar because it does replicate stage lights better than the cruddy red/blue I have in there.

P.S. Russ, that song you posted makes me think of Warren Zevon.. I don't know why...:freak:

(red / blue / green) in the bar...Disco Fever!!!

This thread has fallen into obscurity, due to neglect!! I haven't done much in the custom lighting department lately, in large part due to the heat and humidity... neither of which is a friend of mine. I do have a couple thing for show and tell, that I received here and there that I am proud to say are in the highest level of my display case. These top notch cars came from my hobby talk friends, and are considered priceless treasures..


http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2400.jpg

These are the cars in the spotlight!!!

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2410.jpg
This little bad boy came as a total suprize from nutherDave. I just bout broke into tears when I saw it. This is a Bauer Alfa done up in screaming yellow, fully nutherized chassis, exquisite decal work and flawless in every detail.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2412.jpg

It's friend is a win43 gas wars stang that is equally flawless!! Trading with Jerry always tends to be lopsided, and I owe him big time. One of these days I'll get caught up..
http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2411.jpg

The punkin' stang is also tops on my list of favorites!!

These guys came through trades from Bob... The Paintmeister ...Zilla. Unbelieveable decal work, paint and detail!! The red baron is my fave of the pair, and I'm still tossing around the concept of making the yellow one a sopwith camel..

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2408.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2409.jpg

A couple weeks ago I got a parcel from CJ containing a Mel's Drive in, and I was going to try to fit it on the table, but just couldn't squeeze it on there. Rather than have it just sit there I decided to make a little bit bigger diorama out of it..

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2431.jpg

I still need to fix the backdrop. My error, I painted the sky first, then did the grass. Now there's "grass clippings" aloft and can't get rid of them. Next backdrop will be better, with a curve as opposed to a sharp angle in the corner.. and in case you're wondering.. I did make me one car. Herbie has joined the fleet!!!

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp251/slotcarman12078/100_2407.jpg

Thanks for stopping by!!!

I do have a couple things for show and tell, that I received here and there, that I am proud to say are in the highest level of my display case

What Joe does NOT mention is that he's sent out some really slick ( l.e.d. lighted ) little beauties to MANY of us. At his own expense, on his own time, and unsolicited he sent out some one of a kind pieces to us tards... just because ! ! All on chassis mind you... and chassis don't exactly grow on trees these days. He even fixed mine when it had a problem!!!

So Joe??... Let this be a lesson to ya. That's what ya get for messin with us. :roll: .... Friendship is the heavy price you'll pay if ya wanna get on our good side like this... and you will pay dearly. Consider yourself warned!!!! :lol: nd

Some great viewing! Really like the background, too!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: ..RL

Yep U-Joe,

Know exactly how you feel. Getting that LED Slickster from you was my inspiration for the Slickster II. Make that yeller guy a Camel man...just do it! Every Red Barron needs a Snoopy. :devil: Didn't forget about the Van either as that thing lights up our track as well now and then. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Fletcher loves the lighted stuff you sent to Nebraska man!

ND put the tack on the wall with the generosity of your LED creations and now you deserve a little YOU time!

That yellow ND Alfa is one fine machine and that Mustang is right there with it too. Glad you got them along with that CJ Mels Dinner. You are certainly "get a slot car in the mail" worthy my friend.

Bob...it is good to be you...zilla

Great Stuff!!!!! And yeah what 'nuther said ;)

I likes that Mel's Dinner diorama, especially with all those cool looking cars gathered around!!! Must be Saturday night!!! RM

I likes that Mel's Dinner diorama, especially with all those cool looking cars gathered around!!! Must be Saturday night!!! RM

Not sure if I'm going to make it a zombie free zone or not!!! The funny thing about it is I went through all the extra work to get a lightbulb inside the building, and never lit it up when taking pictures.. :p

Thanks for the kudo's guys, but the inspiration to keep the lights lit came from you guys!! My little break has to end one of these days, and when it does, look for some better stuff coming out of CL&M!!

