Ok... say I used superglue on the chariot's clear canopy, and got a little of that white crazing on it.

What the best way to remove that? Will a superglue remover eat the plastic, or can you just put some future floor wax over it, and it'll vanish?

I didn't realize how much had actually gotten on what I was working on, and of course, didn't see it till after the fact. :(

If you coat the clear parts first with Future Floor Polish, it'll protect the plastic and you'll never get fogging in the first place.

Not sure how to remove the fogging once it's there, though.

Sometimes it can be removed with polishing compound if you can get to it. Just make sure you can get the compound out of the seam. It can usually be scrubbed out with water on a cotton bud.
I don't know if Future can be used to hide it, but I can't see it hurting.
John Ps technique sounds like the way to go next time though.

Chris.:)

yep, hindsight is 20/20.. ;)

Fortunately, the issue isn't on my chariot, but some ghostbuster's goggles I was making for halloween. I thought the lenses were all glass, but they actually have a plastic lens as well as the darkened black one.

I could probably remove the plastic lenses, and use just the black glass, but Im not sure what glue will stick plasic to glass reliably,. They aren't under any real stress, but I want them to be at least a little durable.

Here's a pic of the finished goggles...

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb2/Gareee_photos/Misc/GBGoggles.jpg

2Part epoxy should do the job mate.:thumbsup: Quick and easy.

Chris.:)

Super glue fumes...eyeballs? Not a good mix. Off the top of my head I forget the chemical gas, but the irritating fumes that burn your eyes and nose from CA glues are still emitted for a good while, even after you can't smell them. Now, compound that with the fumes getting traped inside those gogles? You may want to rethink your costume. Or at minimum cut vent holes.

Im not sure what glue will stick plasic to glass reliably,. They aren't under any real stress, but I want them to be at least a little durable.

use the sort of silicone sealant used to assemble aquariums not only sticks to glass, but darned near everything else too. and its very very strong. i think thats the solution to adding glass lenses to your goggles.

Super glue fumes...eyeballs? Not a good mix. Off the top of my head I forget the chemical gas, but the irritating fumes that burn your eyes and nose from CA glues are still emitted for a good while, even after you can't smell them. Now, compound that with the fumes getting traped inside those gogles? You may want to rethink your costume. Or at minimum cut vent holes.

There's actually just a drop holding one of those plastic mirror back 1/8" "gems" on the front of the lenses, to simulate a light there. (And it's on the front, not inside.)

Plus welder's goggles do have vents.. that's what all the black rounded things are. (Two have "dials" added to them.)


Aquarium silicon probabl would be good, but a cheaper alternative is goop or shoe goo. (Basically they set up to solid rubber.) Downside is both stink to holy hell, and setup overnight, rather then just a quick drying time.

I have used the Model Master cement made espcailly for clear parts for the best results.
I have used polishing compound and future floor polish to get rid of CA hazing.
Lynn

Cool... future might help then!

i was told to use Elmers glue mixed with water to make it clear, no fogging on my plane canapies.

i was told to use Elmers glue mixed with water to make it clear, no fogging on my plane canapies.Undiluted Elmers white glue dries pretty clear if you use a small bead of it. This, of course, is not a problem if you can apply it so that it won't show.