a few ive did
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-859F.jpg Original is in the back that i modeled

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-887F.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-885F.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-891F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-886F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-883F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-893F.jpg this one i did but no pics of the resin yet

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-892F.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/MVC-830F.jpgHave a truck painted but no pics either

Love the slammo pop top.

WooHoo, more casters!!! I'm in the learning stages or wanna b stages myself. Can you tell me what brand of clear resin mix you used. I tried some from Hobby Lobby, from the craft section. I mixed up a pour, it's been 3 days, and it's still tacky. Help!!! Please!!! RM

the clean is castin'craft brand, i got it at Micheal's arts an crafts, its VERY brittle when hard so they are good for show an thats all

the clean is castin'craft brand, i got it at Micheal's arts an crafts, its VERY brittle when hard so they are good for show an thats all

Castin'craft clear body looks great. Have some but, have not used it yet. Sounds like if will be fun stuff to use. Thank you for showing these pics and they look great. hojohn should be showing up soon with his stuff I bet.

Don't let Hilltop fool yah GoodwrenchIntim as he is no rookie at anything. A Wolfe in sheeps cloth I'd say. Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahah

Hilltop can do some stuff...great guy also. :)

Here are some Porsches I have done up. They were Auctioned off at the last HOHT Auction so, they are gone now...bye, bye cool little slot cars...bye, bye.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aabit2.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aabit3.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aabit4.jpg

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g282/bobhch/aabit5.jpg

Great thread idea!! Will post some more pics up soon.

Maisto has an El-cheapo diecast line of cars at Wallgreens and I picked up a few tonight as they have great possibilities for casting. One of them was an Armored truck, another was a Porsche 356A and yet another was the newer VW Bug.

Bob...need more hours in the day...zilla

ok the 57
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_0775.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_0776.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v65/GoodwrenchIntimidator3/100_0777.jpg

Here's a resin Porsche from Ol' Baaahaaahaaahob...I like to cast...zilla himself, even sent me the RCA stickers, what a guy!!! Sprayed on a little color, a little detail work, added windshield from some scrap plastic, added a roll bar made from styrene tubing. AFX wheels on a T-Jet chassis...RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/001-2.jpg

HEY, what kind of car is that on the rack??!!! Is that cast too?

Rich

Rich, that's one I've been trying to cast.

How are you guys getting all the air bubbles out of your molds??, I seem to get some no matter what i try

BTW picked up a 62 custom chevy pickup,super tuner truck( not sure what make)Honda civic SI,Astro Martin, Ferrari FXX an a Ferrair Enzo Hot Wheels that are gonna be the next to get molded

This is a Hot Wheels copy the boys have been working on...RM

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/001-3.jpg

Nice cars hilltop !:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

"How are you guys getting all the air bubbles out of your molds??, I seem to get some no matter what i try"

I use a couple of methods to kill off the air-bubbles. First, when you pour your resin in the mold, pour a thin line as you can from a greater height. This will force the air to the edges as the mold fills. Second, I place the filled molds in a paint pressure pot and crank in about 20-30 PSI depending on how thick the mold walls are. I tried vacuum pressure but that always distorted the mold.
Pressure pots are a bit pricey. The one I purchased was used from a paint store that was closing up, and I still paid $75. It will hold a 5 gallon bucket, so it is pretty large, probably bigger than I need, but it looks good in the mold shop! I started off with a pressure cooker pot with two holes drilled out on the lid. One for a pressure gauge the other for a tire valve. It worked well, but I could only do one mold at a time.

Hope this helps,
-Paul

TY Pshoe, I thought it had to do with a preasure pot, im trying a makeshit one out of an old steamcleaner preasure can, has a manual pump that im gonna replace with a airvalve. Do you use the preasure tank when you pour resin as well???

How are you guys getting all the air bubbles out of your molds??, I seem to get some no matter what i try



Dust a lite coat of baby powder (talcum) into your mold, if its a 2-piece mold be sure to close it up and shake it to cover all parts, then empty out the excess and tap it a few times lightly. The powder leeches the resin right onto the inside surface of the mold which means any air bubbles will be suspended inside the resin, not on the surface of your bodies.


