Hello Everyone-

I'm in the final stages of the Voyager kit- which I'm thrilled Moebius repopped, by the way. Since most of what I build doesn't reqiure smooth glossy paint jobs, I could use some suggestions. I've primed and sprayed the model with a few coats of testor's gloss white, but I'm not getting a smooth final coat. It's got a pebbled texture, except on the two intake vents, which are probably getting sprayed the most. Must I sand between coats? (I prospect I don't look forward to) Am I just spraying wrong or using an inferior paint? (It has been humid out, but I'm spraying in the garage)

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Anthony :)- Sand down the coat you have on it now, to a smooth finish. Then take your can of spray paint and soak it in hot water. While you are waiting, wipe the surface down with some alcohol (rubbing, not drinking) to make sure there isn't any oil from your fingers. Once the paint can is warmed up, you can spray it on. The spray will be a lot thinner because of the warmer temperature and should go on very smooth. Cover the model with a box or something while it dries to keep the dust off. Good luck, let us know what happens.

Aurorafan's name's chris too? Cool!!
I did mine like I'd do a model car.Mine's been done with Duplicolor Peak White auto spray. I prepped the surface starting at #400 W&D, then finished with #800. I primed with Duplicolor primer, then guidecoated. I sanded every bit of guidecoat off with#800, then sprayed with the topcoat and colour sanded with #1500. Once the final coat was on, I sanded with #2000 and polished with auto polish. Dead straight, no seams, and a mirror finish, just like a surgical tool should be.
Since you've used enamel, F-91's technique is the best one. :thumbsup:

Chris.:)

Good info guys, thanks.

My name's Anthony, though. not Chris

Nut-fan, Chris, Tony, it's all good. The info is still the same....

:p True...

Chris.:)

This is why I prefer military models. It's okay if the finish looks like crap. :lol:

Here's a question for the vehicle model experts.

How do you spray the model without messing up the clear parts? That may sound basic, but I'm perplexed. I assume that most folks would build the entire model with the interior painted and finished - and then "close it up" by installing the dome and windshield.

I can see that taping the dome with Tamiya masking tape would be easy - but what about the curved edges of the windshield where it meets the hull? That looks like a b**ch to tape.

Huzz

I did lay tape over it and cut carefully with a sharp exacto (I used scotch tape, nothing fancy) I made sure to burnish the edges well. It came out clean, much to my surprise. I always dread the one or two spots that bleed through. Ditto with the dome but there were a few tiny spots on the surrounding hull that didn't get paint, luckily not the clear dome.

While I was still building the kit, I put a little wipe of Auto putty around the aperture. After it skinned off, I pressed the screen into it. That gave me a tight fit. Once it was ready for primer, I masked the opening with tissue papar and Maskol. After everything was done, I glued the clear parts in with Clearfix. There's an edge, but nothing's rough. If I was to do another one, I'd probably glue the glass in before sanding and fair the glass into the fuselage. I could then mask the screen and dome and paint it all as a unit. Perfect fit!! That's how I did the Revell 1/48 Heinkel 111 .
Aurorafan, the best way I've found to avoid bleeding under the tape is to seal the edge with clear before you topcoat. That way, the bleeding (if any) is clear. you end up with a nice razor sharp line.

Chris.:)

Too late for me to try now, but an excellent idea. With all the humidity in my area lately, I'm leaving 48hrs of dry time between coats. Working on Nosferatu while I wait.

I'm just going to spray mine flat white--much easier to sand. But then I'm going for more of a real world look.

If you sand gloss white paint, make sure it's a WET fine grit sanding sponge for best results.