Has anyone used Frisket Film to Paint the Chariot Window Frames????
I see lots of people are having a hard time or using some templates, but Frisket Film seems like a good choice.
I bought some to mask my Seaview Flying Sub for the blue, If that works I'll do my Chariot next.

Frisket should work fine ... the only drawback is that it doesn't conform to compound curves without alot of persuasion and a few choice words :freak:

Another liquid latex fix, then? Or would it craze the clear parts? Masking fluid and a good sharp #11 blade seems like a good solution.

I love it when people use their heads! Frisket film! I wouldn't have thought of that in a million years because it's been just about that long sense I've used it.

There are two types of frisket film if I remeber right. One is almost like a wax paper with an adhesive back. I forget the brand. Then there's one Badger made/makes that has more of a flexible vinyl feel to it. The later should work well with the cheriot, it's clear and you can see what you're doing. But if memory serves, the Badger sticks very, very well. So you'd have ot be careful.

What brand did you use?

"Looked bigger when I couldn't see'em" - Jayne Cobb

I wouldn't use Frisket myself (it sticks better to paper than plastic) but Bare Metal Foil is great. You can burnish it down around the edges of the frames, cut it easily, and paint won't creep under it. IF there is any glue residue, it can be removed easily enough off the clear plastic when you are done.

Liquid mask will work. Personally I would mask the edges of the panels with Tamiya Tape or Bare Metal Foil then fill in the larger areas with liquid mask. On bare plastic its hard to get an even coat or sharp edge sometimes. It tends to bead up on the smooth plastic and draw away from raised details (like the frames).

If you do use liquid mask, I really like Humbrol Maskall. At least as far as liquid masks go, its good. Gunze Neo Type is also good. I have had reasonable luck also with the Parma stuff sold for RC Car bodies. Micro Mask is a waste of time.

"Liquid Masking Film" by Bob Dively also works very well.

"Liquid Masking Film" by Bob Dively also works very well.I have some of that. I bought a 32oz bottle. What's the trick?? It seems like a good product, but when I tried to use it on the PL mummy's sarcophagus, I had major trouble removing the masking. Do I need to coat it several times, first? It's okay, you can call me dumb.

If you're using LMF on a painted surface the stuff is a bugger to get off! :freak:

I've been using LMF for 30 years and I still haven't found a "system" of using it to mask for a second color or on rough surfaces ... and re-read Paragragh 9 of the instructions on the bottle ... It may help :dude:

You do need to put most liquid masks on pretty thick and/or in two or three coats.

I did a French tank with three camoufalge colors and used the Humbrol stuff. I just made the layers thick. It is still hard to remove and you should work as quickly as possible to remove the mask as soon as you can handle the model.

When I painted the orange panels on my space pod, I masked off areas with a nice "gentle release" masking tape I got at Wal-Mart. It's in their tape section in hardware, and it's colored PURPLE. It stuck on the already painted areas well, and didn't pull up one bit of paint when removed. I plan on using it to mask off the panels on my Chariot, and I'll then be painting them by hand. ( I really don't want to use spray, just in case it mists, and ends up in unwanted places. I don't want to have to strip the whole thing and start from scratch. )

Just letting everyone know that it worked well for me, anyway.

Best of luck, and good luck on your kits!

Sincerely,
Scorp.

"Boldly GO!" :wave: :woohoo: