I picked up four new hardbody Tomy cars a few months back,two of them being Aussie release GT 40s.

FInally had a chance to take a little time with one.Started off with a GT 40 body,kept it box stock on the first test.

Was able to get in the mid 6's on my track.Not great,as I can get high to mid 4's with a G3 SS.

Took it over to the bench.Put an axle with a stock gear on it and some slip on 440's and got it into the low 6's after lessening the shoe tension a bit as well.

Put a Wiz front end kit on it with ureathane wheels,and the GT 40 body dragged.

Put an old MT Ferrari Can Am style on the chassis.

After a few laps I was in the high 5's.A few more and I was in the mid 5's,with the best lap being a 5.2.

So all said and done,with maybe like 7 bucks into the chassis,I was pretty happy with the results.Enough so that next I will mess with the bearings and the end bell.

Not bad,and a lot cheaper then a G3 roller.I think there is some potential in these.

Mike

Go ahead and check them on a tech block.

All the Super G+ chassis, even the new gray Nylatron ones I checked had the left front wheel up.

Please let me know how the ones you have are.

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I assume you mean $7.00 after the initial cost of the chassis. Fortunately these chassis are widely available for around $14.00. I'm a big fan of the new SG+ chassis because you can build a nice little race car with body for around $25.00. That's Tyco price/performance/fun territory.

All SG+ chassis since the #2 mold have had the" left front wheel up" stance. This has not been an issue with racers since the SG+ Mod class days.

Incidentally, the stock rear tires on the Tomy SG+ can be made to perform quite well if sanded flat. Chuck an axle with a hub into a Dremel and sand the tires with an emery board until they are flat. Use a tire sizer or caliper to get the size you prefer. I had dozens of stock Tomy rear end sets gathering dust in a drawer until I started racing box stock that required stock rear tires on the SG+. Using sandpaper technology coupled with Dremel technology I was able to make up stock rear end sets in the .428 to .442 range just from the rear end sets laying dormant in the drawer. Works great, not supertire grip by any means and not quite clean silicone grip, but far, far better than the concave profile of the stock, untreated SG+ tires and they are very dust repellent compared to silicone. I use a couple of tiny (tiny!) drops of superglue gel on the rim to hold them a little tighter on their rims after they've been sanded/sized, but other folks prefer to leave them loose. For a box stock home track runner class these are more than good enough to perk up a box stock SG+. If you aim for something in the .436 - .440 range you will have a good all around setup for most home tracks. The best part is that it costs you nothing but a little time and electricity and you can afford to put these on every car in your box.

I advise against trying to sand tires to any great extent on the car using the car's motor. A little touch up maybe, but major grinding, no.

Most of my Super G+ chassis ended up like this, 6 of them.
I never really got to compete with one.
I'd get them running good then have to start all over again.

http://i36.tinypic.com/2nq4pjl.jpg

I'd promote the BSRT G3 as being the real bargain for a racing slot car.

Me and my racing partner each raced 26 races last year with G3s and only 1 broke.
But it got punted off the track into the infield by another G3,
and crashed into a NASCAR die-cast model semi truck.

http://i34.tinypic.com/20icnlu.jpg

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Super,

I had the same thing happen to all my Tomy chassis.:freak: Racemeaters replaced every one. Most were with the new type material.

A G3 stiff chassis Ceramic Modified car broke a pickup 'titty' as well.:( I replaced it with a G3-R and so far no issues.:thumbsup:

TF

My chassis seems to fit flat,I really didnt notice one side up,but I'll check it 100% tomorrow.

Any of the old black licorice Tomy chassis I broke was right there in the guide pin area like yours Super.

I always thought that the old ones were too stiff.I prefer a medium G3 chassis for any type of SS stuff.

The new chassis seem quite similar in flex to a G3 medium.

Anyone check the mags on a new SG+??????Wondering iff they are as strong as the ones in the G3 ceramic roller.

Mike

Locally I race G3s. Superstock, G-Jet, and the new Boxstock (901) and Clubstock (905). I have lots of older Super Gs, and generally tune the Super Gs by replacing the pickups, springs, rear axle, crown gear (22T or 23T), and rear tires (428-438).

Occasionally i get frustrated by a brittle black tomy chassis and swap the parts to a G3 chassis.

As for common tuning tweaks, i tweak the end bell brush contacts and the contacts that touch the shoe hangers. clean the shoe hangers with a dremel and wire brush. clean the comm with a fine grit emery board with the arm chucked in a dremel. oil front and rear bushings lightly. i even drill out the stock bulkhead in the same area that has holes in the BSRT G3 bulkheads. sometimes i replace the rear bushing with a beedle bushing (BSRT performance part). i dont match motor magents, the ones ive measured have seemed pretty consisitent.

id like to know what other racers do for the front and rear bushings? ive tried boring out the bushings using a 0.061 drill blank, but i am not sure that helps much. i am concerned that i am overly enlarging the hole in the bushing, and getting too much slop. any thoughts?

id like to know what other racers do for the front and rear bushings? ive tried boring out the bushings using a 0.061 drill blank, but i am not sure that helps much. i am concerned that i am overly enlarging the hole in the bushing, and getting too much slop. any thoughts?

