We havent kicked this one around in awhile.

What are you guys diggin' for controllers these days???????For me,my Professor Motor 2050 will get tossed in the box just before they close the lid and put me in the ground for the big sleep.I love that thing,works great for me.

I also like to mess around with some of the old school Parmas I have.I have a BRP 120 ohm that I like for my JL cars.And I also have a few 25 ohm Parmas that I like to use occasionally when I am messing with my SS magnet cars.Tho I think that I might try a 15ohm,as the 25 is nice,but still a little touchy at times.
I have some super fine(1200-2000)grit sand paper I like taking to the resistor wire that makes them feel nice and smooth.

So lets hear what you guys are using.Id like to know if I might be missing out on something

What are you missing? WHAT ARE YOU MISSING???!?!?!!?!?! Oh man.... Lemme tell ya! :)

I am running a Ruddock DR-50 for my G3 G-Jets, Superstocks, and new 901 box stocks, also use a Mednaic M-Magic for that. For my T-Jets and other slower cars I have a nice Dunlap SD-4 controller, and a GoGo controller. I also have a Dunlap that has been converted to a DR-50 as well for another backup. I recently sold off a Trek Lawler controller to Bill Hall, a great controller, but I was tryi9ng to reduce the inventory a little bit.

I have been looking at the Lucky Bob's controllers as I believe they handle all cars. I may have a problem with controllers, but it hasn't been professionally diagnosed as of yet, so until it has, I am good to go. ;)

Just wait until Mike King sees this, he'll chime in as well, and he also has another Dunlap controller I am needing in my pitbox.

Marty

Parma Turbo with a 45 ohm T.Q. resistor for modified T-Jet & G3.

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For the Stupor III, I just use the power supply's on-off switch...

thanx for posing this question.i just recently got a parma 60 . this is my first controller. got it from tom hiesters minicars .im using it on a roadtrack with tjet cars.im not understanding what ohms do higher or lower but im told you can change the resistor for different results.for the past year i had been using the ones that came with the track.they worked and the little cars went around the trackbut there is more experimenting to do.

I have been looking at the Lucky Bob's controllers as I believe they handle all cars. I may have a problem with controllers, but it hasn't been professionally diagnosed as of yet, so until it has, I am good to go. ;)

Just wait until Mike King sees this, he'll chime in as well, and he also has another Dunlap controller I am needing in my pitbox.

Marty

Marty I back tracked a bit after reading your mention of the Lucky Bobs controller.
Not even a pic on his site,tho they have them for sale.What is the deal with these.

Also,wouldnt mind seeing a group shot of the controllers you do have.Ive heard of a few of them,but a few are ones I never heard of.

Mike

thanx for posing this question.i just recently got a parma 60 . this is my first controller. got it from tom hiesters minicars .im using it on a roadtrack with tjet cars.im not understanding what ohms do higher or lower but im told you can change the resistor for different results.for the past year i had been using the ones that came with the track.they worked and the little cars went around the trackbut there is more experimenting to do.

I get a kick out of your nick name.One of the guys that used to come here to race name is Joe Grill.I thought you were him.

Controllers make all of the difference in the world.Im sure one of the guys here could chime in and give you a better explanation then I could.

Mike

Marty I back tracked a bit after reading your mention of the Lucky Bobs controller.
Not even a pic on his site,tho they have them for sale.What is the deal with these.

Also,wouldnt mind seeing a group shot of the controllers you do have.Ive heard of a few of them,but a few are ones I never heard of.

Mike

Hey Mike, here is the page with his controllers, it's about 1/3 way down on his home page

http://www.lucky-bobs-slot-cars.com/LUCKYBOBSHOCONTROLLER.html

Also.....

The DR-40 (DR-50 is an upgrade)
http://www.scaleauto.com/controllers/dr40.htm

Difalco
http://www.difalcoonline.com/

Dunlap
http://www.dunlapmotorplex.com/speedcontroller.html

GoGo
http://www.gohoracing.com/gt_wiperless.html

Medanic M-Magic
http://home.comcast.net/~medanic/M-Magic/Magic-1.htm


As for a group shot of my controllers, i'll have to try and steal the wife's camera for a quick shot. Although I don't want Mike King to see all of my inventory, so maybe that isn't a good idea. ;)

...I have some super fine(1200-2000)grit sand paper I like taking to the resistor wire that makes them feel nice and smooth.

Just because Mike dose that I feel I have to make a reply not to do that.

You don't want to be sanding on a barrel resistor.
The wires are made out of plated copper with steel bands and there's no reason to put any wear on the plating or wires with sandpaper.

When a controller is rough and not smooth.
It's because the copper wiper button gets a flat spot worn on it.
Then there are sharp edges on the leading and trailing edges of the flat spot that catch on the resistor wires.

You can remove the sharp edges by taking a piece of 400 sandpaper and holding it between your fingers in a radius.
Then work the trigger back and forth so the wiper button is going up the radius of the sandpaper taking the sharp edges off and rounding the edges so it travels smooth across the resistor.

http://i36.tinypic.com/1zppsgm.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/14dhmic.jpg

If you got a controller that's rough and neglect the wiper button,
it's just a matter of time before this happens.

http://i38.tinypic.com/ibcdn4.jpg
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[
The DR-40 (DR-50 is an upgrade)
http://www.scaleauto.com/controllers/dr40.htm



I have a Dr40 can he modify the old ones an anyone know what it would cost, My main controller is the Difalco fanatic, I love it!!!!!!

You don't want to be sanding on a barrel resistor.
The wires are made out of plated copper with steel bands and there's no reason to put any wear on the plating or wires with sandpaper.



I wet sanded my resistor down an the action is smooth as glass now, I do it to all wound resistors

I have a Dr40 can he modify the old ones an anyone know what it would cost, My main controller is the Difalco fanatic, I love it!!!!!!

