I've taken my Toro push mower to the local mower shop because I didn't have time to fool with it right away. I decarbonized the piston and valve head and put a new head gasket, air filter, and plug in because it wouldn't start this week. The last time I mowed the yard with it worked fine. It only sat up for 2-3 weeks. When you pulled the pull cord it was make the clicking noise as if you're starter solenoid was clicking on your car. I thought something was broken, a valve maybe. But everything inside moved regularly when I turned the flywheel. So once I did all that work, it would attempt to start but still you could hear the clicking of, what I'm assuming is the valves. But until I sprayed carb cleaner through the carb it wouldn't start up at all. When it did start it would only run for 10 or 15 seconds and die. Each time I sprayed carb cleaner in it would immediately start up for 10 or 15 more seconds and die. While it was running the valves were ticking. The mower shop said he doesn't really know what's wrong with it and it wouldn't be worth his time fixing. The mower is only a year and a half old. There was some old gas mixed in the tank from my project car that had been sitting for 4 years but it ran fine the last time I mowed. I drained it out cleaned the tank and put in new gas and still nothing. I don't know if a valve is bent, broken, or the camshaft is broken, or needle valve is gummed up. But it will run for that 10 or 15 seconds when carb cleaner is sprayed into the combustion chamber. I've rebuilt a pair of automotive engines and I'm a minor automotive mechanic on the side. Is it possible to find out what's wrong and repair this economically at home without having to buy a ton of specialty small engine tools? Anyone got a downloadable PDF of the Tecumseh repair book? Thanks.

The problem with the running is in your carburetor. The ticking sound, I have no idea, but I doubt it's your valves, if it is the valves then it's probably made the noise all along.

Take the bowl nut off your carburetor and make sure the orifices in it are clear and open. Check the float bowl for build up, moisture and dirt and clean if needed. There are 2 O-Ring seal around the nozzle that may need replacing, but to start with just check the bowl and bowl nut.

Good Luck...

burnt exhaust valve

I figured the carb got gummed up by the old gas. It was pretty old between 4-7 years old. I didn't know it got put in, since we have two gas containers. It was from my collector car when I replaced the gas tank and I didn't want to dump out the old fuel. So I'll check the carb and I know the valve is burnt or bent, there's no doubt that the valves were ticking. You can't mistake that sign, it probably was doing it all the time and this just finished on up. I'll put a pair of valves and new springs. The parts aren't that much, probably just do a carb kit just to be safe. Is there any specific tools to remove the valves on this engine.

There are special tools available, but it can be done with automotive type tools as well.

The problem with the running is in your carburetor. The ticking sound, I have no idea, but I doubt it's your valves, if it is the valves then it's probably made the noise all along

for some odd reason, whenever I hear a tecumseh run, I swear I hear a ticking sound as well, I think it is just the design of the muffler

pyro
I hear the same ticking and think, well there is another Tec about to send the rod through the side of the block, so I guess I'm not the only one hearing sounds. Have a good one. Geo

good, that means the only crazy one is 30year :D

good, that means the only crazy one is 30year :D
:drunk:Crazy:drunk:
Valves on L Head engines don't get excess valve lash from use, the clearances get smaller. If the lash is excessive and causing the ticking, it had to be doing that all along.

If its a Tecumseh engine I world more suspect the ticking sound to be a loose connecting rod. Could also be a loose blade underneath, did you check that yet?

Does the "ticking" change with engine speed.
Dean

I had a tecumseh 6HP that woul keep dying unless I kept priming it. after about 10 min it would stay running, but keep reving high and low. Rebuilt the carb, but this did not help. Manually played with the governor and was able to keep it running, but heard a ticking noise. Took the engine apart to find the the governor inside the engine has 2 weights attached that fly open more as the engine revs up thus adjusting the governor to reduce the engine. This is what keeps the engine running smooth. However, 1 of the weights was broken off. The lose weight was my ticking noise. The hi and low reving engine problem was casued by the imbalance of the governor weight - not the carb (I thought the carb was bad at first too - and is why I rebuilt it). Come to find out the the weighted govenor gear inside the engine that is broke is appears to be embedded in the block cover. In other words - I need a new block cover and not just a weight plastic gear (bad tecumseh for designing it this way). Anyway - kust thought I would tell you all what I found since my issue is similar to what I am reading here