Reaming the bushings never seemed to make much difference as far as I could tell.

I will tell you one thing that seems to help a bit at least.Get yourself some pipe cleaners(those wires with the fuzzy stuff on them,tobacco and smoke shops have them)and polish the inner surface of the bushings with Brasso until they are smooth as a mirror.

Also,the arm slot from front to back on the arm seems to be more imporrtant then the slop from side to side.

I like to shim the arm with the non metallic shims.Not TOO tight tho,leave a few thousandths of play.

Also,the Brasso and pipe cleaner thing works good on the comm plates on the arm as well.But:BE CAREFUL!!!!!!!!!!

I hold the arm in my fingers,and wrap a Brasso soaked pipe cleaner around the comm plates on the arm and spin carefully.You will be amazed at the amount of black crap that comes off of the plates,even on a new out of the pack arm.

I had pics somewhere of how to do the end bell tweaks.Cant find them,but I know they were on a Canadian HO board.Hey Rick aka Hornet,ya out there buddy??????Your the guy that hooked me up with the pics a few years back.

Mike

The stock bushings work good when reemed to .0605.
Getting the hangers and shoes right so that the shoes
ride flat is much harder than on a new G3R but not
impossible.I have not broken a Gray G+ chassis yet.
BSRT 22t crown,some slipons,true the fronts-cheap
play car.

Mike,looks like the old Canuck board has disappeared,and i never kept any copies of the old pic's.I figured most guys had probably memorized the pics,and mods,as the last time i looked at the old post there'd been almost 11,000 hits to it:wave:If anybody happened to copy the pic's ,you got my permission to post them.Personally i wouldn't ream the G's bushings,as i think it aggravates it's problem of shaking the arm in the chassis,causing the old dreaded bushing shake problem,which causes brush bounce,polish the stock bushings is all we ever used to do,keep the bushing clearance as tight as possible with-out binding when it's hot,keeps the brushes on the com better,another old trick with old stock sintered bushings is to push a stock tyco rear axle through the bushing,knurling the inside of the bushing so it'll trap oil.
We used to drill the pick-up tits with a .015" bit and insert a piece of .015" piano wire into the pick-up tits,preventing the problem of breaking them off in a crash.Been close to 10 yrs since i had anything to do a G,so i'm working on dusty memory banks Mike,lol
Rick

Mike,looks like the old Canuck board has disappeared,and i never kept any copies of the old pic's.I figured most guys had probably memorized the pics,and mods,as the last time i looked at the old post there'd been almost 11,000 hits to it:wave:If anybody happened to copy the pic's ,you got my permission to post them.Personally i wouldn't ream the G's bushings,as i think it aggravates it's problem of shaking the arm in the chassis,causing the old dreaded bushing shake problem,which causes brush bounce,polish the stock bushings is all we ever used to do,keep the bushing clearance as tight as possible with-out binding when it's hot,keeps the brushes on the com better,another old trick with old stock sintered bushings is to push a stock tyco rear axle through the bushing,knurling the inside of the bushing so it'll trap oil.
We used to drill the pick-up tits with a .015" bit and insert a piece of .015" piano wire into the pick-up tits,preventing the problem of breaking them off in a crash.Been close to 10 yrs since i had anything to do a G,so i'm working on dusty memory banks Mike,lol
Rick


Hello Rick....

Good to see your name up there again.Hope all is well.:wave:

You know,I saved those pics more then once,but that could have been like 3 computers ago.

Im going to dig a bit later.I think our buddy Scott(SLot V) might have the pics on his site.Unfortunately I think the link is on my laptop,and its up stairs,and I just fired up the track to do some hot laps.I'll get to it later tho.

Mike

Well,this isnt the one of the Canuk site,but its still good stuff:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/Racing_Tips/SuperG__Tips/superg__tips.html#endbell


Mike

Morning Mike
Scotts pic's for endbell mods are good.
One thing i used to do,back before you could buy pre-tweaked endbells,was strip an arm down till it was only a com and shaft,(a wheel press makes short work of pushing the com and shaft through the blanks),then you could see how the brushes laid on the com from the open end of the bell,instead of trying to peer through the little slots in the front of the bell,made setting the brushes quite a bit easier for me.
For guys running bone stock G's another trick was to flip the white topped motor magnet upside down.
Don't forget about the old Tyco rear axle trick to free up some horsepower in a stock G,use the smaller diameter Tyco rear axle if you're rules allow it.
Rick