Yes, he can modify the DR-40 to become a DR-50. It costs about $100, maybe a little less, but the difference is well worth it. You go from having 10 bands to having hundreds, plus they go through the controller and clean it all up and give it a good tune as well.

Turnaround usually takes just a couple of weeks.

If you got a controller that's rough and neglect the wiper button,
it's just a matter of time before this happens.

http://i38.tinypic.com/ibcdn4.jpg
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Excellent point.I should not have been as vague in what I had originally said.

I epoxy my resistors first.Meaning that I put a thin coat of epoxy across the top and bottom of the wires on the resistor itself.Careful not to get any where the wiper button makes contact with the wires.

This stabilizes the wires so they can no longer move.

THEN I sand it,wet sand it actually.And I do it with probably about a 1200 or 1500 grit.This is SUPER fine sand paper that I use in almost the last stage of rubbing out a finish on any guitars that I paint in lacquer.

And the button sanding...excellent input as well,it is something I do also and make a big dif.

There was a definite learning curve and a few ruined resistors for me until I got this down.I totally ruined one 25 ohm Parma that I was in love with that I used to use for SS that I still kick myself for.

Mike

As for a group shot of my controllers, i'll have to try and steal the wife's camera for a quick shot. Although I don't want Mike King to see all of my inventory, so maybe that isn't a good idea. ;)

LOL...no need for a group shot.All of those links you posted showed me what I needed to see.Keep your secrets safe from "The Other Mike King".

I probably spent a good hour or so reading through those links last night.Im intrigued by variable brakes and choke functions.Actually,I think there is a blank spot on my PM controller where I could add such things.

You look at those,and the first thing you think is "wow are they a lot of dough".
But when you REALLY look,these guys that make these have really gone to great lengths to assemble and have the boards and parts made to actually be able to make and sell these.

Good stuff Marty.Thanks for the info.

Mike

Wow, I really like this !
Now I know what I want. http://i34.tinypic.com/34dflh2.gif

Dunlap SD-4 "SILVER" Speed Controller. $325 Plus Shipping

http://www.dunlapmotorplex.com/images/sd41205slvr.JPG
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I have a 15-band Difalco with brake and choke, both of which are essential if you want to run ALL classes of cars. My only issue with the Difalco is the physical design is a bit clunky (as are all "dongle" controllers in my book) and the electrical protection circuitry is sadly inadequate. The "secret" power transistor mod is also an annoyance in light of the lack of proper fusing. The standard pots that come on the HO line of controllers are a bit wimpy too, not high grade units. Note: Mine is a few years old so some of the issues I have with it may have been fixed in newer units.

I've tried many other controllers including Lucky Bobs. Bob's controller is quite nice and designed to meet the hardships and mishaps of racing. Excellent electrical protection, good quality parts all the way around. I really like the bump proof switches. Expensive, but all of these things are expensive.

The most innovative controller I've tried, though not available for HO, is the Koford external resistor wire controller. It feels weightless in your hand compared to any other controller, especially the gadgety beasts that are so much in vogue.

I also have a dozen or so Parma controllers in various formats. Some are 40 years old and still work great.

Slot.it SCP-1 has been very smooth and so far very reliable and has pulled my butt out of the fire on more than one occaission.

http://slot.it/immagini/KitPart/electronic/SCP-1e.jpg

I also like the light weight and compact design, as well as it being fully enclosed. I've been wanting to experiment with the telemetry port too but don't know if I need special software.

Dranoel, are you using the Slot.it for HO or just the larger cars?

Yes. ;)

The "secret" power transistor mod is also an annoyance in light of the lack of proper fusing.

AfxToo, could you elaborate on this? I have several Difalcos and have not heard of this modification.
I've been experimenting with a 10 band Fanatic module, trying different transistors to see if I can feel any differences in the power delivery. It's strictly for tjets, so I mounted the transistor on the Parma Turbo frame to keep it light and eliminate the hanging power transistor and heat sink. Another modification I'm playing with is bypassing the 10 Ohm resistor on the sensitivity pot, so that the adjustment is 0 to 25 Ohms. That seems to give a better adjustment range. No smoke yet.

The part number has been buffed off the power transistor case. I know they're not making a killing selling replacements for $11 because power transistors are typically in the $3-$5 range, but I'd like to have more than one source for replacement parts. Putting a fuse or breaker on the brake line would help save the transistor in a misconnect situation and I believe newer models have this mod. When you're paying two or three hundred bucks for a high end controller part of the benefit should be getting a controller that is completely serviceable by end users, and publishing the complete specs on the controller is part of the serviceability equation. There's no trade secrets in any of these things, it's more about getting the right combination of performance, ergonomics, protection, and adaptability into a compelling package. Since price is no object then open up the specs for all serviceable components.

Oh, THAT "secret". Yeah, we smoked a few of those while racing 1/24 cars. I did try a #2N6284 from Digi-Key as a replacement. About $4 each. I think it's close, but not sure. I find it hard to tell a difference between Difalcos replacements for 1/24 and the HO transistors. They're probably the same, but again, who knows?

I've been focusing more on the smaller TO-220 transistors. At about $1 each, I ordered 6 different transistors (Digi-Key again) and set up the controller so they are easy to replace. Just been testing and trying different pot settings to find the one I like with tjets. That's why I said "No smoke yet".

The 2N6284 has reasonable specs for the application. There are a number of NPN power transistors in the TO3 package that could potentially work from a voltage/current rating perspective. The beta on power transistors is typically low but the subtle differences between types could definitely change the response curves, which would alter the behavior from the sensitivity setting. I've seen a few controllers using the TO-220 package power transistors, including Lucky Bobs new controller. These should be every bit as capable and durable for this application.