An eBay purchase. If it wasn't one of my favorite body styles, it probably would have been in the goop jar.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o308/T-jetjim/IMG_2449-1.jpg
Repair work on the wheel wells, pillars and new screw posts.
http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o308/T-jetjim/IMG_2470.jpg

Jim

Nice job..I surely would have thought that a goner!!! Goop rules!!:thumbsup:

Way to go Jim!

I've got a coupla white with red stripe torinos I've been avoiding for some time. Durn things always have the rear wells hacked. They are also molded quite thin so the roof and pillars are always fubared too!

Butternut yellow is very challenging to work with. Even more challenging when you have black stripes in yer way. Tell us what you used to fix it!


BTW: Are you using cigar box aluminum rims?

Jim,

Nice save there man! You did some great work on this one. To drive another day...Yeah! :thumbsup:

Bob...lookin' good now...zilla

Bill- The screw posts were not too hard. Just got a couple of donor posts and plugged them in place with yellow goop. I lost the raised hood line on the front. I got pretty close to having it contoured just right and messed it up. I needed your suggested flat files.
Despite having a massive donor pile, I had zero pillars available. I had to use a corvette roof cut in pillar strips. I tried to put the grooves in the pillars before cutting from the corvette roof. I CA'd the pillars in place followed by goop. The CA is a mistake. It makes the area dark and difficult to smooth.
The rear wheel wells are a bear because they are molded. Once again, I needed the flat files. I put tape over the black line and was able to save the one on this side of the car. I redid the wheel wells several times.
Bill, I am a long way from your expertise, but I love trying to save these babies.
Jim

Oh lord yes! CA is an absolute nono when working with goop. Sorry Jim I thought you knew. It is completely incommpatible with the process and should be treated as a scourge. Equally, great care should be taken that none gets into a batch via contaminated scrap.

When cooking scrap, I frequently toss areas of scrap cars that might have CA contamination...IE: bumper areas, windsheild or glass mounting areas, as well as areas where a spoiler or wing may have been mounted. It's just not worth the risk to find a chunk in a repair or shot onto a hood or roof while spraying. Arrrrrrrgh! A lesson learned early on!

Note: When free sculpting wells, it's normal to go over them several times until you get them right. I try not to count and prefer to use lots of thinned little skims rather than the Campbells Thick and Chunky that requires excessive sanding. Thinner skims cure faster, exhibit zero pinholing, and the puddle edges feather down almost automatically.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f30/modelmurdering/DSC04779.jpg

Here's a tip for when ya really get rolling with this stuff. You'll note two jugs of green in this weeks Torn...auto repair. The one labled vibe green is full strength goop....base.

The uther jug, marked "W" for wash, is 100% thinned base, by volume. It's flowable and cooperative. If ya dont have extra jugs or material I just mix a dab of base in the lid of the base jug and work from there. What small amount of thinned material gets back into the thicker mix is a non factor. Actually a benefit as this stuff will thicken up in storage and require a slobber of thinner from time to time. You can aslo mix it on a pocket mirror but you have to be quick as it will begin to flash immediatly when placed on a mirror.

Basic assembly work or tacking this bit to that bit is always done with the thinner wash. Keep the CA for it's intended purpose...like glueing your fingers together. :p

LOL! Cant believe you didnt have yellow posts in that t-jet menagerie of yours. :freak:

Nice work. You brought her back nicely.

Nice save Jim. The Torino is a favorite of mine.

:thumbsup::thumbsup: rr