I am about ready to get back to work!!! I have to now!!! I just placed a good sized LED order from Mouser Electronics!! Look out slot car body stash!!! None of you are safe now!! Hahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!:devil:

WOOHOO

chop chop drill drill solder solder

I'm bumpin up this thread for a friend of mine.

Enjoy!

Thanks Rich!! LOL

Over the past year plus a bit I have learned a little bit. Sadly, mostly the hard way!! :lol: I just want to add a few reminders to this, especially to the few who only read the first few pages and then try to do these.

First and foremost, it is worth the space usage to have some sort of a rectifier diode in the power series. Either a small 50V full wave bridge rectifier, or a simple 1N4001 type (also for up to 50 V). This will help cut the reverse voltage from frying your LEDs.

Secondly, if you are going to use flasher LEDs, Rich :lol:, you will need a small disc or other type capacitor to keep the current to those flashers steady. Just be careful with electrolytic types, as they are polarity sensitive, and can kinda explode. You don't need anything huge as the current draw on most LEDs is in the 10-30 milliamp range. A super cap can store enough juice to send you flying, so unless you know what you're doing, I would use caution with the big ones. I still consider myself an "amateur" so I shy away from the big ones.

I have found most plastics to carry a lot of light through them, so I paint most of my light ups inside and out. Silver does a very good job of keeping the glow down. Black resin seems to mask the unwanted light OK, but then most of the time you will want to paint it anyway. It takes a steady hand to solder inside a body, and I try to do as much of it on a helping hands. It is better to have to solder a couple times to get the spacing correct than doing it in the car body and melting something. And as a bonus, the gator clips act as a heat sink to help keep you from damaging the LEDs.

Always try to pay attention to the LEDs when you're setting them up for soldering. The long prong (anode) is the positive side, the shorter (cathode) goes to ground. I never did try to wire flasher LEDs in series so I don't know if this will work. I would think the fluctuations in the power feed would throw things off. Trying to keep the power flow at a 10 - 15 milliamp flow is difficult enough with the varying rate of power from the track as it is, so any other electrical disturbance can only make matters worse (I'm guessing here..) so I would set them up direct, and depending on the resistor requirements either go with a solo resistor on each, or maybe 2 flashers into one resistors if the need isn't for a huge one. The size will depend on the voltage feed, the amount of voltage used by the LED, and the amp requirements of the LED. The higher voltage you throw at the LEDs, the bigger Ohm and wattage of the resistor will be necessary.

There are some short cuts you can try, I really haven't yet. For plain LEDs, you can generally mix the sizes (shapes) without an issue. White and blue LEDs require more voltage than red, yellow, green, orange and purple. You can save a ton of room with head and tail lights by using all white LEDs, and painting the tail lights with a few coats of candy red. How this helps is at 3.5 volts used by each LED, you can wire them in series. That's 14 volts worth of juice being used by the string, so the resistance needed is low, and the wattage requirement is smaller too. It also makes for a much simplified wiring schematic. I'm still learning everyday. It's fun to experiment. Even when I blow something up!!:lol: I see it this way.. For a high school drop out with no electrical training what so ever, I can do it (most of the time). And if I can, anyone can!!! :thumbsup:

How was Slotcarman's and Partspig's Excellent Adventure??? Did old Eleanor pull through?? nd

Other than a few (like 15) visits to the shoulder of the highway, she made the trip OK. It was nerve wracking not knowing if "this time" would be the one that left us stranded.. Funny thing though, after the first visit to the shoulder on the way home, I fiddled with plugs for all the sensors under the hood, and we cruised home without a hitch... :thumbsup:

I will say it was definitely an adventure! Had a good time at the show too! Give Eleanor a kiss for me, Joe!

Bumping for jt!