Hellonwheels gave me this tip for phase II of this method a few years back and I swear by it. Just havent cast anything in about 2 years though. You might want to practice on some really gnarly miscasts to get the technique down, but its real easy. You'll need to get a set of micro drills from Harbor frieght (about $5 or $6) and if you are any kind of slotter at all, you should already have a dremel type rotary tool and a set of exactos.

Once your body has fully cured, hold it up to a light so you can see the bubbles in the resin, and drill a hole into the bubble from the INSIDE of the body, which leaves a little crater. fill the crater with baking soda and use an exacto to level it off. Then drop a good bead of super glue--NOT the gel, get the liquid stuff--which will soak into the baking soda and form a rock hard plug in the bubble. You cant scrimp on the glue, you want it to soak into the baking soda all the way thru. If its a real big bubble, maybe only fill it 1/2 or 1/3 with baking soda and do it in layers to ensure it hardens completely. You dont want any powdered baking soda at the bottom of the crater, leaving a thin weak spot under your awesome paint job. Quickly take a paper towel, napkin, or Q-tip and soak up any excess super glue from inside your body. From the outside of the finished body, youd never know the bubbles were there.

I am trying that babypowder trick, TY
What is your guys favorite latex???? 10 to 1 high tear strength or the 4 hours?? Im not to fond of the 4 hour i just gotIt seems to tear to easy, gonna have to order some more 24 hour HTS, molds last longer

TY Pshoe, I thought it had to do with a preasure pot, im trying a makeshit one out of an old steamcleaner preasure can, has a manual pump that im gonna replace with a airvalve. Do you use the preasure tank when you pour resin as well???

I use the pressure pot on both the silicon, before pouring the mold itself and with the resin casting the bodies. I've had a lot of good luck with the OooMoo 25 and 30. The 25 wears a bit faster and I only get around 40-50 bodies from the mold if I'm gentle taking the bodies out. The 30 lasts about 15-20 more casts, once again, if I'm gentle de-molding. The 25 capture very fine detail, like grill patterns and rivets better than the 30. I also use a silica spray as a mold release. It spays into the mold and dries leaving a glossy appearance. It washes off the cast easily. I think the name is PF Polyfilm? I'll have to check that when I get home and post the name.

-Paul

Some sweet looking resins...:thumbsup:

A VW poptop..Cool
Hilltop,
The coupe is going to be cool. Nice job to the boys of the shop..:dude:
I could see that one slammed and skirted...:woohoo:

My best luck so far is with the micromark TEN-TO-ONE / HIGH TEAR STRENGTH MOLD RUBBER here (http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82663)
I got some Alumilite 4 hour quick set silicone mold making rubber from hobby lobby yesterday an its junk,After 2 molds it ripped. Ill stick with my micromark for now . where do you get the oomoo??

Kevin

try this one:

http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=50_759&products_id=722&osCsid=85ed265185603038afefa36f435460b6

Everything you need is in the kit, and you get enough for several 2 part molds. RM

Here's a resin Magnum sitting on an AFX MT chassis as some vintage stocker in BS livery. :)

rr

My best luck so far is with the micromark TEN-TO-ONE / HIGH TEAR STRENGTH MOLD RUBBER here (http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82663)
I got some Alumilite 4 hour quick set silicone mold making rubber from hobby lobby yesterday an its junk,After 2 molds it ripped. Ill stick with my micromark for now . where do you get the oomoo??

Kevin

Ive had real good luck with alumilite. It doesnt have the best tear strength but Ive not ruined one yet. The OOMOO from smoothon doesnt seem to be too well suited to 2 part slotcar molds. Tears WAY easy.

I tried casting this Jag body that I modified a little, added a front and rear spoiler...The gray one on the rack is the original...RM


http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/kwikdeals/003-1.jpg

The micromark 10 to 1 is great stuff, its VERY hard to tear a mold

Hilltop , you sellin any copies of the jag ?

Nice work Randy.. the Jag is sweet....

Randy is getting some skills! :thumbsup:
Way cool looking body, buddy! :)

Just for the heck of it i figure i would toss in a few of the Road Rage stuff i made . I got a few new things done a few weeks ago i'll pop in here later.

Dennis :wave: