Okay, I'm Finally painting my movie observation nose for my Seaview. The banguette seats, the conference room chairs, and the comfy seats in front of the windoiws are all Irwin Orange. Floquil CN orange is a really good color match, I think.
What has happened to acrylic paints???
It's been years since I bought new paints - most of my 15 year old Tamiyas are still fine for use - but my best color matches in fresh Polly S and Gunze are utter crap. The paints out of bottle are so thin that it's impossible to hand brush them, even pouring off the top 9/10s and just using what should have been the sludge at the bottom. The paints are actually thinner out of bottle than anything I normally airbrush with, and airbrushing isn't an option for these teeny bits, as they're incredibly fragile and already glued to the floor for safe keeping. I can see why Testors would want to sink the Polly S line as they are competing with their own other lines but Gunze too - this is just sad.
The base coats are all old Tamiya acrylics so enamels are out. Can anyone recommend an Irwin Orange acrylic that can actually be brush painted?

You sure about the conference/dining table and chairs being orange ? They look black in this picture:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd222/idMonster/Voyage%20To%20The%20Bottom%20Of%20The%20Sea/TV%20Seaview/Interior/PDVD_117.jpg

In the movie they're orange - I'm doing the 2 level ON with the 2nd season TV style windows. Honest, it'll look fine. Edit: in fact, it'd be finished now if I could find some paintable paint. Sigh.

Can anyone recommend an Irwin Orange acrylic that can actually be brush painted?

I use Tamiya paints and some Testors ... but every "orange" I've ever used needed to be airbrushed over a light grey or flat white primer ... the same with red and yellow .... These colors are fine for brushing in very small areas, but NOT on large areas.

Dan

I'm using craft acrylics for my models. The Pumpkin Orange (I don't recall the manufacturer off hand) looks good, but you MUST prime first!

Larry

I sliced a zillion bits of paper towel really really thin and layered them between the 1/128 chair legs and managed to mask everything off for air brushing.
These paints are too thin to air brush!
I spilled the Polly S yesterday. The paint than spilled and then dripped all over the label today has dried overnight and made the label look like it is black printing on an orange background, rather than its original white background parts. No matter how thickly I layer it onto the newspaper under the parts or how many coats, the words are clearly visible. No where on the bottles does it say anything about these being orange clear coats.
Absolute worst modeling paints I've ever used, these "new" Gunze and Polly S.
Edit: Found an ancient bottle of Testors Model Master Acryl in my stores (not the very first run, which couldn't be cleaned with water or any other substance known to science, but an Old Bottle nonetheless). Not quite the color I wanted but at this point I don't care anymore. It airbrushes beautifully still.
I build about 200 1/48 aircraft and a scattering of other subjects through the '80s. Never have I see such awful paints as the two I bought yesterday. Don't the manufacturers care anymore?

Paints dont usually make mistakes,its modellers.

I think if I were you I'd switch to enamels. Just my 2 cents.

...I'd switch to enamels...
Yeah, check out your local Walmart or Pep Boys for some automotive-quality paint.

Here's an idea. Paint them with orange enamel, allow a few days for the paint to cure, then paint them with tranparent (or fluorescent if you can get it) orange acrylic over the enamel. Do a test on some scrap but that might make them really pop !

Trekriffic: by coincidence, exactly what I'm doing.
As for paints vs modelers, as I say, 200 1/48 aircraft that worked just fine. Straight out of the bottle, these two are too thin to brush, using either bristle, and way too thin to airbrush. First time this has ever happened to me. Old/spoiled stock?? Wonder what Tamiyas are like now. Their oranges and yellows went on over white in a single coat and their flat white was my all time favorite white.

I used Solar Macarius Orange from the Games Workshop foundation range for the orange on my pod and I plan to use it on my Chariot as well. It has a good flow from a brush but I have yet to trial it from an airbrush.

Just a FYI Orange's ,Red's ,Yellow's and some bright Green's don't cover well..It doesn't matter if it is house paint or auto paint or model paint..in order to get the color's bright the contents in that paint to make those paints opaque are minimal such as T1O2 titanium dioxide.. Lead used to be used back in the day to keep colors bright n shiny and durable,but those days are gone..Jeff

Just a FYI Orange's ,Red's ,Yellow's and some bright Green's don't cover well..It doesn't matter if it is house paint or auto paint or model paint..in order to get the color's bright the contents in that paint to make those paints opaque are minimal such as T1O2 titanium dioxide.. Lead used to be used back in the day to keep colors bright n shiny and durable,but those days are gone..Jeff

Good point... I never thought about the opacity of orange I used as I had primed my entire model with a grey metal primer out of habit. :o

I actually tell my customers when they choose such colours for thier feature walls and jobs at home that a grey undercoat is a good start to getting the final colour they want.

Just a FYI Orange's ,Red's ,Yellow's and some bright Green's don't cover well..It doesn't matter if it is house paint or auto paint or model paint..in order to get the color's bright the contents in that paint to make those paints opaque are minimal such as T1O2 titanium dioxide.. Lead used to be used back in the day to keep colors bright n shiny and durable,but those days are gone..Jeff

Well, that answers a lot of questions.

I was wondering what the &^#^## was wrong with the yellow paints I was trying to use on my Flying subs..No matter which I used, I couldn't get good coverage. with out multiple, multiple coats.

thanks for the info

As I said, I've still got good stockpile of old paints that seem to have survived pretty well. Maybe 100 of the old large Tamiya bottles included. I don't know if they've changed their formula, but I always used to use flat white as a base coat when I was doing yellows, reds, oranges. I always used the Tamiya flat colors and they always covered in a single coat or at most two. Tamiya gloss yellows, whites, etc. never worked well for me. Too translucent. But the flats were beautiful and went down like a dream. Then a Tamiya clear gloss coat if I wanted to decal. I've had to use some of the new small bottle flat whites in recent years and they seemed the same, except for half the size at nearly the same price. Sigh.

Screengrabs I screengrabbed off the screen, of the nose interior from the movie:
http://www.inpayne.com/seaview/seaviewpics.html

I like orange. :)

"Oranges! Oranges!
Nothing rhymes with oranges!"

---Witchiepoo.

If you have White Primer you may want to mix as much of the final color into it as you can you will get the depth of color you want in less coats..With my customers I usually tint the primer to the finish color ....Jeff

"Oranges! Oranges!
Nothing rhymes with oranges!"
Still planning to paint your chariot blood red?

^That's what was recommended to me. I'll take any evidence to the contrary, of course.

Wonderful screen grabs! Cement and paint must be killing my brain cells. Rather than making screen grabs myself, I keep running to the TV and drawing details. At least I remembered to pause the movie. Sigh. Not five minutes ago I attached the toaster to the control unit. Next up the TV and then the coffee pot and the nose interior will be finished!!! And then I'll compare it to prints of these photos and see if I'm close.

Don't forget the ashtrays :)
Mcdee

Is "International Orange" available in a spray can as well as paint bottle? If so, where can you order it? It seems to be difficult to find in the hobby stores of my area.