OK, take pity, I would like to read this entire thread, but not right now. anyway. I have bought some red/blue flashing LEDs that have resistors(for 12 DC volt usage) already soldered on. I replaced the lights on top of an Aurora(overheads chassis replaced with Tomy Turbo) state police car. on power supply at even only 9 volts, the lights (two of them) flash nicely. when placed on the track, they simply come on, usually red and won't flash. what rate resistor will work to allow enough voltage or whatever to allow the lights to flash as designed? I have tried even high power, 18 volt, power supplies on friends track and no luck. I have a very limited knowledge of electronics, but can follow directions and solder fairly well. I am certain this can be easily fixed, just need the knowledge. thank you all in advance, and I am prepared for the onslaught of teasing about not reading the whole thread. my answer is probably burried in there somewhere. al

Welcome to my nightmare Al!!! First off, let me say thanks for giving this a shot. I've had so so luck with making flashers work on any slot car, and the Tomy chassis seem to be the hardest to make right. I don't know what the deal is, but even regular LEDs give me trouble. I've only had decent luck with one flasher LED set up, purchased from Evans Designs. http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-213-f.html These are the ones you want for slot cars. They have 2 versions, one for transformers (which sounds like what you have) and the ones for AC/DCC (which are the ones you need). The differences are the ohms of the resistor, and the full wave bridge rectifier and capacitor set up. The AC?DCC are good from 7 to 19 volts.

I've disassembled one, and did as much homework as I possibly could going by part numbers, and still have yet to find the magical combination of parts to make my own that work. For the 3.00 a pop price (2.80 if you buy a certain amount) they're well worth the cost. They even come with a 2 year warranty. They ship quickly, from CO to NY I had them in 3-4 days. I just got a batch in early this week, and I'm happy as usual with their service. Other good points about these LED sets are they can be wired either way (thanks to the rectifier) and the wire is very thin, strips easily with a thumb nail, and is easy to conceal inside the body. I would use caution when putting the body on to make sure the wire doesn't get into the arm area. Another hint for you. Red light won't show very well through a blue lens, and blue won't show through red. If the over head lenses on the car are clear, then the blue/ red combo will work good. If they are one red, and one blue, I would get one LED of each color and match them red for red and blue for blue, or get white flashing LEDs for both.

Best of luck on your adventure, and if you have any more questions, feel free to hit me here! I am no electrical genius by any stretch. I'm just crazy enough to keep on experimenting.

thanx slotcarman/dude. if I come up with any magic, I'll be sure to let you know. thanx for the link too. carry on lighting!

GREAT thread Slotcarman. So much info here. I plan to add light to my makes.

It's fun and frustrating at the same time, slotto! Back when I got into slots in the late 80's, I was tinkering with LEDs, but at the time I was technically challenged (no computer) and too lazy to get a book!! Needless to say, I burned them out quick! :tongue: I was lighting my own cars, though the techniques were sloppy. I was using train light bulbs and clear plastic model sprue for head light lenses. Basically, I was making my own versions of flame throwers.

This time around I had the web, and info at my fingertips. I would have never gone down the LED path had it not been for the total disappointment with the AW version of flame throwers. Glowing hoods just don't cut it, unless the car is powered by flubber! :lol: I make it a point to do everything in my power to have the light exit the body where it's supposed to, and not anywhere else. It makes for a lot of work, extra layers of paint, and care to make the holes as close to the proper shape and size. Then I have to fit the LEDs to the holes, and I have a secret weapon for tail light lenses that works pretty good too. ( Hot melt glue for hair extensions is the trick... go for the redheads!! ) For big lenses (like a 59 Chevy) I make a silicone mold of the back of the car, and use the mold when I squirt in the hot melt.

I was choosy about what bodies I light, before because of the tail light issues, and now because of head light issues. Fitting the LEDs isn't always simple. Cars like the 59 Chevy I did were great until I tried to get LEDs in the nose. Darn things just don't fit no matter how you put them in. I'm still searching for different LEDs, smaller packaging and shapes. I know there's more choices out there, but finding them hasn't happened yet. The search continues!! Any questions, ask away!!